Rear sway bar comparison
12-24-2011, 07:51 PM
#102
just to clarify... ive you install the harness bar wrong you will pull the b pillar out of alignment and the door wont latch right... if that tells you the terms of rigidty it give the car.
i got it all... powells a good friend of mine. the subframe rails fit like a glove and are awesome. jacking point was a big thing for me.
i got it all... powells a good friend of mine. the subframe rails fit like a glove and are awesome. jacking point was a big thing for me.
...but i realized it was just the ice covering the roof hahaHells yeah, runs what's good!
Last edited by RooTBeeR; 12-24-2011 at 08:06 PM.
i only have the rears but there awesome and adjustable
12-25-2011, 01:04 AM
#112
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Oh, your subframe bars run down the length of the car, Here is what I had on my cavalier.
Had everything you can think of, front rear upper and lower strut/tie bars, tokico Dspec struts, eibach prokit springs, everything but sway bars and racing rims/tires.
Had everything you can think of, front rear upper and lower strut/tie bars, tokico Dspec struts, eibach prokit springs, everything but sway bars and racing rims/tires.
12-25-2011, 01:54 AM
#113
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in the cobalt i cant see that doing much.... epsecially something like that in the front. with a complete hydroformed cradle i doubt its going to do anything. its rigid as is.
12-25-2011, 09:56 AM
#115
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Plus, it makes a GREAT platform for triangulating the rear strut towers.
12-25-2011, 10:14 AM
#116
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which i never believe those did a whole lot anyways lol... yeah might just be the but dyno... attaching it to the floor is what makes me not believe it but on the other hand i think it would be more effective being attached to the frame underneath. looks like a nice piece though ill give it that.
12-25-2011, 10:16 AM
#117
which i never believe those did a whole lot anyways lol... yeah might just be the but dyno... attaching it to the floor is what makes me not believe it but on the other hand i think it would be more effective being attached to the frame underneath. looks like a nice piece though ill give it that.
12-25-2011, 08:52 PM
#119
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which i never believe those did a whole lot anyways lol... yeah might just be the but dyno... attaching it to the floor is what makes me not believe it but on the other hand i think it would be more effective being attached to the frame underneath. looks like a nice piece though ill give it that.
After I installed it, I felt more like the rear end went around a turn in a even and flat pattern. Like you knew the car wasnt going to come out from underneath you.
12-25-2011, 09:09 PM
#120
this is way off topic but pretty much after the twisting beam mounting points which are in front of the rear wheels, there is not a whole lot to be gained with bracing,structuraly.
If you tied the cavvy rear chapman struts across, or the cobalt shock area with a tube welded in through the structure you might gain something. Like this:
to this:
and pretty much any tie bar with two bolts on a blade attachment is weak as heck. Good for keeping the jack tools in place on a cavvy maybe
If you tied the cavvy rear chapman struts across, or the cobalt shock area with a tube welded in through the structure you might gain something. Like this:
to this:
and pretty much any tie bar with two bolts on a blade attachment is weak as heck. Good for keeping the jack tools in place on a cavvy maybe
12-25-2011, 11:02 PM
#121
hell then i might need something just to stop my stupid car from flexing. me passenger door doesnt seal all the way anymore and i can hear the wind through it pretty well. almost 7 years old and 176kmiles with some offroading have beaten the **** outta my balt. if i go down the road at 70 or more the wind will buffet enough that the passenger door shakes to **** and damn near sounds like its going to fall off. i have to roll the window down or roll mine up.
Last edited by Kahless; 12-25-2011 at 11:10 PM.
01-14-2012, 05:28 PM
#124
Senior Member
Thanks! I doubt my car will ever see a track but I want to give the suspension a little tweaking. The obvious choice then seems to be the streetbar, but everybody I've heard from so far has said that the hardcore bar is fine for the roads. Anyone else have any input? 
01-14-2012, 05:49 PM
#125
I would not hesitate to run our 1.25 hardcore for general driving and spirited occasional use. Especially with a TC which has a marginally thicker (.5 mm) front bar... and a lot more torque than any other Cobalt
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 01-14-2012 at 06:46 PM.