Rotors do crack
I'm well aware that performance ceramic rotors are completely different, that isnt what we are talking about. High carbon alloy rotors that are drilled for track use have been around for decades, brembo and wilwood have been selling kits for years specifically designed for that purpose.
Only ones I know of are ZZP's and SSBC 2 piston 12.2" kit. Why does it have to be exclusively for the cobalt? The ones I posted are for a mustang, doesnt change the fact that they are what they are.
Its a cobalt forum, and a discussion about cobalt brakes. zzps crack, wangspeed broke them
I found some nice Carbon Ceramic brakes for the Mustang. 5,900 for just the Front.
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As for track abuse, I hit 130s and up to 140 at my local track on the straights. With upgraded power the most you can do to upgrade your brake system is pads and brake fluid. I run Prospeed 683 brake fluid and Hawk DTC-70 race pads at the track, with stock rotors. Rotors are cheaper to replace than pads; A set of front DTC-70's run 260 bucks. Like Spawne32 said, pay to play, count on spending a lot of money on brakes and tires if you seriously track any car.
And also: Hawk HPS are a serious downgrade from the stock Ferrodo pads. I have no experience with EBC pads.
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You need to get an EGT Adrian, to make sure you don't have high EGTs causing higher coolant temps and to protect watch your engine at the track. Although it might be worth having Trent install it (have to drop the turbo and drill the mani if you want a really good idea of the temp or we could just drop the elbow and drill that to get an idea of the temp changes) I'm sure Term would like to have this data also.
We can also do some air damn like John said off the control arm to try to help direct additional air that direction as long as your not tracking your car in the rain
We can also do some air damn like John said off the control arm to try to help direct additional air that direction as long as your not tracking your car in the rain
It doesnt surprise me that ZZP's crack, there is a post on here about their rotors not fitting their kit, they have MADE IN CHINA stamped right on them. However high performance rotors are definitely available for the cobalt. Rockauto sells no less then a dozen high performance rotors for the brembo equipped cars and even more for LSJ brakes. Stoptech/Centric and Powerstop all listed. DBA sells high performance rotors for the LSJ brakes as well. You go with cheap rotors, they are going to crack, regardless of being blanks, drilled, slotted, or drilled and slotted, and every rotor has its limits, how high those limits are depends on the rotor and the quality. To isolate drilled rotors as being terrible for everything is foolish, because they are just as high performance as slotted, and serve their own function.
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It doesnt surprise me that ZZP's crack, there is a post on here about their rotors not fitting their kit, they have MADE IN CHINA stamped right on them. However high performance rotors are definitely available for the cobalt. Rockauto sells no less then a dozen high performance rotors for the brembo equipped cars and even more for LSJ brakes. Stoptech/Centric and Powerstop all listed. DBA sells high performance rotors for the LSJ brakes as well. You go with cheap rotors, they are going to crack, regardless of being blanks, drilled, slotted, or drilled and slotted, and every rotor has its limits, how high those limits are depends on the rotor and the quality. To isolate drilled rotors as being terrible for everything is foolish, because they are just as high performance as slotted, and serve their own function.
Who would give there money to a company who doesn't answer the phones. On a side note i'm glad to see everyone got off powells dick
This is the only forum Ive ever seen people ride ZZP so hard, most of the stuff I have purchased from them was because I was forced to because they are typically the only supplier of certain eco parts. I dont know a single person that has had a good experience with them, and most of the GM guys I know personally hate them.
This is the only forum Ive ever seen people ride ZZP so hard, most of the stuff I have purchased from them was because I was forced to because they are typically the only supplier of certain eco parts. I dont know a single person that has had a good experience with them, and most of the GM guys I know personally hate them.
Stock pads and rotors on mine are completely fine. Seen multiple pulls and track time and heavy abuse. After 35k miles of the original ones I said eff it why not put the original ones back on. Work amazing. IMHO.
Not sure where all the lack of respect in this thread comes from. Gets tiresome.
Spawne32 to validate my point of view, I have spent most of my life at the race track. I have done extensive brake development work for GM particularly on Corvette over a twenty year period. I have seen many broken and cracked drilled rotors and unhappy customers . I have seen broken and cracked blank and slotted rotors but way less. Hardly any. Heat checked? for sure. Especially when folks over brake their cars on the track.
So. That out of the way, what will work? The first thing is, as I have done the track to street and racing carryover to street more than most folks here are some things that are best for braking in racing, that are not always going to work on the street.
brake cooling ducts. hoses get ripped off and replaced . In a 24 hour race complete brake hub caliper cooling assemblies are replaced in a pit stop these days. Not practical for the street. Brake ducsts are bad for winter snow build up and trash etc. Decent red silicone 3 inch brake duct hose is 12 bux a foot.
Floating rotors. I love them. the Coleman rotors I use are brilliant. Very good material and well machined in Menommee, Michigan . The hardware I have used , like the PFC bridge stuff , well, not so much. In racing the rotor assemblies and the bobbin hardware get replaced every sprint race or in pitstops in enduro racing. On the street, the brake dust and corrosion even in summer causes the bobbins to seize , and the rotors dont float properly and the brake pulsation is horrible. After a very short use time. There are 24 bolts nuts and washers on each of my PFC bobbins per rotor and it takes about three hours to remove, strip, clean and reassemble the rotors and replace on the car. I may go to the simpler Brembo style bobbins but they get replaced often and they cost 125 a set. Is this practical for the street?
Blank rotors. The really good Brembo rotors for Cobalt dont have curved vanes or even really decent sized vanes but the material is very good. That said, the pad to disc deposition is an issue. I slot my Brembo rotors; the rotors last longer and the wet weather performance is better, with more immediate brake apply. I did straight slots like we do in racing. They are noisy as heck on a quiet car; I hear it on my SAAB, on my Redline i just hear the exhaust on my Redline. I machined curved slots and fixed the noise. Interesting. IN racing no one cares about brake noise.
Brake Pads. Pagid ceramic race pads are my favorite; Andreas Boehm the German Pagid brake engineer in USA is super responsive, always at the track and good with advice. I dont actively race in USA anymore, but Andreas always has time to answer my email questions and I use his stuff on Corvettes and the like for the customer track cars. $1200 a set for the RS 19 pads for the Brembo 6 piston calipers. PAGID dont do pads for the Cobalt for sale. What they made for our team they made for us.
The Ferodo HP1000 LNF pad is a very good pad, and the stock LSJ pad is very good as well for the track and street. For more track oriented stuff you need a better ceramic material. I use HP1000 for street and track and I use el cheapo Bendix Metal masters for the winter. 40 dollars a set on amazon some days, works awesome at minus 30 degrees, where HP 1000 do not.
But back on topic to rotors. Most folks dont know that the material is what makes the rotor good, and you cant buy good cheaply.
I suggest folks down load and read this. Its current and its correct and its from the SAE, Good stuff
http://www.sae.org/events/bce/tutorial-ihm.pdf
So once you know you need at least G4000 grey iron rotors can you order them by material? I doubt it. So you are back to relying on what most folks have found on here for street and track work: For the LSJ bone stock OEM rotors are best. For the LNF bone stock Brembo rotors are the best.
thats all I got for now.
Spawne32 to validate my point of view, I have spent most of my life at the race track. I have done extensive brake development work for GM particularly on Corvette over a twenty year period. I have seen many broken and cracked drilled rotors and unhappy customers . I have seen broken and cracked blank and slotted rotors but way less. Hardly any. Heat checked? for sure. Especially when folks over brake their cars on the track.
So. That out of the way, what will work? The first thing is, as I have done the track to street and racing carryover to street more than most folks here are some things that are best for braking in racing, that are not always going to work on the street.
brake cooling ducts. hoses get ripped off and replaced . In a 24 hour race complete brake hub caliper cooling assemblies are replaced in a pit stop these days. Not practical for the street. Brake ducsts are bad for winter snow build up and trash etc. Decent red silicone 3 inch brake duct hose is 12 bux a foot.
Floating rotors. I love them. the Coleman rotors I use are brilliant. Very good material and well machined in Menommee, Michigan . The hardware I have used , like the PFC bridge stuff , well, not so much. In racing the rotor assemblies and the bobbin hardware get replaced every sprint race or in pitstops in enduro racing. On the street, the brake dust and corrosion even in summer causes the bobbins to seize , and the rotors dont float properly and the brake pulsation is horrible. After a very short use time. There are 24 bolts nuts and washers on each of my PFC bobbins per rotor and it takes about three hours to remove, strip, clean and reassemble the rotors and replace on the car. I may go to the simpler Brembo style bobbins but they get replaced often and they cost 125 a set. Is this practical for the street?
Blank rotors. The really good Brembo rotors for Cobalt dont have curved vanes or even really decent sized vanes but the material is very good. That said, the pad to disc deposition is an issue. I slot my Brembo rotors; the rotors last longer and the wet weather performance is better, with more immediate brake apply. I did straight slots like we do in racing. They are noisy as heck on a quiet car; I hear it on my SAAB, on my Redline i just hear the exhaust on my Redline. I machined curved slots and fixed the noise. Interesting. IN racing no one cares about brake noise.
Brake Pads. Pagid ceramic race pads are my favorite; Andreas Boehm the German Pagid brake engineer in USA is super responsive, always at the track and good with advice. I dont actively race in USA anymore, but Andreas always has time to answer my email questions and I use his stuff on Corvettes and the like for the customer track cars. $1200 a set for the RS 19 pads for the Brembo 6 piston calipers. PAGID dont do pads for the Cobalt for sale. What they made for our team they made for us.
The Ferodo HP1000 LNF pad is a very good pad, and the stock LSJ pad is very good as well for the track and street. For more track oriented stuff you need a better ceramic material. I use HP1000 for street and track and I use el cheapo Bendix Metal masters for the winter. 40 dollars a set on amazon some days, works awesome at minus 30 degrees, where HP 1000 do not.
But back on topic to rotors. Most folks dont know that the material is what makes the rotor good, and you cant buy good cheaply.
I suggest folks down load and read this. Its current and its correct and its from the SAE, Good stuff
http://www.sae.org/events/bce/tutorial-ihm.pdf
So once you know you need at least G4000 grey iron rotors can you order them by material? I doubt it. So you are back to relying on what most folks have found on here for street and track work: For the LSJ bone stock OEM rotors are best. For the LNF bone stock Brembo rotors are the best.
thats all I got for now.
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; Nov 5, 2014 at 08:09 PM.
It doesnt surprise me that ZZP's crack, there is a post on here about their rotors not fitting their kit, they have MADE IN CHINA stamped right on them. However high performance rotors are definitely available for the cobalt. Rockauto sells no less then a dozen high performance rotors for the brembo equipped cars and even more for LSJ brakes. Stoptech/Centric and Powerstop all listed. DBA sells high performance rotors for the LSJ brakes as well. You go with cheap rotors, they are going to crack, regardless of being blanks, drilled, slotted, or drilled and slotted, and every rotor has its limits, how high those limits are depends on the rotor and the quality. To isolate drilled rotors as being terrible for everything is foolish, because they are just as high performance as slotted, and serve their own function.
and ya the rotors are made in china which is to be expected in a $600 brake kit, can easily buy different rotors and have them redrilled. ill be swapping out the rotors before i do any road courses
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Not sure where all the lack of respect in this thread comes from. Gets tiresome.
Spawne32 to validate my point of view, I have spent most of my life at the race track. I have done extensive brake development work for GM particularly on Corvette over a twenty year period. I have seen many broken and cracked drilled rotors and unhappy customers . I have seen broken and cracked blank and slotted rotors but way less. Hardly any. Heat checked? for sure. Especially when folks over brake their cars on the track.
So. That out of the way, what will work? The first thing is, as I have done the track to street and racing carryover to street more than most folks here are some things that are best for braking in racing, that are not always going to work on the street.
brake cooling ducts. hoses get ripped off and replaced . In a 24 hour race complete brake hub caliper cooling assemblies are replaced in a pit stop these days. Not practical for the street. Brake ducsts are bad for winter snow build up and trash etc. Decent red silicone 3 inch brake duct hose is 12 bux a foot.
Floating rotors. I love them. the Coleman rotors I use are brilliant. Very good material and well machined in Menommee, Michigan . The hardware I have used , like the PFC bridge stuff , well, not so much. In racing the rotor assemblies and the bobbin hardware get replaced every sprint race or in pitstops in enduro racing. On the street, the brake dust and corrosion even in summer causes the bobbins to seize , and the rotors dont float properly and the brake pulsation is horrible. After a very short use time. There are 24 bolts nuts and washers on each of my PFC bobbins per rotor and it takes about three hours to remove, strip, clean and reassemble the rotors and replace on the car. I may go to the simpler Brembo style bobbins but they get replaced often and they cost 125 a set. Is this practical for the street?
Blank rotors. The really good Brembo rotors for Cobalt dont have curved vanes or even really decent sized vanes but the material is very good. That said, the pad to disc deposition is an issue. I slot my Brembo rotors; the rotors last longer and the wet weather performance is better, with more immediate brake apply. I did straight slots like we do in racing. They are noisy as heck on a quiet car; I hear it on my SAAB, on my Redline i just hear the exhaust on my Redline. I machined curved slots and fixed the noise. Interesting. IN racing no one cares about brake noise.
Brake Pads. Pagid ceramic race pads are my favorite; Andreas Boehm the German Pagid brake engineer in USA is super responsive, always at the track and good with advice. I dont actively race in USA anymore, but Andreas always has time to answer my email questions and I use his stuff on Corvettes and the like for the customer track cars. $1200 a set for the RS 19 pads for the Brembo 6 piston calipers. PAGID dont do pads for the Cobalt for sale. What they made for our team they made for us.
The Ferodo HP1000 LNF pad is a very good pad, and the stock LSJ pad is very good as well for the track and street. For more track oriented stuff you need a better ceramic material. I use HP1000 for street and track and I use el cheapo Bendix Metal masters for the winter. 40 dollars a set on amazon some days, works awesome at minus 30 degrees, where HP 1000 do not.
But back on topic to rotors. Most folks dont know that the material is what makes the rotor good, and you cant buy good cheaply.
I suggest folks down load and read this. Its current and its correct and its from the SAE, Good stuff
http://www.sae.org/events/bce/tutorial-ihm.pdf
So once you know you need at least G4000 grey iron rotors can you order them by material? I doubt it. So you are back to relying on what most folks have found on here for street and track work: For the LSJ bone stock OEM rotors are best. For the LNF bone stock Brembo rotors are the best.
thats all I got for now.
Spawne32 to validate my point of view, I have spent most of my life at the race track. I have done extensive brake development work for GM particularly on Corvette over a twenty year period. I have seen many broken and cracked drilled rotors and unhappy customers . I have seen broken and cracked blank and slotted rotors but way less. Hardly any. Heat checked? for sure. Especially when folks over brake their cars on the track.
So. That out of the way, what will work? The first thing is, as I have done the track to street and racing carryover to street more than most folks here are some things that are best for braking in racing, that are not always going to work on the street.
brake cooling ducts. hoses get ripped off and replaced . In a 24 hour race complete brake hub caliper cooling assemblies are replaced in a pit stop these days. Not practical for the street. Brake ducsts are bad for winter snow build up and trash etc. Decent red silicone 3 inch brake duct hose is 12 bux a foot.
Floating rotors. I love them. the Coleman rotors I use are brilliant. Very good material and well machined in Menommee, Michigan . The hardware I have used , like the PFC bridge stuff , well, not so much. In racing the rotor assemblies and the bobbin hardware get replaced every sprint race or in pitstops in enduro racing. On the street, the brake dust and corrosion even in summer causes the bobbins to seize , and the rotors dont float properly and the brake pulsation is horrible. After a very short use time. There are 24 bolts nuts and washers on each of my PFC bobbins per rotor and it takes about three hours to remove, strip, clean and reassemble the rotors and replace on the car. I may go to the simpler Brembo style bobbins but they get replaced often and they cost 125 a set. Is this practical for the street?
Blank rotors. The really good Brembo rotors for Cobalt dont have curved vanes or even really decent sized vanes but the material is very good. That said, the pad to disc deposition is an issue. I slot my Brembo rotors; the rotors last longer and the wet weather performance is better, with more immediate brake apply. I did straight slots like we do in racing. They are noisy as heck on a quiet car; I hear it on my SAAB, on my Redline i just hear the exhaust on my Redline. I machined curved slots and fixed the noise. Interesting. IN racing no one cares about brake noise.
Brake Pads. Pagid ceramic race pads are my favorite; Andreas Boehm the German Pagid brake engineer in USA is super responsive, always at the track and good with advice. I dont actively race in USA anymore, but Andreas always has time to answer my email questions and I use his stuff on Corvettes and the like for the customer track cars. $1200 a set for the RS 19 pads for the Brembo 6 piston calipers. PAGID dont do pads for the Cobalt for sale. What they made for our team they made for us.
The Ferodo HP1000 LNF pad is a very good pad, and the stock LSJ pad is very good as well for the track and street. For more track oriented stuff you need a better ceramic material. I use HP1000 for street and track and I use el cheapo Bendix Metal masters for the winter. 40 dollars a set on amazon some days, works awesome at minus 30 degrees, where HP 1000 do not.
But back on topic to rotors. Most folks dont know that the material is what makes the rotor good, and you cant buy good cheaply.
I suggest folks down load and read this. Its current and its correct and its from the SAE, Good stuff
http://www.sae.org/events/bce/tutorial-ihm.pdf
So once you know you need at least G4000 grey iron rotors can you order them by material? I doubt it. So you are back to relying on what most folks have found on here for street and track work: For the LSJ bone stock OEM rotors are best. For the LNF bone stock Brembo rotors are the best.
thats all I got for now.
Not sure where all the lack of respect in this thread comes from. Gets tiresome.
Spawne32 to validate my point of view, I have spent most of my life at the race track. I have done extensive brake development work for GM particularly on Corvette over a twenty year period. I have seen many broken and cracked drilled rotors and unhappy customers . I have seen broken and cracked blank and slotted rotors but way less. Hardly any. Heat checked? for sure. Especially when folks over brake their cars on the track.
So. That out of the way, what will work? The first thing is, as I have done the track to street and racing carryover to street more than most folks here are some things that are best for braking in racing, that are not always going to work on the street.
brake cooling ducts. hoses get ripped off and replaced . In a 24 hour race complete brake hub caliper cooling assemblies are replaced in a pit stop these days. Not practical for the street. Brake ducsts are bad for winter snow build up and trash etc. Decent red silicone 3 inch brake duct hose is 12 bux a foot.
Floating rotors. I love them. the Coleman rotors I use are brilliant. Very good material and well machined in Menommee, Michigan . The hardware I have used , like the PFC bridge stuff , well, not so much. In racing the rotor assemblies and the bobbin hardware get replaced every sprint race or in pitstops in enduro racing. On the street, the brake dust and corrosion even in summer causes the bobbins to seize , and the rotors dont float properly and the brake pulsation is horrible. After a very short use time. There are 24 bolts nuts and washers on each of my PFC bobbins per rotor and it takes about three hours to remove, strip, clean and reassemble the rotors and replace on the car. I may go to the simpler Brembo style bobbins but they get replaced often and they cost 125 a set. Is this practical for the street?
Blank rotors. The really good Brembo rotors for Cobalt dont have curved vanes or even really decent sized vanes but the material is very good. That said, the pad to disc deposition is an issue. I slot my Brembo rotors; the rotors last longer and the wet weather performance is better, with more immediate brake apply. I did straight slots like we do in racing. They are noisy as heck on a quiet car; I hear it on my SAAB, on my Redline i just hear the exhaust on my Redline. I machined curved slots and fixed the noise. Interesting. IN racing no one cares about brake noise.
Brake Pads. Pagid ceramic race pads are my favorite; Andreas Boehm the German Pagid brake engineer in USA is super responsive, always at the track and good with advice. I dont actively race in USA anymore, but Andreas always has time to answer my email questions and I use his stuff on Corvettes and the like for the customer track cars. $1200 a set for the RS 19 pads for the Brembo 6 piston calipers. PAGID dont do pads for the Cobalt for sale. What they made for our team they made for us.
The Ferodo HP1000 LNF pad is a very good pad, and the stock LSJ pad is very good as well for the track and street. For more track oriented stuff you need a better ceramic material. I use HP1000 for street and track and I use el cheapo Bendix Metal masters for the winter. 40 dollars a set on amazon some days, works awesome at minus 30 degrees, where HP 1000 do not.
But back on topic to rotors. Most folks dont know that the material is what makes the rotor good, and you cant buy good cheaply.
I suggest folks down load and read this. Its current and its correct and its from the SAE, Good stuff
http://www.sae.org/events/bce/tutorial-ihm.pdf
So once you know you need at least G4000 grey iron rotors can you order them by material? I doubt it. So you are back to relying on what most folks have found on here for street and track work: For the LSJ bone stock OEM rotors are best. For the LNF bone stock Brembo rotors are the best.
thats all I got for now.
Spawne32 to validate my point of view, I have spent most of my life at the race track. I have done extensive brake development work for GM particularly on Corvette over a twenty year period. I have seen many broken and cracked drilled rotors and unhappy customers . I have seen broken and cracked blank and slotted rotors but way less. Hardly any. Heat checked? for sure. Especially when folks over brake their cars on the track.
So. That out of the way, what will work? The first thing is, as I have done the track to street and racing carryover to street more than most folks here are some things that are best for braking in racing, that are not always going to work on the street.
brake cooling ducts. hoses get ripped off and replaced . In a 24 hour race complete brake hub caliper cooling assemblies are replaced in a pit stop these days. Not practical for the street. Brake ducsts are bad for winter snow build up and trash etc. Decent red silicone 3 inch brake duct hose is 12 bux a foot.
Floating rotors. I love them. the Coleman rotors I use are brilliant. Very good material and well machined in Menommee, Michigan . The hardware I have used , like the PFC bridge stuff , well, not so much. In racing the rotor assemblies and the bobbin hardware get replaced every sprint race or in pitstops in enduro racing. On the street, the brake dust and corrosion even in summer causes the bobbins to seize , and the rotors dont float properly and the brake pulsation is horrible. After a very short use time. There are 24 bolts nuts and washers on each of my PFC bobbins per rotor and it takes about three hours to remove, strip, clean and reassemble the rotors and replace on the car. I may go to the simpler Brembo style bobbins but they get replaced often and they cost 125 a set. Is this practical for the street?
Blank rotors. The really good Brembo rotors for Cobalt dont have curved vanes or even really decent sized vanes but the material is very good. That said, the pad to disc deposition is an issue. I slot my Brembo rotors; the rotors last longer and the wet weather performance is better, with more immediate brake apply. I did straight slots like we do in racing. They are noisy as heck on a quiet car; I hear it on my SAAB, on my Redline i just hear the exhaust on my Redline. I machined curved slots and fixed the noise. Interesting. IN racing no one cares about brake noise.
Brake Pads. Pagid ceramic race pads are my favorite; Andreas Boehm the German Pagid brake engineer in USA is super responsive, always at the track and good with advice. I dont actively race in USA anymore, but Andreas always has time to answer my email questions and I use his stuff on Corvettes and the like for the customer track cars. $1200 a set for the RS 19 pads for the Brembo 6 piston calipers. PAGID dont do pads for the Cobalt for sale. What they made for our team they made for us.
The Ferodo HP1000 LNF pad is a very good pad, and the stock LSJ pad is very good as well for the track and street. For more track oriented stuff you need a better ceramic material. I use HP1000 for street and track and I use el cheapo Bendix Metal masters for the winter. 40 dollars a set on amazon some days, works awesome at minus 30 degrees, where HP 1000 do not.
But back on topic to rotors. Most folks dont know that the material is what makes the rotor good, and you cant buy good cheaply.
I suggest folks down load and read this. Its current and its correct and its from the SAE, Good stuff
http://www.sae.org/events/bce/tutorial-ihm.pdf
So once you know you need at least G4000 grey iron rotors can you order them by material? I doubt it. So you are back to relying on what most folks have found on here for street and track work: For the LSJ bone stock OEM rotors are best. For the LNF bone stock Brembo rotors are the best.
thats all I got for now.
As you said in the second part, brake rotor metallurgy is key to all of this. Cheap cast rotors are going to crack much easier then a higher quality counterpart. Regardless of its design.
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Update:
Yesterday, at the road track, my other R1Concepts rotor died on me. I don't think it is a coincidence that this has happened to both front R1C rotors now and my two front stock rotors don't even show any sign of hair cracks in them. So I rest my case. R1C's look great, but under that nice machined surface and those nice powder coated edges hides a very cheap Chinese made piece of metal that is just a very poor quality. It may work fine for most that drive their car on the street, but it is not fit for competitive driving on a road course.
Yesterday, at the road track, my other R1Concepts rotor died on me. I don't think it is a coincidence that this has happened to both front R1C rotors now and my two front stock rotors don't even show any sign of hair cracks in them. So I rest my case. R1C's look great, but under that nice machined surface and those nice powder coated edges hides a very cheap Chinese made piece of metal that is just a very poor quality. It may work fine for most that drive their car on the street, but it is not fit for competitive driving on a road course.
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