http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/...LSJ_Suspension

thats why they're 250.. because the competition is 200 .. and they're better then the competition lol

 

#1 Powell. Thats me. Use my name in vain and p**s me off. Listen. You know nothing about costs and price and machining or you would not shoot your mouth off. Listen to the other members here.

#2 Dollar for dollar we are equal to or better than most reputable shops for pricing of jobs. We mainly build race cars and Corvettes...

#3 You get nothing for nothing. This forum is full of folks who have to re-do/ go back/get it done over/ on their jobs. This week we have had three jobs we are fixing from other folks who could not/ or did not /do it right the first time.

4 As of today Friday March 20, the company that makes the FE5 control arms for GM's Cobalt in Warren MI., has the tooling. Can build arms. Has NO orders. NO parts. NO bushings. So once the current inventory (whatever that is) is exhausted, its over for these arms. Msybe GM will order some more....

5 You can buy used arms at Junkyard.com.Fine, the balljoints are NOT serviceable. Good luck with that.

6. These parts that I make for Josh, he takes a modest (and I mean that) profit. You have no idea what we use for a joint. Its hard to get, and cannot be purchased seperately from GM, it comes in the rear suspension of the car we sourced it from.

7 I have ordered a couple of hundred cross axis joints to get the price down. They are not made in the USA or Canada. Its been three weeks & I still dont have answers. If the price goes down, Josh and his customers will be delighted. If it doesnt, so sad too bad its the way it is. Stick with what you got. Try poly and live with the results.


end of rant.

 

1st off I said nothing bad about you so you don't need to act like that! And you are correct I don't know the cost break down of the price on YOUR PART! And as far as the used unit goes I was trying to help someone that doesn't already have the aluminum unit find one. So he can get the unit and put YOUR bushing in. Is that not how it works.

 

Are you sure? I have a pair of these on the way, so I guess I will know shortly.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...questid=539604

 

That's interesting. I hope that these do work out.

However, it is not installing the new joints that will be the issue. It is getting the old ones out without destroying the control arms that will. I hope you have a drill press and some good quality titanium nitride coated bits.

 

x 2. I suspect these ball joints are provided for the standard steel control arms. Like Shab says if they work thats great. i suggest you go to a machine shop and try to mill the rivet out flush to the arm rather than drill it...this is a real serious job to get the old one out without screwing up the arm which is real easy to do as it is soft compared to the ball jont itself. good luck let us know how you make out.

YOU said: "And I do retract my statement about all your products being over priced as that is NOT true, just the ones from Powell. "
did i misinterpret this? thanks

 

That was not meant as a derogatory remark and is just my opinion. All I really wanted to know is more about the product and more and more I am learning. I didn't know that you had no control over the price of the bushing that you out sourced and that it is a soon to be discontinued product.

 

wow thanks for taking that back ( I think) lets chill for a moment. NOTHING I said indicated that this was a "soon to be discontinued product" int erms of our parts, what I said was it has been "three weeks" and I still dont have an answer on my order for more joints. I am trying to figure out where you are coming from, and I have about given up. Fortunately, the folks that know understand and appreicate the work and effor that goes into these things, Maven tested the parts in the winter coz I didnt want to drive my car in the salt and snow, and soon more will become available...

if you were refering to Cobalt it is hardly a secret that it is up for replacement, the only impediment to that is the current economic situtation. GM Performance Division, however, the division responsible for low volume performance cars we know and love, is disbanded, thats a fact, and any enthusiast cars will have to come from folks like us...and you...

 

Already got 2 naked control arms sitting here. The rivets came out relatively easy with a press. Grind down one side of the rivet and press it out. Drilling is not worth trying.

 

Sweet! Glad to hear it. Keep us up to date on it!

 

err, just a quick aside.. this isnt necessarily right, its only a good idea to charge more than the competition if the demand is there, and if the equilibrium price is above the price you set. If enough customers arent willing to spend $50 more dollars on the product, then the company will end up losing money. And it seems that this product is entering the market late, when people have already spent money on similar parts. And those customers may be happy and not willing to spend 250 more dollars on a supposed better product. Lets face it, not all people believe in all products. So the market for this product is already smaller (most likely) and they are charging more than the competition, this could be a recipe for disaster, in terms of economic profit.

But to the point, its nice to see new products being introduced. Id love to beef up my suspension, just not sure what rear bar to get. Im glad Maven is a member on this board so I have somewhere to get my suspension ideas from.

 

The price is the same as our competitors for a superior product.

 

Thank you for a reasoned post. FYI Josh got the good news from me today that in fact the next shipment of bushings for these arms will be less money ( I only sent him a few sets) and if you dont know Josh , he always tries to give the best prices for his products. The fact is these exclusive OTTP time attack CAB bushings are the real thing, and just as the 'Balt world is discovering that the OTTP billet (no less) "rotato potato"engine mounts are the real deal, the CABs are the same thing. I am not the one who said that poly mounts are 50 dollars less that these ones (currently) but I can say this unquivocally:the poly CABss cost between 2 bucks and 10 cents to make and are about worth that much. Some of the pictures posted on this forum of the poly cabs after a few miles are truly frightening.

Oh and one more thing? I got your bar. Time attack original diameter, or my reccomendation for your use, the 1.0 bar...powdercoated deep purple coz thats what Maven wanted. Available through OTTP. Happy motoring!

 

Ive been looking at OTTPs site but I can only see the Eibach bars. I would love to get the bar you speak of but as of now I dont know where it is.

Also, that rotated mount is only for the 2.0 correct? Or would it fit on my 2.4?

 

rotato potato mounts? quik, i think youve been talking to ls1fbody too much

 

The bar isn't up just yet This weekend for sure.

 

Gen Beckmeister got it from Steddy. Steddy got it from his gf. She did'nt know where she got it so she went to the clinic . Just sayin'. And thats qwik to you....

yes only 2.0 . If there is enough demand i can make a 2.4 one, its just a lot of work and money to do it if there is limited demand...I am really happy with how the time attack bars came out; the first ones were bent up at the GM proving grounds, the latest ones have been bent by a really really expert guy, and in fact are superior in the angle of the bends which doesnt do diddly for handling but makes Josh feel good as he wants the very best products to sell. The material spec sheet guarantees that you are buying a chrome moly bar, the material is sourced in Germany and thats the best....the anchor inserts are fusion tig welded. I have used the 1.0 bar for two years now on the street/track and it really makes a sweet handling car....for the crazeez out there, the 1.25 is suitable overkill. The secret (other than the material and its anchor) is the roll center change...thats the #1 reason why it works so well.

There is one more change to come for the rear twisting beam, (I havent made it for the street yet, but LS1fBody has it ) For sure at the front of your car the CABs that Maven tested are the #1 thing you need to do to the front to make the car turn in and not wear out the outer tire rib...

 

is this the complete control arm or just the bushing?

 

Its a spherical bushing

 

damn alright. are the ss/tc control arms differnt from the ss/sc? not the bushings the actual arm

 

No the actual arms are exactly the same on the SS, SS/SC and SS/TC.

 

This is the piece I was referring to in my other thread... Thumbs up,

 

o i gotcha. i will be ordering some next saturday josh

 

will there be an option for the redlines to "upgrade" from the OEM stamped steel to the cobalt's aluminum LCA? with the spherical bushing?

 

i have many (not an inexhaustible supply, but RL are a vanishingbreed anyway ) alloy control arms in stock with good ball joint so mention it to Josh when you order and he will come up with a decent price for you as he usually does with all the OTTP stuff. <Must be replaced in pairs, the castor setting changes so wheel base would be different if you changed them one at a time...