This is for all high performance brakes


After completing installation, make a series of 10 stops from 60 to 5-10 MPH. At the end of each stop, immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. Run all stops in one cycle. During the 60 to 5-10 MPH series of stops, the exact speed is not critical. Accelerate to approximately 60 and begin the braking cycle. As you approach 5-10 MPH, it is not necessary to watch the speedometer, keep your eyes on the road and approximate your speed at the end of each cycle.

DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP, AS YOU WILL IMPRINT PAD MATERIAL ONTO THE ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION.

There are several indicators to look for while breaking in the system: On the 8th or 9th stop, there should be a distinct smell from the brakes. Smoke may be evident after several stops as well.

Also on the 8th or 9th stop, some friction materials will experience “green fade”. This is a slight fading of the brakes. The fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have cooled.

After the break-in cycle is finished, there will be a blue tint color on the rotor with a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint indicates the rotor has reached the proper break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is normal and good! If f racing or higher per performance pads are being used, add four stops from 80 to 5-10mph and if a full race pad, four stops from 100 to 5-10 mph. After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes will still not be operating at their best capacity. A second or third d bed-in cycle is typically necessary before the brakes really start to “ come in”. A cycle is a series of stops with a cool down in between each cycle.

After the final stop of each cycle, drive as much as possible without using the brakes to cool off the system. Ideally, the brakes should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature before using again.

 

This seems plausible, where did you get this info from?

 

the company that did my big brake kit... It works great... It is something for the brembo and kit guys plus it will work for new rotors and pads

 

All manuafacturers recommend a bedding in procedure for new pads, it varies from compound to compound and company to company but most are similar to that. For street level pads you usually dont go straight to 60 for the first groups of stops, a lower 30-35mph speed is recommended by some makers(i like to do this) and then you work your way up to higher speeds.
I havent seen someone talk about "green fade" before for street apps....typically you dont want there to be any fade will bedding in a pad, it should just get better and better each time you stop, if it fades its probably too hot (imo)
and you need to just drive without brake application to let them cool before continuing

 

all true but all missing a critical point. You have to build the temp with as little pedal pressure as possible. the fade you get is actually the gassing of the pad material causing a temporary frictionless boundary layer to the rotor.

green fade on stock pads is possible if you push the car too hard too soon dumb.

 

That would explan why Ive never heard it mentined as a "normal" part of the bedding in process. Why is it that I know that fade isnt a normal part of bedding n pads, but guys writing brake bedding instructions for a brake commpany dont....

Ill bet its a typo, and is supposed to say something about custom green paint

 

i dont see following the instructions for breaking in breaks as a sticky... How-To sure, but i dont see normal maintenance, that varies greatly from compound to company as a sticky...

 

It's more than plausible its CONFIRMED!

If you do road course then you will know this. You never use your brakes when coming in to a stop. Well brake pedal you just ease up on the e-brake along with engine braking.

 

road racers NEVER use the E brake. Most of them have removed it anyway...sure you use your brakes when you pit. Duh! Stop in the pit stall, then dont stay on the brake pedal when you are stopped...

 

Umm...coming into the pit every racer I road with used their e-brake to slow down then come to a full stop. Not ONE hit their brake pedal after they reached a certain speed. Then they just creep in then used e-brake SLOWLY.

 

with respect this is the most wacko thing i have ever heard. I have been racing since 1966,. our team has 3 back to back Motorola Championships and one Grand Am Championship, with production based F and Y cars just for background.

 

Okay are we talking average joe road racing or die hard road racing? I only have experience in average joe. And most people run cheap pads...then you have some that pay top dollar for them just to last a weekend. They use their brakes but at the final stop they pull e-brake to not let the pad sit on the rotor.

I am not talking about NEVER using brakes. I am talking about that last 1-2mph stop you do to turn off your car to pull up the e-brake to stop the movement so you can get out. That you don't touch your brakes THEN as it will put the imprint in the rotor.

 

^that just sounds cooky.

and you always brake BEFORE the turn. any traction used for braking can't be used for turning. accelerate lightly or just hold your speed in the turn. dump your speed before, accelerate out.

of course, there are other ways, but this one makes the most sense to me.

i just re-read what you said.

i guess i can see it if they want the rear pads to do the work without putting extra wear on the front pads, as they do most of the work, but pulling the e-brake at 1-2mph sounds to me like they're trying to be cool, not actually to serve a purpose.

 

Wait a minute are we talking about ON the road course or OFF. I am talking about OFF.

1-2mph is SLOW it just keeps the pads from putting a imprint on the rotor when the rotation stops.

 

WTF is going on here???

1)Road racers, Pro/Joe or otherwise typically dont ever use the e-brake, some sanctioning bodies dont even want one on the car. So there is no using it to stop no matter how slow youre talking about. If youre using a stock vehicle in club racing or HPDE, dont use your ebrake.

2) relying on your ebrake in the pits, if youve even got one, is dangerous.

3)You dont always brake before the turn, braking while turning is called trailbraking and for some drivers/cars/turns its the fastest way through the turn. It isnt a beginners technique though, for exactly the reason you pointed out(the tire grip "circle")

4)Regardless of what type of vehicle you drive the chances are pretty good that your ebrake actually uses your service brakes to do its job, so assuming you do have one, and you do use this technique, youre actually increasing the change of unwanted friction material transfer!!!! If youve got a Cobalt of any kind with stock brakes, your ebrake IS your regular brakes. ebrake=fail.

 

Okay please explain how it is okay to use your regular brakes and NOT get a imprint and come to a complete stop.

 

Use your service(regular) brakes to come to a stop, turn off engine, place car in gear, release brakes.

 

10-4 ; then nascar style. shift to neutral coast in, stop foot off brake, in gear on second side up, go on drop... i recommend that all drivers coast in to the pit box in neutral i have seen too many cars lurch forward and hit crew coz the (race) driver forgot the car was in gear and the engine was running. This ebrake thing has me shaking my head