Suspension clunk on aftermarket parts
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 12-05-10
Posts: 3,877
Likes: 3
From: newmarket
Suspension clunk on aftermarket parts
So I have a black Tc sedan and currently suspension wise I'm sitting on ark ATP coil overs with powells cabs and powergrid endlinks, I have a low frequency clunking coming from the front passenger side
Any ideas on what it could be until I get a chance to check it out?
Any ideas on what it could be until I get a chance to check it out?
The trailing cabs and leading, or just the trailing? Make sure the trailing cab bolts are tightened to 135 ftlbs. The powergrids should be silent, so I doubt they are an issue, unless one of the nuts is loose. The clunking is more likely from your coilovers though. The spherical bearing at the top can be pretty noisy. Also, make sure the big nut under the adjustment knob is tight. They tend to loosen up, which will cause it to clunk around. Have a friend push the top of the tire inwards, and see if the adjustment knob moves. If it does, the nut underneath is loose.
Good luck. Chasing clunks are a pain.
Good luck. Chasing clunks are a pain.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 12-05-10
Posts: 3,877
Likes: 3
From: newmarket
Yea I know the usual noises I have the steering
Motor rattle, the sun roof rattle, had them all in my last cobalt, I had these coils in my last Balt, never made this noise, John installed the cabs on my car , gotta be something with the coils tho
Motor rattle, the sun roof rattle, had them all in my last cobalt, I had these coils in my last Balt, never made this noise, John installed the cabs on my car , gotta be something with the coils tho
The trailing cabs and leading, or just the trailing? Make sure the trailing cab bolts are tightened to 135 ftlbs. The powergrids should be silent, so I doubt they are an issue, unless one of the nuts is loose. The clunking is more likely from your coilovers though. The spherical bearing at the top can be pretty noisy. Also, make sure the big nut under the adjustment knob is tight. They tend to loosen up, which will cause it to clunk around. Have a friend push the top of the tire inwards, and see if the adjustment knob moves. If it does, the nut underneath is loose.
Good luck. Chasing clunks are a pain.
Good luck. Chasing clunks are a pain.
the top mount is probably an issue the ark coilovers dont have a camber adjustable top plate as far as I could see. weird looking set up and really low, tire hitting top rail low.Chris will figure it out, or bring it in and we will find it.
Coil overs really suck imho . even if done right a la Ohlins etc, what a waste on the street. And Chris drives his car in the winter as well. Ugh...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 12-05-10
Posts: 3,877
Likes: 3
From: newmarket
Yes the coils are coming off as soon as I get those struts off u John my stock fe5s are currently sitting on my previouse ride, need those fe3s to throw on to get the fe5s back on my car for winter
How to correctly diagnose rattles and noise over bumps...from GM TSB
Ť on: Today at 09:38:56 PM ť Quote
________________________________________
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 04-03-08-006E
Date: November 01, 2010
Subject: Steering and Front Suspension Noise Concerns - Clunk, Thump, Rattle, Knocking, Pop, Shudder, Vibration (Diagnosis and Perform Necessary Repair)
Models:
2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt (Including SS)
2006-2010 Chevrolet HHR (Including SS)
2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)
2007-2010 Pontiac G5
2003-2007 Saturn ION
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add 2010 model year and update Condition #7 with new part information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-08-006D (Section 03 - Suspension).
This bulletin provides information on eight different steering/front suspension noise conditions.
Condition #1
Some customers may comment on a rattle or knocking noise that is heard in the front of the vehicle while driving at low speeds 8-24 km/h (5-15 mph). This condition may be more noticeable while making a slow turn or on a loose/rough surface.
This condition can be duplicated by the technician using the following procedure:
1. On a rough or loose surface (i.e., gravel parking lot), make a sweeping turn (either direction) at 8-24 km/h (5-15 mph to load the steering column, I-shaft and steering rack/gear mechanisms. The testing on a rough or loose surface will allow the wheels to oscillate slightly and will make the rattle/knocking noise more evident and repeatable.
2. Release the steering wheel while making the turn to take load off of steering components. This should initiate the rattle/shudder noise, which is generated by backlash in the steering assembly as it is in a no-load float condition.
3. Remove the 60 amp EPS fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block.
4. Test the vehicle as in Step 1. Since the EPS motor is no longer powered, only the I-shaft and steering gear/rack will be loaded as you make the turn. If you hear the rattle/knocking noise during the turn, then the noise is being generated by the backlash within the steering column (assist motor gear mechanism).
5. Replace the 60 amp EPS fuse and repeat Steps 1 and 2 to verify that the rattle/knocking noise disappears when turning (loading steering mechanism) and can only be heard when releasing the steering wheel.
Correction #1
If the steering column is identified as the source of the rattle/knocking noise in the above test, replace the steering column.
Important
The noise in the steering column is generated from the metal to plastic gear backlash of the assist motor mechanism and will have a different sound than that from the steering gear. If the customer comments that they still hear a noise, it may be a different sound from either the I-shaft or the steering rack.
If the steering column is not identified as the source of the rattle/knocking in the above test, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Parts Information #1
For part numbers and usage of the column, see Steering Column Kit in Group 06.518 of the appropriate Parts Catalog. Saturn Retailers should refer to the appropriate model year Parts & Illustration Catalog for the vehicle.
Warranty Information #1
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Condition #2 (Chevrolet Cobalt, HHR and Pontiac G5 Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk or thump noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road surfaces. This noise will typically occur when the front suspension is returning to the upward position after a hard downward stroke, such as after driving through a large rut or pothole.
Cause #2
This condition may be caused by the jounce bumper slamming into the upper spring seat because it is not retained in the correct up position. The jounce bumper loses position due to oil being deposited onto its retention fingers. The oil is from the strut leaking.
Correction #2
Inspect the front strut(s) for evidence of oil. The leak may be slight but will still cause the concern. If oil is present, replace the affected strut, jounce bumper and dust boot (shield). Before reassembling the strut assembly, glue the new jounce bumper and new dust boot (shield) to the upper spring seat using the steps listed below. To further confirm this concern, the shield/bumper will easily slide up and down the strut shaft.
1. Clean the surface area of the upper spring seat using fine sandpaper.
2. Apply a light coat *of 3M(TM) Automotive Adhesion Promoter, P/N 06396, to the top of the dust boot (shield) on the inside edge and to the top of the bumper. Allow to dry 10 minutes.
3. Glue the bumper to the inside of the dust boot (shield) as shown. Use *3M(TM) Duramix(TM) Super Fast Adhesive, P/N 04747. Allow to cure thoroughly 5-10 minutes at room temperature.
4. Apply a light coat of *3M(TM) Automotive Adhesion Promoter, P/N 06396, to the top of the dust boot (shield) and to the upper spring seat surface. Allow to dry 10 minutes.
5. Glue the dust boot (shield) to the upper spring seat as shown using the above recommended adhesive. Allow to cure thoroughly.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from other sources.
Parts Information #2
For part numbers and usage of the strut, see Strut Kit in Group 07.345 of the appropriate Parts Catalog.
Warranty Information #2
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Condition #3
Some customers may comment on a clunk/pop type noise coming from the front of the vehicle when driving over rough road surfaces.
Cause #3
This noise may be caused by the stabilizer shaft link ball stud becoming contaminated from moisture.
Correction #3
Inspect the front stabilizer shaft links for damage. To isolate the noise, the link can be also be disconnected from the stabilizer shaft. If the link appears damaged or if the noise goes away when disconnected, replace the link with the revised part.
Parts Information #3
Warranty Information #3
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Condition #4
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition can also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Typically, the clunk noise will be heard once for every 90°of steering wheel rotation in either direction. This clunk noise may also be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel.
The following are characteristics of this noise:
- This noise is very random.
- This noise is independent of the steering wheel angle and independent of the bumpiness of the road.
- This noise is a low frequency dull one and can be felt in your feet.
- This noise can normally be heard from the driver seat.
- This noise can be felt upon touching the steering gear from outside of the vehicle.
Note
You might also notice a slight scrub-type noise when turning the wheel back and forth. This type of noise is considered normal and repairs will not eliminate it.
Cause #4
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft.
Correction #4
Important
DO NOT replace the steering gear or steering column assembly.
Replace the intermediate shaft.
Important
If the vehicle has already had a steering intermediate shaft replaced for a similar noise concern that the dealer duplicated, determine from the customer if the noise went away for a period of time and came back, or if the service shaft made no change. If the noise was gone for a period of time and came back, have the dealer replace the shaft again to verify we do not have a defective service shaft.
If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Parts Information #4
Warranty Information #4
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Condition #5
Some customers may comment on a rattle/clunk type noise coming from the steering column when driving over bumps.
Correction #5
The following steps have been found to be very effective in removing this condition.
1. Check for the possibility of the PCM and the TCM rattling/clunking together. If there is contact between these two modules, insulate the modules from each other using a small piece of foam.
2. Check that the retaining clip on the engine coolant surge tank is fully seated. If not, push down to seat.
Rattles/clunks in this area of the engine compartment may be heard as coming from the steering column while driving.
If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Warranty Information #5
Condition #6 (FE1 Suspension Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk, thump or rattle noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road conditions or when braking.
Cause #6
This condition may be caused by the lower control arm rubber bushing (rear) coming out of its steel sleeve (1). This will cause the lower control arm to make hard contact (2) with the body structure. This condition may be more prevalent in regions that use road salt during the winter months.
Correction #6
If the rubber bushing has moved out of the steel sleeve, replace the lower control arm bushing. Do not replace the bushing if it is still centered in the steel sleeve.
If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose using chassis ears to identify the source of the noise.
Parts Information #6
Warranty Information #6
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Condition #7
Some customers may comment on a squeak, rattle, pop, or clunk noise coming from the front of the vehicle during suspension movement.
Cause #7 (Saturn ION Only)
This condition may be caused by the interface between the front stabilizer shaft, the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and the front stabilizer shaft mounting clamp.
Correction #7 (Saturn ION Only)
Replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), if necessary, using the following procedure.
1. Verify the customer comment. Use Chassis Ear (SA9217NE or J39570) or a similar tool to determine the source of the noise. Refer to Noise Diagnosis - Front Suspension in SI.
2. If the noise is coming from either the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) or the clamps:
Important
Check the Service Parts Identification label in the rear compartment (trunk) to determine the vehicle's suspension system type, then obtain the correct insulators (bushings) corresponding to that suspension system type.
- On vehicles built after VIN breakpoint 4Z125195, replace both front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings). Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.
- On vehicles built up to and including VIN 4Z125195, replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and clamps. Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.
3. Verify the repair by repeating Step 1.
Parts Information #7 (Saturn ION Only)
Cause #7 (Cobalt, G5, HHR)
This condition may be caused by the interface between the front stabilizer shaft and the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings).
Correction #7 (Cobalt, G5, HHR)
Replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), if necessary, using the following procedure.
1. Verify the customer comment. Use Chassis Ear (SA9217NE or J39570) or a similar tool to determine the source of the noise. Refer to Noise Diagnosis - Front Suspension in SI.
Important
Check the Service Parts Identification label in the rear compartment (trunk) to determine the vehicle's suspension system type, then obtain the correct insulators (bushings) corresponding to that suspension system type.
2. If the noise is coming from either the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), replace both front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings). Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.
3. Verify the repair by repeating Step 1.
Parts Information #7 (Cobalt, G5, HHR)
Warranty Information #7
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Condition #8
Some customers may comment on a whine/hum noise from the steering column while making right hand turns at 5-15 mph (8-24 km/h). A slight whine/hum noise is considered to be normal for EPS so it will be helpful to compare to another like vehicle. If the vehicle exhibits excessive feedback/noise when compared to another vehicle, follow the correction procedure below.
Correction #8
Important
DO NOT replace the steering column.
Pull the 60 amp steering fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block. If this eliminates the whine/hum concern, contact the Technical Assistance Center for further information in order to repair the vehicle. If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Disclaimer
Ť on: Today at 09:38:56 PM ť Quote
________________________________________
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 04-03-08-006E
Date: November 01, 2010
Subject: Steering and Front Suspension Noise Concerns - Clunk, Thump, Rattle, Knocking, Pop, Shudder, Vibration (Diagnosis and Perform Necessary Repair)
Models:
2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt (Including SS)
2006-2010 Chevrolet HHR (Including SS)
2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)
2007-2010 Pontiac G5
2003-2007 Saturn ION
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add 2010 model year and update Condition #7 with new part information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-08-006D (Section 03 - Suspension).
This bulletin provides information on eight different steering/front suspension noise conditions.
Condition #1
Some customers may comment on a rattle or knocking noise that is heard in the front of the vehicle while driving at low speeds 8-24 km/h (5-15 mph). This condition may be more noticeable while making a slow turn or on a loose/rough surface.
This condition can be duplicated by the technician using the following procedure:
1. On a rough or loose surface (i.e., gravel parking lot), make a sweeping turn (either direction) at 8-24 km/h (5-15 mph to load the steering column, I-shaft and steering rack/gear mechanisms. The testing on a rough or loose surface will allow the wheels to oscillate slightly and will make the rattle/knocking noise more evident and repeatable.
2. Release the steering wheel while making the turn to take load off of steering components. This should initiate the rattle/shudder noise, which is generated by backlash in the steering assembly as it is in a no-load float condition.
3. Remove the 60 amp EPS fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block.
4. Test the vehicle as in Step 1. Since the EPS motor is no longer powered, only the I-shaft and steering gear/rack will be loaded as you make the turn. If you hear the rattle/knocking noise during the turn, then the noise is being generated by the backlash within the steering column (assist motor gear mechanism).
5. Replace the 60 amp EPS fuse and repeat Steps 1 and 2 to verify that the rattle/knocking noise disappears when turning (loading steering mechanism) and can only be heard when releasing the steering wheel.
Correction #1
If the steering column is identified as the source of the rattle/knocking noise in the above test, replace the steering column.
Important
The noise in the steering column is generated from the metal to plastic gear backlash of the assist motor mechanism and will have a different sound than that from the steering gear. If the customer comments that they still hear a noise, it may be a different sound from either the I-shaft or the steering rack.
If the steering column is not identified as the source of the rattle/knocking in the above test, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Parts Information #1
For part numbers and usage of the column, see Steering Column Kit in Group 06.518 of the appropriate Parts Catalog. Saturn Retailers should refer to the appropriate model year Parts & Illustration Catalog for the vehicle.
Warranty Information #1
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Condition #2 (Chevrolet Cobalt, HHR and Pontiac G5 Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk or thump noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road surfaces. This noise will typically occur when the front suspension is returning to the upward position after a hard downward stroke, such as after driving through a large rut or pothole.
Cause #2
This condition may be caused by the jounce bumper slamming into the upper spring seat because it is not retained in the correct up position. The jounce bumper loses position due to oil being deposited onto its retention fingers. The oil is from the strut leaking.
Correction #2
Inspect the front strut(s) for evidence of oil. The leak may be slight but will still cause the concern. If oil is present, replace the affected strut, jounce bumper and dust boot (shield). Before reassembling the strut assembly, glue the new jounce bumper and new dust boot (shield) to the upper spring seat using the steps listed below. To further confirm this concern, the shield/bumper will easily slide up and down the strut shaft.
1. Clean the surface area of the upper spring seat using fine sandpaper.
2. Apply a light coat *of 3M(TM) Automotive Adhesion Promoter, P/N 06396, to the top of the dust boot (shield) on the inside edge and to the top of the bumper. Allow to dry 10 minutes.
3. Glue the bumper to the inside of the dust boot (shield) as shown. Use *3M(TM) Duramix(TM) Super Fast Adhesive, P/N 04747. Allow to cure thoroughly 5-10 minutes at room temperature.
4. Apply a light coat of *3M(TM) Automotive Adhesion Promoter, P/N 06396, to the top of the dust boot (shield) and to the upper spring seat surface. Allow to dry 10 minutes.
5. Glue the dust boot (shield) to the upper spring seat as shown using the above recommended adhesive. Allow to cure thoroughly.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from other sources.
Parts Information #2
For part numbers and usage of the strut, see Strut Kit in Group 07.345 of the appropriate Parts Catalog.
Warranty Information #2
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Condition #3
Some customers may comment on a clunk/pop type noise coming from the front of the vehicle when driving over rough road surfaces.
Cause #3
This noise may be caused by the stabilizer shaft link ball stud becoming contaminated from moisture.
Correction #3
Inspect the front stabilizer shaft links for damage. To isolate the noise, the link can be also be disconnected from the stabilizer shaft. If the link appears damaged or if the noise goes away when disconnected, replace the link with the revised part.
Parts Information #3
Warranty Information #3
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Condition #4
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition can also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Typically, the clunk noise will be heard once for every 90°of steering wheel rotation in either direction. This clunk noise may also be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel.
The following are characteristics of this noise:
- This noise is very random.
- This noise is independent of the steering wheel angle and independent of the bumpiness of the road.
- This noise is a low frequency dull one and can be felt in your feet.
- This noise can normally be heard from the driver seat.
- This noise can be felt upon touching the steering gear from outside of the vehicle.
Note
You might also notice a slight scrub-type noise when turning the wheel back and forth. This type of noise is considered normal and repairs will not eliminate it.
Cause #4
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft.
Correction #4
Important
DO NOT replace the steering gear or steering column assembly.
Replace the intermediate shaft.
Important
If the vehicle has already had a steering intermediate shaft replaced for a similar noise concern that the dealer duplicated, determine from the customer if the noise went away for a period of time and came back, or if the service shaft made no change. If the noise was gone for a period of time and came back, have the dealer replace the shaft again to verify we do not have a defective service shaft.
If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Parts Information #4
Warranty Information #4
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Condition #5
Some customers may comment on a rattle/clunk type noise coming from the steering column when driving over bumps.
Correction #5
The following steps have been found to be very effective in removing this condition.
1. Check for the possibility of the PCM and the TCM rattling/clunking together. If there is contact between these two modules, insulate the modules from each other using a small piece of foam.
2. Check that the retaining clip on the engine coolant surge tank is fully seated. If not, push down to seat.
Rattles/clunks in this area of the engine compartment may be heard as coming from the steering column while driving.
If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Warranty Information #5
Condition #6 (FE1 Suspension Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk, thump or rattle noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road conditions or when braking.
Cause #6
This condition may be caused by the lower control arm rubber bushing (rear) coming out of its steel sleeve (1). This will cause the lower control arm to make hard contact (2) with the body structure. This condition may be more prevalent in regions that use road salt during the winter months.
Correction #6
If the rubber bushing has moved out of the steel sleeve, replace the lower control arm bushing. Do not replace the bushing if it is still centered in the steel sleeve.
If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose using chassis ears to identify the source of the noise.
Parts Information #6
Warranty Information #6
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Condition #7
Some customers may comment on a squeak, rattle, pop, or clunk noise coming from the front of the vehicle during suspension movement.
Cause #7 (Saturn ION Only)
This condition may be caused by the interface between the front stabilizer shaft, the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and the front stabilizer shaft mounting clamp.
Correction #7 (Saturn ION Only)
Replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), if necessary, using the following procedure.
1. Verify the customer comment. Use Chassis Ear (SA9217NE or J39570) or a similar tool to determine the source of the noise. Refer to Noise Diagnosis - Front Suspension in SI.
2. If the noise is coming from either the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) or the clamps:
Important
Check the Service Parts Identification label in the rear compartment (trunk) to determine the vehicle's suspension system type, then obtain the correct insulators (bushings) corresponding to that suspension system type.
- On vehicles built after VIN breakpoint 4Z125195, replace both front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings). Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.
- On vehicles built up to and including VIN 4Z125195, replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and clamps. Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.
3. Verify the repair by repeating Step 1.
Parts Information #7 (Saturn ION Only)
Cause #7 (Cobalt, G5, HHR)
This condition may be caused by the interface between the front stabilizer shaft and the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings).
Correction #7 (Cobalt, G5, HHR)
Replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), if necessary, using the following procedure.
1. Verify the customer comment. Use Chassis Ear (SA9217NE or J39570) or a similar tool to determine the source of the noise. Refer to Noise Diagnosis - Front Suspension in SI.
Important
Check the Service Parts Identification label in the rear compartment (trunk) to determine the vehicle's suspension system type, then obtain the correct insulators (bushings) corresponding to that suspension system type.
2. If the noise is coming from either the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), replace both front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings). Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.
3. Verify the repair by repeating Step 1.
Parts Information #7 (Cobalt, G5, HHR)
Warranty Information #7
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Condition #8
Some customers may comment on a whine/hum noise from the steering column while making right hand turns at 5-15 mph (8-24 km/h). A slight whine/hum noise is considered to be normal for EPS so it will be helpful to compare to another like vehicle. If the vehicle exhibits excessive feedback/noise when compared to another vehicle, follow the correction procedure below.
Correction #8
Important
DO NOT replace the steering column.
Pull the 60 amp steering fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block. If this eliminates the whine/hum concern, contact the Technical Assistance Center for further information in order to repair the vehicle. If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.
Disclaimer
Looks like someone made a video of the nut I was talking about.
DIY: Megan Racing Coilover Noise Fix 1 - YouTube
DIY: Megan Racing Coilover Noise Fix 1 - YouTube
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 12-05-10
Posts: 3,877
Likes: 3
From: newmarket
^ this
I had the strut out took it apart cleaned it up relubed it, the bushings at the top looks good still, just putting it back on the car gonna re check the torque on everything, so hopefully something I've done will fix it lol
I had the strut out took it apart cleaned it up relubed it, the bushings at the top looks good still, just putting it back on the car gonna re check the torque on everything, so hopefully something I've done will fix it lol
I doubt this is it, but it's an easy check. Disconnect the front swaybar. You really only need to remove one endlink to test it. Would tell you if your swaybar bushings are toast. I'm assuming it's not the new powergrids, since they are new. Also, make sure the bottom 2 strut nuts and bolts are tight.
BTW - you never answered, do you have PRS front and trailing bushings, or just the rear one?
BTW - you never answered, do you have PRS front and trailing bushings, or just the rear one?
best you pass by with it. this internet diagnosis stuff gets old. There should be a nut underneath the ark top mount that may be the issue. I am not familiar with them and of course I did not install them lol
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 12-05-10
Posts: 3,877
Likes: 3
From: newmarket
Only time I may be able to stop by is Saturday but may not be able to as I may have to work saturday, and no theres no nut under the top mount the shock has a shaft that goes tho the top mount bushings and it bolts on. That's the only nut it has. But I'll see about stopping by Saturday, I'm not to worried a bout it as if it goes away with the removal of the coil overs then that's fine I know what the problem is, if it doesn't go away with the removal of the coils then I'll drop it off at chevy and let them deal with it
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