Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

Traction Bars

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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 05:48 PM
  #26  
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by Bad06SS
Interesing. I'd like to see results before I could make a decision. Right now, at the track, I have zero wheelhop, just a ton of wheel spin.
BWoody is confident that a stock cobalt ss would be able to get 2.0 60 foots with an average driver and that some people may dip into the high 1's. i'm going to try to get to the track soon so i can see if my 60's improve. as of right now my best 60' is a 2.4x (yeah i'm not that great of a driver). plus i wheel hopped all the way trough first and into second. people with poly control arm bushings are not going to see as large a gain since the poly CAB's get rid of most if not all wheel hop. but the traction bars will help keep the control arms from deflecting giving you a wider contact patch. especially effective when combined with DR's or slicks.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 05:50 PM
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yeah,.,., I got screwed with a 2.318 on 205 55 r16 mud and snows.... next time I"m taking the stock wheels with me.. to see whats better
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 05:52 PM
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that's not bad at all then. i got my 2.4 with the stock rims and tires.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 05:54 PM
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well a friend (inhale) pulled at 2.0 60 ft stock on stock rims and tires 2 weeks ago.... very disappointed in my cars performance... also the afr's way outta wack and needs some serious tuning (friday) I was bogging into third real bad... had like and 82 mph 1/8 mile but only hit 103.xx top end... goin back next week to see what happens
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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a 2.0 60 foot completely stock, or just on stock tires? also, anything on for wheel hop like tq brace or poly control arm bushings?
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:11 PM
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both all he has is a torque brace and engine mount
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:13 PM
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My best 60' is a 1.95 on dr's with CAB's. The more power you add to these things, the harder they are to launch!
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:15 PM
  #33  
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I hear that,,,, my car was all over the place... its hopped a bit then just spun em ... kept goin through 2nd gear and I was featherin the **** outta the throttle too.... I'm waiting on our video to get posted up from fri... a few of us went there.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:17 PM
  #34  
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by 06blackg85ss
both all he has is a torque brace and engine mount
so he has something to stop the wheel hop then. my 2.4 was completely stock. i need to see what i can hit with the traction bars on now.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 06:18 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Bad06SS
My best 60' is a 1.95 on dr's with CAB's. The more power you add to these things, the harder they are to launch!
then you should be looking into these traction bars to get the most out of your contact patch.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 08:36 PM
  #36  
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well just ordered the traction bars... lets see if I can get em on before next fri when I head to the track... lets see if they work.,,, also anyone in the NY area that got a set of 16" dr;s let me know... these mud + snows suck... and I want to see what I can pull with out breaking my axles... which are getting replaced soon... but not for at least 2 weeks... (fingers crossed) RIPP Performance said they'd do em... lets see how they are./
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 02:13 AM
  #37  
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I recently had a run in with this idea. The only problem i have is the hole being drilled in the control arm. I have it under good faith that a better design is being produced as we speak. Anyone interested?

Anyway, Thats awesome that they work for you guys, congrats!
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 04:03 AM
  #38  
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yeah, i was a bit hesitant with drilling into my control arms. but after looking under the car, there really is no other way to connect them to the control arms. and after seeing how beefy the stock control arms are i said what the **** and went for it. if something goes wrong the control arms are pretty cheap to replace... and i wouldn't be replacing them with stock components anyway.
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 03:19 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by iso
yeah, i was a bit hesitant with drilling into my control arms. but after looking under the car, there really is no other way to connect them to the control arms. and after seeing how beefy the stock control arms are i said what the **** and went for it. if something goes wrong the control arms are pretty cheap to replace... and i wouldn't be replacing them with stock components anyway.
The control arms are permenantly connected to the ball joint via rivets. You can't replace one without the other. Im going to wait for a better way, which is comming really soon.

Anyway, Im happy it worked for you. again Congrats.
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 03:52 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by leviticus88
The control arms are permenantly connected to the ball joint via rivets. You can't replace one without the other. Im going to wait for a better way, which is comming really soon.

Anyway, Im happy it worked for you. again Congrats.
You can to replace one without the other. You drill out the rivets just like you would any other rivet. That's even in the GM manuals adn is the SOP of GM these days.
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 06:08 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by hypsy
You can to replace one without the other. You drill out the rivets just like you would any other rivet. That's even in the GM manuals adn is the SOP of GM these days.
Have fun with that.
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Old Jul 22, 2006 | 03:19 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by leviticus88
Have fun with that.

i shouldn't have to worry about it anyway. the stock redline control arms are cast with a hole in them it can't reduce structural integrity by that much to drill one in ours, considering ours are thicker.
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Old Jul 22, 2006 | 03:33 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by iso
i shouldn't have to worry about it anyway. the stock redline control arms are cast with a hole in them it can't reduce structural integrity by that much to drill one in ours, considering ours are thicker.
You do make a strong point, Hope all works well and please keep us posted.
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Old Jul 22, 2006 | 08:01 AM
  #44  
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Im interested. How much are they going to be?
I found them on Ebay for 270. I made a post about it befor I found this thread.

Later
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Old Jul 22, 2006 | 09:02 AM
  #45  
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From: santa ana
http://www.mfgsupply.com/GoMiniSteer...on_id=Ar76UbJG

less than 50 bucks in parts u can make ur own
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Old Jul 22, 2006 | 12:56 PM
  #46  
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id like these but there to much money i could make those my self
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Old Jul 22, 2006 | 01:43 PM
  #47  
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...ok one question can you use em on the 2.2... there is no ETB for the 2.2 motor and my wheels flop like a fish outta water... would they work on a 2.2 b/c i want them if they do!!!
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Old Jul 23, 2006 | 01:16 AM
  #48  
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^...bump for an answer...^
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Old Jul 23, 2006 | 01:19 AM
  #49  
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From: Colorado
The 2.2l doesn't have aluminum control arms but the steal ones it does have already have a hole drilled in them. So, yes I think you can use them.
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 10:13 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by iso
try launching a little lower 2000-2500 rpms. or... just go to the track, i got wheel hop very badly when i went to the track. and rob who has these on his redline broke an axle from wheel hop. try going to the track and launchingat 3,000 rpm. or if you have a patch of smooth concrete like we had to test try that.
Ok, you just answered your own problem. Why launch at 2500 if you know it causes wheel hop and not 3000 where it isn't? Why would I buy a part to solve a problem I can fix with my right foot?
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