Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

Traction Bars

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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 03:34 PM
  #51  
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GTP
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From: Greensburg (PA)
Originally Posted by cawpin
Ok, you just answered your own problem. Why launch at 2500 if you know it causes wheel hop and not 3000 where it isn't? Why would I buy a part to solve a problem I can fix with my right foot?

Have you launched on a drag track at 3000? If not, try it and see what happens to your wheel hop and 60' foot times. With the rubber that is laid down these cars will hop themselves into pieces..unless you have high air pressure in your tires, in which case your 60' will be aweful.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 04:01 PM
  #52  
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From: New York
so the way im lookin at it, i consider myself a good driver (even stock, ive never lost to a type s or another ss s.c out of 5 except for 1) so all i would need are the CAB's and these traction bars and i would be looking at 1.9 60ft's? Any good ss s.c drivers out there lemme know!
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 10:16 AM
  #53  
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From: N/A
Originally Posted by GTP
Have you launched on a drag track at 3000? If not, try it and see what happens to your wheel hop and 60' foot times. With the rubber that is laid down these cars will hop themselves into pieces..unless you have high air pressure in your tires, in which case your 60' will be aweful.
I'm driving a LT, not an SS, so your power may be more of an issue. However, yes I've launched at 3000 at a track. It was in my Cavalier but the suspension geometry wasn't that different. I had no wheel hop until I tried launching at 4000. 3500 seemed to be just about perfect.
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Old Aug 12, 2006 | 04:15 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by iso
try launching a little lower 2000-2500 rpms. or... just go to the track, i got wheel hop very badly when i went to the track. and rob who has these on his redline broke an axle from wheel hop. try going to the track and launchingat 3,000 rpm. or if you have a patch of smooth concrete like we had to test try that.
Wheel hop is also noticeable in the rain at times.
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Old Aug 12, 2006 | 04:21 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by cawpin
Ok, you just answered your own problem. Why launch at 2500 if you know it causes wheel hop and not 3000 where it isn't? Why would I buy a part to solve a problem I can fix with my right foot?
Dude you dont get wheel hop everytime. go to the track that is well prepared. you will experience what everyone is talking about. do you really think 1000 guys who has viewed this link would not be doubting like you are. I have not read this post completely but so far I only have seen you with doubt about wheel hop being a problem. Also 3000 rpm drop is hard on all components, gives excessive wheel spin, and will not give a good 60 ft if your not hooking up.

EDIT - now I see why you are not experiencing the problem. you have a car with less than 100 HP then quite a few of us have. Our problem is increased with HP. now it makes sense. Go and get a 75 shot of nitrous and tell us what happens then.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 02:55 PM
  #56  
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From: Philadelphia, Pa
yeah^.. but the 270 bucks for some time/labor, and 4 bolts, 4 ends, and some allthread is ******* rediculous. not worth the money in my opinion.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 03:36 AM
  #57  
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iso
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Originally Posted by R33P3R007
yeah^.. but the 270 bucks for some time/labor, and 4 bolts, 4 ends, and some allthread is ******* rediculous. not worth the money in my opinion.
then build your own and quit bitching. why don't you start selling em cheaper then? a shiny intake tube and an air filter is like 300 bucks i don't know why your complaining, that takes even less money to manufacture.
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 09:28 AM
  #58  
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From: conowingo
all thread? whose traction bars is he looking at?
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 11:33 AM
  #59  
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From: Nashville
Originally Posted by REIGNftSOLDIER
...ok one question can you use em on the 2.2... there is no ETB for the 2.2 motor and my wheels flop like a fish outta water... would they work on a 2.2 b/c i want them if they do!!!
You can in fact use the Ingalls ETB on the 2.2 I know there was some discussion about incompatibility before, but here's the incombitable parts, which can be switched out:

First you are going to have to use an aftermarket intake. The stock air box blocks access to the mount.

The second part is the engine mount itself. The 2005 design on the L61 cars had a different bolt pattern, and the ingalls brackets didn't line up with it. 2006 cars had the updated design, so you wouldn't have to change it. You will need to replace the motor mount. Relax, its actually very easy to do. You will need to simply order a new mount from GM. I believe they are fairly cheap. When you get it you will right away see the difference from the unit in your car, and the new mount is the same as the LSJ mount. Ingalls will bolt right up.
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