Did you find it made much of a difference?

 

Awesome. I'm checking my account this weekend and maybe I'll order them Monday night.

 

Like I mentioned above; wheel hop is completely gone.
Currently a 2.9 setup, with 5 degrees + timing on top fo the stage 2 tune/flash. Around 250-260 FWHP. Will know for sure on Monday when I get it dynoed.

You won't regret it. Make sure to get some chasis grease. I just used what was laying around in the garage. Was a chasis grease from Napa. As soon as you have them installed, grease up both ends that meet the control arm and the frame on top and the bottom. This will really eliminate ALOT of the squeeking and creeking caused by metal to metal contact.

good luck, and enjoy

 

well good to see someone else has had a hell of a good time with em... jus make sure there tight on drag night and you wont have an axel granade... but hey that's what happen's when you take a FWD to the track and do a 4k launch as run number 18...

 

Haha

Last time I dropped at anywhere near that RPM "3200k" I spun the tires thru 3rd gear lol...

 

Mods are in my sig... I had the ITD... it is OKAY, but not that great. Changed to the solid TTR upper... night and day difference, and looks way better too. Couldn't be happier. So solid upper+polyurethane inserts+traction bars = happy traction Now I just need DR's... lol... even with my G-force KDW2's and 235/40 I get so much spin haha.

 

i dont give two ***** what others say here, these are the facts.

if you lock the engine and trans in place with mounts the half shafts can still move with the hub and control arm VIA the CV joints.

the control arm articulating is the leading cause of wheel hop, with the weak rear control arm bushing allowing the control arm to move forward and aft under power, thus making wheel hop.

the poly-CABs have proven to have sketchy reliability (mine died in under a week) so thats not a full proof solution.

traction bars will massively limit / remove this forward and aft movement of the control arm, this reducing the wheel hop to a EXTREMELY low amount or remove it all.

while mounts and such help reduce movement thus limiting wheel hop, as the power increses the effects dwindle. I have SOLID steel custom trans mounts with poly engine mounts and the car hops just as bad now as it did from day one.

the best overall solution would be to have a spherical CAB much like the neons and other "intelligently" designed FWD suspensions have. I have mine designed and the fabrication and install happens tomorrow, its long over due.