Upgrading from FE1 to FE5.
10-28-2015, 11:29 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Upgrading from FE1 to FE5.
Greetings and salutations!
Brand new to the forum but have been guest visiting for a few weeks now. Decided to sign up because I need to clear up a few things for myself before I start ordering parts.
Now, as the title indicates, I'm planning to do a full FE1 to FE5 conversion. Not all at once, it's going to be a work in progress. I have a 2010 Cobalt LT.
Now, as far as what I'm planning to change in the front:
- The struts (I know that YYZ sells a good setup with the OEM FE5)
- The lighter lower control arms
- Probably the stab bar, as I think it's thicker than my stock one.
- Pretty sure I'm going to be swapping the links and the bushings while I'm there. I'm assuming that there's an FE5 counterpart to mine that are somehow better.
Think that covers the front suspension, chime in if I forgot to list something. Now, here's the big question. Do I need to change the subframe (or cradle as I heard it to be referenced a few times) to accomodate my upgrades? The only difference that I can think of that the FE5 one has is how the stab bar brackets are made, and even then I'm not sure. I'm also assuming that the power steering racks are the same between all models, so I don't have to worry about that. I'm hoping that I can bolt up all the FE5 parts directly to my stock subframe.
A little paraphrase that's kind of related to the suspension upgrade. I'm planning to change the rear torsion beam axle to the FE5 (SS) one since it falls under my suspension upgrades and I've lately had a fetish for swapping my drums to discs in the back. Help me fill my list for what I need to do that properly while maintaining a working brake pedal.
- The torsion beam axle
- Does it come with the hubs...?
- Discs, pads, calipers (duh)
- I'll be needing new e-brake cables?
- I'm assuming the SS brake lines as well
- The SS master cylinder (running on DOT3 I hope)
- What else...?
Pretty lengthy for a first post, but I've managed to keep it shorter than the bible. Any and all input will be greatly appreceated.
Brand new to the forum but have been guest visiting for a few weeks now. Decided to sign up because I need to clear up a few things for myself before I start ordering parts.
Now, as the title indicates, I'm planning to do a full FE1 to FE5 conversion. Not all at once, it's going to be a work in progress. I have a 2010 Cobalt LT.
Now, as far as what I'm planning to change in the front:
- The struts (I know that YYZ sells a good setup with the OEM FE5)
- The lighter lower control arms
- Probably the stab bar, as I think it's thicker than my stock one.
- Pretty sure I'm going to be swapping the links and the bushings while I'm there. I'm assuming that there's an FE5 counterpart to mine that are somehow better.
Think that covers the front suspension, chime in if I forgot to list something. Now, here's the big question. Do I need to change the subframe (or cradle as I heard it to be referenced a few times) to accomodate my upgrades? The only difference that I can think of that the FE5 one has is how the stab bar brackets are made, and even then I'm not sure. I'm also assuming that the power steering racks are the same between all models, so I don't have to worry about that. I'm hoping that I can bolt up all the FE5 parts directly to my stock subframe.
A little paraphrase that's kind of related to the suspension upgrade. I'm planning to change the rear torsion beam axle to the FE5 (SS) one since it falls under my suspension upgrades and I've lately had a fetish for swapping my drums to discs in the back. Help me fill my list for what I need to do that properly while maintaining a working brake pedal.
- The torsion beam axle
- Does it come with the hubs...?
- Discs, pads, calipers (duh)
- I'll be needing new e-brake cables?
- I'm assuming the SS brake lines as well
- The SS master cylinder (running on DOT3 I hope)
- What else...?
Pretty lengthy for a first post, but I've managed to keep it shorter than the bible. Any and all input will be greatly appreceated.
10-29-2015, 12:58 PM
#2
I've swapped mostly everything on my front end to FE5. Generally, you can swap the parts as you acquire them, but it is easiest if you do it all at once. Here are a few tips that come to mind.
- FE5 struts are a nice upgrade from FE1. Alternatively, you could go straight to Koni yellows. You have to cut apart your original strut body, but the FE1,3,5 struts are all dimensionally identical, so it would allow you to reuse your FE1 strut bodies.
- Powell's YYZ springs are very nice, and will compliment the FE5 or Koni shocks and struts.
- FE3 and FE5 control arms are aluminum, and are identical. You can get them from any Cobalt SS, Sport, or Pontiac G5 GT. Make sure you have the correct ball joint, as the SS/TC control arms have a slightly larger ball joint. You can either replace the ball joint, or force your steering knuckle to fit the larger one.
- Be sure to replace the trailing control arm bushing. The Moog problem solver bushing is a nice low-cost upgrade. Powell and OTTP also make even nicer upgraded bushings.
- The FE5 front sway bar is much thicker than your FE1 bar. You'll have to decide if you want to go with the SS/SC or SS/TC bar, as they are slightly different. Also, be sure to get the stock OEM bushings in the proper size, as well as the proper style to fit the bushing bracket. The bar, bushings, and brackets are pretty cheap at Crate Engine Depot.
- When you replace the sway bar, you'll need to replace the end links with the ones that are the proper length for the bar you chose. The factory end links are weak and wear out quickly. The Moog end links are beefier, but not maintenance-free. Powergrid adjustable end links are pricey, but require no maintenance. I currently have Moog end links, and they are worn out.
- Dropping the cradle..... It is best to drop the cradle to replace the sway bar. You're well over half-way to having the cradle dropped when you replace the control arms, so don't be afraid to remove a few extra bolts. FYI, you can leave the engine and transmission mounted to the body and drop the cradle all by itself. Just search for the thread titled "Powell's take on replacing control arm bushings". It explains the process in detail. The cradles are all the same, except for the sway bar bracket mounts. Some are a one-hole design, FE5 uses a two-hole design. You can either keep the brackets you have, or upgrade to the two-bolt design by drilling the second hole. (I just stayed with the 1-hole design.)
- I'd recommend getting a rear sway bar to compliment your new front FE5 suspension. Your car will feel like an entirely different beast with these upgrades.
- FE5 struts are a nice upgrade from FE1. Alternatively, you could go straight to Koni yellows. You have to cut apart your original strut body, but the FE1,3,5 struts are all dimensionally identical, so it would allow you to reuse your FE1 strut bodies.
- Powell's YYZ springs are very nice, and will compliment the FE5 or Koni shocks and struts.
- FE3 and FE5 control arms are aluminum, and are identical. You can get them from any Cobalt SS, Sport, or Pontiac G5 GT. Make sure you have the correct ball joint, as the SS/TC control arms have a slightly larger ball joint. You can either replace the ball joint, or force your steering knuckle to fit the larger one.
- Be sure to replace the trailing control arm bushing. The Moog problem solver bushing is a nice low-cost upgrade. Powell and OTTP also make even nicer upgraded bushings.
- The FE5 front sway bar is much thicker than your FE1 bar. You'll have to decide if you want to go with the SS/SC or SS/TC bar, as they are slightly different. Also, be sure to get the stock OEM bushings in the proper size, as well as the proper style to fit the bushing bracket. The bar, bushings, and brackets are pretty cheap at Crate Engine Depot.
- When you replace the sway bar, you'll need to replace the end links with the ones that are the proper length for the bar you chose. The factory end links are weak and wear out quickly. The Moog end links are beefier, but not maintenance-free. Powergrid adjustable end links are pricey, but require no maintenance. I currently have Moog end links, and they are worn out.
- Dropping the cradle..... It is best to drop the cradle to replace the sway bar. You're well over half-way to having the cradle dropped when you replace the control arms, so don't be afraid to remove a few extra bolts. FYI, you can leave the engine and transmission mounted to the body and drop the cradle all by itself. Just search for the thread titled "Powell's take on replacing control arm bushings". It explains the process in detail. The cradles are all the same, except for the sway bar bracket mounts. Some are a one-hole design, FE5 uses a two-hole design. You can either keep the brackets you have, or upgrade to the two-bolt design by drilling the second hole. (I just stayed with the 1-hole design.)
- I'd recommend getting a rear sway bar to compliment your new front FE5 suspension. Your car will feel like an entirely different beast with these upgrades.
The following 3 users liked this post by toolman:
10-29-2015, 08:17 PM
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
Thanks toolman, I was planning to drop the subframe anyway, I already had to do it a few times. It's good to know that my stock one will accomodate the upgrades. Any input on the drum to disc conversion I want to do as well? If not, I'll post in the brakes department or whatnot. Thanks again.
07-03-2021, 02:02 AM
#4
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2007 Fe1 to fe5 outer tie rods: is it possible ??
[QUOTE=toolman;7573508]I've swapped mostly everything on my front end to FE5. Generally, you can swap the parts as you acquire them, but it is easiest if you do it all at once. Here are a few tips that come to mind.
- FE5 struts are a nice upgrade from FE1. Alternatively, you could go straight to Koni yellows. You have to cut apart your original strut body, but the FE1,3,5 struts are all dimensionally identical, so it would allow you to reuse your FE1 strut bodies.
- Powell's YYZ springs are very nice, and will compliment the FE5 or Koni shocks and struts.
- FE3 and FE5 control arms are aluminum, and are identical. You can get them from any Cobalt SS, Sport, or Pontiac G5 GT. Make sure you have the correct ball joint, as the SS/TC control arms have a slightly larger ball joint. You can either replace the ball joint, or force your steering knuckle to fit the larger one.
- Be sure to replace the trailing control arm bushing. The Moog problem solver bushing is a nice low-cost upgrade. Powell and OTTP also make even nicer upgraded bushings.
- The FE5 front sway bar is much thicker than your FE1 bar. You'll have to decide if you want to go with the SS/SC or SS/TC bar, as they are slightly different. Also, be sure to get the stock OEM bushings in the proper size, as well as the proper style to fit the bushing bracket. The bar, bushings, and brackets are pretty cheap at Crate Engine Depot.
- When you replace the sway bar, you'll need to replace the end links with the ones that are the proper length for the bar you chose. The factory end links are weak and wear out quickly. The Moog end links are beefier, but not maintenance-free. Powergrid adjustable end links are pricey, but require no maintenance. I currently have Moog end links, and they are worn out.
- Dropping the cradle..... It is best to drop the cradle to replace the sway bar. You're well over half-way to having the cradle dropped when you replace the control arms, so don't be afraid to remove a few extra bolts. FYI, you can leave the engine and transmission mounted to the body and drop the cradle all by itself. Just search for the thread titled "Powell's take on replacing control arm bushings". It explains the process in detail. The cradles are all the same, except for the sway bar bracket mounts. Some are a one-hole design, FE5 uses a two-hole design. You can either keep the brackets you have, or upgrade to the two-bolt design by drilling the second hole. (I just stayed with the 1-hole design.)
- I'd recommend getting a rear sway bar to compliment your new front FE5 suspension. Your car will feel like an entirely different
- FE5 struts are a nice upgrade from FE1. Alternatively, you could go straight to Koni yellows. You have to cut apart your original strut body, but the FE1,3,5 struts are all dimensionally identical, so it would allow you to reuse your FE1 strut bodies.
- Powell's YYZ springs are very nice, and will compliment the FE5 or Koni shocks and struts.
- FE3 and FE5 control arms are aluminum, and are identical. You can get them from any Cobalt SS, Sport, or Pontiac G5 GT. Make sure you have the correct ball joint, as the SS/TC control arms have a slightly larger ball joint. You can either replace the ball joint, or force your steering knuckle to fit the larger one.
- Be sure to replace the trailing control arm bushing. The Moog problem solver bushing is a nice low-cost upgrade. Powell and OTTP also make even nicer upgraded bushings.
- The FE5 front sway bar is much thicker than your FE1 bar. You'll have to decide if you want to go with the SS/SC or SS/TC bar, as they are slightly different. Also, be sure to get the stock OEM bushings in the proper size, as well as the proper style to fit the bushing bracket. The bar, bushings, and brackets are pretty cheap at Crate Engine Depot.
- When you replace the sway bar, you'll need to replace the end links with the ones that are the proper length for the bar you chose. The factory end links are weak and wear out quickly. The Moog end links are beefier, but not maintenance-free. Powergrid adjustable end links are pricey, but require no maintenance. I currently have Moog end links, and they are worn out.
- Dropping the cradle..... It is best to drop the cradle to replace the sway bar. You're well over half-way to having the cradle dropped when you replace the control arms, so don't be afraid to remove a few extra bolts. FYI, you can leave the engine and transmission mounted to the body and drop the cradle all by itself. Just search for the thread titled "Powell's take on replacing control arm bushings". It explains the process in detail. The cradles are all the same, except for the sway bar bracket mounts. Some are a one-hole design, FE5 uses a two-hole design. You can either keep the brackets you have, or upgrade to the two-bolt design by drilling the second hole. (I just stayed with the 1-hole design.)
- I'd recommend getting a rear sway bar to compliment your new front FE5 suspension. Your car will feel like an entirely different
07-03-2021, 02:06 PM
#5
Senior Member
[QUOTE=daveycat;7748423]
Yes the tie rod ends are the same part# for fe1, fe3 and fe5 . I just bought a set for my 2007 G5 GT that i'm currently restoring as well with all new fe5 suspension parts. Like others on ths thread already indicated before the parts between the 3 suspension model numbers are all interchangeable with one of the only parts not being completely plug and play which is the t/c fe5 ball joints since they are larger in size and require a bit of modification to fit into the knuckle of a fe1, fe3 or ss/sc fe5 knuckle.
I've swapped mostly everything on my front end to FE5. Generally, you can swap the parts as you acquire them, but it is easiest if you do it all at once. Here are a few tips that come to mind.
- FE5 struts are a nice upgrade from FE1. Alternatively, you could go straight to Koni yellows. You have to cut apart your original strut body, but the FE1,3,5 struts are all dimensionally identical, so it would allow you to reuse your FE1 strut bodies.
- Powell's YYZ springs are very nice, and will compliment the FE5 or Koni shocks and struts.
- FE3 and FE5 control arms are aluminum, and are identical. You can get them from any Cobalt SS, Sport, or Pontiac G5 GT. Make sure you have the correct ball joint, as the SS/TC control arms have a slightly larger ball joint. You can either replace the ball joint, or force your steering knuckle to fit the larger one.
- Be sure to replace the trailing control arm bushing. The Moog problem solver bushing is a nice low-cost upgrade. Powell and OTTP also make even nicer upgraded bushings.
- The FE5 front sway bar is much thicker than your FE1 bar. You'll have to decide if you want to go with the SS/SC or SS/TC bar, as they are slightly different. Also, be sure to get the stock OEM bushings in the proper size, as well as the proper style to fit the bushing bracket. The bar, bushings, and brackets are pretty cheap at Crate Engine Depot.
- When you replace the sway bar, you'll need to replace the end links with the ones that are the proper length for the bar you chose. The factory end links are weak and wear out quickly. The Moog end links are beefier, but not maintenance-free. Powergrid adjustable end links are pricey, but require no maintenance. I currently have Moog end links, and they are worn out.
- Dropping the cradle..... It is best to drop the cradle to replace the sway bar. You're well over half-way to having the cradle dropped when you replace the control arms, so don't be afraid to remove a few extra bolts. FYI, you can leave the engine and transmission mounted to the body and drop the cradle all by itself. Just search for the thread titled "Powell's take on replacing control arm bushings". It explains the process in detail. The cradles are all the same, except for the sway bar bracket mounts. Some are a one-hole design, FE5 uses a two-hole design. You can either keep the brackets you have, or upgrade to the two-bolt design by drilling the second hole. (I just stayed with the 1-hole design.)
- I'd recommend getting a rear sway bar to compliment your new front FE5 suspension. Your car will feel like an entirely different
- FE5 struts are a nice upgrade from FE1. Alternatively, you could go straight to Koni yellows. You have to cut apart your original strut body, but the FE1,3,5 struts are all dimensionally identical, so it would allow you to reuse your FE1 strut bodies.
- Powell's YYZ springs are very nice, and will compliment the FE5 or Koni shocks and struts.
- FE3 and FE5 control arms are aluminum, and are identical. You can get them from any Cobalt SS, Sport, or Pontiac G5 GT. Make sure you have the correct ball joint, as the SS/TC control arms have a slightly larger ball joint. You can either replace the ball joint, or force your steering knuckle to fit the larger one.
- Be sure to replace the trailing control arm bushing. The Moog problem solver bushing is a nice low-cost upgrade. Powell and OTTP also make even nicer upgraded bushings.
- The FE5 front sway bar is much thicker than your FE1 bar. You'll have to decide if you want to go with the SS/SC or SS/TC bar, as they are slightly different. Also, be sure to get the stock OEM bushings in the proper size, as well as the proper style to fit the bushing bracket. The bar, bushings, and brackets are pretty cheap at Crate Engine Depot.
- When you replace the sway bar, you'll need to replace the end links with the ones that are the proper length for the bar you chose. The factory end links are weak and wear out quickly. The Moog end links are beefier, but not maintenance-free. Powergrid adjustable end links are pricey, but require no maintenance. I currently have Moog end links, and they are worn out.
- Dropping the cradle..... It is best to drop the cradle to replace the sway bar. You're well over half-way to having the cradle dropped when you replace the control arms, so don't be afraid to remove a few extra bolts. FYI, you can leave the engine and transmission mounted to the body and drop the cradle all by itself. Just search for the thread titled "Powell's take on replacing control arm bushings". It explains the process in detail. The cradles are all the same, except for the sway bar bracket mounts. Some are a one-hole design, FE5 uses a two-hole design. You can either keep the brackets you have, or upgrade to the two-bolt design by drilling the second hole. (I just stayed with the 1-hole design.)
- I'd recommend getting a rear sway bar to compliment your new front FE5 suspension. Your car will feel like an entirely different
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