Me vs Trans Am
ok so when you ls1 guyz run outta nos you just stay home then?? and why do you need it if the motor is bad ass like every1 talks about?? I kno they are just I'm seriously askin and yes i've read your posts and know that not all do so evrybody dont get up in arms about it ;-)
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From: pa
ok so when you ls1 guyz run outta nos you just stay home then?? and why do you need it if the motor is bad ass like every1 talks about?? I kno they are just I'm seriously askin and yes i've read your posts and know that not all do so evrybody dont get up in arms about it ;-)
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Joined: 06-03-08
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From: Michigan
ok so when you ls1 guyz run outta nos you just stay home then?? and why do you need it if the motor is bad ass like every1 talks about?? I kno they are just I'm seriously askin and yes i've read your posts and know that not all do so evrybody dont get up in arms about it ;-)
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From: Alabama
yeah a 420whp LS1(cam only) doesn't need the damn bottle to beat most of us here... besides, a 10lb bottle will easily make it a weekend and its only $35 to get it filled($3.50/lb here)... which is well worth the cost for being able to have an extra 125-150whp whenever you want it.... if you really have a nitrous addition, buy two or three bottles, most guys that run nitrous have a couple of bottles, so its not going to help you if they lose pressure, especially at the track, someone is just about always willing to let a nitrous guy borrow a bottle if they are out.... or there are usually means to get one filled
its hard to argue with $900 for 150whp, you can make a good argument, but when you get beat by 37 bus lengths, no one really ******* cares... last time I checked all nitrous is, is forced induction... guess what, it just does a better job than a supercharger or turbo for a lot less money... a lot of cars won't hold nitrous, and that is why it has a bad rep, and/or a lot of people just flat out don't know how to spray a car... however, the LS1 block hates boost but it absolutely loves the juice, a 125shot is a SAFE shot, a 150 shot is a COMMON shot, people have gone 175hp on an almost stock LS1.... my brother runs a 150 and has had NO problems for almost 60,000 miles and SEVERAL bottles, he also got his entire kit including window switch, etc. for $700 shipped off of LS1tech used, its a NX Express wet system, even new its around $1000 and you CAN buy a kit cheaper, but I would advise running a window switch, getting a bottle heater, purge system, etc. for safety and to keep your bottle from freezing up
if you won't a boosted LSx, build an iron Block 6.0L
if you want a bottle fed car, any of the aluminum blocks love it
its hard to argue with $900 for 150whp, you can make a good argument, but when you get beat by 37 bus lengths, no one really ******* cares... last time I checked all nitrous is, is forced induction... guess what, it just does a better job than a supercharger or turbo for a lot less money... a lot of cars won't hold nitrous, and that is why it has a bad rep, and/or a lot of people just flat out don't know how to spray a car... however, the LS1 block hates boost but it absolutely loves the juice, a 125shot is a SAFE shot, a 150 shot is a COMMON shot, people have gone 175hp on an almost stock LS1.... my brother runs a 150 and has had NO problems for almost 60,000 miles and SEVERAL bottles, he also got his entire kit including window switch, etc. for $700 shipped off of LS1tech used, its a NX Express wet system, even new its around $1000 and you CAN buy a kit cheaper, but I would advise running a window switch, getting a bottle heater, purge system, etc. for safety and to keep your bottle from freezing up
if you won't a boosted LSx, build an iron Block 6.0L
if you want a bottle fed car, any of the aluminum blocks love it
Last edited by 08inBama; May 5, 2011 at 09:00 PM.
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From: pa
yeah a 420whp LS1(cam only) doesn't need the damn bottle to beat most of us here... besides, a 10lb bottle will easily make it a weekend and its only $35 to get it filled... which is well worth the cost for being able to have an extra 125-150whp whenever you want it.... if you really have a nitrous addition, buy two or three bottles, most guys that run nitrous have a couple of bottles, so its not going to help you if they lose pressure, especially at the track, someone is just about always willing to let a nitrous guy borrow a bottle if they are out
Most speed shops around here sell it
Last edited by frankiess; May 5, 2011 at 08:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: North Carolina
[QUOTE=frankiess;5756653][QUOTE=SSSnoop;5751381]Not to go back to far, but really - have you driven a 6 speed LT1/LS1?!?!? You do not any steeper gears to get off the line with a manual fourth gen with any decent mods done - you can already practically throw out 1st gear for anything but taking off slow on a steep hill with it, the damn things so steep. 3.73's -maybe, but nothing harsher than that, unless you got stock in a tire company. If I'm feeling it, I can kick off the ASR and roast 'em clear through the first two gears, and that's with that "wienie" of an LT1/heads/cam/full exhaust. Gearing is not an issue. Sounds like maybe he should have installed those two rear spark plugs before he ran you!
Yea i have owned a few LT1s auto and 6spd and have owned a few ls1s all 6speeds and have driven the ls2 in a vette, ls3 in new camaro, and ls7 in the C6z06 and currently own a ls2 in my TBSS. And The Trans am i already posted in this thread had 4.56s in it and hooked like a **** and did 1.5 60's all day long at the track. I have yet to own anything with less than 4.10s (owned a bunch of mustangs) even mt TBSS has 4.11s in the front AND rear.
They said that the ta had him off the line and they reeled him in.. Now if he has 3.42s he would not be losing any gear and be continuing to climb in speed and not go through rpm as fast making it a highway gear, thus why turbo cars has 3.42s or less so they have all top end meaning its not for drag racing. 3.73s sometimes, but mostly steeper are made for acceleration not top end and thats why most dig racing cars have those gears. I said nothing about smoking the tires off or anything like that. But if you have 3.42s in your LSx car and i have the 4.56s in that TA i posted pics of i will 60' you all day long, but if the race goes on for a long time, you will catch me because i will run out of gear.
I think you mis interupted what i meant when i made my statement.
I do hear what you're saying, and I know guys who run 1/8ths who gear the **** out of their cars because they want it all down in half of what most of us are used to. Some of the parking-lot autocross guys like 'em steeper as well. However, I'm running a T-56 in a mostly street car, I'm not going to be too interested spending the money for the tenth or two I'll get out of it, especially when I'm not switching off of street radials - the bigger of the two weaknesses. I have two reasons for that - one, I don't know about you, but a 3" full exhaust off of headers is hell to listen to at 3000rpm on the highway after an hour, and two, I'm no big fan of that weak-as-hell stocker rear. I'd rather keep the tires a little more slippery to kill the torque-shock when it hooks up, and keep my hearing.
As for all the discussion about the new LS cars being so fat - so much the better for those of us who swap these engines into older chassis - a lot of the impy's and wallowing SUV's are donating their power to old school rides.
Yea i have owned a few LT1s auto and 6spd and have owned a few ls1s all 6speeds and have driven the ls2 in a vette, ls3 in new camaro, and ls7 in the C6z06 and currently own a ls2 in my TBSS. And The Trans am i already posted in this thread had 4.56s in it and hooked like a **** and did 1.5 60's all day long at the track. I have yet to own anything with less than 4.10s (owned a bunch of mustangs) even mt TBSS has 4.11s in the front AND rear.
They said that the ta had him off the line and they reeled him in.. Now if he has 3.42s he would not be losing any gear and be continuing to climb in speed and not go through rpm as fast making it a highway gear, thus why turbo cars has 3.42s or less so they have all top end meaning its not for drag racing. 3.73s sometimes, but mostly steeper are made for acceleration not top end and thats why most dig racing cars have those gears. I said nothing about smoking the tires off or anything like that. But if you have 3.42s in your LSx car and i have the 4.56s in that TA i posted pics of i will 60' you all day long, but if the race goes on for a long time, you will catch me because i will run out of gear.
I think you mis interupted what i meant when i made my statement.
As for all the discussion about the new LS cars being so fat - so much the better for those of us who swap these engines into older chassis - a lot of the impy's and wallowing SUV's are donating their power to old school rides.
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From: Alabama
New GM 6.0L Cast-Iron Block
that is what my next rod will have, thinking about throwing one in an early 90s 3rd gen... they make some great drag cars, were just slow as **** from the factory...
that is what my next rod will have, thinking about throwing one in an early 90s 3rd gen... they make some great drag cars, were just slow as **** from the factory...
So....heads, cams, rods etc and nitrous are the considered bolts ons on you ls1 lovers...yea they could be cheap since they have so many companies that makes em but boy its sounds like alot more work than putting a BOLT ON turbo kit on an lsj.
And i would say a cam install is easier than a turbo install. Given the turbo will give an ecotec 400whp or more, and the cam will give the LSx 400whp or more, but the cam is easier, and only $350 (under $1k for a full package of top end stuff and the cam) and the turbo kit is much more than that. Heads are bolt on... literally take off the manifold/headers, unbolt factory heads, bolt in new heads, and reinstall intake manifold... No harder to install than any other bolt on part.
A bolt on turbo kit however, involved bolting on many parts.. new intake manifold, exhaust manifold, turbo, downpipe, likely an exhaust, intake, intercooler, charge piping, etc.
And to include nitrous in that list as if you need nitrous in addition to heads/cam is ridiculous.
If you include nitrous, you can make a 500whp motor with no other mods...
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From: Carlsbad, CA
The new motor is supposed to have a VVT setup too... thats gonna be interesting on a OHV motor if they stay with 2 valve setup like the LS is now. I dunno as freakish as the new thing sounds with 450hp out of 5.5 liters, I am not sure I like the DI aspect of it after having the LNF. Guess we will have to see.
I have never had a LS motor apart so I didn't know that... learn something new everyday. The last thing I had apart was a 4 bolt 350 in my 55 chevy apache.
The new motor is supposed to have a VVT setup too... thats gonna be interesting on a OHV motor if they stay with 2 valve setup like the LS is now. I dunno as freakish as the new thing sounds with 450hp out of 5.5 liters, I am not sure I like the DI aspect of it after having the LNF. Guess we will have to see.
The new motor is supposed to have a VVT setup too... thats gonna be interesting on a OHV motor if they stay with 2 valve setup like the LS is now. I dunno as freakish as the new thing sounds with 450hp out of 5.5 liters, I am not sure I like the DI aspect of it after having the LNF. Guess we will have to see.
I am curious how they're going to have the VVT setup as well
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From: Alabama
you can throw nitrous on a stock LS1, run it safely, and run at least a 100shot
$900 for 400whp
now if throw in a cam swap/bolt-ons, for $3000 you have an engine that is 520whp that is more street friendly than a turbo LSJ
if you want to BUILD the engine, putting a $5000 into a Ls1 build vs $5000 into a LSJ build, the LSJ might trap in the 1/4 what the LS1 does in 660', lol
for every one hacked up shop car Cobalt out there putting down "impressive" numbers, there are 20 shops with LS series vehicles does the same thing, only faster
$900 for 400whp
now if throw in a cam swap/bolt-ons, for $3000 you have an engine that is 520whp that is more street friendly than a turbo LSJ
if you want to BUILD the engine, putting a $5000 into a Ls1 build vs $5000 into a LSJ build, the LSJ might trap in the 1/4 what the LS1 does in 660', lol
for every one hacked up shop car Cobalt out there putting down "impressive" numbers, there are 20 shops with LS series vehicles does the same thing, only faster
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Joined: 05-05-11
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From: Myrtle Beach, SC
[QUOTE=SSSnoop;5757451][QUOTE=frankiess;5756653]
Yea. The gear depends on the rear tire you run ( we run a drag radial at ALL times) and it had a moser 12bolt in it. We went through 4 stock 10bolts. They are junk except with an auto, which can last alil longer. Seen a lot of them run into the 10s with an auto.
Not to go back to far, but really - have you driven a 6 speed LT1/LS1?!?!? You do not any steeper gears to get off the line with a manual fourth gen with any decent mods done - you can already practically throw out 1st gear for anything but taking off slow on a steep hill with it, the damn things so steep. 3.73's -maybe, but nothing harsher than that, unless you got stock in a tire company. If I'm feeling it, I can kick off the ASR and roast 'em clear through the first two gears, and that's with that "wienie" of an LT1/heads/cam/full exhaust. Gearing is not an issue. Sounds like maybe he should have installed those two rear spark plugs before he ran you!
I do hear what you're saying, and I know guys who run 1/8ths who gear the **** out of their cars because they want it all down in half of what most of us are used to. Some of the parking-lot autocross guys like 'em steeper as well. However, I'm running a T-56 in a mostly street car, I'm not going to be too interested spending the money for the tenth or two I'll get out of it, especially when I'm not switching off of street radials - the bigger of the two weaknesses. I have two reasons for that - one, I don't know about you, but a 3" full exhaust off of headers is hell to listen to at 3000rpm on the highway after an hour, and two, I'm no big fan of that weak-as-hell stocker rear. I'd rather keep the tires a little more slippery to kill the torque-shock when it hooks up, and keep my hearing.
As for all the discussion about the new LS cars being so fat - so much the better for those of us who swap these engines into older chassis - a lot of the impy's and wallowing SUV's are donating their power to old school rides.
I do hear what you're saying, and I know guys who run 1/8ths who gear the **** out of their cars because they want it all down in half of what most of us are used to. Some of the parking-lot autocross guys like 'em steeper as well. However, I'm running a T-56 in a mostly street car, I'm not going to be too interested spending the money for the tenth or two I'll get out of it, especially when I'm not switching off of street radials - the bigger of the two weaknesses. I have two reasons for that - one, I don't know about you, but a 3" full exhaust off of headers is hell to listen to at 3000rpm on the highway after an hour, and two, I'm no big fan of that weak-as-hell stocker rear. I'd rather keep the tires a little more slippery to kill the torque-shock when it hooks up, and keep my hearing.
As for all the discussion about the new LS cars being so fat - so much the better for those of us who swap these engines into older chassis - a lot of the impy's and wallowing SUV's are donating their power to old school rides.
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Joined: 05-05-11
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From: Myrtle Beach, SC
you can throw nitrous on a stock LS1, run it safely, and run at least a 125shot
$900 for 400whp
now if throw in a cam swap/bolt-ons, for $1500(install yourself) you have an engine that is 520whp that is more street friendly than a turbo LSJ
if you want to BUILD the engine, putting a $5000 into a Ls1 build vs $5000 into a LSJ build, the LSJ might trap in the 1/4 what the LS1 does in 660', lol
for every one hacked up shop car Cobalt out there putting down "impressive" numbers, there are 20 shops with LS series vehicles does the same thing, only faster With ac and full weight
$900 for 400whp
now if throw in a cam swap/bolt-ons, for $1500(install yourself) you have an engine that is 520whp that is more street friendly than a turbo LSJ
if you want to BUILD the engine, putting a $5000 into a Ls1 build vs $5000 into a LSJ build, the LSJ might trap in the 1/4 what the LS1 does in 660', lol
for every one hacked up shop car Cobalt out there putting down "impressive" numbers, there are 20 shops with LS series vehicles does the same thing, only faster With ac and full weight
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Joined: 01-19-10
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From: North Carolina
LS motors have a LOT more support than, well, just about any other motor in existence (slowly passing the gen I SBC by) I dont think it will be long until new high pressure fuel pumps and larger DI injectors are made for the new DI 5.5. Maybe a year, possibly two
I am curious how they're going to have the VVT setup as well
I am curious how they're going to have the VVT setup as well
And hey - don't kill this thread - there's a lot of good V8 stuff going on!
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From: Alabama
well I was using conservative numbers to make it somewhat close
I know more than one person that has put a 150 shot on a STOCK LS series V8(Ls1, Ls2, and Ls3s)
and if I'd said "a $2000 LS1 build will put bus lengths on your $5000 LSJ build" well, that'd just been overkill
like I said, my brother has $800 in his transmission build(including the price of the stall), about $800 worth of bolt-ons, about $900 in his cam setup, and $700 in his nitrous setup, and he got his tune for free(well did some electrical work for the guy as a trade)... $3200, plus another another $400 in some slicks... but less than $4000 in the entire build, and we're in Bama... i'd be willing to pay the Guy from Miami's gas to Montgomery to come a 40 pull for $500 or so.... and if he doesn't lose by more than 5 cars, he wins the race... and he won't even be on slicks for this race so you can negate that $400, a less than $3500 build, and I bet he loses by bus lengths, not a little bit.... an ass whooping... his TA put down 470whp on the spray BEFORE the cam, on the stock catback and without the LS6 intake... now given, he didn't build his car to race from a roll and its hell out the hole, but I still bet he wins Jonathans race... he'd dominate "his" race from a dig... that wouldn't even be worth the gas burnt up for the run, lol.. and though he has a stout as **** 4l60e transmission, his stock transmission last to 120k after having the **** ran out of it for 80,000 miles.... several bottles of nitrous, countless trips to the track, even more nights of street racing... it was a warrior and went it finally went instead of having a stock one put back in it, he had one of the best transmission builders in the Southeast build him a monster... so there will still be several of these cars on the road making this power with their stock transmission(just waiting on it to go though)... the difference is you can have a 4l60e built to be a beast for less than $1500(he is good friends with the guy who built his and got his done for pretty much cost of parts)... get a price on getting a transmission beefed up for your Cobalt, lol
since LS1s are slow, that shouldn't be a problem for him
don't give me **** about it being cammed/nitrous/built 4l60e, etc... the cost vs cost/performance vs performance ratio of the two has been my argument the whole time, I bet he has LESS money in his build than you do in yours and i bet he paid LESS for his car in 2004($13k with 42k miles on it) than you did for your LSJ... the fact his is still a strong runner over 10 years after it rolled off the lot is not my fault
I know more than one person that has put a 150 shot on a STOCK LS series V8(Ls1, Ls2, and Ls3s)
and if I'd said "a $2000 LS1 build will put bus lengths on your $5000 LSJ build" well, that'd just been overkill
like I said, my brother has $800 in his transmission build(including the price of the stall), about $800 worth of bolt-ons, about $900 in his cam setup, and $700 in his nitrous setup, and he got his tune for free(well did some electrical work for the guy as a trade)... $3200, plus another another $400 in some slicks... but less than $4000 in the entire build, and we're in Bama... i'd be willing to pay the Guy from Miami's gas to Montgomery to come a 40 pull for $500 or so.... and if he doesn't lose by more than 5 cars, he wins the race... and he won't even be on slicks for this race so you can negate that $400, a less than $3500 build, and I bet he loses by bus lengths, not a little bit.... an ass whooping... his TA put down 470whp on the spray BEFORE the cam, on the stock catback and without the LS6 intake... now given, he didn't build his car to race from a roll and its hell out the hole, but I still bet he wins Jonathans race... he'd dominate "his" race from a dig... that wouldn't even be worth the gas burnt up for the run, lol.. and though he has a stout as **** 4l60e transmission, his stock transmission last to 120k after having the **** ran out of it for 80,000 miles.... several bottles of nitrous, countless trips to the track, even more nights of street racing... it was a warrior and went it finally went instead of having a stock one put back in it, he had one of the best transmission builders in the Southeast build him a monster... so there will still be several of these cars on the road making this power with their stock transmission(just waiting on it to go though)... the difference is you can have a 4l60e built to be a beast for less than $1500(he is good friends with the guy who built his and got his done for pretty much cost of parts)... get a price on getting a transmission beefed up for your Cobalt, lol
since LS1s are slow, that shouldn't be a problem for him
don't give me **** about it being cammed/nitrous/built 4l60e, etc... the cost vs cost/performance vs performance ratio of the two has been my argument the whole time, I bet he has LESS money in his build than you do in yours and i bet he paid LESS for his car in 2004($13k with 42k miles on it) than you did for your LSJ... the fact his is still a strong runner over 10 years after it rolled off the lot is not my fault
Last edited by 08inBama; May 6, 2011 at 11:40 PM.
yeah a 420whp LS1(cam only) doesn't need the damn bottle to beat most of us here... besides, a 10lb bottle will easily make it a weekend and its only $35 to get it filled($3.50/lb here)... which is well worth the cost for being able to have an extra 125-150whp whenever you want it.... if you really have a nitrous addition, buy two or three bottles, most guys that run nitrous have a couple of bottles, so its not going to help you if they lose pressure, especially at the track, someone is just about always willing to let a nitrous guy borrow a bottle if they are out.... or there are usually means to get one filled
its hard to argue with $900 for 150whp, you can make a good argument, but when you get beat by 37 bus lengths, no one really ******* cares... last time I checked all nitrous is, is forced induction... guess what, it just does a better job than a supercharger or turbo for a lot less money... a lot of cars won't hold nitrous, and that is why it has a bad rep, and/or a lot of people just flat out don't know how to spray a car... however, the LS1 block hates boost but it absolutely loves the juice, a 125shot is a SAFE shot, a 150 shot is a COMMON shot, people have gone 175hp on an almost stock LS1.... my brother runs a 150 and has had NO problems for almost 60,000 miles and SEVERAL bottles, he also got his entire kit including window switch, etc. for $700 shipped off of LS1tech used, its a NX Express wet system, even new its around $1000 and you CAN buy a kit cheaper, but I would advise running a window switch, getting a bottle heater, purge system, etc. for safety and to keep your bottle from freezing up
if you won't a boosted LSx, build an iron Block 6.0L
if you want a bottle fed car, any of the aluminum blocks love it
its hard to argue with $900 for 150whp, you can make a good argument, but when you get beat by 37 bus lengths, no one really ******* cares... last time I checked all nitrous is, is forced induction... guess what, it just does a better job than a supercharger or turbo for a lot less money... a lot of cars won't hold nitrous, and that is why it has a bad rep, and/or a lot of people just flat out don't know how to spray a car... however, the LS1 block hates boost but it absolutely loves the juice, a 125shot is a SAFE shot, a 150 shot is a COMMON shot, people have gone 175hp on an almost stock LS1.... my brother runs a 150 and has had NO problems for almost 60,000 miles and SEVERAL bottles, he also got his entire kit including window switch, etc. for $700 shipped off of LS1tech used, its a NX Express wet system, even new its around $1000 and you CAN buy a kit cheaper, but I would advise running a window switch, getting a bottle heater, purge system, etc. for safety and to keep your bottle from freezing up
if you won't a boosted LSx, build an iron Block 6.0L
if you want a bottle fed car, any of the aluminum blocks love it
#2, I did, as have others on this board. I dont know anyone who sold their LS to get an ecotec, but i know plenty who sold their ecotec to get an LS (though a lot of LS guys have an ecotec in their daily driver
)#3, i love both motors a LOT, but at the end of the day, no replacement for displacement. GM doesnt make anything quite as great as their SBCs