Not on the SS it doesn't.

 

I was going to get a srt-4 but i LOVE the style of the cobalt. it was down to mustang gt, cobalt ss/sc, or a srt-4. Im happy with my choice

 

ooooh, i wanna know too!

I havent lost to any cobalts, but i also havent raced very many. I know a handful that could probably keep up with me pretty well.

I've been trying to lighten up a thread on the SRTforums today. Cobalt threads pop up like warts all the time there, and most of those guys drink a strong diet of hateorade. Many are just mis-informed and overall ignorant.

 

I wont lie...im stock and I had an SRT pullin on me on the highway...after I sped up first...not sure what his mods were, if any, but def. made up the ground i had taken away...

 

my ss is pullin some decent power now, just a few more things to work on to get my full potential... oh yeah check my pics for the monte.... that sucker ran a 9.56 @ 150mph... and for sale too... minus the nitrous,,, (hmmm where'd that go?)

 

oh yeah pics of the monte are on motortopia ... under black06g85

 

"New .60 over 350 engine @500 hp at crank with about 50-60 miles on it, new custom built th350 with manual valve body and hurst shifter (quarter stick). custom center console autometer gauges (oil pressure, fuel pressure, tach w/low oil pressure warning light, amp meter, voltage meter, water temp) w/ extra set of gm performance white face gauges. three sets of rims and tires new Holley 850 cfm double pumper had it honed, re-jetted, and changed to 50cc squirters, torqer II intake manifold w/ spare Holley Strip Dominator, Comp Cams extreme energy HE284 (507/510 lift) new crane hydraulic lifters, Crane Magnum roller tip rockers w/ 1.52 ratio , spare set of harlen sharpe 1.6 roller rockers with stud girdle, (have to change rocker studs to 3/8), new edlebrock fuel pump. Posi rear w/ 4:10 gears, new brake lines , powerslot rotors and ceramic pads. Motor is a 4-bolt main 350 bored 60 over w/l82 vette crank and rods and kieth black pistons, ported L-82 heads with 2.02 / 1.60 valves. body has @87,000 miles on it (no speedo since tranny was installed, so no odometer). full 3" exhaust from torque tech in Altanta, GA. with flow master 2 chamber mufflers, G-Force tranny crossmember, 15/8 long tube headers, Haayes lightweight SFI fly wheel 168 tooth, high torque miny starter, Hypertech 50,000 volt coil and 8.5mm plug wires, gel battery, line locks"

Heh...looks to be a mean ass setup

 

Very mean indeed.

 

Here's one: Stock SS/SC +CAI vs. Stage 1 SRT-4 from dig. SS/SC from start to end of second, then SRT the rest of the way. Both very similar digs on each of the 3 races.

 

hey I don't race but I do believe that the Cobalts 2nd to 3rd gear is pretty hot the way it just takes off considering I have had the SRT, the SRT you have to down shift in them gears just to get the pick up. But either way I still love both cars. I have the best of both worlds! lol

 

Hey mom....you only downshift because you dont know how to drive.

 

watch it, I just never beat the ***** off it like you do!

 

The SRT is faster, the hp/weight, magazines, dynos, the numbers are all there, even the timeslips. Ive owned a Redline and an SRT4. I even have a video on this board of my SRT4 racing a Cobalt with a K&N and the gets walked bad. BTW Im also holding the camera and racing at the same time(I know someone is going to same thats not smart). It's ok though some Cobalt SS guys claim they smoke LS1's all day with their intake and have "hung" with an 05 m3. Get that garbage out of here, great car and all, but damn stop being rediculous. HAHAHA

 

Heh....

drive my car on high boost daddy-o, and hold a video camera with the other hand...

 

I think if I put some 15 ft wings and a few furry creatures in the back seat, I could probably fly. But to answer your challange I could drive that pile with my feet.

On a side note, when the hell are you going to get that thing to the ****** track with that new tune and a sealevel track at that. Please do it, I think you got a 10.8 in ya.

 

+2

 

[QUOTE=adam0416]Specifically..."But without horsepower, torque is just a feeling you get."

Without torque, you get no horsepower.

 

[QUOTE=cawpin]I didn't think that I would have to be this specific. I realize torque is important, but there's a point where it needs to stop. It's good to have lots of torque in RWD cars, but you have to be a bit more careful in a FWD car. However, to some extent I can argue against and with your claim. Explain how the infamous B16 can produce right at 400whp but with only 190ft/tq? Sure that engine revs respectably high, anywhere from 8500-9500 with proper mods, but that doesn't change the fact that it can produce more than twice the power output than torque. Also, in a 2500lb car, that engine could make it run low 11's high 10's with the right suspension set-up. In a CRX (2000lb w/ driver) your looking at best sub 10's. However, I agree to some extent that torque makes horsepower, actually it supports horsepower. More torque than HP means you'll reach max power sooner, but less power in the highest RPM. An engine that makes way more HP than TQ obviously is very peaky, meaning all the power and torque is shifted to the top of the RPM ban, much like Honda's, Acura's, etc. Chevy is known to "balance" the two, meaning is power will almost have a flatlined power curve. This means that you'll reach max power relatively early in the RPM's while retaining it throughout...this is very effective for street hotrods. As they can get moving quickly yet hold the power throughout the power curve. Have you ever looked at an SRT's dyno? Notice the power peaks very soon. This is because there is more torque than power. Notice SS/SC's dyno sheets...they almost flatline from the factory. After Stage 2 upgrade, they are alittle more "peaky", just like I would expect. Torque is what gives you that terrible wheel hop and smoking tires. Yes, that's torque slowing you down on your 60' times.

 

37 earmuffs

 

It's not the torque slowing down teh car so much as the foot controlling the torque. Suspension mods and better tires can make the full use of that low end torque...

 

exactly... too bad shitty mud and snows don't help at the track.

 

[QUOTE=adam0416]No, it doesn't change it. It explains itself. 8500-9500 RPM is not nearly useful on a street driven car. A racecar, yes. Past 5252 RPM your torque is going down relative to horsepower. they are equal at that point. I wasn't saying horsepower can't make up for torque up high. I was just stating a fact. Without torque there is no horsepower.

 

LMAO TOM! You put my sentence in your sig hahaha.

BTW I eat skittles for breakfast! YU<M

 

[QUOTE=cawpin]Ok, maybe I've misunderstood you. Ok, for horsepower to exist, there has to be torque. My point is that you do not need all that torque to make the car fast. If drag racing is your cup of tea --> in a FWD, I would advise you to stay away from the torque. 250wtq in a Cobalt is sufficient enough to get a VERY good launch in a Cobalt without KILLING the tires. Once you get up to speed the wheel hop will be minimal. However, making 300+ ft/lb tq would begin to slow you down a bit OUT OF THE WHOLE, which is what we're talking about here. The more torque you have, the more lift your car has, and the more weight shifted to the back. What do you think happens when all but a few hundred pounds of the cars total weight is sitting on the back tires, NOT the front? All BUT the weight of the engine will be gone from the front tires, forbidding the tires to ever have decent traction. It's not like RWD cars, you can't just making a 1000 ft/lb torq in a FWD car and expect to hook up..it's not going to happen. AND since you mentioned "street" cars..we'll have to assume that an ordinary Balt is not going to have 14k springs in the back w/ a wheelie bar. We'll assume that is not going to be found on a street car, and since you don't have any reinforcement on the rear side to help to car's weight from shifting..you'll just burn the tires through the first 35ft of the track, and you'll bark tires through 2nd and 3rd, which will furthermore HURT your times, especially if the race is close. At this time you've lost a half a second. So if you want buttloads of torque..maybe you should take the car to Pheonix during the Summer months when the asphault is "sticky" and try to run then. You'll have your best times there despite the 105 degree weather because you'll actually hook up. Torque in a FWD is good for keeping up with bikes in a roll on, not drag racing other RWD cars. If I had the time and money, I would TEST my theory and prove to you that it's right. Which by the way, my theory is not MINE, it's actually the laws of Physics. Torque in FWD cars makes the coefficient of friction go down, which is not good.

 

Excuse me CAWPIN, I figured you were one of those, "torque is better than horsepower" type of guys. Sorry for the not so brief response. I apologize. For those who didn't take physics..horsepower performs work, torque does not. Torque can make the work for the horsepower easier in the case of an automobile, but it's not the torque that ACTUALLY slows a car down, it just prohibits a FWD car from hooking up, which in most cases can lose the race.