Hell yes! Lower compression + more boost!

 

oh, I didn't know you were getting rid of the eaton

in that case

if u were keeping the eaton I was wondering why because u really can't throw anymore boost at it...

 

Dang That Was A Good Race Glad To See That You Spanked On The Srt Sorry Bout Your Car

 

hmm getting busted for doing overtwice the speed limit , or blown motor

hard call as to which would be funnier

 

i dont think blowing a motor is funny but getting arrested for going twice the speed limit would have been

how much would all those parts cost ?? like the valves and springs , cams , nuetral balance shafts ????

 

Current prices from JBP

Valves:
-Intake $305.35
-Exhaust $305.35
Springs $546.88
-Spring seat locator $121.04
-Retainers $450.08
Wiseco 8.5:1 ceramic coated pistons $960.26

Current prices from Crate Engine Depot:

Neutral balance shafts $396.80
Intake cam blank $79.36
Exhaust cam blank $79.36
Adjustable cam gears $350.00
Piston ring kit 4x $64.14 = $256.56

Current prices from Cobalt Performance Parts:

Cometice head gasket $79.99
ARP head studs $130.99

Unknowns:
Head porting $????
Others? $????

Grand total of known prices = $4062.02 + shipping + labor = OUCH!!!!!!

 

DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMN , but if he switches to diamond cerramic coated pistons those are cheaper yet they only come in stock compression or higher

isnt he still on the stock clutch lol lol lol lol

 

Damn it, whats with all you people wanting your boost to go up with a roots supercharger?! Doesn't everyone realize that the lower your boost is with a certain size pulley, the more power you are making?

Look at it like this ok. Say with a 2.6" pulley you are moving about 400cfm of air at 7k rpms. You can figure about how much air it would be moving at varies points from there, but you have to take into account ineffectiveness caused from heat and higher rpms. So at 3.5k rpms, its not moving 200cfm of air, but most likely closer to ~220 to 240.

Now your engine sucks up as much of that air as it can. However, there is far more air coming in then the engine can use, so some gets left behind during each rpm. Those fractional amounts build up within the head, compressing to higher psi as more and more is left behind. However, the compression isn't all bad since it makes the air denser, thous burning more air/fuel and getting more power. However, as the compression and SC rpm raises you run into more and power decreases. Heat and parasitic drag are two of the largest.

Now I'm sure people will wonder why their boost shoots up fast then mostly stabilizes. Simple, once the compression of the air going into your engine (your 'Boost') is up to a point where it allows most of the air coming in to be used it will stabilize.

Now lets take someone (call him Joe) who gets a bunch of work done to help his engine flow really well. Him and his buddy (call him Bob) both have 2.6 pulleys, 3" exhaust, bigger heat exchangers, etc (same build, except for Joe's additional flow work). Joe has his boost max out at ~17psi, while Bob has his hit ~19.5psi. Most people would assume that Bob is making more power, but Joe actually is.

Remember, both of their engines are getting the same total airflow into them. That means that Joe's engine is using air fast enough that it stabilizes at a lower psi. So Joe uses more air/fuel through most of his power curve, with Bob only catching up later. Joe also will have cooler air temps and can run more aggressive timing. Plus there will be less stress on Joe's engine due to lower PSI in his manifold.

Of course, none of this really applies to a turbo or a twinscrew, since they compress the air before feeding it to the engine, instead of in the engine's manifold. Just remember though, with a roots type, the lowest possible PSI at a given airflow will net you the most power.

 

then why would people dyno higher with a 2.6 than a 2.7 ,

 

I'm gonna have a different supercharger that flows more air, and makes MUCH more boost, as well as an extremly high flowing engine. I will prolly make in the high 20s to low 30s in boost even though the blower is rated at 35 psi. Those parts are a **** load of money and I didn't realize how much ****** money that **** is! Not sure how I'll pay for it....

 

damn yeah rebuilding isnt cheap good luck hope everything works out , buy a 400 beater and drive it for 4 months

 

dude i want your car!!!! that freaking thing sounds sexy!!! i just showed the kids in my class your video of the fly-bys and they were like HOLY ****!!!!! they couldnt believe me when i told it was a cobalt lol, it was so dam loud!!

 

The WRX upgraded exhuast is what I am going to look for in my swap Cam since it is turboed and all I called and they are shipping it tomorrow! So it should be here in the next week or so Woo Hoo!!

 

I refuse to let you kill another thread Jess, the thread killing will stop in time!

 

You forgot the new clutch and flywheel.
Latest information seems to be that the rods arent as good as once was thought. So maybe a new set of rods? Do you really want to spend the money listed above and not KNOW that the other parts of the motor can handle the power ?
All the little bits and pieces to do the engine. valve cover gasket, rtv (or whatever gm uses as gasket maker), and any other misc seals and fluids.

As I told Cam on the phone hes probably looking at 6-8k with parts and labor to do a full true quality motor build.
I also told him that this is all contingent on the fact that if it did break rings or something happened down below there is no cylinder wall damage. Sleeves are NOT cheap.

Not trying to bum you out Cam... Just need to know what youre getting into... Rose colored glasses dont help.

BTW When do you want to do a leak down ?

 

I'm just gonna rip it open and see what happened. Found replacement parts, so I'm just gonna get it back on the road ASAP

 

Keep us informed. I wanna know what will pop first, since it looks like im going in a similar direction with my car soon

 

interested aswell....
sorry about yer luck, always been a fan of your car, its a beast, good luck!

 

I said lower boost with the same size pulley. A 2.6 pulley will flow more air than a 2.7, so of course it will dyno higher. That will continue with smaller size pulleys until you go past the roots superchargers zone of performance or over rev it. The M62 is pretty good to about 18.5psi and 16k rpms. Past that you will see rapidly diminishing returns.

____________

Blown, your going to a Twin Screw design, which compresses the air internally before moving it into the engine. Totally different style, the stuff I was saying applies to Roots type, not Twin Screw. Though you still want to keep your psi as low as you can for the airflow your after.

 

Good post InfinityzeN. Not to many people realize that.

ExHondaMan, I agree about the rods. I heard that they are not any stronger than the pistons. JBP has a set of rods for the LSJ (the only ones that I have ever seen) that are rated to "700~750 hp". $860.55. We might be tearing the motor down this weekend. I'll give you a call and let you know for sure. You can come hang out with us and use your glorious UTI and Mercedes training to laugh at us screwing it up more.

Yes we will be taking lots of pics.

 

^^^LMAO^^^

 

nice vid man sorry about the balt.

 

You should totally come to the tear down Ex, atleast I'll have someone extra to harass
and bounce ideas off of for my swap

LOL!

 

head porting is gonna cost you at least $1200 minumum for a good CNC job, Cam gears are not for the LSJ motor, and whats this now with the stock rods..
damnit thats another almost G I gotta drop now... damn gm.

 

Why aren't the adjustable cam gears for the LSJ? I have set and they seem to fit fine.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...t=48693&page=2
As far as the rods go, don't be an idiot like me, either buy your rods and pistons together or buy the rods first. It will save you frustration.