Drivetrain Transmission, LSD, Clutch, Driveline, Axles...

How Long???

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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 04:34 PM
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From: Hubert NC
How Long???

Well, since I put in the Ingalls Stiffy I've noticed clutch slippage from 1st to 2nd and I was wondering how long before the clutch was unusable? And then for a daily driver is a Spec 3+ the best choice? I need a good clutch but still bearable for daily driving.
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 05:24 PM
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From: Hubert NC
BUMP

Anyone???
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 05:40 PM
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The dampener doesnt cause the clutch to go out, just to clearify for everyone else. It is just that you most likely drive the car harder.

The best clutch out there IMO is the SPEC stage 2+ or stage 3+

Both would work fine on the street. We have them at www.TurboTechRacing.com
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 06:05 PM
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From: Charles Town, WV
I have the SPEC stage 2 in mine. I rarely run the car hard but when i do it graps like a champ.
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Old Aug 23, 2006 | 06:13 PM
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From: Hubert NC
Originally Posted by TurboTechRacing
The dampener doesnt cause the clutch to go out, just to clearify for everyone else. It is just that you most likely drive the car harder.

The best clutch out there IMO is the SPEC stage 2+ or stage 3+

Both would work fine on the street. We have them at www.TurboTechRacing.com
Just to clarify I never said it did. I just said since I put it on I have slippage, and come on, honestly, do you really think I would drive the car hard?

Viagra Racing!!!
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 04:33 PM
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From: Hubert NC
Update:

I drove an hour to get to a stealership outside of the local influence and this is what I got. The mechanic confirmed that I do have a high enough IQ to know my clutch was slipping. He then checked the tread on my tires and told me it looked like abuse and probably wouldn't be covered. But they're going to run it up through some sort of Rep or something who makes these decision, apparenty they aren't allowed to make the decision on hand. In further conversation the mechanic looked me in the face and told me the clutches weren't strong enough for the cars. I should know if they will warranty anything by tomorrow. So I then posed a hypothetical if the labor is covered can I bring a better clutch than the stock one and I got some around the bush warranty voiding talk. At this point the mechanic is just standing there taking in the conversation between me and some dude behind the counter, on the computer. He wasn't the service manager, I'm not sure what he was other than an employee so I will refer to him as counter dude. The counter dude told me there's a STRONG chance an aftermarket clutch would void my warranty. I asked how and all I could get was "if you put that clutch on and 6 months down the road you have transmission problems you will probably have a voided warranty" I then told him he was wrong but didn't go into the Magnusson Moss act because I want that one to be a suprise if I really have to fight over my tranny. Anyhow I asked for a quote on the labor and he booked it at something like $1109 for just labor. I await their decision and if they say it's not covered I got another quote for labor and it was much better, $600. He wasn't rude which is quite a pleasant suprise and I can't be mad at this stealership.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:17 PM
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From: Hubert NC
Another Update: Eastern NC pay attention

Well the stealership wanted to do some kind of crack deal that would make an Enron exec shudder so I'm going else where. I have an apointment for September 11th at Jeff's auto in Jacksonville to have my clutch pulled and a Clutch Masters FX 400 6 puck installed. The total cost for labor is $600. This is much lower than the $1108 the stealership wanted to charge, and Jeff will actually put on the CM FX 400 and not insist on the same weak GM clutch. I'll let everyone know how it actually goes, service and all that when I get my car back. I think Jeff will actually be a good place to take our cars when the stealership tells us to go pound sand.
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