2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

StevesBlack06 LSJ build (round 2)

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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 05:04 PM
  #26  
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nice parts list, good luck with the build!
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 02:29 AM
  #27  
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Nice build. That orange tank stands out :p I'm hoping to build my engine after income tax..
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 02:49 AM
  #28  
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were u able to pull the engine out the front?
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 03:02 AM
  #29  
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 03:05 AM
  #30  
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BAD NEWS! The head gasket blew on me during the initial fire up! I reused my Cometic from last year because there was nothing wrong with it and i have heard of them being re used. **** was i wrong. It blew. everything should be fine but i gotta tear it down again and take the head off so it can dry out. The machine work for the block was a bit pricey. I think it was like 750 for the machine work and i paid like 550 for the sleeves. I dont have the itemized bill in front of me at the moment. But it is gonna be rad as hell when i get my new gasket and slap her back together. The ZZP kit would be cool but liek bykryder said... when i started this build it wasnt out yet. The tanks look nice but dont fit so well. escecially the driver side tank... ugh. As for pullin the engine and Re Installing it, i jacked the car up and pulled most everything down from the bottom. When we put it back in we removed the bumper cover and the bumper itself and rolled it right on in and jacked it up into place. It took about an hour to muscle it back in there. This was my first attempt at pullin an engine so it was a learning process. It was tricky tryin to find out where all the sensors went! Thanks to everyone for the comments
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 03:22 AM
  #31  
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how was timing the cams when you removed the head?
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 04:10 AM
  #32  
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the build is looking good man. Best of luck. Mine will be starting around this time next month. And I'll make a trip up to indiana sometime.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 04:21 AM
  #33  
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Damn I dont care how much that clutch costs! I would buy just for the color. Nice build by the way.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 12:28 PM
  #34  
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sub'd
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 01:06 PM
  #35  
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nice work
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 01:17 PM
  #36  
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honestly i would use a stock 2.0 HG if i were you... (about half the cost as well)

i know your cometic was re-used but they have been really taking a dump left and right.

my block is sleeved as well and i had them leave the sleeves sticking up out the block 2 thousands and it promotes a better seal between cyl and head. i blew cometic to pieces the stock HG is holding up grrreat.

just something to think about!
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 02:07 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by hungryhip-ccp
honestly i would use a stock 2.0 HG if i were you... (about half the cost as well)

i know your cometic was re-used but they have been really taking a dump left and right.

my block is sleeved as well and i had them leave the sleeves sticking up out the block 2 thousands and it promotes a better seal between cyl and head. i blew cometic to pieces the stock HG is holding up grrreat.

just something to think about!
interesting...well the machine work is done now. and i already ordered another .45 cometic. well see how this one does and it it fails again maybe ill switch back to a stocker

Originally Posted by elite_Cyborg
how was timing the cams when you removed the head?
its easy when the engine is out of the car, all you gotta do is take the timing cover off the bottom and line up the colored links on the diamond notches on the gears. and make sure the cam angle sensor is set correctly

Last edited by StevesBlack06; Nov 22, 2009 at 02:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 02:26 PM
  #38  
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are you going to pull the engine out again to change the headgasket?
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 02:27 PM
  #39  
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no just pulling the head ouf
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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cometic is good too, i just personally had one fail there are tons of other's who push em to the limits daily without failure. i wouldent worry about it, i would of bought it again but $ was an issue so i went with stock.

Ray Bates was the one who built my block he told me about leaving the sleeves higher than the deck. for the reason that when you get to 400+ on a stock block the sleeves actually start to move on you causing gasket failure. since your sleeved this doesent apply to you.

he said two ways around it,

o ring the block and head, but he said that can seep and is for race engines not DD typically

or sleeve it and raise the sleeves a tad, like we did. better for DD and still good to 6-700hp my goals are just 450.

good luck with your build! gonna be a beast with a turbo or tvs on race gas! cant wait to see some video's!

Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; Nov 22, 2009 at 06:04 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 05:55 PM
  #41  
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tvs + 109 octane for me!
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 07:46 PM
  #42  
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well upon tearing this **** apart i noticed that i have coolant in the bottom of my intake mani and coolant in my intake ports. im not sure exactly why but im guessing it has something to do with the way a i ran my laminova cores. i put up a post about it in 2.0tech so hopefully i wont have to pull the head off. maybe its just an issue with my intake mani/dual pass set up.
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 02:55 PM
  #43  
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whats the update bitch ass steve? and for the op, he did arp head studs so the head has to slide over them, over that of the stockers coming out of the block, and with the jbp header it would be less of a hassle to actually just pull the whole motor out again then try to take the header off in the engine bay, to get the head able to slide over the arp studs. and steve check your end plate gasket you might of pinched it putting the end plate back on or not seated the luminers and there gasket right. jut double check, partner,
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 06:24 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by OneCOLDBIZL272
whats the update bitch ass steve? and for the op, he did arp head studs so the head has to slide over them, over that of the stockers coming out of the block, and with the jbp header it would be less of a hassle to actually just pull the whole motor out again then try to take the header off in the engine bay, to get the head able to slide over the arp studs. and steve check your end plate gasket you might of pinched it putting the end plate back on or not seated the luminers and there gasket right. jut double check, partner,
i got your bitch ass right here... well i just sold the header. im switchin to the ZZP midlength combo. and i just found out that the o rings on each end of the cores and the endplate gasket are over 200bucks. thats with out the cores aswell. and thats with ryans discount at the dealership. i decided to replace the o rings aswell because they were lookin rough. im pissed as hell that they are that much. FML
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 11:53 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by StevesBlack06
i got your bitch ass right here... well i just sold the header. im switchin to the ZZP midlength combo. and i just found out that the o rings on each end of the cores and the endplate gasket are over 200bucks. thats with out the cores aswell. and thats with ryans discount at the dealership. i decided to replace the o rings aswell because they were lookin rough. im pissed as hell that they are that much. FML
Damn dude your taking it in the ass for that, I paid 7.69$ for the endplate ans like 35.90$ for all the luminer rings at a dealer ship they do know you just want the gaskets rings not the luminear to right? That's what I paid threw a friend at a dealer ship!
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 07:08 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by StevesBlack06
i got your bitch ass right here... well i just sold the header. im switchin to the ZZP midlength combo. and i just found out that the o rings on each end of the cores and the endplate gasket are over 200bucks. thats with out the cores aswell. and thats with ryans discount at the dealership. i decided to replace the o rings aswell because they were lookin rough. im pissed as hell that they are that much. FML
fyi, you can buy generic gaskets that will work. I had one that got damaged, so I went to the parts store, it was like a farmer's store called "barmgaars" in nebraksa, and just bought some generic black Orings. Worked great for me.
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 07:19 AM
  #47  
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model number for arp rod bolts please
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 07:34 AM
  #48  
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arp studs

http://www.ottperformance.com/Cobalt...duct_info.html
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 10:00 PM
  #49  
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endplate and laminova seals came in today. OUCH! **** was expensive. my header and DP came too but i wasnt here to sign for it so hopefully itll come friday. hopefully my head gasket comes cuz im ready to get my drive on!
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Old Nov 25, 2009 | 10:40 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by OneCOLDBIZL272
Damn dude your taking it in the ass for that, I paid 7.69$ for the endplate ans like 35.90$ for all the luminer rings at a dealer ship they do know you just want the gaskets rings not the luminear to right? That's what I paid threw a friend at a dealer ship!
For a dual pass? That's cheap! I wonder if my discount would work that well....
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