FF_ace

i think 23-24

BYT*SS*TURBO

iTrader: (6)

^Yea

cubaniche

iTrader: (1)

Update:

I was able to work something out with Bryan at BNR. It seems I will be upgrading to the 2871 and needing new hot side CP with BOV flange and a BOV. Not sure how to run that setup yet since I never researched BOV on the LNF cause I wanted to stay away from them LOL

Anywyas, looks like he will be pulling the 2860 from the site as an upgrade option for now. He really is a cool guy and willing to work with his customers to keep them happy.

BYT*SS*TURBO

iTrader: (6)

Excellent Mike AND Bryan, that's the right move

turbo_chevy_cobalt

I pushing 27-28 psi right now but have to get a new bov. Which is on the way.

turbo_chevy_cobalt

think they can fit the gtx3071 inside the turbine housing?

Sweetsandman

iTrader: (-1)

Do it right and run a recirc setup.

cubaniche

iTrader: (1)

Dunno, didnt ask LOL

Thats exactly what im going to do. Someone recommended that I go with the greddy with recirc fitting. Just dont know what model LOL Do I buy the 50mm version?

SOHC24powa

gt2871 and gt3071 is the same wheel I think. idk about the gtx3071 though.

HHRSSouth

Well, atleast we will have someone now that will be able to compare both models

As far as BOV, I used my non BOV UICP.

I ordered a Tial Q BOV w/ flange (I would get a 6psi spring and use the factory solenoid for the BPV if it was me).

Put the flange where I wanted on my UICP. Which happened to be same location as ZZP but on the opposite side of pipe, I wanted the shortest vaccum routing possible.

I traced ithe BOV flange on the inside with a paint marker, cut it out with a dremel.

Then I sanded it to the metal around the hole so when the BOV was welded it would get a good weld.

Then I took the UICP and BOV to a good aluminum welder, paid $20 bucks, brought it home, masked off the flange and painted it with dupli-color factory Victory RED (Pipe was already powder coated victory read previously). Done

Turned out pretty damn good if I say so myself, maybe one of the Bama peps will chime in, they saw it this last meet.

Or

You can spend a little more money and have it all done for you.

I paid $250 for authentic Tial Q BOV & aluminum flange, $20 for welder, $7 for paint. I already had a dremel and the UICP.

vs. cost of new UICP with flange welded on already + BOV

cubaniche

iTrader: (1)

HAHA! It will be good to have both turbo numbers on the same car. Good info for the community. Bryan is def being really cool about all this.

Im definitely going to use my CP and do what you did by cutting into the pipe and having the flange welded on. The only dif though is I plan to recirculate the vented air back into the intake so I dont have to relocate the MAF. Im just having trouble distinguishing the VTA and recirc BOV and cant find the recirc adapters that are sold for the BOV.

HHRSSouth

Pretty sure Tial has a model that has a recirculation pipe attached permanetly righ toff the BOV already.

Just finisehd up installing my MAF relocate today on the HHR SS, I had to modify the ZZP MAF relocate pipe to line up with my IC. It wasn't a big deal as it was just bending one of the 90's at the end a little more.

The ONLY reason to get a MAF relocate or recirculate your BOV is you get a very very very slight stutter between shifts (rich spike) and when you ride with the cruise control on up and down hills without the relocate or recirculate.

Other then that I have had a BOV with no MAF relocate for over a month and the car ran just fine.
Wife wanted the MAF relocate to be honest for when we go on trips. The stutter thing drives her crazy with cruise on.

If you want a loud BOV do not get a Tial Q its the quitest BOV I have ever heard VTA other then a recirculated one. You would think that big ass Tial Q would be loud, thankfully its quite.

SOHC24powa

tial's QR and Alpha bov's are recirc

BYT*SS*TURBO

iTrader: (6)

You don't need a MAF relocate to run a BOV on the car... Ive done several VTA BOV's without it and they ran just fine. And anything w/recirc is going to be a bit quieter then the normal VTA version.

HHR - your stutter is from the tune not being setup right for a VTA BOV

HHRSSouth

Well it definetly isn't going to be there now, but like I said in the above post, its so slight, unless your drove the car all the time you wouldn't notice it.

I bet none of the Bama peps at the meet Sunday noticed it when riding in the HHR SS.

cubaniche

iTrader: (1)

Awesome!

Thanks for the suggestions guys

FF_ace

I'm running a tial QR on mine love it so far

iboost

iTrader: (16)

I don't have a maf relocate on my vta bov...have been running it for well over a year now

cubaniche

iTrader: (1)

Cool. This one seems to be the easiest option out there. We pull about 15 in/HG right so, what, the 10psi spring right? THats rated at 12 in/HG.
I found the GReddy and the adaptor to make it a recirc but all together would be like 330 lol

Stamina

With little/no load on the engine, I pull -9psi to -10psi, which should roughly translate to -18in/Hg to -20in/Hg. This means that you'd typically want a spring that's just a bit more than that same amount of psi.

Too soft of a spring, and you'll get a boost leak, since the BOV/BPV would vent. Too firm a spring, and you'll risk compressor surge.

The engine vacuum tries to suck open the valve, and the spring counteracts and tries to push the valve closed. You want the valve closed normally, and yet easily opens when additional pressure builds in your charge pipe over what is in your intake manifold, when letting off the throttle or changing gears.

cubaniche

iTrader: (1)

Ah okay. So the 11psi spring then. it corresponds to about 21-22 in/hg lol

Aaaanyways. Once I get this on then Ill dyno again and we can all compare numbers

HHRSSouth

Unless you hook your vaccum source up to the solenoid and vaccum line that was used for the stock BPV

Tial Q 6psi BOV spring here, stays closed at idle and reacts fast as hell.

HHRSSouth

Your gonna hate the turbo flutter you get all to hell with a 11 psi spring. I tried the 11 psi spring and 10 psi spring hooked up to direct vacuum source, with a 1/4" ID line on the intake manifold and it sucked imo.

Drewbroo told me to do the solenoid method and 8 psi spring (because he was having the flutter with the direct manifold method also) and its a night and day difference then hooking it up to the manifold. Waaaay better.

I then went ahead and traded my 11psi spring with Tial for a 6 psi spring to see if it was faster and would work since Drew never tried it and its sweet. Solenoid keeps it closed and vents fast.

cubaniche

iTrader: (1)

Okay cool. So hook it up to the little black box thats on the turbo now that controls the stock BPV. Sounds like this would help fine tuning the larger turbo too.

BYT*SS*TURBO

iTrader: (6)

Thats the wastegate solenoid

The one on top of the intake manifold is for the BPV. If you are running a BOV, I would run it directly to vacuum and remove the BPV solenoid.