First Drive in my new SS Turbo..Ex Racer's Take
Took the car out again this eve...68 Ambient. 21LB-22 consitently.
I can easily get max boost UNDER LOAD..say WOT starting 5th at 60MPH.
I've had multiple track/race cars too. The SS/TC is well sorted from the factory, overall. There are no major deficiencies. You'll have fun with it. There are a few of us that are track regulars. Too bad you're on the wrong coast :P
After all this time I'd have thought more people would know. The stock LNF boost level is dependant on many factors. It consistantly changes to keep the hp/tq levels at 260. Warmer tems it will boost more to get the 260. Cooler temps and lower elevations it will command less boost. etc. Many other factors but there is NO SPECIFIC stock boost #. Please stop saying that "stock boost is...." "Stock boost today at todays temperature where I live today in my car.....is 19lbs right now.....today" is a better answer. LOL Hell, most will likely have varying boost levels just between the moring and the afteroon.
Great. Funny, I was looking to get same add ons as you..more or less. Pedders for sure and GM1. Not going to do any intake or exhaust mods (down pipe) mods though. Maybe the ZZP pipe at most. Under hood RAM intake is BAD and CAI not really beneficial. The STOCK intake is essentially a CAI, most people don't understand this (in particular the * under the hood* crowd).
I saw picks of stock vs mod downpipes (cat in for me in Ca). There are some potential restrictions with the stocker in comparison, but no *big* difference to make me swap. I had a Toyota Camry SC and that car had a HORRIBLE contorted down pipe( Y PIPE for 6 cyl). When I put in a custom straight down pipe (with cat) it really opened up the power big time (with the catback system installed earlier).
Last edited by ronn; Jun 20, 2010 at 01:13 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Yeah, I really wanted something that I could beat on hard for 30 minutes at a time. So far so good. You'll need real track pads and brake lines, but other than that, a the hardcore bar + pedders is just icing on the cake. I'll see how much good the lower control arm bushings do. John Powell, the maker of them, says that they'll help prevent mid-turn camber loss.
I've had multiple people come up to me after a session, bewildered at what the car was, since I'm mostly debadged, and a 4 door.
I've had multiple people come up to me after a session, bewildered at what the car was, since I'm mostly debadged, and a 4 door.
Great. Funny, I was looking to get same add ons as you..more or less. Pedders for sure and GM1. Not going to do any intake or exhaust mods (down pipe) mods though. Maybe the ZZP pipe at most. Under hood RAM intake is BAD and CAI not really beneficial. The STOCK intake is essentially a CAI, most people don't understand this (in particular the * under the hood* crowd).
I saw picks of stock vs mod downpipes (cat in for me in Ca). There are some potential restrictions with the stocker in comparison, but no *big* difference to make me swap. I had a Toyota Camry SC and that car had a HORRIBLE contorted down pipe( Y PIPE for 6 cyl). When I put in a custom straight down pipe (with cat) it really opened up the power big time (with the catback system installed earlier).
I saw picks of stock vs mod downpipes (cat in for me in Ca). There are some potential restrictions with the stocker in comparison, but no *big* difference to make me swap. I had a Toyota Camry SC and that car had a HORRIBLE contorted down pipe( Y PIPE for 6 cyl). When I put in a custom straight down pipe (with cat) it really opened up the power big time (with the catback system installed earlier).

This is the aftermarket equivalent. A ClearImageAutomotive (CIA) catted downpipe.

The downpipe was the single biggest hardware improvement I have ever made to my car in terms of torque, HP, and turbo response.
I must say I disagree about the Short Ram Intake (now that the K&N version is out) being generally bad. With my new K&N SRI, while the car is in motion, I've found that my IAT1 temps are actually oftentimes lower than my stock "CAI" IAT1 temps. I know, I wouldn't have thought this either, but it is what it is.
Tell me that doesn't look restrictive. lol One (of the two) cats are not even aligned to the axis of the pipe... not to mention it's got a pinch in it.

This is the aftermarket equivalent. A ClearImageAutomotive (CIA) catted downpipe.

The downpipe was the single biggest hardware improvement I have ever made to my car in terms of torque, HP, and turbo response.
I must say I disagree about the Short Ram Intake (now that the K&N version is out) being generally bad. With my new K&N SRI, while the car is in motion, I've found that my IAT1 temps are actually oftentimes lower than my stock "CAI" IAT1 temps. I know, I wouldn't have thought this either, but it is what it is.

This is the aftermarket equivalent. A ClearImageAutomotive (CIA) catted downpipe.

The downpipe was the single biggest hardware improvement I have ever made to my car in terms of torque, HP, and turbo response.
I must say I disagree about the Short Ram Intake (now that the K&N version is out) being generally bad. With my new K&N SRI, while the car is in motion, I've found that my IAT1 temps are actually oftentimes lower than my stock "CAI" IAT1 temps. I know, I wouldn't have thought this either, but it is what it is.
This is stock pipe on Camry I was talking about:

This was my pipe...although you can't see it out of the car..it's basically two *straight* pipes flowing from the front and back banks:

As far a Short RAM..can you show me DATA that temps are running better at the MAF sensor than stock? I would be really stunned for sure. Stock sucks OUTSIDE air from within the wheel well..I'm sure you know that.
Last edited by ronn; Jun 20, 2010 at 03:04 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I'm not exactly sure how to gather definitive data, since by the time I'd be able to uninstall one and install the other, the outside temp would have changed, so there's no way to do a definitive back-to-back or simultaneous log on the same car. The only thing I can think of is to compare it to ambient temp (which is the method I've been using), but that thermometer gets stuck at times for some reason, showing obviously wrong temps before randomly "waking up".
I'm also not the only one to see IAT1s unaffected or in some cases better with the K&N SRI when in motion.
hey RONN
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...53#post5034453
and yeah when the car is moving there's iat1's is at ambient temps
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...53#post5034453
and yeah when the car is moving there's iat1's is at ambient temps
Last edited by HB_SS/TC; Jun 20, 2010 at 03:20 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
The K&N SRI comes with a heatshield, but I'm thinking it must be getting air coming in through the grill and the old CAI passage (I left the old ducting in place in case it could help). The filter sits just over the ducting, and the heatshield is shaped/designed to not cover up the passage.
I'm not exactly sure how to gather definitive data, since by the time I'd be able to uninstall one and install the other, the outside temp would have changed, so there's no way to do a definitive back-to-back or simultaneous log on the same car. The only thing I can think of is to compare it to ambient temp (which is the method I've been using), but that thermometer gets stuck at times for some reason, showing obviously wrong temps before randomly "waking up".
I'm also not the only one to see IAT1s unaffected or in some cases better with the K&N SRI when in motion.
I'm not exactly sure how to gather definitive data, since by the time I'd be able to uninstall one and install the other, the outside temp would have changed, so there's no way to do a definitive back-to-back or simultaneous log on the same car. The only thing I can think of is to compare it to ambient temp (which is the method I've been using), but that thermometer gets stuck at times for some reason, showing obviously wrong temps before randomly "waking up".
I'm also not the only one to see IAT1s unaffected or in some cases better with the K&N SRI when in motion.
Hey..I had an Injen Short RAM with heat shield in my previous car...not knocking it. But look at it this way...even when the car's moving, the engine is radiating heat and NO amount of ram air entering the engine bay can cool off the ambient *under the hood* temps enough to equal *virgin* outside air (comming from under the car into the wheel well). Think about it..common sense. However, I think this is more critical with NON Turbo set ups (like my SC) that don't run charge air through an intercooler.
Yeah, I agree that it's more important for a non-intercooled car. For an intercooled car, I'd imagine a good intercooler paired with an intake with the best possible flow would be optimum.
The bottom of the car is sealed with plastic where it's getting that air. The only "fresh" air coming in is through a quarter-sized whole above the fog light. If you've seen the IAT1 logs of the stock intake, you'd see it heats up it's fair share too.
Yeah, I agree that it's more important for a non-intercooled car. For an intercooled car, I'd imagine a good intercooler paired with an intake with the best possible flow would be optimum.
Yeah, I agree that it's more important for a non-intercooled car. For an intercooled car, I'd imagine a good intercooler paired with an intake with the best possible flow would be optimum.
Would you agree that ALL the air comming into the stock intake is from the OUTSIDE?
And conversely, ALL the air comming into the short ram is from UNDER THE HOOD?
The only way you can convince me that the short RAM is equal to the temps of stock set up, is to prove to me that the FRESH air comming in from the outside (above the fog light) is somehow being HEATED UP before it gets sucked into the filer box.
Hmm...don't know about size of fresh air source..does that matter here?
Would you agree that ALL the air comming into the stock intake is from the OUTSIDE?
And conversely, ALL the air comming into the short ram is from UNDER THE HOOD?
The only way you can convince me that the short RAM is equal to the temps of stock set up, is to prove to me that the FRESH air comming in from the outside (above the fog light) is somehow being HEATED UP before it gets sucked into the filer box.
Would you agree that ALL the air comming into the stock intake is from the OUTSIDE?
And conversely, ALL the air comming into the short ram is from UNDER THE HOOD?
The only way you can convince me that the short RAM is equal to the temps of stock set up, is to prove to me that the FRESH air comming in from the outside (above the fog light) is somehow being HEATED UP before it gets sucked into the filer box.
Would you agree that ALL the air coming into the stock intake is from the OUTSIDE?
I'd say most is. There's a flap up by the headlight on that side that helps seal it off from the engine heat. Not sure how good it does though. *shrugs* Heat rises, so I'd hope overall you're getting mostly fresh air. According to IAT1s though, it's still being heated somehow.
And conversely, ALL the air coming into the short ram is from UNDER THE HOOD?
Again, not sure. The filter is right by that stock air passage, but the heatshield is also such that it could allow exposure to non-heated air from by the grill and through the hood slit.
There's no way to prove that fresh air is coming in through either intake solution, but in the end it doesn't matter anyway. What matters at the end of the day is IAT1/IAT2 temps and flow, which have been logged as being comparable at the very least.
I now know what to get you guys for Christmas.
Last edited by Stamina; Jun 20, 2010 at 04:14 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Yes I have these tires too. Torque steer is gone, and even with Infini-boost at 24psi they don't spin TOO much in second
Last edited by redninja6r; Jun 20, 2010 at 07:15 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
BTW - Ronn, pull the moisture condenser off the car before you go to the track. One off and it could bust the end tanks (plastic). Just fill the holes with JB weld or something like that.
Hmm...don't know about size of fresh air source..does that matter here?
Would you agree that ALL the air comming into the stock intake is from the OUTSIDE?
And conversely, ALL the air comming into the short ram is from UNDER THE HOOD?
The only way you can convince me that the short RAM is equal to the temps of stock set up, is to prove to me that the FRESH air comming in from the outside (above the fog light) is somehow being HEATED UP before it gets sucked into the filer box.
Would you agree that ALL the air comming into the stock intake is from the OUTSIDE?
And conversely, ALL the air comming into the short ram is from UNDER THE HOOD?
The only way you can convince me that the short RAM is equal to the temps of stock set up, is to prove to me that the FRESH air comming in from the outside (above the fog light) is somehow being HEATED UP before it gets sucked into the filer box.
SRI under the hood I see IAT2's 14-16* above ambient moving down the freeway. IAT1 & 2 are only a few inches apart on my setup. IAT1 is right ahead of the throttle body, IAT2 is in the intake manifold.
Same temps within a few degrees my Hahn CAI when I had it on there. They all rise when stuck in traffic anyway or staging at the track.
I like being able to service the filter without pulling the headlight and the fact that a rainstorm doesn't get the filter wet now with the SRI under the hood.
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