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Just installed yesterday. Do I need it for my street driven ss? No. But it is what I want over need/require. The 14.5 brake kit to fill out my large opening with the 20” wheels. It looks odd with the stock rotors creating too much space in between rotors and rims. wish there is a larger rotor option for the rear.
I want to add if anyone are doing this conversion. You will need to shorten the new banjo bolts approximately 3/16" to the same length as stock. Brembo. I have the aftermarket braided brake lines. Follow the instructions.
Did the gravity bleed of the lines can be done easily buy attaching a short length of clear tubing to the 2 bleeder screws. This way you can see if there are air pockets left in the line. But make sure the reservoir is fully top up at all time during the process. This my first time doing it this way and it work. Full brake pressure.
Thanks. Wish some one would make a 6 piston caliper for the fronts and maybe 4 for the rears, I would be the first inline.
I just love the aggressive looks of huge brakes.. Which means the brakes worth 3 x the book value of the car?
I will finish the swap by the weekend and snap a few pics with the 20" on the car. It should look more aggressive with the larger rotors and sits a little lower with the Powell Struts and yyz. I am really looking forward to see how the new struts react. Not as harsh as a coilovers would be jackpot.
Love the new stand with Powell Struts/YYZ. Looking forward to the summer. The new ZZP large yellow caliper/rotor kit fill the wheel nicely.
Someone will get a well moded SS when she has to make way for another sedan or coupe in a couple few years.
Love the new stand with Powell Struts/YYZ. Looking forward to the summer. The new ZZP large yellow caliper/rotor kit fill the wheel nicely.
Someone will get a well moded SS when she has to make way for another sedan or coupe in a couple few years.
Had a chance to put some miles on the new PRS custom Bilstein /yyz struts kit setup finally. Good stuff.
The ride height is perfect for my liking not too low. The ride is not as harsh as my D2 coilovers of 4 years ago. It is not the comfy ride like your stock setup as one should expect anyway. After all these are track capable setup. One thing to expect is there will be some rattling noise from the rear shocks when going over bumpy surfaces. That is because of the solid racing shock and its solid mounts. The openings of the upper and lower are slightly larger then the stock opening thus creating more play. After all theses are not cobalt specific dimensions. I am fine with it a good compromise for serious cornering capability..
Also add another mod in the quest to keep that turbo/intake/dp area cooler. I made a deflector to draw more air up in that area like a rad deflector. I don't need it but it is always good to keep it as cool as possible. At lease It is good for all the electrical harnesses back there I would think? Also mounted a small fan to assist in the process.
That deflector seems like it hangs down REALLY low. I have my charge piping routed tightly under the oil pan... and even that has gotten scraped up before.
At least it's aluminum, but I'd be careful about routing any sort of pertinent wiring or something around it or anything like that, just in case something happens to it.
Also, a bit of turbine performance is based on heat energy. I don't think you'll negatively affect anything too much, but it's something to keep in mind.
Originally Posted by blrt
The openings of the upper and lower are slightly larger then the stock opening thus creating more play.
You should be able to take measurements and get a sleeve to fill the gap around the bolts - or maybe find some shoulder bolts that can fill the gap. You also might want to torque the bolts a bit more. You don't want there to be any play.
That deflector seems like it hangs down REALLY low. I have my charge piping routed tightly under the oil pan... and even that has gotten scraped up before.
At least it's aluminum, but I'd be careful about routing any sort of pertinent wiring or something around it or anything like that, just in case something happens to it.
Also, a bit of turbine performance is based on heat energy. I don't think you'll negatively affect anything too much, but it's something to keep in mind.
You should be able to take measurements and get a sleeve to fill the gap around the bolts - or maybe find some shoulder bolts that can fill the gap. You also might want to torque the bolts a bit more. You don't want there to be any play.
Good points and suggestions.
The original deflector ( clear polycarbonate sheet ) was hanging even lower. The one in the pic has been shortened around an inch for better clearance. Because the deflector is almost at the center point of the wheel axle so it does help with clearance when going over speed bump. However I will be cautious with road kill etc... lol. The polycarbonate is flexible so I am not too concern with that.
The turbo has a blanket so it will retained the heat within. Dp has been wrapped as well.
I have look in MC for a shoulder bolt that I can use or machined to fit but couldn't find any that would work. The other challenge is I would need to open up the stock mounting bracket for the larger bolt. Doing this will creates the same problem if the future owner wanted to return back to stock.
I had instead use some very thin copper and make into a sleeve to take up the space/gap but it still doesn't eliminate the rattles. The copper in the pic was the thicker one but I had found a thinner copper sheet since to use as a complete sleeve.. But I will get some of that metal sleeve from MC you had suggested just because it will not crushed as easily as my home made copper sleeve. Thanks.
12-27-2020, 11:37 AM
