Offical: Porous Block Problem Thread
If you are worried, then plan on $2-3000 for a replacement engine. Even if you add that, you're going to have a hard time finding a better bang-for-your-buck deal. Or find one with the engine already replaced. For the right price mine is for sale
My 09 is in the trouble period of build date but if it happens it happens. Wouldn't blink an eye about throwing another motor in it. $3k is a lot cheaper than buying a v8rwd car. These cars offer to much to be overlooked. They are like the 340 dusters and 350 novas of the old muscle car era.
Is there any way to tell if a particular car is succeptible--can it be pressure tested or any other tests that will tell if it has this problem, or is it just wait and see if/when it suddenly appears?
Yes any car can, the problem with these is they are known to, and the engine happens to be the most expensive component of the car--not something you just casually replace.
Is there any way to tell if a particular car is succeptible--can it be pressure tested or any other tests that will tell if it has this problem, or is it just wait and see if/when it suddenly appears?
Is there any way to tell if a particular car is succeptible--can it be pressure tested or any other tests that will tell if it has this problem, or is it just wait and see if/when it suddenly appears?
Joined: 04-18-14
Posts: 16,421
Likes: 603
From: El Paso, TX
Well a zfr turbo is actually more expensive than what the engine brand new costs. so i'll say it's pretty cheap engine. I know some people don't have the funds to get a new engine after buying a car but seems like most lnfs with problems have been outline with the problem years in the thread, so just stay away from those or buy one with a replaced engine
Well a zfr turbo is actually more expensive than what the engine brand new costs. so i'll say it's pretty cheap engine. I know some people don't have the funds to get a new engine after buying a car but seems like most lnfs with problems have been outline with the problem years in the thread, so just stay away from those or buy one with a replaced engine
Yes I was quite surprised just how cheap the NEW replacement short blocks are for these cars.
It was a big factor for my decision to get a Cobalt with the LNF vs CSRT4. Those engines are $$$,$$$ and near impossible to find.
I can understand a person being nervous about the LNF after reading about the porous block issue if you can't do all the work yourself. It can get spendy.
If potential engine failure or large expense right after purchasing a used car with no warranty then I wouldn't look at any turbo car to be honest.
That's why when I bought my car I got a nice extended warranty added onto the loan. only added like 5$ to the monthly payment and I am covered on literally almost everything for 6 years or until I get to 100000mi, which I think the 6 years is gonna pass first lol. had my car for a while now and only drove 600mi. and most of that was driving home from st Louis.
of course perks of working at a gm dealer I can bring my own car in, diag it. and get paid by the extended warranty to replace whatever it is.
of course perks of working at a gm dealer I can bring my own car in, diag it. and get paid by the extended warranty to replace whatever it is.
You can but it will be at a higher price depending on if you do or don't have regular records. And you also may have to have the vehicle inspected by a ase certified shop to get approved.
Then depending on year make model options and miles the company will give you a set price for each package they offer. for instance mine was 2600 for basically a bumper to bumper coverage until 100k or 6yrs.
Each plan also has deductibles. higher deductibles equals lower overall price. I got 100 deduct on mine.
Last edited by Kolt; Nov 18, 2015 at 05:36 PM.
That's why when I bought my car I got a nice extended warranty added onto the loan. only added like 5$ to the monthly payment and I am covered on literally almost everything for 6 years or until I get to 100000mi, which I think the 6 years is gonna pass first lol. had my car for a while now and only drove 600mi. and most of that was driving home from st Louis.
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Yes any car can, the problem with these is they are known to, and the engine happens to be the most expensive component of the car--not something you just casually replace. Is there any way to tell if a particular car is succeptible--can it be pressure tested or any other tests that will tell if it has this problem, or is it just wait and see if/when it suddenly appears?
Good thing they're cheaper to replace than a lot of cars-- don't buy one if you're that worried
So i have an 09 build date 09/2008. Ive had the car since it was brand new, it has 67k miles and has recently started exhibiting signs of slow coolant draining with no visible leaks or coolant in the oil. All signs are indicating that my block is failing. Only thing that is keeping me from thinking it is certain is the age and mileage, but i saw an example where some one had 80k miles before it happened.
So i have an 09 build date 09/2008. Ive had the car since it was brand new, it has 67k miles and has recently started exhibiting signs of slow coolant draining with no visible leaks or coolant in the oil. All signs are indicating that my block is failing. Only thing that is keeping me from thinking it is certain is the age and mileage, but i saw an example where some one had 80k miles before it happened.
I'm just waiting for it to happen on mine. 40,000 and same build month. It seems to happen at different mileage's. Sucks that gm hasn't and never will do anything about it except those lucky ones that had it happen under warranty. You shouldn't lose a block under 150,000 on any car.
I'm just waiting for it to happen on mine. 40,000 and same build month. It seems to happen at different mileage's. Sucks that gm hasn't and never will do anything about it except those lucky ones that had it happen under warranty. You shouldn't lose a block under 150,000 on any car.
Yes any car can, the problem with these is they are known to, and the engine happens to be the most expensive component of the car--not something you just casually replace. Is there any way to tell if a particular car is succeptible--can it be pressure tested or any other tests that will tell if it has this problem, or is it just wait and see if/when it suddenly appears?



