INJEN FTW (but you need to get better couplers and t-bolts.

 

Stock ftw! Overall, there seems to be less problems with them.

 

Until it pops off during a high boost run and starts slamming into your high pressure fuel pump and causes it to fail costing you 1000 in repairs. Yes there is a GM service bulletin on this. But if you have had the upgraded fastener installed you should be fine.

 

so I just got the pipe in today, 20 minutes after ZZP closed.. unfortunately someone forgot to pack in install instructions, and I don't know where to start.. fml. I need this to be done tonight for me to drive to work tomorrow, as my stock pipe cracked in another spot. Doubtful but there isnt an online copy of the instructions floating around anywhere online, is there?

 

What is considered "high boost"? I spike 24-26psi (depending on weather) and then taper off to about 20 till redline and have only had the CP come off once, and that was when the car was still stock. Perhaps I have the upgraded fasteners you speak of and did not know.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...ctions-152837/

Not ZZP but its all basically the same

 

I installed this yesterday and didn't have instructions either but a monkey can do it.

Take stock cp off and cut the plastic rings off and replace with zzp pipe.

Done

 

You purchased couplers as well, right? Just install the couplers and charge tube in place of the stock ones. They follow tha same path, for the most part. It's pretty easy.

 

Fml seriously. Just installed the pipe and couplers, fitment was perfect, and an overall quality piece. However, my car is still only boosting to 10psi on the stock tune, and 12 with trifecta. I don't know what is going on with this thing! it makes me so mad when I can't figure out what is wrong with my car. At least it is driveable for the time being and I only have to baby it to work and back which is only 4 miles away. Does anyone else have any ideas on what could cause the car to only boost to 10 lbs?

 

Is it acting strange when you drive it? What's it doing? Did you lose power (I assume you did boosting that low)?

Could be overboost protection or some crazy wacked out fuel trims.

 

If you had a boost leak and do not anymore, you may need to clear the codes with a scanner or by unhooking the battery for a while.

 

injen ftw! i like the way it looks too, now i just need a wire tuck.

 

You could have more cracks in your other stock piped areas, bad sensor or wastgate. Is thier lots of black smoke coming out? Blown turbo? Give us more details on whats happening.

 

Yeah, disconnect the battery for ten fifteen minutes to reset the ecu. Then when you hook it back up turn the key to power only then off then you can start it. It wont start after a reset on the first key turn. Then when you start it let it iddle for a while. then take it for a test drive. If its still doing the same thing then something else is up or your leak is somewhere else. Weird that your not throwing a code though.

 

Check your intercooler for cracks. The plastic endplates have been known to crack.

Check your Wastegate actuator arm. some have come loose before and have caused the wastegate to become jammed and stuck open.

An ecu reset will probably not help you. The ECU should automatically adjust the engine back to the 260/260 settings regardless. Your low boost situation sounds more like either a leak or a turbo problem.

Also you should perform a boost leak test on it. Boost leak test how to with boostpro.net tester - DSM Forums

 

Sorry for not responding sooner, for some reason I signed up for email notifications on this thread, but I only get like 1/4th of them. Anyways yes I was throwing a code before, I forgot what it was but it was for "turbocharger/supercharger underboost" when I had the leak. I inspected everything including the intercooler and cold pipe. I found the crack on my stocker hotside right by the pancake right on top of the motor.. I am going to be leaving to go watch the Cavs vs Celtics after this post, and I am gonna try running my trifecta code scanner to see if there are any pending codes. Would doing that be the equivalent of unhooking the battery for a little bit? Redcomet, if I am not mistaken the wastegate actuator arm is the little "mushroomy" looking thing near the top of where you would mount the downpipe to? What should I look for, to see if it is open when it should be shut?

 

Don't wanna be a dick here..this is a bit off topic....
you posted this thread a while back and I find it *odd* that you never posted any resolution to this problem. Did ya find one? Wooda been nice if you let those know who tried to help....???
Link:

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...oolant-189332/

 

Ronn,
that problem was a result of a porus block. I had the motor replaced under warranty.

I scanned the car last night and got the P0101 code and the turbocharger underboost code.

 

Don't worry guys I updated that thread with the fix.

I think it may be time for you to get a zzp intercooler

 

With a 101 code for MAF, and underboost code, it seems as though there is still a boost leak. Someone mentioned the IC end tank, which is a good possibility. You should also check the lower charge tube and couplers for a leak.

 

Ok..
...you've sure had your share of problems.

 

Yeah it's been crappy out all day and rainy and freezing outside, so I can't do much with the car until Saturday. I have one of the boost leak testers from Modern Performance that helped me find the crack on the hot side. Has any one else done a boost leak on these LNF engines? Have any of you noticed a hige cloud of black smoke come out of the exhaust starting it up after doing the leakdown test? my guess is that oily residue somehow gets pushed through the turbo charger somehow and that is the oil burning off, it goes away pretty quickly though.

 

Can you describe how you are doing the pressure test? As in- where you ou pressurizing, and do you cap anything off?

 

injen w/ upgraded couplers and tclamps.

 

Matt, I hooked up the leakdown tester where the air box elbow goes into the turbo. I didn't cap anything off. As soon as I started to pressurize it, I heard the hissing sound coming from the pancake part on the top of the charge pipe and also where the bottom coupler and charge pipe meet. Sprayed soapy water and it confirmed this. Put the new CP on and it holds 10 lbs fine at wot, but doesn't go past 10 psi. If I turn my tune on and go WOT it will hold 15 for about 4 or 5 seconds, and then it kills the power like the engine power reduced mode and it won't boost. Shut it off and went back to my car 5 mins later and it was holding 10psi again. No engine power reduced light came on or CEL, but I do have those pending codes that will eventually turn into a CEL. Hey Matt, do you work @ ZZP by any chance? I am delighted at the quality of the hot side charge pipe.

 

The reason I asked how you set up the pressure test is because it is easy to pressurize the crankcase. If you had still have the braided hose running from the turbo inlet to the valve cover, then pressurizng the turbo inlet will send pressurized air directly into the crankcase. This can cause the smoking when starting the car that you described.

Yes, I work for ZZP. Thanks for the compliment on the charge tube!