Removing braided line off valve cover?
I m wit u. GM hate to spend money on stainless braided lines, they did it for a reason. Darn LNF gets hot under hood and stays that way for ever. Found the coil pack individual wires melted together on a car yesterday. Not sure why folks use Injen alloy charge tubes btw what aheat transfer they have.,,,
I used a goofy tool I found at advance to remove the line. It cost $8 
I beleive its for fuel lines. When you push it into the fitting it depresses the little tabs inside the fitting releasing the braided hose
I beleive its for fuel lines. When you push it into the fitting it depresses the little tabs inside the fitting releasing the braided hose
dont cut it. I got the trick, and send out exhcange pc covers with the line installed. whats not to like about that? and I supply the q-d tool for the other line which is serviceable easily
It's a 3/8 Fuel Line Disconnect Tool. The issue is any that I've tried are too thick to remove the 1 line, the other is easy and in the open.
We have this:
Amazon.com: Mastercool (MAS71200) Push-Connect Flaring Tool Set: Home Improvement
To make our own breather lines on our intakes. A lil expensive but it works very well!
We have this:
Amazon.com: Mastercool (MAS71200) Push-Connect Flaring Tool Set: Home Improvement
To make our own breather lines on our intakes. A lil expensive but it works very well!
Member
Joined: 12-02-09
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
posted this in the other thread:
So I figured out an easy way to get the hose off! Plastic/Nylon Zip Tie Wraps or whatever you call them! Get some that are medium sized, a few mm thick, cut four, two inch long pieces (do not use the thin tapered starter section of the tie wrap), insert one piece at each locking tab to disengage it, then pull off the connector (a firm tug was required still).
The tie wrap pieces are great because they are very flexible and easy to get into the connector. Just use tie wraps that are thick enough to fully disengage the locking tabs (but not too thick that it jams trying to be inserted) and you are good to go! The hard part was finding where the locking tabs were but I guess you could cut more pieces and jam the connector full if you wanted to make sure you got them.
Here is a picture of how I got the hose off the turbo side just to demonstrate how this works great to get into tight spaces. On the turbo side the fitting completely blocks about a quarter of the connector but I was still able to fit the piece of tie wrap in to disengage the locking tab (The picture only shows one piece of plastic tie but I used four total).
I'm so happy I have my catch can in finally!
So I figured out an easy way to get the hose off! Plastic/Nylon Zip Tie Wraps or whatever you call them! Get some that are medium sized, a few mm thick, cut four, two inch long pieces (do not use the thin tapered starter section of the tie wrap), insert one piece at each locking tab to disengage it, then pull off the connector (a firm tug was required still).
The tie wrap pieces are great because they are very flexible and easy to get into the connector. Just use tie wraps that are thick enough to fully disengage the locking tabs (but not too thick that it jams trying to be inserted) and you are good to go! The hard part was finding where the locking tabs were but I guess you could cut more pieces and jam the connector full if you wanted to make sure you got them.
Here is a picture of how I got the hose off the turbo side just to demonstrate how this works great to get into tight spaces. On the turbo side the fitting completely blocks about a quarter of the connector but I was still able to fit the piece of tie wrap in to disengage the locking tab (The picture only shows one piece of plastic tie but I used four total).
I'm so happy I have my catch can in finally!
Senior Member
Joined: 04-13-09
Posts: 1,450
Likes: 0
From: WI
The one that goes to the turbo, once you undo the bolt thats it. Its like a nipple on a piece of metal on the turbo. Once its out ur done with that part. The valve cover to intake line can sometimes be taken off with these...
I believe they are called like fuel line disconnect tools. I had no luck with these. Some people do. I ended up cutting it off and buying a new braided line
I believe they are called like fuel line disconnect tools. I had no luck with these. Some people do. I ended up cutting it off and buying a new braided line
It worked on a buddies car. Piece of cake... Maybe I just got lucky?
I don't have a tc so I am just going off the images I see here but these fittings look the same as the fuel lines on my wifes Envoy. I have had difficulty with those plastic style fuel line dissconect tools but there is a metal style that I find to work better. It is a bit thinner than the plasic ones so it might work
better for the lines on your valve covers. I borrowed a snap on one from a frend of mine bit it looked just like this one that is much cheaper.
FUEL LINE DISCONNECT TOOL 3/8,1/2 FORD/GM DIESEL
someone might wnt to try this style and report back as to how it works
better for the lines on your valve covers. I borrowed a snap on one from a frend of mine bit it looked just like this one that is much cheaper.
FUEL LINE DISCONNECT TOOL 3/8,1/2 FORD/GM DIESEL
someone might wnt to try this style and report back as to how it works
Haz l33t wheelz.
Joined: 09-14-07
Posts: 18,883
Likes: 3
From: Costa Mesa CA
there is no tool that fits the pcv line at the cover that runs to the turbo. Remove the 6 mm bolt at the turbo housing (10 mm socket) to remove the cover with the line attached. The other braided line to the air intake removes with the proper tool.
I have a little trick Devon figured out here, so we can remove the line that is difficult here at the shop, GM call it unserviceable for good reason, no tool will fit.
All our powdercoated LNF covers are supplied here on an exchange basis, with that line attached, and a tool to remove the other line. The way we work we dont charge a core charge, we rely on our customers to return the cover and the tool asap...
I have a little trick Devon figured out here, so we can remove the line that is difficult here at the shop, GM call it unserviceable for good reason, no tool will fit.
All our powdercoated LNF covers are supplied here on an exchange basis, with that line attached, and a tool to remove the other line. The way we work we dont charge a core charge, we rely on our customers to return the cover and the tool asap...
Haz l33t wheelz.
Joined: 09-14-07
Posts: 18,883
Likes: 3
From: Costa Mesa CA
I didn't break it, i promise. And i found your lines, i just need to get tot he post office. :/
Last edited by ls1fbody; Jul 1, 2011 at 08:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
posted this in the other thread:
So I figured out an easy way to get the hose off! Plastic/Nylon Zip Tie Wraps or whatever you call them! Get some that are medium sized, a few mm thick, cut four, two inch long pieces (do not use the thin tapered starter section of the tie wrap), insert one piece at each locking tab to disengage it, then pull off the connector (a firm tug was required still).
The tie wrap pieces are great because they are very flexible and easy to get into the connector. Just use tie wraps that are thick enough to fully disengage the locking tabs (but not too thick that it jams trying to be inserted) and you are good to go! The hard part was finding where the locking tabs were but I guess you could cut more pieces and jam the connector full if you wanted to make sure you got them.
Here is a picture of how I got the hose off the turbo side just to demonstrate how this works great to get into tight spaces. On the turbo side the fitting completely blocks about a quarter of the connector but I was still able to fit the piece of tie wrap in to disengage the locking tab (The picture only shows one piece of plastic tie but I used four total).
I'm so happy I have my catch can in finally!
So I figured out an easy way to get the hose off! Plastic/Nylon Zip Tie Wraps or whatever you call them! Get some that are medium sized, a few mm thick, cut four, two inch long pieces (do not use the thin tapered starter section of the tie wrap), insert one piece at each locking tab to disengage it, then pull off the connector (a firm tug was required still).
The tie wrap pieces are great because they are very flexible and easy to get into the connector. Just use tie wraps that are thick enough to fully disengage the locking tabs (but not too thick that it jams trying to be inserted) and you are good to go! The hard part was finding where the locking tabs were but I guess you could cut more pieces and jam the connector full if you wanted to make sure you got them.
Here is a picture of how I got the hose off the turbo side just to demonstrate how this works great to get into tight spaces. On the turbo side the fitting completely blocks about a quarter of the connector but I was still able to fit the piece of tie wrap in to disengage the locking tab (The picture only shows one piece of plastic tie but I used four total).
I'm so happy I have my catch can in finally!
i beleive u. I promise
