FasterIsBetter

Yeah, lets stop the arguing. I'm gonna post up my engine swap as well and would like for people to be able to tell what the hell I post!

Matt M

We should make it so we can't read each others' posts so I can't see you bad mouthing zzp parts and tunes and you can't see me inviting you to come to our dyno day. Good idea. Let's just pretend that there is not a problem there.

Seriously, when are you going to get it? If you have a problem with a zzp part, you have every opportunity to contact me and discuss it. I will work with you to resolve the issue. Posting jabs and random complaints in threads that were started for a completely different topic is not the way. It seems that only you can not grasp that.

Matt M

lol. You are right. A bunch of people told him that he was being a dumb ass, then he waited a while and came back and said, "See! This thread sucks, like I knew it would!"

Matt M

Which is funny, because whenever he puts zzp down, he talks about how no one cares about horsepower or track times. It's all about drive-ability.

GM Tech's deal is that he does have an actual complex dealing with control and superiority. If you surf around the forums that he is on, he has only 1 of 2 relationsships with people. Either A- Someone does not get along with him and they can not stand each other. or B. They fight until the other guy gives in and decides to overlook his attitude for whatever reason. In many cases, it is because John is able to help him with an issue that he is having. Now while this is great that John is willing to help someone, a lot of people will not under any circumstances swallow their pride and act like John was right all along. Basically what that means is that you can either give in and admit that you need him and treat him like he is above you, or you can continue not getting along. It's unfortunate that those are the only 2 choices, because he does have some knowledge and abilities. A lot of people are not willing to elect him as the leader in order to have access to that knowledge. For ZZP, we would be giving up more than we would gain, so it is pretty much doomed from the start.

TuckN18z

ZZP ROCKS. SORRY I JUST HAD TO DO THIS BECAUSE I HAVE NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH THIER CUSTOMER SERVICE DEPARTMENT OR PARTS I HAVE ORDERED FROM THEM

mongorat427

iTrader: (82)

I hear a fresh draft calling at the bar. All the drama made my old ass THIRSTY

Matt M

James- I'll make a deal with you. If you start a new thread to discuss the zzp clutch rod and clutch disks welding to the plate, I will be glad to discuss those topics with you there. I will explain why we make the clutch rod the way we do, and I will talk about our experience with the particular clutch material that causes the issue that you are referring to, including when we tested it, why we don't use it, and who does. Then I will delete all of my posts in this thread. Why would I do that? Because that is how a forum is supposed to be utilized. Taking random shots and us in unrelated threads and then demanding that we go to PM when we respond is not the correct way to participate on a forum.

Terminator2

Quoted for truth. Back on topic for me now.

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

Matt You seem knowledgeable, and seems like you could be a good guy and if there is question or anything ill keep it to pms starting out. (I'm not making the thread, there's no point because I know why materials are used and why the rod is the way it is ) ... Sorry, that it always comes to this, ill try to hold back ..

Thanks

Matt M

I don't think you really understand my point. What I try to say again and again is that you are welcome to question our products. You can start a thread and bring up your concerns and we will gladly discuss any issues that you have come across and see what we can do to resolve any issues. It is important that people understand this because we absolutley are not trying to hide issues from the public. We want the information out there, but we want it discussed in a reasonable manner. I just don't see that you ever want to actually accomplish anything like that, though. You seem like you would rather just talk a little crap on a regular basis and hope we don't notice. That is the problem that I have with you. As far as inviting you to our mod day, I think we would get along better afterwards if you make the trip.

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

I get what you are saying (im actually a smart individual lol) Even though my online grammar may say otherwise)>>>>>> smiley face inserted here<<<< .... Im not talking crap, i dont care if you see any of my posts... I give my opinions, because there are concerns from other members and people take the opinions and turn it to somthing else. Which then turns into a argument. If i did not like zzp i wouldnt have my guys get your parts plain and simple.... (Almost all my guys ask me and i say get your parts, and beleive it or not but its a few guys a day ordering parts that i told them to get)


The meet deal, i dunno anymore if id want to.. Part of me thinks itll be best not to, other part says itll be nice to meet other members and get to know some people!!

CudaJoe

iTrader: (1)

I think these two know each other and they are just ******* with us.

SlowCobaltSS

Stamina

For your viewing pleasure:

Here's a vid from our Spring Break trip down to Mexico a while back. Teased the Mustang, he took the bait, we intercepted the jump / attempted flyby, and came out with a win.

Cobalt SS vs. Mach 1 - YouTube

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

You still havent sold that damn clutch.. (what has it been?) 15 YEARS LOL

FasterIsBetter

Bought my serpentine belt, antifreeze, and oil filter today and couldn't find a 981mm belt that was 5 rib, so I bought the closest thing to it which was 983mm. Shouldn't have any fitment issues as its only 2mm and the tensioner should take up the slack, but I'll post if I do.

Stamina

Oh yeah, that should be fine. As long as it's a 5 rib and somewhere close to that length it should work fine. We just happened to find a 981mm length one that worked (it was a bit difficult finding one that was a size in between the two lengths that didn't work), and just happened to find that this worked well.

Also, make sure to keep an eye on the coolant tank initially. What's in there one second won't be in there the next. We massaged one of the rubber hoses that goes to the radiator to help move the coolant and get rid of air. Then we ran it with the cap a bit loose to let it freely flow without negative pressure issues keeping air pockets from staying put inside the system (burping it in a way). After a bit of that, we filled the coolant tank up to the correct level, tightened down the cap, and I just kept an eye on it over the next several break-in drives.

Good luck!

Also... make sure to turn over the engine a while with the injectors disconnected to get the oil flowing before actually attempting to start it. It will significantly cut down on that initial unprotected wear.

FasterIsBetter

Yeap, I planned on it. I was just gonna pull the coil packs and fuel pump fuse as that seems easier to get to on the first start up. I know I tried unplugging the injectors before and it was a ***** all the way out at the main harness plug so I didn't worry about it when I pulled my injector rail to replace my seals and just unplugged each one individually. For break in this car will see all highway as to be easier on it. My commute is all highway so we'll clear up the quirks on the weekend if we can by driving it back and forth on the highway with the cruise set. And thanks for the tip on the coolant. I assumed that would have to be done as our cars have remote reserviors and every car/truck I've ever flushed you had to squeeze the line but that was mostly fords so I wasn't comepletely sure if just squeezing the line would get the job done.

Stamina

Yeah. Somebody else may need to chime in on this, but I believe the high pressure fuel pump is a positive displacement pump with a pressure regulator on it. I couldn't come up with a completely good way to prime the engine without possibly causing an issue with the HPFP. Being a positive displacement pump, you don't want run it dry, but you don't want it to not have an outlet either. It sounds like your way would probably be a good way to go. It'll spray what's in the rail after the HPFP. I can tell you from experience that the car will run with a disabled HPFP though. It was running off of just the in-tank lift pump for a while in limp mode before I figured out that we forgot the HPFP cam roller... so don't forget the cam roller. lol

Make sure to not do all highway! Make sure to vary your revs and speeds as much as possible. Take an exit ramp, stop at a light or two, and then get back on the highway every once in a while for instance. Use engine braking every chance you get. Take it WOT a couple times, after it's warmed up, on a low power/stock tune. I know it sounds counter-intuitive or possibly even like you're ragging on it a bit, but you'll need to heat cycle the engine and bed your rings to make them seal properly/better.

FasterIsBetter

Yeah, I have the head, cams, tune combo so they should be able to send me a good base file atleast. And I didn't mean it like that. Its a few stop lights from the interstate and sometimes bumper to bumper traffic, but after the interstate its home free. Yeah, people were trying to tell me not to go wot in it but I know better than that due to the rings needing to seat and cut their grooves, I was planning on doing it on around 15psi. I was thinking about 20 as well as Ryan seemed to break chases car in, maybe not initially, on 26psi on the BNR.

Stamina

Wow, 26psi seems to be a bit much to immediately throw at a fresh engine. lol I used a stock tune to do the seating and then raised it up from there after a while, so I can see ramping it up from stock levels after a few heat cycles, before there are too many miles on the engine.

FasterIsBetter

Yeah, I can't run the stock tune due to having the S256ET.

Stamina

Ah ok. I did some research and in theory my car will still run okay if I needed to do it. Airload and AFR is airload and AFR no matter the mods, but a different turbo on the other hand could warrant changing some other tables I imagine. For instance, the file I was on from Vince initially wasn't touched from a standard tune file. The car relearned the VE, cams, and everything. Then we locked in the revised airloads for my stronger clutch, upped the fuel pressure now that I had the fuel lobe, and started messing with timing.

I'm not sure how tweaked some of your other tables need to be for an S256ET that I may not have had to touch though, so I couldn't really comment on it.

FasterIsBetter

The maf tables and airload tables will be significantly different. I don't trust my lack of experience with tuning the lnf, so I'd rather have someone else do it. Plus it would help keep my warranty valid if zzp tunes it.

strazdice

iTrader: (1)

Actually it won't(if your talkin about the factory warrenty) otherwise your good to go if your talkin about the zzp kit itself and their warrenty, if zzp still uses hpt it will trip the computer sorry bud trifecta thus far is the only tune that doesn't, again if your talking about the factory warrenty that is.