Originally Posted by blackbird

If you plan to stick on the stock turbo and not run slicks (which there aren't great options because of the front brake size anyways) and run out and buy a four-puck ceramic disc clutch set that can hold well north of 400 ft-lbs of torque you probably could daily drive it. I've done it before and currently have similar clutches in a couple of my cars to include my SRT-4. If you use the stock pressure plate then the clutch pedal pressure should not significantly change, but that's not the problem. Those discs are super aggressive and can work like an on-off switch. If you're doing a lot of stop and go driving, and heavens forbid you have any traffic jams on your commute, the disc is going to heat up and become even grabbier. Many of them don't have a coating over the hub springs and they rattle pretty loud when the car is in neutral. You get a lot of driveline shock when engaging the clutch from a stop. And because the clutches don't like to slip something has to give and that will more than likely be your front tires which will have a much reduced service life.

That's a few of the big reasons they aren't the best in a daily driver. Add to that a possibly shorter service life depending on the specific disc and you'll be spending a lot more money per mile for a race clutch that can hold insane power levels. And if you're not making those power levels and have a requirement for that type of clutch the downsides will outweigh the positives. Can you daily drive and commute with the ceramic puck discs? Sure, but if a good organic-based conventional disc will hold what you are capable of putting down you should carefully consider what you're getting in to.

Another extreme example of people going overboard on clutches would be trying to run a twin-disc racing setup on a street driven car and on cars that aren't making enough power to need one. Besides the much higher overall expense you also have to deal with a custom flywheel that has much less mass and make the car harder to drive at slow speeds and from a stock. Then if you're using it aggressively all the time it places a lot harder shock on the transaxle and I've seen them break things like input shafts (usually when running slicks but you stick get a lot of shock fatiguing components in regular street use).


My advice would be to pick whatever flywheel type you want. If you can get a custom aftermarket unit that is significantly lighter than stock it may be a pain to drive and you probably won't see a significant difference in power, but you more than likely will be able to drive around the different engine revving characteristics. On the pressure plate stick with one that has a clamping force similar to stock or you'll beat up the thrust bearing and bottom end of the engine (which can cause "crank walk" when that thrust bearing wears out and allows the crank and rotating assembly to move left and right in the block).

The main part you will have to think about though will be the clutch disc. Some types of discs are better than others but if you need massive holding power you can't have everything (e.g. smooth engagement, long service life, etc.), and if you realistically aren't going to be doubling your crank torque figures don't go too wild on the clutch. It's good to leave a little headroom but an excessive amount of extra capacity you'll never use will come with a cost. It's up to you to know what that will be and if you want to live with it.

Originally Posted by roadrage06

how is your clutch slipping already?

I used to think mine was. Then I put new tires on for winter......................it was the tires.

You might want to be sure of that before you drop that kind of cash for a clutch.

keep in mind we live in PA, there is a ton of salt and **** on the road. Audibly, it can be deceiving.

Originally Posted by platinumrims

prolly. unless your peeling and and your speedo is broke LMAO!

Originally Posted by blu3_v1p3r

Spec stage 2 is what i got... kinda bummed that i didn't get the 2+ i also didn't get a flywheel....