ecotechnik synapse turbo kit
lets say a cobalt turbo has this kit and puts down 375 whp... is there any possible traction mods that would completely eliminate 3rd gear traction problems, and dampen most of the traction problems in 2nd gear... ex: wider tires, tranny mounts, torque limiter
or is this kind of power simply unctrollable for a fwd cobalt?
or is this kind of power simply unctrollable for a fwd cobalt?
I wish there were a way to fit an ingalls torque damper on the LNF setup...now that would be awesome.
Those three things you listed are pretty much the only solutions...and they should pretty much slove the problem...perhaps a good suspension upgrade as well...although I wouldn't really use the torque limiter in HPTuners or any other tuning method to control the torque...that's no fun 


I wish there were a way to fit an ingalls torque damper on the LNF setup...now that would be awesome.
I wish there were a way to fit an ingalls torque damper on the LNF setup...now that would be awesome.
I would say don't really go wider than a 255...but I think the most you can fit on a stock setup without rubbing is 245.
If you rolled and cut the fenders or added a widebody kit and wheels with a more positive offset you could run 10" wide wheels and 275-285 tires but it would be very expensive.
either way i would be happy with mid to high 300's
There is nothing shitty about hte stock manifold. If you have been around long enough, you know that ALL fabricated manifolds crack given enough daily driving. With that in mind we kept the factory cast manifold. If your building a race car or saturday night special, then yes a well build header will be worth perhaps 3-4% power.
As far as BOOST THRESHOLD. (lag is totally different) I guess you need to look at data.
Here is a log from a forum member with the Gt3076R on the "worthless" stock manifold.
Looks to me that it's pegging the map sensor by 3500. According to Joe its 28psi, so please stop disseminanting false information. If you have actual data to share then please do. But dont fill newbies heads with nonsense unless you go and tell them that it's only your opinion and you have no real data to base it on.
This is largely due to the Gt28's turbine being "only" 66% efficent vs the GT3076R's 72% efficient turbine section.
all in all I think you would be perfectly happy with the Gt3076R. It's boost threshold is 1K higher then the stock turbo and makes killer power.
OK so I was also looking into Dejon's turbo kits...they have a garrett ball bearing setup using a 5457 turbo? I'm not sure what that is or how big it is..but it sounds nice. Also..and I'm sure some of the tuners can chime in...they recommend using a boost controller of some type...is that really necessary? I though boost was just done through tuning with these things?
There is nothing shitty about hte stock manifold. If you have been around long enough, you know that ALL fabricated manifolds crack given enough daily driving. With that in mind we kept the factory cast manifold. If your building a race car or saturday night special, then yes a well build header will be worth perhaps 3-4% power.
As far as BOOST THRESHOLD. (lag is totally different) I guess you need to look at data.
Here is a log from a forum member with the Gt3076R on the "worthless" stock manifold.
Looks to me that it's pegging the map sensor by 3500. According to Joe its 28psi, so please stop disseminanting false information. If you have actual data to share then please do. But dont fill newbies heads with nonsense unless you go and tell them that it's only your opinion and you have no real data to base it on.
As far as BOOST THRESHOLD. (lag is totally different) I guess you need to look at data.
Here is a log from a forum member with the Gt3076R on the "worthless" stock manifold.
Looks to me that it's pegging the map sensor by 3500. According to Joe its 28psi, so please stop disseminanting false information. If you have actual data to share then please do. But dont fill newbies heads with nonsense unless you go and tell them that it's only your opinion and you have no real data to base it on.
So, until you can log all of it, and have more proof. I can't believe it. Not to be a dick, but the numbers are way off.
And, is that an LNF? Cuz .79 lambda? SRSLY?
OK so I was also looking into Dejon's turbo kits...they have a garrett ball bearing setup using a 5457 turbo? I'm not sure what that is or how big it is..but it sounds nice. Also..and I'm sure some of the tuners can chime in...they recommend using a boost controller of some type...is that really necessary? I though boost was just done through tuning with these things?
Last edited by mkriebs; Nov 10, 2009 at 11:24 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Your nit picking to sidestep the point. It's beyond the map range by 3560rpm. Not 4500.
I dont need to prove what the guy reads on his pillar guage, It's Irrelavant to the arguement presented.
Beyond the map range = full spool in this application
Your completly wrong in your assesment of the exhaust manifold and it's effect on boost threshold.
Do you have data from the same car with and without the stock exhaust manifold using identical turbo setups proving that it's nessicary and worth a tremendous increase in boost threshold/power output?
Please share it with us all.
And yes. .797 lamda. Seriously your being a Dick. If you cared to even look long enough you'd notice that .81 is being commanded and the O2 is reporting .797.
I dont need to prove what the guy reads on his pillar guage, It's Irrelavant to the arguement presented.
Beyond the map range = full spool in this application
Your completly wrong in your assesment of the exhaust manifold and it's effect on boost threshold.
Do you have data from the same car with and without the stock exhaust manifold using identical turbo setups proving that it's nessicary and worth a tremendous increase in boost threshold/power output?
Please share it with us all.
And yes. .797 lamda. Seriously your being a Dick. If you cared to even look long enough you'd notice that .81 is being commanded and the O2 is reporting .797.
First, maybe we are thinking of this a bit differently. Full spool, as you are referring to, and full boost as I am referring to are completely different thoughts. Full boost is what you are commanding from the turbo. It takes time to reach full boost after the turbo reaches full spool, am I correct? Full spool is the speed the turbo will be spinning needed to reach full boost, correct? I just want to make sure were on the same page here.
Ok, that said, re-read my post, i said a better flowing manifold (a well designed one) would help the turbo spool a couple hundred rpm's sooner. Regardless, it will. The more velocity you get going past the turbine, the quicker its going to spool. Easy physics. Look at the Synapse manifold... its obvious that it is going to maintain more velocity than a stock one.
Now, a stock one will hold the heat better, which may negate some of the velocity properties of the Synapse manifold, but I still think it will help to have more velocity, because you can always wrap the Synapse one, or ceramic coat it or both, whatever your little heart desires.
Also, a pegged MAP sensor does not mean full spool (as I am talking about... full boost... powerband, w/e you wanna call it), it means 22.5 psi by 3650 rpm. When the MAP pegs, that means it has reached 22.5 psi, where the sensors cannot read any higher. Unless all you are aiming for is 22-23 psi, then its not at full boost. Just because the MAP pegs on these cars does not mean the turbo is at full spool still. Say I have a 3 Bar sensor. Just because I peg it at 5k doesn't mean I am at full spool... it simply means I am beyond 27 psi.
And, I was not side stepping a point, I was making a point. The airflow at full spool blows. That's my point, and I made it. Its obvious that it is not at full spool, because its not pushing dick for airflow at the point it pegs the MAP. Its obvious that the compressor picks its pace up later, as the MAF and VE are approaching 35 and 30 (respectively) lb/min by the edge of that log.
So, my point in all of this is, though we may be talking about the same principle, using different terminology, the car does not pick up its powerband until later than 3560 rpm. Its evidenced by the airflow. You cannot argue with that, unless you are using a MAP clam, and all the figures are skewed.
Maybe I should have worded my original statement to say "a better flowing manifold would move the powerband a couple hundred RPM's, instead of hitting at 4500." But, I am sure there is something flawed there too.
And, if I am way off on this boost thresh hold thing, please, explain it. But, boost threshold as I understand it, is just when boost starts tipping in. So... BT for my K04 is like 1200 rpm... when i start building noticeable boost. Doesn't mean the turbo is at full boost, and doesn't mean the powerband is near where i can feel it yet. I would like to see a dyno sheet, along with that log sheet to fully evaluate the situation, and how much power is it making at 3650.
As for the AFR, I was simply asking, why so rich? Wasn't intending it to be rude, I seriously would like to know, thats all.
Ok, that said, re-read my post, i said a better flowing manifold (a well designed one) would help the turbo spool a couple hundred rpm's sooner. Regardless, it will. The more velocity you get going past the turbine, the quicker its going to spool. Easy physics. Look at the Synapse manifold... its obvious that it is going to maintain more velocity than a stock one.
Now, a stock one will hold the heat better, which may negate some of the velocity properties of the Synapse manifold, but I still think it will help to have more velocity, because you can always wrap the Synapse one, or ceramic coat it or both, whatever your little heart desires.
Also, a pegged MAP sensor does not mean full spool (as I am talking about... full boost... powerband, w/e you wanna call it), it means 22.5 psi by 3650 rpm. When the MAP pegs, that means it has reached 22.5 psi, where the sensors cannot read any higher. Unless all you are aiming for is 22-23 psi, then its not at full boost. Just because the MAP pegs on these cars does not mean the turbo is at full spool still. Say I have a 3 Bar sensor. Just because I peg it at 5k doesn't mean I am at full spool... it simply means I am beyond 27 psi.
And, I was not side stepping a point, I was making a point. The airflow at full spool blows. That's my point, and I made it. Its obvious that it is not at full spool, because its not pushing dick for airflow at the point it pegs the MAP. Its obvious that the compressor picks its pace up later, as the MAF and VE are approaching 35 and 30 (respectively) lb/min by the edge of that log.
So, my point in all of this is, though we may be talking about the same principle, using different terminology, the car does not pick up its powerband until later than 3560 rpm. Its evidenced by the airflow. You cannot argue with that, unless you are using a MAP clam, and all the figures are skewed.
Maybe I should have worded my original statement to say "a better flowing manifold would move the powerband a couple hundred RPM's, instead of hitting at 4500." But, I am sure there is something flawed there too.
And, if I am way off on this boost thresh hold thing, please, explain it. But, boost threshold as I understand it, is just when boost starts tipping in. So... BT for my K04 is like 1200 rpm... when i start building noticeable boost. Doesn't mean the turbo is at full boost, and doesn't mean the powerband is near where i can feel it yet. I would like to see a dyno sheet, along with that log sheet to fully evaluate the situation, and how much power is it making at 3650.
As for the AFR, I was simply asking, why so rich? Wasn't intending it to be rude, I seriously would like to know, thats all.
Last edited by mkriebs; Nov 11, 2009 at 05:54 AM.
The 5457 is far from a BIG turbo. Its a bigger turbo, yes, but not HUGE by any means of the word. Its a typical 50 trim, with sizing just barely larger than a 3076R. It will max out just right around 500 whp. As for the boost controller, it is necessary to run over 22.5 psi. BUT (huge 'but' here), the car is still going to close the throttle plate when you go over that, unless you get the stage kit. Once you get the stage kit, it will probably not be necessary to get a boost controller, but the boost controller tends (from my experience) to deliver smoother operation.
Also, what kind of boost would the new sensors with the stage kit be able to read without closing the throttle? I know they are like 2.8 bar sensors with the kit...that's like 40 psi...but there's no way it'll let you go that high right? That just wouldn't make sense.
Hmm...I guess I'm just a n00b when it comes to tuning but I thought that HPTuners added that over boost feature or whatever it was so that you can go over the stock capabilities of the MAP sensors without throwing codes or closing the throttle or anything like that?
Also, what kind of boost would the new sensors with the stage kit be able to read without closing the throttle? I know they are like 2.8 bar sensors with the kit...that's like 40 psi...but there's no way it'll let you go that high right? That just wouldn't make sense.
Also, what kind of boost would the new sensors with the stage kit be able to read without closing the throttle? I know they are like 2.8 bar sensors with the kit...that's like 40 psi...but there's no way it'll let you go that high right? That just wouldn't make sense.
Though HPT has released the overboost tables, there is apparently one table we are missing. So, the car can be very temperamental. Sometimes it works great, other times it slams the throttle shut... its just not very consistent (in my experiences, which are somewhat limited). The GM stage kit allows right around 27-29 psi (I haven't heard exactly how many BAR they are). With that and the new OS that GM flashes on the computer, I am sure you can run close to 30 without problems. When you are figuring the BAR for the MAP sensor, don't forget to subtract atmospheric pressure, which is 1 bar (14.7 psi).


