summit racing, the part number is on page 2 of this thread

I just went to Checkers and picked up a male/male fuel line connector for 6 bucks, it was the same size, and worked like a charm. Also was made from metel so not breaking every 2 seconds,

 

Thank you sir!

 

Again for everyone who wants the coupler here it is

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AIS-5-6821/

I think everyone is buying them out at summit (-=

 

AEM intake for sale complete...

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/parts-66/aem-cold-air-intake-dryflo-cobalt-ss-tc-192593/

 

Yeah did u see the estimated ship date lol ..... like a 25 day wait hehe.

 

subscribed

 

Ok I just read through the last 16 pages and I wanted to recap and ask a few more questions to get this clarified not only for myself but for others reading this thread. Please help in answering the following questions, it would be greatly appreciated:

Could this mod possibly have any adverse effects on the MAF reading and/or on the engine as a whole especially on those of us with a stock tune?

Could the dealership give you s**t for this mod as in being difficult with warranty work (yes I know it is very hard to see this mod without actually removing the airbox or headlight)?

Does this mod in any way increase the risk of water ingestion into the engine?

Will gains with this mod be seen with tunes such as Superchips or GM Stage I?

(silly question) Does it actually make the Turbo/BPV louder compared to a stock intake or stock w/ K&N only?

 

It does not affect MAF readings enough to matter.

I doubt the dealership would notice, especially if the work is done clean.

If anything, it would reduce the risk of ingesting water since the snorkel is pointing downward. Realistically, I doubt it makes a difference.

Gains are small, but would exist with any of thos mods in place.

Yes, it is slightly louder because you are shortening the intake path.

 

Awesome thank you Matt

And if I'm not mistaken this is what you want to do with the snorkel once it is removed correct?

 

^^^Exacto

 

got the GM stg kit , CIA dnpipe , would this do anything really to help those. I know that there are mostly theories , but hopefully I can get to the dyno with in the day.

 

Any developments yet?

 

Good stuff. I like to order a separate Stock Airbox from GM (don't know the cost) and have an alternative in case anything goes wrong I could switch back the origional airbox back on.

 

You dont modify the airbox at all, so that would be a waste. You modify the snorkel that attaches to the airbox

 

so basically I need to order the snorkal from GM plus the AEM intake hose?

 

Just remove the snorkel and fugeddaboudit!

The AEM hose isn't worth the $160. Stock turbo inlet pipe flows fine.

 

Can you post a pic of what you did so we can see what to do? I'm interested in doing this but I was going to see if Matt (ZZP) found a way to do the mod without the AEM coupler.

 

I don't have the airbox mod on the car currently and the stock airbox is up in the attic. Just remove the section going down into the fender well (snorkel). It's all in the beginning of this thread that Matt posted.

You don't have to cut the snorkel off and reattach the bell end. Just put a 3" silicone coupler through the hole the snorkel went through if you want colder air than what's in the engine compartment.

The stock pipe from the turbo to the airbox flows fine the way it is. The AEM tube isn't necessary.

 

The AEM tube was worth about 5-6whp over the stock intake tube.

 

Thanks Matt, I couldn't see any flow difference with HPT, I stand corrected.

 

That suprises me becasue they both neck down to the same size and the AEM tube has a really sharp 90* bend in it.

 

Subd so I can do this later.

 

it may neck down, but the way its designed, it causes less airflow turbulance. The less turbulance there is the more volume can be pushed through.

 

Summit racing doesn't have pics of the elbow.

Does it include the piece that the BPV hose connects to? The connection just after the MAF sensor? I ask because mine just broke. I think I have it temporarily working with some hot glue... but I'm going to need something different.
Oh FYI... I can't get it warrantied. I'm at nearly 38K miles.

EDIT: Just saw pics on the first page.

I don't need the old one from the old intake right? I mean you don't have to cut it off and clamp it to the silicone do you? That silicone piece has the connection already? I see a clamp on it...

 

Refer to posts 71;74-thats what I used with a little silicone when I had the coupler installed.