You're far from the norm here though

No doubt it's possible, the average joe isn't going to be able to accomplish this feat without your knowledge of the controller or some serious hypermiling. I've done 30mpg before too, running E no less. Problem is, it wasn't any fun!

I'd rather see 24-25MPG driving spiritedly

 

I get 27-28 with some spirited driving and cruising 75ish. If I stay out of spirited driving (50miles of commute daily) I get 30-32 without trying to extreme hypermile (accelerate like a normal person, use DFCO, and try not to come to a complete stop at a light if i can help it)

 

My gas is 100% compensated, so I'm not driving for ultimate fuel mileage. I typically cruise on the HWY in 4th gear, rolling into it wherever it's curvy or open because I enjoy feeding my inner ricer. I unfortunately have quite a bit of stop and go city driving as well. I cruise around in 3rd on the streets because it's just more fun

Either way, I feel fortunate to not have to worry about fuel mileage.

 

Yeah I'd drive like that if I wasnt paying also. Makes a difference at the end of the week for me (granted it's like a gallon or two of fuel per week that adds up)

 

It's new clutch time for me


4th gear just isn't holding the torque like it use to. Doesn't slip 1-3 WOT but does in 4th.Can't say that I'm surprised though. Car has 77K miles on it and I'm not sure of the PO's driving habits but I've driven it pretty damn hard. I've pushed it pretty hard with E and the K04R too

Once I get into my new home in February, I will be throwing a brand new stocker/FW in. I'd like to try the GMPP but don't like the stories I've heard about the clutch release point being so close to the floor.

 

Mines not near the floor, it's about mid pedal, I love my GMPP

 

i'll be throwing in a GMPP clutch setup this spring.

 

^^ my gmpp isn't to close imo it's like 1-2" off the floor give or take. I like it tho u have room to let the clutch out a tiny bit without engaging it.

 

Pushing the limits of the knock threshold is part of it. first flash kr is moot at best unless you're dumb and get happy with the lead time. cam timing plays into as well and where to bleed off compression, and other things.

 

That sounds about like the stocker? I wonder why folks have been saying that it was such a low engagement point?

 

It's a damn close to a stocker, I don't notice a significant difference when I go to tune folks with a stock clutch. It could be installer errror that has caused some issues

 

My gmpp is like my stock lnf clutch before it got a little wore and engaged a little farther off the floor. Good clutch, don't know the longevity of it yet. It has held about 5psi off the line with slicks.
Gas mileage- on my 3.82 trans running 60mph on flatter highways I could average 35 mph on 93. 4.45 gears I doubt I could match that.

 

I've got about 40k of abuse including stop go traffic on my gmpp plus about 10k of not beating on it

 

Wow, 10k is pretty good.

 

That's about what I've driven since I found out I have one cylinder 4% lower on compression, wot pulls don't happen much anymore

 

If you dropped the subframe doing the engine swap, which is highly likely, your cradle could be in a different alignment than it was when you got an alignment before the swap unless you marked where it was at and reinstalled with the marks lined up.

 

thanks. ive been focusing on spark and cam timing for bleed off at cruising speeds. Talked to MikeM173 about false knock so im going through that in my datalogs. haven't done too much WOT changes because my clutch slips with stock timing and 21psi in 3rd. lol.

I thought about that. I think its out of alignment as far as steering wheel position. but for toe in/out im thinking it should be fine. I didn't mess with the tie rod ends at all. and we cant adjust camber so that solves that.

 

im mid 30 to upper 30's on cruising timing with it ramping down nearing boost levels. toe in at wot is, 24 psi and over 11 degree's {91 winter fuel here} and peaks over 17 degree's at wot following the boost drop off to 22 psi at 6k i stopped there as there was other issues found with the block so im not doing anything else with it. fuel trims with the injen intake and charge pipes are -.3%.

zero kr. under 6 ms at peak torque.

Could i push it more, yes, am i going to? nope. no point when mechanical issues sprung up. {porus block}

Just takes time is all, which is why i hate dyno tuning them due to the learning curve of the ecm itself.

 

Thanks for the insight. ill worry about WOT timing when I get a new clutch. could get really interesting if I put on my K04R and hit up the E station near me. no point in doing it now when I have to keep the boost down to 19-20psi and im still having to boost ramp a lot in my torque/gear table in 3rd-5th. yes, I know I could keep boost even lower and get the same power with more timing. im at about 32-34 degrees timing in my cruise sections (40-80 load, 2-3k rpm), smoothed out to the cells around it for a couple rows/columns but im going through it again and looking more at my charts and less at my graphs to verify if it's false knock or not when it happens. then on to cam timing to help mileage. then ill be trying to grasp injection angle & OP spark stuff.


yes, yes it does. lots of time. with these cars a dyno tune would be great for peak hp/tq and WOT tuning, but cant really get a custom tune that fits your driving style in all conditions when it's strapped to the rollers.

 

i have torque management active in the the low side of 4th and 5th so no downshifting is required for passing with the risk of shitting the rods out of the block. works great actually.

the current, fastest HHR is on an k04r. i hate that turbo.. over priced for what you get.

 

You think an r is expensive for what you get, the + that ecaulk and I run is twice the price......

 

Found out quickly on my initial tune that partial throttle in 4th or 5th gear would land me into 220+kpa on the lo res, damn near **** myself looking at that log command lambda was 1.00

Don't have much experience with the R, but my + was significantly more than the R is. Not sure how the R lasts compared to the + but I'm near 50k on mine without issue.

 

Consider your additional expenses a better investment than mine. You all know why.

 

I think the wheel on the r is just too big and impacts how long the turbo lasts. No doubt they are inexpensive and can be a bump in power, but the compressor housing is just too small to make it a lot more effective than the +.

 

same here due to clutch slip and not wanting to replace my trans.

my turbo was on it's way out, so I ordered one. figured support small business, price was right. then my engine/turbo died and I got a low mile LHU complete with a turbo with no shaft play. so im on the fence on what to do with the KO4R. sell or install...