GMS1 sensors
Yeah Ill let you know how it goes. Ive gotten tips from other members that did it and the general consensus was to take your time and double check your wiring. That and follow the GMS1 install instructions to the tee. Right down to using red loctite on the bolts since your down to using one from two bolts. Otherwise its straightforward if your good with wiring.
It's not hard, just make sure you get the correct tools and all the correct hardware (crimp tool, connectors, etc.) I would recommend getting some shrink sleeves to go over the connections too, to make sure they are water proof.
Senior Member
Joined: 06-22-09
Posts: 5,989
Likes: 7
From: Kathmandu
This is the kind of crap I refuse to do to my car. I'm not mounting a sensor in my charge piping with one less bolt and increasing boost by 8 PSI. It's ridiculous. The TMAP in the coldside doesn't even fit to the right angle where the connector is unobstructed. Ridiculous, I say.
It's because this kit sucks. The sensor weren't really designed for the Cobalt. They just used some sensors that they already had out for the Sky/Solstice and included instructions on how to "make them work," included some pigtails, charged an arm and a leg, then called it a go.
This is the kind of crap I refuse to do to my car. I'm not mounting a sensor in my charge piping with one less bolt and increasing boost by 8 PSI. It's ridiculous. The TMAP in the coldside doesn't even fit to the right angle where the connector is unobstructed. Ridiculous, I say.
This is the kind of crap I refuse to do to my car. I'm not mounting a sensor in my charge piping with one less bolt and increasing boost by 8 PSI. It's ridiculous. The TMAP in the coldside doesn't even fit to the right angle where the connector is unobstructed. Ridiculous, I say.
Senior Member
Joined: 06-22-09
Posts: 5,989
Likes: 7
From: Kathmandu
I may be too picky, but I want stuff to fit right. This is the same reason I hate that damn crazy steve IC so much.
Understandable...that whole one bolt thing is exactly what my buddy said. Saying that one of those sensors is the last place you wanna have a leak...and having a single bolt on one side of the sensor seems like it would do that...
Agreed that its kind of a 'rig job' and that GM is charging an arm and a leg for sensors and a tune, but if done correctly it works just fine. The sensor that goes on the CP has a little nub on it that needs to be cut off for it to sit flush. Thats the problem people are having with leaks, the little nub hasnt been trimmed.
Think about it, if people didnt want to modify the MAP sensor on the intake mani next to the SC on an SS/SC then no one would have a TVS on there. Sometimes, you have to make things work in order to get more out of a car. Thats what modding is all about. It would be a wonderful world if every single car in production had aftermarket parts made to fit each specific vehicle. Then again that would be too easy.
As far as the 'one bolt' thing goes, the instructions say specifically to use some red loctite so it doesnt come loose and back out or something. You can also use a little RTV to seal it even more if you are so inclined. Trimming the nub, using the loctite and a little RTV should be sufficient to keep that CP sensor in place.
Just my two cents
Think about it, if people didnt want to modify the MAP sensor on the intake mani next to the SC on an SS/SC then no one would have a TVS on there. Sometimes, you have to make things work in order to get more out of a car. Thats what modding is all about. It would be a wonderful world if every single car in production had aftermarket parts made to fit each specific vehicle. Then again that would be too easy.
As far as the 'one bolt' thing goes, the instructions say specifically to use some red loctite so it doesnt come loose and back out or something. You can also use a little RTV to seal it even more if you are so inclined. Trimming the nub, using the loctite and a little RTV should be sufficient to keep that CP sensor in place.
Just my two cents
Agreed that its kind of a 'rig job' and that GM is charging an arm and a leg for sensors and a tune, but if done correctly it works just fine. The sensor that goes on the CP has a little nub on it that needs to be cut off for it to sit flush. Thats the problem people are having with leaks, the little nub hasnt been trimmed.
Think about it, if people didnt want to modify the MAP sensor on the intake mani next to the SC on an SS/SC then no one would have a TVS on there. Sometimes, you have to make things work in order to get more out of a car. Thats what modding is all about. It would be a wonderful world if every single car in production had aftermarket parts made to fit each specific vehicle. Then again that would be too easy.
As far as the 'one bolt' thing goes, the instructions say specifically to use some red loctite so it doesnt come loose and back out or something. You can also use a little RTV to seal it even more if you are so inclined. Trimming the nub, using the loctite and a little RTV should be sufficient to keep that CP sensor in place.
Just my two cents
Think about it, if people didnt want to modify the MAP sensor on the intake mani next to the SC on an SS/SC then no one would have a TVS on there. Sometimes, you have to make things work in order to get more out of a car. Thats what modding is all about. It would be a wonderful world if every single car in production had aftermarket parts made to fit each specific vehicle. Then again that would be too easy.
As far as the 'one bolt' thing goes, the instructions say specifically to use some red loctite so it doesnt come loose and back out or something. You can also use a little RTV to seal it even more if you are so inclined. Trimming the nub, using the loctite and a little RTV should be sufficient to keep that CP sensor in place.
Just my two cents
Senior Member
Joined: 06-22-09
Posts: 5,989
Likes: 7
From: Kathmandu
Someone on here had the install done and the tech actually put a metal bracket over the sensor to hold it in, and the bracket used both bolt holes. It was a pretty cool setup, but I can't remember who it was.
lol
Update:
I got the sensors on and wired. Everything seems great and the car pulls just like it used to. I did not use the loctite like suggested in the instructions but I may go tback and add some of the blue stuff on there for peace of mind. I soldered the wires and shrinkwrapped the connections to seal them from the elements. I also put a larger black shrinkwrap sleeve on all four wires to make it look cleaner. Then I wrapped that in some wire loom. A little over the top? Sure, but I like the clean stock look lol
Of course you need an updated tune with modified values for the new sensors to read properly, that should go without saying, but just in case.
The resaon I did this is because for some reason while on my 24psi tune if I NLS the stock MAP would blow and stop working. Ive done a few NLS with the new sensors on the tune with no ill effects so it seems to be holding up. Ill post up a long term update if anything changes.
I got the sensors on and wired. Everything seems great and the car pulls just like it used to. I did not use the loctite like suggested in the instructions but I may go tback and add some of the blue stuff on there for peace of mind. I soldered the wires and shrinkwrapped the connections to seal them from the elements. I also put a larger black shrinkwrap sleeve on all four wires to make it look cleaner. Then I wrapped that in some wire loom. A little over the top? Sure, but I like the clean stock look lol
Of course you need an updated tune with modified values for the new sensors to read properly, that should go without saying, but just in case.
The resaon I did this is because for some reason while on my 24psi tune if I NLS the stock MAP would blow and stop working. Ive done a few NLS with the new sensors on the tune with no ill effects so it seems to be holding up. Ill post up a long term update if anything changes.
Update:
I got the sensors on and wired. Everything seems great and the car pulls just like it used to. I did not use the loctite like suggested in the instructions but I may go tback and add some of the blue stuff on there for peace of mind. I soldered the wires and shrinkwrapped the connections to seal them from the elements. I also put a larger black shrinkwrap sleeve on all four wires to make it look cleaner. Then I wrapped that in some wire loom. A little over the top? Sure, but I like the clean stock look lol
Of course you need an updated tune with modified values for the new sensors to read properly, that should go without saying, but just in case.
The resaon I did this is because for some reason while on my 24psi tune if I NLS the stock MAP would blow and stop working. Ive done a few NLS with the new sensors on the tune with no ill effects so it seems to be holding up. Ill post up a long term update if anything changes.
I got the sensors on and wired. Everything seems great and the car pulls just like it used to. I did not use the loctite like suggested in the instructions but I may go tback and add some of the blue stuff on there for peace of mind. I soldered the wires and shrinkwrapped the connections to seal them from the elements. I also put a larger black shrinkwrap sleeve on all four wires to make it look cleaner. Then I wrapped that in some wire loom. A little over the top? Sure, but I like the clean stock look lol
Of course you need an updated tune with modified values for the new sensors to read properly, that should go without saying, but just in case.
The resaon I did this is because for some reason while on my 24psi tune if I NLS the stock MAP would blow and stop working. Ive done a few NLS with the new sensors on the tune with no ill effects so it seems to be holding up. Ill post up a long term update if anything changes.
where'd you get the sensors from? on a scale of 1 to 10 how hard was it? I do alot of soldering and all that so that shouldn't be a problem. I replaced my stock MAP sensor didn't fix anything. So I ordered a stock TMAP...hopefully that will do something. If not, I'll 3bar them and have Vince retune me. Thanks for the input...
I bought the sensor kit with pigtails from PerformanceAtutoWerks for 89 bucks. Its a good deal. You can get the sensors alone from CED for only 16 dollars but the pigtails are like 80 bucks each! lol
As far as difficulty goes, it was pretty easy for the top sensor. Soldering up there was a breeze. The bottom CP sensor was more of a beotch cause we had to solder from underneath the car. You may find another way to do the bottom one but thats how it worked out for me. Just make sure that you follow the wiring properly. The part you really need to pay attention to in the instructions is the wiring on the hanesses. Just make sure you check and triple check tht you have it correct. Also, a dremel will make your life way easier to trim that nub off the bottom sensor.
One more thing, for some reason my kit only had one o-ring so I had to go searching for a second one. I bought an injector o-ring kit from Autozone that had some that were the correct thickness but just a little too wide and caused the sensor to pop up or sit wrong. So I took the dremel to it and sanded it down just a bit and rounded it off LOL I lubed it up and it fit perfectly on the sensor and the sensor sat flush.
That is all
Last edited by cubaniche; Sep 21, 2010 at 12:00 PM.
First, thats weird that you replaced the sensor with no change. Did you say you were getting a code or just boosting weird with no CEL?
I bought the sensor kit with pigtails from PerformanceAtutoWerks for 89 bucks. Its a good deal. You can get the sensors alone from CED for only 16 dollars but the pigtails are like 80 bucks each! lol
As far as difficulty goes, it was pretty easy for the top sensor. Soldering up there was a breeze. The bottom CP sensor was more of a beotch cause we had to solder from underneath the car. You may find another way to do the bottom one but thats how it worked out for me. Just make sure that you follow the wiring properly. The part you really need to pay attention to in the instructions is the wiring on the hanesses. Just make sure you check and triple check tht you have it correct. Also, a dremel will make your life way easier to trim that nub off the bottom sensor.
One more thing, for some reason my kit only had one o-ring so I had to go searching for a second one. I bought an injector o-ring kit from Autozone that had some that were the correct thickness but just a little too wide and caused the sensor to pop up or sit wrong. So I took the dremel to it and sanded it down just a bit and rounded it off LOL I lubed it up and it fit perfectly on the sensor and the sensor sat flush.
That is all
I bought the sensor kit with pigtails from PerformanceAtutoWerks for 89 bucks. Its a good deal. You can get the sensors alone from CED for only 16 dollars but the pigtails are like 80 bucks each! lol
As far as difficulty goes, it was pretty easy for the top sensor. Soldering up there was a breeze. The bottom CP sensor was more of a beotch cause we had to solder from underneath the car. You may find another way to do the bottom one but thats how it worked out for me. Just make sure that you follow the wiring properly. The part you really need to pay attention to in the instructions is the wiring on the hanesses. Just make sure you check and triple check tht you have it correct. Also, a dremel will make your life way easier to trim that nub off the bottom sensor.
One more thing, for some reason my kit only had one o-ring so I had to go searching for a second one. I bought an injector o-ring kit from Autozone that had some that were the correct thickness but just a little too wide and caused the sensor to pop up or sit wrong. So I took the dremel to it and sanded it down just a bit and rounded it off LOL I lubed it up and it fit perfectly on the sensor and the sensor sat flush.
That is all
So it came with instructions and everything I guess?
Oh okay. Well, yes, the kit came with instructions but even if it didnt you can download the GMS1 install .pdf from CED.com
Its really nor that big a deal man. The soldering doesnt take long if you know what your doing. And the tuning isnt, like, real tunning. It just involves a change to the values of the MAP tables so they read right is all. Vince sent me the revised tune the next day after I asked for it. Then you just load it up and, voila, your done.
Let me know what happens when you replace that TMAP.
Its really nor that big a deal man. The soldering doesnt take long if you know what your doing. And the tuning isnt, like, real tunning. It just involves a change to the values of the MAP tables so they read right is all. Vince sent me the revised tune the next day after I asked for it. Then you just load it up and, voila, your done.
Let me know what happens when you replace that TMAP.
Oh okay. Well, yes, the kit came with instructions but even if it didnt you can download the GMS1 install .pdf from CED.com
Its really nor that big a deal man. The soldering doesnt take long if you know what your doing. And the tuning isnt, like, real tunning. It just involves a change to the values of the MAP tables so they read right is all. Vince sent me the revised tune the next day after I asked for it. Then you just load it up and, voila, your done.
Let me know what happens when you replace that TMAP.
Its really nor that big a deal man. The soldering doesnt take long if you know what your doing. And the tuning isnt, like, real tunning. It just involves a change to the values of the MAP tables so they read right is all. Vince sent me the revised tune the next day after I asked for it. Then you just load it up and, voila, your done.
Let me know what happens when you replace that TMAP.
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