The tape will be ok but it is not a permanent solution. The connector should snap in. Sometimes it takes a little effort to snap it place. There is a seal and the force to snap compresses the seal and seals the connection from water. I just checked a couple of pieces and it takes only about 1 to 2 pounds of force to get it seated and locked. once locked you sould not be able to pull the connection apart ( don't use more than a couple of pounds of force toi try and pull it apart ) If for some reason the lock is broken a more permanent soulition would be to rig a tie wrap some how.

Bill

 

Thanks bill, when i push it in it seems to be in place. I think mine is a clearance issue and the release lever is getting pushed under hard acceleration. I don't think there is anything a dealer would do except blame my intercooler setup.

I'm going to just wrap it in place and it shouldn't pull out.

 

aight guys....i went to the dealer today an i ran into some issues maybe you can help. i bought the kit in like the end of august and just waited for the tune to come out and when i went in today to have the kit installed i was told it was the wrong kit. now i bought it through a gm parts dealer using the part number posted on here but basically when the tech called it in they said the kit was an older version and it wasnt compatible with the TC. any ideas?

 

When I talked to my dealer, he was telling me (initally ) that the kit included injectors , and would upgrade the HP from 205 to 230.


Ding Ding Ding ! Wrong kit - that's the LNJ ( supecharged ) version !

Ours is P/N 19212670 - if that is what you got, then you have the correct one , and the dealer is confused.

My thoughts, anyhoo - Britt

 

true true...i have the 19212670 kit

so after talking to dealers and **** all day and getting pretty much no where the only real question i have to ask you guys is this. is there a difference besides the tune in the kit for the hhr and the kit for the cobalt? im basically being told my kit is to old (i bought it two months ago) and that there is a new one out

 

they are full of ****, they just want to sell u a whole new one and make money. its just a map sensor, how is that to old.

 

True - the part number for the kit as a whole is the same for every platform. The part number for each mechanical piece of the kit is the same for every platform. The only difference is the part number associated with each vehicle's calibration. Take the new instructions posted on CED or GMTuner site and print them out for your dealer.

 

Find a new dealer to install it, sounds like you will run into a bunch of problems with that one if something goes wrong with the install.

 

One major thing to keep in mind, if you don't have the authorization code with you at the dealer that you got on the original instructions in your kit you're pretty much screwed... without that they won't/can't flash your ecm and your pretty much stuck with buying a brand new stage kit for that 8 digit code. I was pretty much in that situation today, so make sure you don't get stuck!

 

Is there an individual 'code' for each kit sold? Or is it one universal code that's been released for all 08/09/10 TC'd cars?

 

There is an individual "activation code" for each kit. On the very first page of the original directions inside the kit is the alpha/numeric code, 8 digits (pretty sure 8) that will be specific to the VIN of the car when installed.

 

How do the splice connectors work? Crimp or heat gun?

 

Both! You crimp them and them heat them. They have sealer in them that melts and seals them from water.

 

I offer a shiny new penny to the first person to post an in car driving video with GMS1 installed.

 

did you replace the rubber O Ring with the new ones GM supplied in the kit.

The new O Rings are thicker. perhaps that is why your sensor keeps popping up

 

i have an authorization code but GM keeps saying its invalid. keep in mind i bought my kit from a GM parts dealer

 

I bought mine from CED which is a GM parts dealer as well... and the code works. Are you sure you didn't mix mp "authorization code" and "vehicle pin"?

 

im pretty sure. the authorization code is the decal on the front page correct

 

Yes the autorization number is the sticker on the front page of the instructions. Don't loose it because if you do it is extremely hard to replace.

 

Yes that's it. They'll need to put that into the computer to get your tune to flash your ecm

 

no i have it but apparently that **** doesnt work lol

 

Go back to where you bought it from and tell them what's going on.

 

im waiting on a answer from an engineer now lol.....the stage kit has been the bane of my existence

 

I kind of have the same thing going on. bought mine from crateenginedepot but they say the authorization code doesn't match my VIN and can't the flash.. Like WTF? no response from crate yet.

 

The authorization code doesn't have to match your VIN. Authorization codes just allow the Tech line to unlock the calibration for the dealer to down load. The only requirement is you have the Turbo LNF engine.