2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

Grinding/pressure sound....

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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 10:45 AM
  #26  
reign1's Avatar
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From: SO CAL
will do. possibly going in today
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 11:29 AM
  #27  
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From: Sunshine State
Do the brakes make the noise when they're cold? Or does it increase when they're cold? This might be your problem or at least part of it. Your rotors are made of cast iron. In humid weather, when you park the car at night, the rotors cool and the humidity condenses on the rotors and they will develop a VERY thin coating of rust. If you don'e drive the car for a couple of days the rust will become thicker. After this resting period when you let the parking brake off sometimes the pads will actually STICK to the rotors and won't break loose till you start moving. Living in FL I've had them hook up so bad that when I start moving they actually sound like a gun going off. A VERY SMALL GUN. Until I travel a ways when I hit the brakes they will grind because they are scraping the rust off the rotors. Just dragging the brakes very lightly for a couple hundred yards will clean them off and everythings good again. I'm NOT saying this is the cause of EVERYBODYS noise but a lot of owners are not aware of this phenomenon and panic. But if your brakes are dragging all the time, hot or cold, you have other problems and I'm sorry I wasted your time.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 02:01 AM
  #28  
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From: Victoria
If it makes noise when decelerating without pressing the brake, then it's probably the clutch or transmission. My car makes a pretty loud noise like a whole bunch of tiny ball bearings rattling around when I let off the gas, and it's done that since day 1. After 20,000 miles it still performs well so I'm not too worried, but it's not a nice sound. This is not an uncommon issue with Cobalt and HHR SS's.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 10:25 AM
  #29  
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From: SO CAL
ok I got the car back. the dealer said that the rear brakes were down to the sensors. ill pay attention more next time. lol

Replaced the pads and turned the rotors for free. go Gm warranty

now it seems that my brakes are a little spongy now. not AS responsive. any suggestions?
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 11:19 AM
  #30  
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From: Florida
Originally Posted by reign1
ok I got the car back. the dealer said that the rear brakes were down to the sensors. ill pay attention more next time. lol

Replaced the pads and turned the rotors for free. go Gm warranty

now it seems that my brakes are a little spongy now. not AS responsive. any suggestions?
They need to be bled properly.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 11:44 AM
  #31  
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From: Sunshine State
Originally Posted by Terminator2
They need to be bled properly.
Or MAYBE they replaced the pads with aftermarket pads that won't wear out so fast. A harder material than stock. I mean everybody's complaining about brake noise and dust and a harder pad media would solve those problems at the expense of performance. Of course you're not going to have the same braking feel or ability and the pedal may feel a little "mushy" or require a little more PRESSURE on the pedal to make the car stop. The stock brakes were designed for a car running on the Nurgburgring and breaking the existing track record for a FWD, 2 liter car by 13 seconds, with the brakes that came on the car. High performance brakes.

By the way. Changing brake pads does NOT require the brakes to be bled. Only when you open the system to the atmosphere, at any point other than at the brake fluid resevoir, and allow air to enter do you have to bleed them. Opening the bleeder WOULD require the brakes to be bled.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 12:55 PM
  #32  
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From: SO CAL
Ill look at the papers and see if it was just a replacement pad or something. it was a GM dealer so they wouldnt put aftermarket i wouldnt think.

think i should take it back term and ask them to bleed the brakes right?
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 01:03 PM
  #33  
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From: Florida
Originally Posted by reign1
Ill look at the papers and see if it was just a replacement pad or something. it was a GM dealer so they wouldnt put aftermarket i wouldnt think.

think i should take it back term and ask them to bleed the brakes right?
Yes. If they replaced the pads they should have properly bled the brakes to begin with. If the pedal feels spongy they need to be bled again (assuming they bled them in the first place).
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 01:05 PM
  #34  
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From: knoxville tn
Originally Posted by BYT*SS*TURBO
Its those damn rear brakes!! Mine did that until I changed the pads and greased the calipers correctly!!
man i put the grease on the wrong side of the brake bad and it made that noise, it goes away though. i felt like a dumb ass it took about 3 to 4 weeks to go away
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 03:21 PM
  #35  
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From: canada
Originally Posted by Bigmacss/sc
man i put the grease on the wrong side of the brake bad and it made that noise, it goes away though. i felt like a dumb ass it took about 3 to 4 weeks to go away
how do u even greese the rear pads, half the pad isnt even touching anything, well the outside one anyway. I need to buy some for the inside pad, maybe my horrible sqeeking will go away.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 04:09 PM
  #36  
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From: SO CAL
my squeak said that is was down to the sensor. lol
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