Ok sounds good keep us posted

 

Of course they are going to charge you because of the upgrades lol. Your problem sounds either like the solenoid or the bypass valve.

 

Just got done installing the AEM revised intake. Here is a photo.





so far no CEL or other issues to indicate. Car sounds like a dog sneezing when you shift hard between gears into higher RPMS. LOL

 

Ok so my new sensors are in (the mechanic said they basically just got me a new kit) so hopefully they reflash it too, altho they did say they did not boost leak test it, which they will do when they do the install. Also Im going to have them solder the wires. After all this, the car should be back to 100%, instead of the ~80% percent it feels like its running.

it is going in on tuesday 8/10

 

Ok deff keep us posted. I'm interested to see the outcome.

 

Intake looks good.

 

I have a k&n intake I'm dying to put on. I had it on but it made the fluttering sound worse than it was so I took it off..

 

Ok guys got rid of alot of the flutter last night by bypassing the vac tank. There is still a tiny bit of flutter. Something wierd tho is with the k&n on I hear a high pitch squeel coming from my intake when I'm in max boost. It's not the intake it's self, it sounds like it's coming from the turbo? What could it be? Could the bpv be weak and not holding shut at full boost. Could that be why my car doesn't pull like it used to. That would cause a boost leak right?

 

It could be that. Yes the BPV not seating will cause a boost leak.

 

Ok....what's the best way to make sure it's seated because it's hard to do. Any pointers. The noise isn't noticable with the stock air Box on, just with the intake because the intake magnifies so much. I'll see if I can get it seen to this weekend.

 

I assume you would have to pull the turbo to get a look at the BPV seat. That sounds like a pain.

 

I had the same issues as the car in the video as well as all the others. PURGE SOLENOID is the culprit guys had the diagnose done. 33 dollars and 5 min later 24.5 PSI and flying. Drove to airport and back MPG went up to 33.3 and was climbing till i hit city. Was amazeing. I reccommend everyone who is haveing this problem get a Purge solenoid from local dealer asap.

PURGE SOLENOID, lemme know if this fixes this issue for you guys becuase it did for me.

 

The EVAP purge solenoid would cause a vac leak.

 

On the way home from work last Friday I thought my car felt sluggish in 2nd. I figured whatever I'm tired, not paying attention I'll worry about it later. Did a fair amount of driving on the weekend and for the most part it felt fine, though on the way home I started to question if the A/C clutch was stuck because even 5th felt...wrong...on the highway.

On the way home from work today I felt it again. This time I knew something was wrong so I waited until I got to the main street (somewhat back-road) that leads to my neighbourhood. I put the gas absolutely to the floor in 2nd and watched the boost gauge stop at 0. I swear the car had about as much power as my g/f's Aveo running on 2 cylinders, it was ridiculous it went nowhere. I tried 3rd and instantly felt the pick-up I was expecting, though because of where I was I couldn't open it up. Friend also suggested I check the purge solenoid but first I'm going to run the same test in the morning since it seems to happen one start and not the next. It'll be off to the dealer, first thing I'm recommending they check is the solenoid. If it were a boost leak I would expect every gear to fall no its face, same if the TMAP was rubbing/moving. I have had 0 engine codes show up so I'll see how it goes tomorrow.

 

A reliable car?? Don't buy a Nissan then.

Its been mentioned before, the 370Z's have brake problems. Car and Driver had the brakes fail within the first couple laps and put a brand new 370Z into the wall at Virginia International Raceway. No other cars in the test, including the SS T/C, had any brake problems at all.

Nissan's VQ is also a pile, they are very harsh revving engines (V6 w/o balance shafts), and they sound quite raspy and have a propensity to burn oil at higher mileage. Its a good looking car, but I would never buy a Nissan.

If you want a fast, reliable car, get a '11 Camaro or Mustang.

 

Or better yet ~ a Challenger!!

 

I know the GT is faster, but the Challenger sure is a better looking car. Those things are just SWEET. Too bad they're horribly overpriced.

 

I thought the GT just bumped itself up somewhere close to Challenger SRT8 power levels - after having a huge deficit for several years...

but if I had the money, I'd go for the less powerful Challenger RT... because as I've understood it the SRT is a fully loeaded car - whereas the RT is a more stripped down car...
plus te cost savings can go towards a SC kit or something, if you really need the extra power ~ and then you'ld likely be more powerful than the SRT, while still in it for less...

 

Challenger is nice, but it just can't touch the GT or SS in the handling department. The T/T drives like a boat compared to those two.

The Challenger R/T is just more of a boulevard cruiser than an all out performance car, which some people may actually prefer.

 

I've been having loss of boost as well. My loss of power happens on start up though. If I turn the car off then start it again it goes back to normal. It finally gave me a code p0236 yesterday so I dropped it off at the dealer again. They said they would check everything this time!

 

that's one way to see it...

unfortunately these days the manufactureers look at cars this way;

bigger/more powerful engine = car fully loaded with options

I like the RT because it doesn't come with all the extras the SRT comes with...

Then again if I could have I'd have ordered my SS/TC as essentially a base model - no onstar, no p/w, so sunroof, no spoiler, no additinal airbags, ect...

but that's just me...

[/tangent]

 

if anybody said Mustang like the V6 (3.7 or 4.0), guess where the transmisson is made at?



HELL NO! Your not seeing me driving in that. I call that the Chinese Fordstang. I wish I took a picture when I was at the Ford Dealer looking at Mustangs and price stickers and finding where the parts came from, until I saw China on the transmission and USA on the engine. Here is a forum about the tranny made in China, I kid you not http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ade-china.html.

 

Just so you know, a lot of the Cobalt parts are made in Israel. I realize that American made cars have foreign parts, but we are still keeping profits here in the US.

 

My Cobalt won't take shiat off nobody !

I suspect you will see more Chinese parts as time goes on, in lieu of Hecho in Mexico.


I agree w/ the profit side in the US !!

Now, back to your regularly scheduled thread.

Britt

 

Your X..