installing aftermarket gauges
theres a difference noob. thats what maven is trying to tell you.
if ur gonna do any modifying to your car, do it right the first time. if u want a wideband, get an AEM UEGO or any other reliable brand that sells WIDEBAND A/F gauges.
quit the cheap **** and save your money if you cant afford it right now. you will be much happier in the long run.
if ur gonna do any modifying to your car, do it right the first time. if u want a wideband, get an AEM UEGO or any other reliable brand that sells WIDEBAND A/F gauges.
quit the cheap **** and save your money if you cant afford it right now. you will be much happier in the long run.
im getting some evil racing gauges for the saab...on my cobalt i have a glow shift boost gauge...its not too hard to wire them up...i did all the wiring for my boost guage as well as my a/f and turbo timer
they arent to hard to wire....one fo the wires is a constant 12v and then theres 2 that are 12v switched and then you have a ground...so 4 wires total
they arent to hard to wire....one fo the wires is a constant 12v and then theres 2 that are 12v switched and then you have a ground...so 4 wires total
Last edited by mrsilent13; Jan 19, 2009 at 06:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
theres a difference noob. thats what maven is trying to tell you.
if ur gonna do any modifying to your car, do it right the first time. if u want a wideband, get an AEM UEGO or any other reliable brand that sells WIDEBAND A/F gauges.
quit the cheap **** and save your money if you cant afford it right now. you will be much happier in the long run.
if ur gonna do any modifying to your car, do it right the first time. if u want a wideband, get an AEM UEGO or any other reliable brand that sells WIDEBAND A/F gauges.
quit the cheap **** and save your money if you cant afford it right now. you will be much happier in the long run.
Dont tap into the stock sensor, if you really need a WB, spend the $300 or so and buy an AEM.
Last edited by Maven; Jan 19, 2009 at 07:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
yes same sensor, but i believe the stock ECU only reads rich or lean, whereas the wideband meter gives you a more precise reading. i could be wrong tho.
honestly im not sure what narrow band means but it just has 3 wires a power, ground and then the third wire obviously gets tapped into something? i just dont know what.
and i need to figure out some kind of adapter to adapt my oil sending unit for my aftermarket oil pressure gauge... Any ideas?
The stupid dealership wouldnt even touch it because it wasnt a direct replacement.
and i need to figure out some kind of adapter to adapt my oil sending unit for my aftermarket oil pressure gauge... Any ideas?
The stupid dealership wouldnt even touch it because it wasnt a direct replacement.
Last edited by Kerek112090; Aug 4, 2009 at 04:05 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I have my gauges tapped into the wiper fuse for power. Works b/c when the car is "ON" they light up and when i turn off the car they light up till I open the door. But, if I tap into the stock boost gauge power I imagine the dimmer switch on the dash will control how dim and bright they are? That would be cool.
And as far as A/F goes, Mnatvyc1223 I think its hilarioius that you say **** like "theres a difference noob. thats what maven is trying to tell you." and then next post you say "the wideband meter gives you a more precise reading. i could be wrong tho. " Not trying to bash you but dont follow up a NOOB by "I could be wrong"
SS/SC has a narrowband and if you buy a narrowband gauge you can tap into an ECU wire. I hear they are pretty useless though. I Have one for my SS/TC that is technically sold but still in the car, tried hooking it up to the sensor wire that goes to the ECU and I just got a CEL. No reading. For an SS/TC, I would recommend interceptors as they give you more information for cheaper than a straight wideband, But if your looking for the most absolute precise wideband reading to the "T" I would just get an AEM Wideband. Most people dont need to worry about this precision however.
And as far as A/F goes, Mnatvyc1223 I think its hilarioius that you say **** like "theres a difference noob. thats what maven is trying to tell you." and then next post you say "the wideband meter gives you a more precise reading. i could be wrong tho. " Not trying to bash you but dont follow up a NOOB by "I could be wrong"
I have always found the easiest way to wire anything in is to get an add-a-fuse or add-a-circuit. You can pick them up from Autozone, and I'm sure other retail chain auto parts stores have them. Then you just plug the add-a-fuse into the fuse box on a switched circuit and run your wire to it and you have a switched power source. No need for splicing or cutting.
I have my gauges tapped into the wiper fuse for power. Works b/c when the car is "ON" they light up and when i turn off the car they light up till I open the door. But, if I tap into the stock boost gauge power I imagine the dimmer switch on the dash will control how dim and bright they are? That would be cool.
And as far as A/F goes, Mnatvyc1223 I think its hilarioius that you say **** like "theres a difference noob. thats what maven is trying to tell you." and then next post you say "the wideband meter gives you a more precise reading. i could be wrong tho. " Not trying to bash you but dont follow up a NOOB by "I could be wrong"
SS/SC has a narrowband and if you buy a narrowband gauge you can tap into an ECU wire. I hear they are pretty useless though. I Have one for my SS/TC that is technically sold but still in the car, tried hooking it up to the sensor wire that goes to the ECU and I just got a CEL. No reading. For an SS/TC, I would recommend interceptors as they give you more information for cheaper than a straight wideband, But if your looking for the most absolute precise wideband reading to the "T" I would just get an AEM Wideband. Most people dont need to worry about this precision however.
And as far as A/F goes, Mnatvyc1223 I think its hilarioius that you say **** like "theres a difference noob. thats what maven is trying to tell you." and then next post you say "the wideband meter gives you a more precise reading. i could be wrong tho. " Not trying to bash you but dont follow up a NOOB by "I could be wrong"
http://www.autometer.com/cat_accesso...il.aspx?vid=62 assuming the sending unit is a 1/8" npt.
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I have my gauges tapped into the wiper fuse for power. Works b/c when the car is "ON" they light up and when i turn off the car they light up till I open the door. But, if I tap into the stock boost gauge power I imagine the dimmer switch on the dash will control how dim and bright they are? That would be cool.
And as far as A/F goes, Mnatvyc1223 I think its hilarioius that you say **** like "theres a difference noob. thats what maven is trying to tell you." and then next post you say "the wideband meter gives you a more precise reading. i could be wrong tho. " Not trying to bash you but dont follow up a NOOB by "I could be wrong"
SS/SC has a narrowband and if you buy a narrowband gauge you can tap into an ECU wire. I hear they are pretty useless though. I Have one for my SS/TC that is technically sold but still in the car, tried hooking it up to the sensor wire that goes to the ECU and I just got a CEL. No reading. For an SS/TC, I would recommend interceptors as they give you more information for cheaper than a straight wideband, But if your looking for the most absolute precise wideband reading to the "T" I would just get an AEM Wideband. Most people dont need to worry about this precision however.
And as far as A/F goes, Mnatvyc1223 I think its hilarioius that you say **** like "theres a difference noob. thats what maven is trying to tell you." and then next post you say "the wideband meter gives you a more precise reading. i could be wrong tho. " Not trying to bash you but dont follow up a NOOB by "I could be wrong"
i run a aem tru boost, aem oil pressure, and 3 interceptors(i had them before the other 2)..
i pull the a/f with my interceptor and its pretty dead on with the uego as far as the readings go. only difference i see is one has a scrolling light on it. for the record though maven is correct about true widebands....they cost $$$$$$
the pro sports arent hard to hook up at all
i pull the a/f with my interceptor and its pretty dead on with the uego as far as the readings go. only difference i see is one has a scrolling light on it. for the record though maven is correct about true widebands....they cost $$$$$$
the pro sports arent hard to hook up at all
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