its bad... really bad...
its bad... really bad...
well italianjoe is working on my car changing the pistons and this is what he found out...
http://s818.photobucket.com/albums/z...t=P1060428.jpg
and it should look like this
http://s818.photobucket.com/albums/z...t=P1060433.jpg
what we are going to do is send the block to Darton for them to have put sleeves in, bored out to stock bore and put in the new wisco pistons... and hopefully after that ill get my car back...
http://s818.photobucket.com/albums/z...t=P1060428.jpg
and it should look like this
http://s818.photobucket.com/albums/z...t=P1060433.jpg
what we are going to do is send the block to Darton for them to have put sleeves in, bored out to stock bore and put in the new wisco pistons... and hopefully after that ill get my car back...
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Joined: 04-19-09
Posts: 1,417
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From: Woodstock IL
Just curious if you even tried taking it to the dealer for warranty work?And I don't want to hear "pay to play"...blah blah blah... our asshat president made sure we all own GM so none of those comments are necessary.
Lol @ how true this is.
I advised him, the only real route to take in his case is a full sleeved block. No sense using stock stuff if you plan to push real power. It will still break. The Darton or Bates setup is basically bulletproofing the lower half of your motor.
No sense boring the stock block if you plan to make power. The sleeves are too thin as is. Removing more metal doesn't help.
I advised him, the only real route to take in his case is a full sleeved block. No sense using stock stuff if you plan to push real power. It will still break. The Darton or Bates setup is basically bulletproofing the lower half of your motor.
No sense boring the stock block if you plan to make power. The sleeves are too thin as is. Removing more metal doesn't help.
Last edited by ItalianJoe1; Apr 1, 2010 at 07:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Joined: 02-19-09
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From: Carol Stream
Lol @ how true this is.
I advised him, the only real route to take in his case is a full sleeved block. No sense using stock stuff if you plan to push real power. It will still break. The Darton or Bates setup is basically bulletproofing the lower half of your motor.
No sense boring the stock block if you plan to make power. The sleeves are too thin as is. Removing more metal doesn't help.
I advised him, the only real route to take in his case is a full sleeved block. No sense using stock stuff if you plan to push real power. It will still break. The Darton or Bates setup is basically bulletproofing the lower half of your motor.
No sense boring the stock block if you plan to make power. The sleeves are too thin as is. Removing more metal doesn't help.
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From: Houston
well italianjoe is working on my car changing the pistons and this is what he found out...
and it should look like this
what we are going to do is send the block to Darton for them to have put sleeves in, bored out to stock bore and put in the new wisco pistons... and hopefully after that ill get my car back...
and it should look like this
what we are going to do is send the block to Darton for them to have put sleeves in, bored out to stock bore and put in the new wisco pistons... and hopefully after that ill get my car back...
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From: Chi-Town
LSX RWD S/C conversion
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From: Maple Ridge, BC, Canada
I have had 2 blocks sleeved and when you see pictures of the process, there is more work than you think. Popping out the stock sleeves is the least of the work. Boring out the block to accept the work needs to be done by at least a good machinist and preferably with a CNC machine and this is a 3 day process. The sleeves then need to be installed and you get one chance and back yard mechanics don't qualify. After the sleeves are in they need to be CNC bored out to match the actual pistons so the pistons should be provided at time of the sleeves being installed.
After all of that new mainstuds should be installed (longer than stock bolts) and those studs should be line honed.
If someone can do all of this in their back yard they own a really nice shop and have some crazy skills.
On a side note, the Bates sleeves were designed for GM Racing and have a bigger lip on them (as well as being beefier) than the Darton sleeves. My DD is running the Bates sleeves installed by Bates himself and it was worth every penny.
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From: Carol Stream
You are totally correct giving that advice.
I have had 2 blocks sleeved and when you see pictures of the process, there is more work than you think. Popping out the stock sleeves is the least of the work. Boring out the block to accept the work needs to be done by at least a good machinist and preferably with a CNC machine and this is a 3 day process. The sleeves then need to be installed and you get one chance and back yard mechanics don't qualify. After the sleeves are in they need to be CNC bored out to match the actual pistons so the pistons should be provided at time of the sleeves being installed.
After all of that new mainstuds should be installed (longer than stock bolts) and those studs should be line honed.
If someone can do all of this in their back yard they own a really nice shop and have some crazy skills.
On a side note, the Bates sleeves were designed for GM Racing and have a bigger lip on them (as well as being beefier) than the Darton sleeves. My DD is running the Bates sleeves installed by Bates himself and it was worth every penny.
I have had 2 blocks sleeved and when you see pictures of the process, there is more work than you think. Popping out the stock sleeves is the least of the work. Boring out the block to accept the work needs to be done by at least a good machinist and preferably with a CNC machine and this is a 3 day process. The sleeves then need to be installed and you get one chance and back yard mechanics don't qualify. After the sleeves are in they need to be CNC bored out to match the actual pistons so the pistons should be provided at time of the sleeves being installed.
After all of that new mainstuds should be installed (longer than stock bolts) and those studs should be line honed.
If someone can do all of this in their back yard they own a really nice shop and have some crazy skills.
On a side note, the Bates sleeves were designed for GM Racing and have a bigger lip on them (as well as being beefier) than the Darton sleeves. My DD is running the Bates sleeves installed by Bates himself and it was worth every penny.
i dont believe we have the deck heigh for a 2.4.....i believe a 2.2 or 2.3 is the largest we can go.
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Joined: 01-12-09
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From: Illinois
We can use the 2.4 crank, but that will only give us I believe just over 2200 cc's of displacement on the stock bore, 2 sizes larger should give us just over 2300 cc's, and with sleeves, I think 3 sizes over should qualify as a 2.4L (2380+ cc's). I did all the math at one point in time, but it was a while ago, and my wallet has since dismissed the idea.
BUT, the moral of the story is the LE5 crank WILL, in fact, work in the LNF block. Now, if it is any better, or stronger than the LNF block is to be determined. I know the build book gives the specifics for the 2.2 crank, but I do not think it gives the LE5 crank ratings. Though, you could always have a billet one made ($$$$$$$), or get the OEM one cryo treated. Cryo treating gives something like 18%-30% more strength to a component, which may not sound substantial, but it really is. You figure, the LE5 crank is good to probably 500hp, add 18% more to that, and its close to 100 more hp that it can handle, for relatively cheap. Sorry for the longevity of this post, just thinking out loud really.
Also, I am curious if you are getting the block decked, or running a girdle, or anything to beef up the bottom end of the block itself?
BUT, the moral of the story is the LE5 crank WILL, in fact, work in the LNF block. Now, if it is any better, or stronger than the LNF block is to be determined. I know the build book gives the specifics for the 2.2 crank, but I do not think it gives the LE5 crank ratings. Though, you could always have a billet one made ($$$$$$$), or get the OEM one cryo treated. Cryo treating gives something like 18%-30% more strength to a component, which may not sound substantial, but it really is. You figure, the LE5 crank is good to probably 500hp, add 18% more to that, and its close to 100 more hp that it can handle, for relatively cheap. Sorry for the longevity of this post, just thinking out loud really.
Also, I am curious if you are getting the block decked, or running a girdle, or anything to beef up the bottom end of the block itself?
We can use the 2.4 crank, but that will only give us I believe just over 2200 cc's of displacement on the stock bore, 2 sizes larger should give us just over 2300 cc's, and with sleeves, I think 3 sizes over should qualify as a 2.4L (2380+ cc's). I did all the math at one point in time, but it was a while ago, and my wallet has since dismissed the idea.
BUT, the moral of the story is the LE5 crank WILL, in fact, work in the LNF block. Now, if it is any better, or stronger than the LNF block is to be determined. I know the build book gives the specifics for the 2.2 crank, but I do not think it gives the LE5 crank ratings. Though, you could always have a billet one made ($$$$$$$), or get the OEM one cryo treated. Cryo treating gives something like 18%-30% more strength to a component, which may not sound substantial, but it really is. You figure, the LE5 crank is good to probably 500hp, add 18% more to that, and its close to 100 more hp that it can handle, for relatively cheap. Sorry for the longevity of this post, just thinking out loud really.
Also, I am curious if you are getting the block decked, or running a girdle, or anything to beef up the bottom end of the block itself?
BUT, the moral of the story is the LE5 crank WILL, in fact, work in the LNF block. Now, if it is any better, or stronger than the LNF block is to be determined. I know the build book gives the specifics for the 2.2 crank, but I do not think it gives the LE5 crank ratings. Though, you could always have a billet one made ($$$$$$$), or get the OEM one cryo treated. Cryo treating gives something like 18%-30% more strength to a component, which may not sound substantial, but it really is. You figure, the LE5 crank is good to probably 500hp, add 18% more to that, and its close to 100 more hp that it can handle, for relatively cheap. Sorry for the longevity of this post, just thinking out loud really.
Also, I am curious if you are getting the block decked, or running a girdle, or anything to beef up the bottom end of the block itself?