At soundjunky: so springs are the culprit huh....

Yes sir! Springs and high boost at high rpms... too much pressure and they can't handle it. Lower boost at high rpms or upgrade the springs.

At TheBoss8688: well im now waiting till tuesday to talk to a GM rep about my options.

I wish you the best of luck, Gm will probably screw you like they did me; however, keep in mind you gotta pay to play. If it breaks, build it stronger and better, or trade it in :P I've decided to keep my car and turn it into a monster. It'll take some time n money, but wth, I like it too much :P

 

yea. i will probably just upgrade springs and replace the broken parts. Keep the opinions rolling guys. Any help is perfect.

 

from what I've read, this seems to be it...

 

Ok well I think I'm just going to upgrade everything. What should I buy?

 

me?

Well you could start with a 'B5-Blue' Challenger RT with the six speed...

 

Everything? lol.. as in the whole engine or just headwork? :P Depends on your pocketbook really.. and how serious the damage is inside. I had mine fixed the first time at GM by just replacing the broken parts.. that lasted all of a month before it went again. 2nd time they voided my warranty.. I had ordered ZZP springs at the time of the first occurrence, but they came in the same day the car was back together.. sucks! So 2nd time around, since no warranty anymore, I went to the ZZP stage 1 head with cams and springs already installed. It's about 2k for that option, or you could just get the springs, and some new lash adjusters and do it yourself (without upgraded cams of course:P). Look for scouring on the cams n whatnot tho.. Idk how serious it'd be, but I figure the more often this happens, the more damage will be caused over time. I mean, why would the 1st repair have popped in the first place? Either, **** has already been weakened in there, or they did it wrong. Idk which is the case so I decided to play it better safe than sorry and fork out the bucks for the good stuff.
Honestly, I think the only real weak point in these engines are the valve springs, and in some cases, the "porous block issue" but there seems to be very few cars with that problem. I was considering a whole new block from ZZP since I intend on building the **** out of this thing now, but I'm not so sure that's really necessary. Haven't decided yet tbh, but apparently, the stock blocks (providing they're not defective), are good for 500 whp without any real issues. Maybe even 600, but I'd kinda be careful with that lol. Alot of high horse guys do rods and pistons as well.. is it necessary? I doubt it.. but maybe if you're hitting over 500whp, it probably will be. I recall ZZP breaking rods, but that was alot of boost and hp tho.. over 500 for sure and it may have been the one that hit 624... I forget. Just my 2 cents.. Kinda depends on what all your plans are.

 

Damn. I can't afford 2k but I can afford to replace the stock parts. I'm just really worried about it happening again.

 

well then... don't drive it hard

I've not been too bad on my car... or so I've thought...

I've also tried to wring out the bugs before the warranties come up... I'm approaching the end of my bumper-to-bumper right now...

 

Im really not to hard on it. But at times I was. That's all changing. The car is going from daily to weekend car. But is it even worth just buying replacements for the broken parts. For the fact they could just break easily again. Don't know what to do

 

Get upgraded valve springs or lower your rev limit to 6500 or less and you should be good.

 

I'm totally with you - and i know what you mean;

My last post was mostly messing with ya!

actually the frequency does concern me too...

how's this for a recent snapshot (taken a little over a week ago just before the top end was replaced;


What I believe happened is that even on the stock tune, I experienced valve float;
I had a bent valve - and you can see the keepers coming out in that pic...
Was it valve float, or did the valve simply stick becasue of tolerances... I don't think I'll ever know.

 

My rev limiter is set a 6500 and i always shift around 6k, just to be safe, but i am thinking of the upgraded vavle springs but makes the fix 10x longer and harder from what i understand. But it would be the safe bet.

Thanks everyone for the help, right now i got alot of **** going on like a wedding coming up, honeymoon to pay for, and a home to save for. SO... i know i might sound like im going back and forth with my decisions cause i am. I am trying to fix cheap as possible but i know that will just cause this issue down the road again probably. But when i talk about upgrading the car and spending more i get bitched at about money. So this is why im trying my best to make myself and the women happy. Sorry about the bullshit talk but its pissing me off and i needed to explain that. F***

 

There's only one way you'll float the valves on a stock tune, and it's not GM's fault.

 

if valve float is it...

I never took it to the track this year (unlike last) - and have relatively sedate in my driving all year...
if it's as you say, then must have been an issue with tolerances an the valve stuck then...

I did NOTHING wrong.

 

Alright man. Just fix it with stock parts and try not to misshift. You have the possibility to ruin any engine with a misshift. Maybe you misshifted once and forgot about it. Remember our cars have a really laggy tachometer. You can admit you did it, we all do it atleast once.

 

Hes talking about a misshift.

 

Ok thanks

 

Finally found a garage to work on the car in. Any suggestions on a way to get rockers and lash adjusters back in place without removing cams? Also how do i get to the injectors cause i want to check those seals.

 

I told you how to in a previous post. I did not completely remove the cams. You don't want to remove the injectors unless you have replacement seals and an intake gasket. Once removed the seals are supposed to be replaced. The high pressure fuel pipe is supposed to be replaced as well.

 

Here ^^^

 

You can also just loosen the caps on the cams as well so they sit higher, already stated in the thread too.

Its really easy.

 

Got parts, fixed it and sounds different. Not much time to drive it yet.

 

I would say it sound loud. The engine seems to scream louder than normal it seems.

 

Doesn't ZZP offer a $1300 head that's complete with upgraded valve springs? That's the way I'd go.

 

Its $2000. I was going to buy it as well.