LNF Trans Failure
Sorry to make you wait, I have just been super busy at work. Before I give some detail on the ZZP transmission people have to know that the F35 is not different than any other transmission. What I mean by this is that they have a limit and people that wheel hop, drive on horrible roads at wot or side step the clutch at wot must just understand that your transmission is going to fail. People must also understand that there is such thing as to much clutch. When there isn't any slip at all, and I don't mean slip like the car just revs but minimal slip, you shock the transmission. This applies a great deal of stress on the gear set, final drive, input shaft, and pinion shaft. This can happen any time you launch hard, or shift gears fast. The torque inside the transmission is multiplied greatly before it reaches the tire, so setting up a clutch with a little give will help the transmission and your wallet live quite a bit longer. Another key to the failure in these transmissions is the case flexing under the great deal of torque these motors can make. When the case moves it leads to all of the above failures I listed. The case holds the tolerances that keep parts strait and running smoothly.
As many of you already know there is not much available in the way of aftermarket parts for the F35 with the exception of the Quaife parts. With aftermarket being very limited to most of us that don't have deep pockets we tried to figure out what was left to be changed in the factory transmission. Here are the modifications that we have found work quite well for us, and hopefully for you.
We set up the bearing preloads tighter on the pinion shaft and input shaft. The factory specs are good but they are not tight enough for the extra hp. When the input shaft and pinion shaft can move it becomes easier for them to flex which results in the gear packs separating, (especially in 2nd, and 3rd gear because they are closer to the middle of the shafts where they are not supported by a bearing). When the transmission is under load, the gears will actually separate from each other, not disengage but not be with in an acceptable tolerance. Once you push in the clutch, the gears slam back together and the result is a lot of missing gear teeth. They can also break when the gears are separating because you are now on the thinnest part of the gear, the top of the tooth.
All the gears in our transmission are detailed for smoother engagement, which means all sharp edges are removed. Sharp edges are also weak spots. This might not sound like much but think about all the teeth on just one gear and how many gears are inside the transmission.
The pinion brace is drilled for a shoulder bolt to help with movement under load.
We change the final drive ring gear depending on the application, to help reduce load on the gears. This helps to reduce load by allowing the use of all the gears instead of staying in 3rd through the trap. It gets us into the gears that are closer to a bearing instead of the middle of the shafts. The increased mechanical advantage of the higher final drive also reduces stress on the gears.
The detent spring/selector, and shift rail forks are modified for quicker and smoother shifts. Example: When you select your 2-3 shift, instead of moving over and up, you get more of a direct line to 3rd gear which allows for a faster, more consistent shift. Your 5th gear and reverse are also modified in the same way. No more slamming over and up or down to get the gear.
The input shaft is polished for a smoother engagement into the clutch disc. This also stops the clutch disc from binding on the input shaft.
We have a few more ideas that we are going to test and will post up the data when we are done. I am sure we will be offering basic rebuilds with new hard parts and also offer our upgrades. We are getting some pricing together and will be releasing it soon.
As many of you already know there is not much available in the way of aftermarket parts for the F35 with the exception of the Quaife parts. With aftermarket being very limited to most of us that don't have deep pockets we tried to figure out what was left to be changed in the factory transmission. Here are the modifications that we have found work quite well for us, and hopefully for you.
We set up the bearing preloads tighter on the pinion shaft and input shaft. The factory specs are good but they are not tight enough for the extra hp. When the input shaft and pinion shaft can move it becomes easier for them to flex which results in the gear packs separating, (especially in 2nd, and 3rd gear because they are closer to the middle of the shafts where they are not supported by a bearing). When the transmission is under load, the gears will actually separate from each other, not disengage but not be with in an acceptable tolerance. Once you push in the clutch, the gears slam back together and the result is a lot of missing gear teeth. They can also break when the gears are separating because you are now on the thinnest part of the gear, the top of the tooth.
All the gears in our transmission are detailed for smoother engagement, which means all sharp edges are removed. Sharp edges are also weak spots. This might not sound like much but think about all the teeth on just one gear and how many gears are inside the transmission.
The pinion brace is drilled for a shoulder bolt to help with movement under load.
We change the final drive ring gear depending on the application, to help reduce load on the gears. This helps to reduce load by allowing the use of all the gears instead of staying in 3rd through the trap. It gets us into the gears that are closer to a bearing instead of the middle of the shafts. The increased mechanical advantage of the higher final drive also reduces stress on the gears.
The detent spring/selector, and shift rail forks are modified for quicker and smoother shifts. Example: When you select your 2-3 shift, instead of moving over and up, you get more of a direct line to 3rd gear which allows for a faster, more consistent shift. Your 5th gear and reverse are also modified in the same way. No more slamming over and up or down to get the gear.
The input shaft is polished for a smoother engagement into the clutch disc. This also stops the clutch disc from binding on the input shaft.
We have a few more ideas that we are going to test and will post up the data when we are done. I am sure we will be offering basic rebuilds with new hard parts and also offer our upgrades. We are getting some pricing together and will be releasing it soon.
Sorry to make you wait, I have just been super busy at work. Before I give some detail on the ZZP transmission people have to know that the F35 is not different than any other transmission...
Blah Blah Blah
...I am sure we will be offering basic rebuilds with new hard parts and also offer our upgrades. We are getting some pricing together and will be releasing it soon.
Blah Blah Blah
...I am sure we will be offering basic rebuilds with new hard parts and also offer our upgrades. We are getting some pricing together and will be releasing it soon.

x2.3... Very interested in this. At least a Cryo option?
sounds like a nice piece, too bad I"m not racing my cobalt anymore, I would have jumped on that.... but infe has my trans now, and I'm sure it wouldn't mine a nice going over lol.
Hey Matt, I'm jis seein if y'all can help
me help my cousin, he has a 2006 ss/sc and I told
him to go with you guys's stuff. I
told him to get your cold air
intake, and a downpipe.. idk what is best for the
ss/sc a high flow cat on the dp or jus a
catless.. He already has the Hahn shorty header... and he also wants the Hahn 3" catback and
some good spark plugs. From what I
could see it is not staged.. But he basicly jus needs the basic boltons to get his car back to normal. Right now
it is lagging due to the jackass that had it before him. So if u could, pm him about yalls cai, dp, spark plugs and Hahn exhaust. His screen name is MP_wit_da_SS/SC thanks man!
me help my cousin, he has a 2006 ss/sc and I told
him to go with you guys's stuff. I
told him to get your cold air
intake, and a downpipe.. idk what is best for the
ss/sc a high flow cat on the dp or jus a
catless.. He already has the Hahn shorty header... and he also wants the Hahn 3" catback and
some good spark plugs. From what I
could see it is not staged.. But he basicly jus needs the basic boltons to get his car back to normal. Right now
it is lagging due to the jackass that had it before him. So if u could, pm him about yalls cai, dp, spark plugs and Hahn exhaust. His screen name is MP_wit_da_SS/SC thanks man!
Hey Matt, I'm jis seein if y'all can help
me help my cousin, he has a 2006 ss/sc and I told
him to go with you guys's stuff. I
told him to get your cold air
intake, and a downpipe.. idk what is best for the
ss/sc a high flow cat on the dp or jus a
catless.. He already has the Hahn shorty header... and he also wants the Hahn 3" catback and
some good spark plugs. From what I
could see it is not staged.. But he basicly jus needs the basic boltons to get his car back to normal. Right now
it is lagging due to the jackass that had it before him. So if u could, pm him about yalls cai, dp, spark plugs and Hahn exhaust. His screen name is MP_wit_da_SS/SC thanks man!
me help my cousin, he has a 2006 ss/sc and I told
him to go with you guys's stuff. I
told him to get your cold air
intake, and a downpipe.. idk what is best for the
ss/sc a high flow cat on the dp or jus a
catless.. He already has the Hahn shorty header... and he also wants the Hahn 3" catback and
some good spark plugs. From what I
could see it is not staged.. But he basicly jus needs the basic boltons to get his car back to normal. Right now
it is lagging due to the jackass that had it before him. So if u could, pm him about yalls cai, dp, spark plugs and Hahn exhaust. His screen name is MP_wit_da_SS/SC thanks man!
I don't want to sound like a dick but why would we know or help with the hahn header or exhaust. He could just run our exhaust that doesn't rub on lowered and not lowered cars. People pick a shop and stay with a shop. Atleast one that will help you with your parts that you purchase from them.
I don't want to sound like a dick but why would we know or help with the hahn header or exhaust. He could just run our exhaust that doesn't rub on lowered and not lowered cars. People pick a shop and stay with a shop. Atleast one that will help you with your parts that you purchase from them.
plus hahns **** is retarded overpriced for no reason
But for sound, the Hahn exhaust is stellar.. and it's """backpressure""" off a catless dp will be fine.... I think the resonator + the muffler will be enough... Why y'all be hatin on the Hahn exhaust...
Might as well go catless anyways, it's
gonna be heavily staged soon so no need for a "milk straw" exhaust...
Oh lol I must be confuses then, I always thought zzp sold their stuff too but I musta been thinkin of TTR lol muh bad fellas
gonna be heavily staged soon so no need for a "milk straw" exhaust...
Oh lol I must be confuses then, I always thought zzp sold their stuff too but I musta been thinkin of TTR lol muh bad fellas
Last edited by badbaltguy; Apr 28, 2010 at 03:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Do you ever speak English you know the proper language we use in UhmayorIka ???? Seriously man it really gets on some peoples nerves. You are not going to get any respect talking like that. Ebonics is not the official language here , sorry to thread jack but damn I wasted 5 minutes trying to figure out what is going on here.
Do you ever speak English you know the proper language we use in UhmayorIka ???? Seriously man it really gets on some peoples nerves. You are not going to get any respect talking like that. Ebonics is not the official language here , sorry to thread jack but damn I wasted 5 minutes trying to figure out what is going on here.





lol.