LNF Valve Gunk..
Senior Member
Joined: 12-05-10
Posts: 3,877
Likes: 3
From: newmarket
you might have had horrible build up already before your 5th injector. If you had a clean motor from the start the 5th injector probably would have helped keep the carbon at bay. But since you put it on a used engine with carbon already caked on, i have my serious doubts about it being able to take the old crusted stuff off.
I think these motors just eventually need new heads. there is nothing around it really.
I think these motors just eventually need new heads. there is nothing around it really.
keep an eye on the website or email gloria@powellraceshop.com she can put you on the list. The solution wont be cheap, it is effective and does require parts removal and installation.
Senior Member
Joined: 08-11-08
Posts: 3,888
Likes: 1
From: San Diego
the issues with coking on di motors is not new.
stay tuned for a solution from us, its in the works and testing
- there is no one solution. I beleive that K&N and other filters with poor small particulate control are problematical
- inlet valve temperature is key/200 degrees C inlet valve temp, is not a good number
- pcv control is important
- top tier hi octane fuel is important
- low ash oil is important.
- driver mod to deal with inlet valve temperature is important. low revs in 5th =ugh
- Powell raceparts will offer a partial solution soon.
- seafoam wont help in a di motor to any degree
- using a wire brush in the inlet port is probably not a good idea. Walnut shell blast is better, wood particles burn when sucked in the cylinder, wire brush particles dont.
stay tuned for a solution from us, its in the works and testing
Senior Member
Joined: 12-05-10
Posts: 3,877
Likes: 3
From: newmarket
keep an eye on the website or email gloria@powellraceshop.com she can put you on the list. The solution wont be cheap, it is effective and does require parts removal and installation.
the issues with coking on di motors is not new.
stay tuned for a solution from us, its in the works and testing
- there is no one solution. I beleive that K&N and other filters with poor small particulate control are problematical
- inlet valve temperature is key/200 degrees C inlet valve temp, is not a good number
- pcv control is important
- top tier hi octane fuel is important
- low ash oil is important.
- driver mod to deal with inlet valve temperature is important. low revs in 5th =ugh
- Powell raceparts will offer a partial solution soon.
- seafoam wont help in a di motor to any degree
- using a wire brush in the inlet port is probably not a good idea. Walnut shell blast is better, wood particles burn when sucked in the cylinder, wire brush particles dont.
stay tuned for a solution from us, its in the works and testing
think about introducing material fluid or otherwise (that is not atomized or distrubuted by the throttle body) directly into the inlet port and ask what happens if this material or fluid is ingested into the cylinder and then compressed by the piston.
fluids dont compress easily
fluids dont compress easily
Member
Joined: 12-02-09
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
I have yet to hear a clear explanation about why the carbon build up problem occurs. Seems there is a new theory every few months. Theories like oil leaking from the valve guides, "dirty" PCV designs, failed PCV valves, and exhaust gases being present in the intake track. I would love to see a technical explanation for the issue based on sound theory backed up with scientific testing proving a product/technique works.
Senior Member
Joined: 06-02-08
Posts: 2,985
Likes: 2
From: TN
Carbon is a byproduct of burning gas. Combined with some oil blow by you get buildup.
The gas is injected directly into the cylinder so it never has a chance to wash off the carbon buildup from the back of the valves. In a port injection or carberated engine the gas is injected upstream of the valves where it can help wash them off.
And a link to read some more.
http://www.autoobserver.com/2011/06/...-adopters.html
The gas is injected directly into the cylinder so it never has a chance to wash off the carbon buildup from the back of the valves. In a port injection or carberated engine the gas is injected upstream of the valves where it can help wash them off.
And a link to read some more.
http://www.autoobserver.com/2011/06/...-adopters.html
Last edited by emiller; Jul 9, 2012 at 10:06 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 10-05-10
Posts: 805
Likes: 1
From: A.B.E. PA & Jacksonville FL
John - I'm first in line - since I'm the OP who started all this.. 
In all seriousness, there has to be a solution to this problem.. not only me, but there are alot folks on here and on other forums who are willing to purchase a new head/valve train to have a working/performing engine period. It sux's to have the same problem with oil/gunk all over the place...
John - is it possible to produce a venturi tube or pcv type product?
In all seriousness, there has to be a solution to this problem.. not only me, but there are alot folks on here and on other forums who are willing to purchase a new head/valve train to have a working/performing engine period. It sux's to have the same problem with oil/gunk all over the place...
John - is it possible to produce a venturi tube or pcv type product?
I have yet to hear a clear explanation about why the carbon build up problem occurs. Seems there is a new theory every few months. Theories like oil leaking from the valve guides, "dirty" PCV designs, failed PCV valves, and exhaust gases being present in the intake track. I would love to see a technical explanation for the issue based on sound theory backed up with scientific testing proving a product/technique works.
John - I'm first in line - since I'm the OP who started all this..
In all seriousness, there has to be a solution to this problem.. not only me, but there are alot folks on here and on other forums who are willing to purchase a new head/valve train to have a working/performing engine period. It sux's to have the same problem with oil/gunk all over the place...
John - is it possible to produce a venturi tube or pcv type product?
In all seriousness, there has to be a solution to this problem.. not only me, but there are alot folks on here and on other forums who are willing to purchase a new head/valve train to have a working/performing engine period. It sux's to have the same problem with oil/gunk all over the place...
John - is it possible to produce a venturi tube or pcv type product?
you use top tier gasoline.
if
you use ( with not a lot of hope for it, but just because) techron gasoline additive.
if
you use my fix which is NOT a venturi tube you dont want to create any venturis anywhere lol
and
you should consider using low ash mobil 1 its the euro oil that Maven loves, i use it in my Saab wntrbtr2 turbo
and
u should not overfill your engine with oil at all
and
u should run in 4th rather than 5th on two lane roads, u will get better mileage anyway (key point here)
u should reconsider air filtration
then things will improve for you
providing the valves are clean to start with.
what i dont know is what the tunes are doing in this equation. I am not 100% that a tune that throws fuel at detonation wont add to the issues.
But I am confident that what I have in the works will help .
so your saying to run in 4th gear on a two lane road like a highway (50-65mph)?
ill have to give this a try, ill be driving 65 all the way back to my home town= 420 miles. when i came up to my destanation i was getting average 36mpg at 65mph. so ill post when i go back, that will be august 8th
email me i would be interested in what you find. i am thinking u run about 2100 in 5th@60 mph iirc ( havent cruised witha 3.86 for a long time ) and you want 3200 if you can i am thinking. also driving just 2 miles a day trips kill any engine , these maybe more. cheers. ps it says you got a saturn redline so that is a different car differnt motor and not this problem at all not DI.
Senior Member
Joined: 10-08-06
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 0
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Senior Member
Joined: 10-08-06
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 0
From: Scottsdale, AZ
the issues with coking on di motors is not new.
stay tuned for a solution from us, its in the works and testing
- there is no one solution. I beleive that K&N and other filters with poor small particulate control are problematical
- inlet valve temperature is key/200 degrees C inlet valve temp, is not a good number
- pcv control is important
- top tier hi octane fuel is important
- low ash oil is important.
- driver mod to deal with inlet valve temperature is important. low revs in 5th =ugh
- Powell raceparts will offer a partial solution soon.
- seafoam wont help in a di motor to any degree
- using a wire brush in the inlet port is probably not a good idea. Walnut shell blast is better, wood particles burn when sucked in the cylinder, wire brush particles dont.
stay tuned for a solution from us, its in the works and testing
