It just has a part number for the oil on my oil changes. I get free ones as part of the deal I worked out when I bought the car.

 

I figure why waste the oil. I requested to see the outgoing oil filter when I ran it to 17% and it was by all concerned considered to be rather clean period, not just for the mileage (something like 8-9k). The car is driven 2 hours a day on commutes. 15 minutes in town roads at 35-45mph, 45 minutes freeway at 60-70 depending on how late i am running. I NLS 2-3 on the way out and run it to at least 80 pretty much every morning. The car never breaths dirt Save for the rare street sweeper or whatever gets kicked up in winter.

To illustrate how clean she breaths, it took over 60k miles before the dealer said the filter was looking like it was about done. The media was a dark grey something on the order of a #4 pencil on plain paper. I figure with the exception of raw miles and the fact that I will dd it in any conditions (Conti Extreme contact DWS may be useless as a performance tire in my book but in compacted snow and ice its close enough to a performance winter tire in said performance that I will deal with it's mush otherwise because it isn't as bad as a true performance ice and snow tire in the wet or dry... its close, though.) in and through the Seattle area hills, my car leads a pretty optimal life.

Beside that, I trust the engineers, mobil 1 oil, the oil coloration, and don't want the dealership to reconsider its policy of unlimited free lifetime oil changes regardless of required oil for all new sales. If enough ******** like me came in once every 5 weeks for their Mobil 1 Synth and I am sure the line would change. Maybe paranoia on my end about the dealer policy, but I'll take it as needed; Why abuse it with no discernible gain ?

I thought I read somewhere Mobil 1 Synthetic is no longer a low ash oil in grade 5w-30. I try to wait no longer than 50% but you know how it is. I am curious as to what a chunk of deposit breaking off of the valve would do.

I am holding out hope that the solution devised will be nigh imperceptible as a modification or not interfere with warranty. No matter what I've no doubt more than a few are watching.

 

I see your point..

As for a chunk depositing on the piston, up to now I've seen only a few Ecotec engines with the heads removed in the shop, but only a few [5] with "caked-on" deposits both on the pistons and on the valves, and each one had new pistons/valves installed.. so I could see it dropping on the piston and "Melting" on the piston..

one of the GM Master Techs told me - it's been a known issue since Lotus/Yamaha designed the head in the early 2k's and even Bosch knows about it too..

 

Thos happens due Not having raw fuel in the intake so the oil from the Pcv n whatever blow by cooks to the valve I'm a Mazda master tech n the same stuff happens to our 2.3 disi motors (speed6,3,cx7) there's no fix for it weber tryed numerous intake cleaners nothing helps

 

So if there are many different sources it seems that Wangspeed may have found one, over filling the crank case, he drained this out of his catch can apparently...
I was also thinking about where else can oil come from and then realized the turbo itself could be a source. My Stealth had oil in the charge pipes from leaking seals on the turbos, maybe a worn out turbo at high rpm/oil pressure might be one source. Maybe not an issue for low mileage or stock tune cars but anybody who runs their turbo hard or has an aftermarket turbo with a leaky bearing section could create this issue too. Problem is, how do you deal with oil from there? The only way would be some fancy charge pipe with a way to separate the oil from the air in high air flow volumes with low pressure drop. Yikes

 

Miko you are a smart guy. This oil is NOT coming from the turbo. Its coming from the RC thru the pcv. Wangspeed is 75 % of the way there, the final solution will be ready this week. Warren is ahead of the curve on this deal.

 

75% of the bottle full apparently! LoL! I've been running the MPx catch can for a year now but it's bone dry. Hmmm, makes me wonder if I have a problem with it or have been lucky.

 

I have no idea how its plumbed and what it is doing for you. Your motor may be perfect with a perfect drive cycle and 300 degree valve temps...
if its plumbed on the fresh air side, its not doing anything but getting in the way.

 

Nope, plumbed completely correct. Just to be safe I think I'm going to check my PCV valve.

 

any news?

 

Zmax???

 

After reading an independent review/paper on it, that stuff is pretty funky..

 

Is this a joke, or are you really that gullible? It's mineral oil.

 

even the late Carroll Shelby - Stands behind this product!!

 

I am afraid the best solution might just be removing them and clean them after so many miles not a cheap simple solution?

 

after reading a ton of posts on gm sport compac, the best solution for me IMO is the walnut shell blast..

yes - it costs a few coins - but after looking the "before" and "after" for what the BMW/Audi/MB guys have done already to cure this problem.. it's a no brainer..

doing the walnut blast and coupled with Powell's PVC product.. this could minimize the coking to a point, provided the walnut blast is done once a year and Powell's PVC product is clean & working properly..

Before "Walnut Blast" pic - I though this was the intake valve in the middle of port - that not bad oil coking? oh'boy was I wrong..



After "Walnut Blast" pic - look at it sparkle!!

 

I'm not endorsing zmax but the mineral oil is merely a vehicle to carry the additive..

 

good thread and good pictures of course I agree lol

 

john - i read the post twice, i couldn't believe it's an easy process to perform after reading the manual..

here's the post: e90post.com

 

its about a grand from harbor freight for a reasonable set up, u supply the vacuum. BMW kit for what they say is not redonkulous, gonna follow up on that thanks u da mang for sure. ya a canadian dealer for that outfit so we will see what I find.
Well update that went nowhere the canadian dealer sells shot blast dont know nothing about the machines and was offended I emailed them coz I am stupid to ask them for a machine all they sell is shot blast. live and learn. Back to harbor freight lol

 

I read the same BMW article a while ago too. The BMW tool itself is apparently on backorder everywhere because of demand. Walnut shell does seem like a no-brainer, especially for the factory dealerships. GM should be doing this rather than having their techs teardown the engine.

 

I agree. I have put the the harbor freight blaster on our buy list. seems to make sense to me.

 

this is a setup i'm looking to get to for my shop:

25 Lbs. Fine Grade Walnut Shell Blast Media @22.99 per bag




110 Lb. Pressurized Abrasive Blaster @$129.99




Abrasive Blast Cabinet @$119.99

 

u need the vaccuum...lol . good stuff. in the cabinet, I suggest you use a soft aluminum silica or whatever they call it. in the floor model use the walnut shells for the heads and black shot for the hard stuff like rusted chevy rear axles off 1908 trucks lol

 

ps u will need a dryer in the line just before the blaster to stop the moisture nonsense.... next week final pcv will be up and running around....