LNF Valve Gunk..
our Powell hardcore pcv retrofit for the LNF sure showed it works well at TOTDv.03, returned clean fresh vented air to the induction system. Drain back worked awesome.
GM engineers are darn smart, the Corvette PCV has to be good.
GM engineers are darn smart, the Corvette PCV has to be good.
Are we any closer to being able to order and install your system on our cars. I need this fix asap.... lol
^^^ yes, contact gloria@powellraceshop.com, should start shipping next week I expect. I am so pleased with the total package. folks will have to tell us what they have for intake - stock, kandn, Hahn , ZZP etc...
^^^ yes, contact gloria@powellraceshop.com, should start shipping next week I expect. I am so pleased with the total package. folks will have to tell us what they have for intake - stock, kandn, Hahn , ZZP etc...
Thanks
pricing is about 350. Check valved and filtered seperators are in, now threading them for AN fittings, I willmake the hoses up Monday ; the drain backs are done, so they can ship out Tuesday.
There are three routings - brackets and hoses to suit K&N, Hahn air inlets, and stock air inlets for Cobalt. There is a Kappa set, it mounts beside the fuse box.
Pictures next week. The whole project got delayed a few more weeks with our sourcing the seperators, which are not alloy Moroso stainless mesh seperators, that was the initial test unit, but it costs 268.00 by itself, and has no check valve. You put your system at risk if you do not have a means of controlling reverse flow in a forced induction motor.
In the meantime Wangspeed and Loki have been caning their LNF's with the prototype systems, and are satisfied with the results: clean air returned to the induction system, and the oil returned to the engine oil pickup.
There are three routings - brackets and hoses to suit K&N, Hahn air inlets, and stock air inlets for Cobalt. There is a Kappa set, it mounts beside the fuse box.
Pictures next week. The whole project got delayed a few more weeks with our sourcing the seperators, which are not alloy Moroso stainless mesh seperators, that was the initial test unit, but it costs 268.00 by itself, and has no check valve. You put your system at risk if you do not have a means of controlling reverse flow in a forced induction motor.
In the meantime Wangspeed and Loki have been caning their LNF's with the prototype systems, and are satisfied with the results: clean air returned to the induction system, and the oil returned to the engine oil pickup.
pricing is about 350. Check valved and filtered seperators are in, now threading them for AN fittings, I willmake the hoses up Monday ; the drain backs are done, so they can ship out Tuesday.
There are three routings - brackets and hoses to suit K&N, Hahn air inlets, and stock air inlets for Cobalt. There is a Kappa set, it mounts beside the fuse box.
Pictures next week. The whole project got delayed a few more weeks with our sourcing the seperators, which are not alloy Moroso stainless mesh seperators, that was the initial test unit, but it costs 268.00 by itself, and has no check valve. You put your system at risk if you do not have a means of controlling reverse flow in a forced induction motor.
In the meantime Wangspeed and Loki have been caning their LNF's with the prototype systems, and are satisfied with the results: clean air returned to the induction system, and the oil returned to the engine oil pickup.
There are three routings - brackets and hoses to suit K&N, Hahn air inlets, and stock air inlets for Cobalt. There is a Kappa set, it mounts beside the fuse box.
Pictures next week. The whole project got delayed a few more weeks with our sourcing the seperators, which are not alloy Moroso stainless mesh seperators, that was the initial test unit, but it costs 268.00 by itself, and has no check valve. You put your system at risk if you do not have a means of controlling reverse flow in a forced induction motor.
In the meantime Wangspeed and Loki have been caning their LNF's with the prototype systems, and are satisfied with the results: clean air returned to the induction system, and the oil returned to the engine oil pickup.
The install. Let me see.....depending on your air inlet; the stock air box I have to drill two holes in the tie bar to mount the bracket. K&N and Hahn I can use the strut tower, although on Steddy's I think the pass engine inner fender side ( where the second bracket on an LSJ option B tank goes) may have to be used. Some of the fittings that I want to use to integrate into the existing PCV lines dont exist yet, Russell will have some made that I can buy in a few weeks , but that just makes it a one fitting rather than two for one side of the vent hose routing. No big deal. The cleaner the install the better I like it.
30 mins - one hour. But then Todd, ZZP did a great job on your motor, and your air filter location is a little different from the ones I have listed, so maybe add 30 minutes for head scratching etc. And I will have to make some changes for yours as you have a trap door oil pan, but thats no big deal as I know that in advance and can prepare the parts. Its really important to make the drain back so oil does not get into the main engine compartment just below the crankshaft and get into a windage issue.
I have fooled around with placement on the Kappa. This is the final iteration of the filtered, check valved seperator.
The problem is , the Kappa has an engine cover, and at least one line is going to 4 ft long. I have pretty much settled on this location, the outlet can be rotated by lifting the top and rotating it, so thats not an issue. The hood will just touch in this location so may move it forward and build it off the fuse box mounting bracket, which is very solid. The pcv lines will be short the oil return long but that doesnt matter much. The important thing is to maintain the OEM intended vacuum levels in the PCV operation.

I was really pleased how well Loki's prototype worked, I should have taken pictures, the vented air out was 100% clean. Which is what we intended, of course. Always nice when a plan comes together.
Thanks to Wangspeed the initiator and track meister, and Loki the wheelman at TOTD v.03 ( a 2000 mile three day test , Canada to the Dragon and back)
Oh and one more thing. If I replace the lines with JIC hydraulic hose instead of AN Russell fittings and hoses, the price would drop some, maybe 50 dollars. Is that a viable option?
The problem is , the Kappa has an engine cover, and at least one line is going to 4 ft long. I have pretty much settled on this location, the outlet can be rotated by lifting the top and rotating it, so thats not an issue. The hood will just touch in this location so may move it forward and build it off the fuse box mounting bracket, which is very solid. The pcv lines will be short the oil return long but that doesnt matter much. The important thing is to maintain the OEM intended vacuum levels in the PCV operation.

I was really pleased how well Loki's prototype worked, I should have taken pictures, the vented air out was 100% clean. Which is what we intended, of course. Always nice when a plan comes together.
Thanks to Wangspeed the initiator and track meister, and Loki the wheelman at TOTD v.03 ( a 2000 mile three day test , Canada to the Dragon and back)
Oh and one more thing. If I replace the lines with JIC hydraulic hose instead of AN Russell fittings and hoses, the price would drop some, maybe 50 dollars. Is that a viable option?
Joined: 12-23-09
Posts: 12,643
Likes: 7
From: Mt. Pleasant S.C.
I'll drop you a line tomorrow. I can feel another front end issue just starting to develope anyway so I have to run a couple of questions by you to get my todo list in order anyhow. Thank you John.
So I have to jump in on this. So this valve gunk just appears because the LNF is DI?
I'm in the market for an LNF, but only as a DD (not a track car) would this be a huge issue for me?
This thread has gone back and forth on seafoam working/not working, some people up to 80k miles and never did anything and their car still running perfect. So just trying to figure this all out. I would plan on owning the TC forever so is this valve gunk going to cause an issue for me?
I'm in the market for an LNF, but only as a DD (not a track car) would this be a huge issue for me?
This thread has gone back and forth on seafoam working/not working, some people up to 80k miles and never did anything and their car still running perfect. So just trying to figure this all out. I would plan on owning the TC forever so is this valve gunk going to cause an issue for me?
there are ways to deal with it as pointed out by john earlier in the thread. If you take corrective actions valve gunk shouldnt be an issue now that powell released his system
my current plan of attack is as follows:
keep cruising above 2500rpm to keep intake valve temps down
93 Oct gas
Seafoam every oil change (even though results seem hit or miss in this thread)
Future:
will be ordering powells PCV system without a doubt
most likely will run E47
possibly Meth as its seen plausible benefits and theoretically should wash down intake valves and clean what is likely dirty right now
i have a feeling with all of the above valve gunk will be a thing of the past
my current plan of attack is as follows:
keep cruising above 2500rpm to keep intake valve temps down
93 Oct gas
Seafoam every oil change (even though results seem hit or miss in this thread)
Future:
will be ordering powells PCV system without a doubt
most likely will run E47
possibly Meth as its seen plausible benefits and theoretically should wash down intake valves and clean what is likely dirty right now
i have a feeling with all of the above valve gunk will be a thing of the past
there are ways to deal with it as pointed out by john earlier in the thread. If you take corrective actions valve gunk shouldnt be an issue now that powell released his system
my current plan of attack is as follows:
keep cruising above 2500rpm to keep intake valve temps down
93 Oct gas
Seafoam every oil change (even though results seem hit or miss in this thread)
Future:
will be ordering powells PCV system without a doubt
most likely will run E47
possibly Meth as its seen plausible benefits and theoretically should wash down intake valves and clean what is likely dirty right now
i have a feeling with all of the above valve gunk will be a thing of the past
my current plan of attack is as follows:
keep cruising above 2500rpm to keep intake valve temps down
93 Oct gas
Seafoam every oil change (even though results seem hit or miss in this thread)
Future:
will be ordering powells PCV system without a doubt
most likely will run E47
possibly Meth as its seen plausible benefits and theoretically should wash down intake valves and clean what is likely dirty right now
i have a feeling with all of the above valve gunk will be a thing of the past
If it worries you.. just jump into an LSJ instead. The LNF and LSJs are both great cars. Buying an LSJ cheaper and turbo-swapping is always a good option. Those LSJ's are bulletproof and can be picked up fairly cheap in comparison to their newer LNF siblings + no gunk issues as they have regular port injection


