my LNF build thread
For me to not get the forge is pretty easy.
1. It really doesn't nothing but add a little more sound over stocks.
2. It's $150 that could be spent else where.
3. The stock one does its purpose and no need to change it out if it works perfectly fine at all levels of boost.
4. The zfr has a ton of issues with it.
1. It really doesn't nothing but add a little more sound over stocks.
2. It's $150 that could be spent else where.
3. The stock one does its purpose and no need to change it out if it works perfectly fine at all levels of boost.
4. The zfr has a ton of issues with it.
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From: riverside
For me to not get the forge is pretty easy.
1. It really doesn't nothing but add a little more sound over stocks.
2. It's $150 that could be spent else where.
3. The stock one does its purpose and no need to change it out if it works perfectly fine at all levels of boost.
4. The zfr has a ton of issues with it.
1. It really doesn't nothing but add a little more sound over stocks.
2. It's $150 that could be spent else where.
3. The stock one does its purpose and no need to change it out if it works perfectly fine at all levels of boost.
4. The zfr has a ton of issues with it.
1. i like the loud sound so thats why i want it.
2. its 150 but a tial is 250.
3. cant argue this one. except ive read the stock one is prone to leaks. unknown if true or not.
4. waiting for more info.
im really not trying to **** anyone off or anything of the sort. hopefully noone is offended by my posts. not trying to be a dick about any of your responses. i truly appreciate the help. not trying to burn any bridges here with these high horsepower people for i may need their advice later on down the road lol
Last edited by cblt2469; Jan 1, 2015 at 03:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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For me to not get the forge is pretty easy.
1. It really doesn't nothing but add a little more sound over stocks.
2. It's $150 that could be spent else where.
3. The stock one does its purpose and no need to change it out if it works perfectly fine at all levels of boost.
4. The zfr has a ton of issues with it.
1. It really doesn't nothing but add a little more sound over stocks.
2. It's $150 that could be spent else where.
3. The stock one does its purpose and no need to change it out if it works perfectly fine at all levels of boost.
4. The zfr has a ton of issues with it.
As far as the map sensor nonsense that was being tossed around in this thread earlier.... holy christ. I came into this thread way too late to bother quoting the bunches of nonsense, or read through every word.. lol.. Some were close, some not so much.
Map sensors in a nut shell. Map sensor stands for Manifold ABSOLUTE Pressure. Absolute pressure in a pressure figure NOT compensating for barometric pressure. Which then needs to be compensated for (aka subtracted) from the overall ability of the sensor. Basically take your total map sensor range (3BAR in this case), figure out your specific barometric pressure for where you are (sea level is 100kpa or 1BAR so we'll assume that for the time being to keep figures easy), and subtract your baro pressure from your overall map sensor capability. 3BAR - 1BAR (baro) = 2BAR actual usable range. 2BAR = 200kpa = roughly 29psi, however there is some slight head room in the 3BAR sensors, so roughly 31psi is measurable.
If someone already explained this, and I missed it, then I apologize to that person. Either way, that's basically the math behind it. Nothing overly complicated or difficult. It only starts to get a little funky when you're at high elevations and the baro pressure gets whacky. Even then, the math is still simple. The compensations in the tune are what can get funky at times.
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From: Arizona
This is the only thing I don't really agree with you on. I've actually had a forge valve on my 6758 since day one with no real issues to speak of. It's definitely not needed by any means of the word, but I had one kicking around and decided to run it when I installed the turbo. I personally have no real complaints to speak of. With that said, OP stick with the stock bpv and stick with the stock lower cp. There's no reason what so ever to change the lower pipe unless you plan of running a vta bov. In that case it's pretty well a MUST in order to get a solid and consistent tune. Beyond that, both mods are generally a waste really as others have mentioned.
As far as the map sensor nonsense that was being tossed around in this thread earlier.... holy christ. I came into this thread way too late to bother quoting the bunches of nonsense, or read through every word.. lol.. Some were close, some not so much.
Map sensors in a nut shell. Map sensor stands for Manifold ABSOLUTE Pressure. Absolute pressure in a pressure figure NOT compensating for barometric pressure. Which then needs to be compensated for (aka subtracted) from the overall ability of the sensor. Basically take your total map sensor range (3BAR in this case), figure out your specific barometric pressure for where you are (sea level is 100kpa or 1BAR so we'll assume that for the time being to keep figures easy), and subtract your baro pressure from your overall map sensor capability. 3BAR - 1BAR (baro) = 2BAR actual usable range. 2BAR = 200kpa = roughly 29psi, however there is some slight head room in the 3BAR sensors, so roughly 31psi is measurable.
If someone already explained this, and I missed it, then I apologize to that person. Either way, that's basically the math behind it. Nothing overly complicated or difficult. It only starts to get a little funky when you're at high elevations and the baro pressure gets whacky. Even then, the math is still simple. The compensations in the tune are what can get funky at times.
As far as the map sensor nonsense that was being tossed around in this thread earlier.... holy christ. I came into this thread way too late to bother quoting the bunches of nonsense, or read through every word.. lol.. Some were close, some not so much.
Map sensors in a nut shell. Map sensor stands for Manifold ABSOLUTE Pressure. Absolute pressure in a pressure figure NOT compensating for barometric pressure. Which then needs to be compensated for (aka subtracted) from the overall ability of the sensor. Basically take your total map sensor range (3BAR in this case), figure out your specific barometric pressure for where you are (sea level is 100kpa or 1BAR so we'll assume that for the time being to keep figures easy), and subtract your baro pressure from your overall map sensor capability. 3BAR - 1BAR (baro) = 2BAR actual usable range. 2BAR = 200kpa = roughly 29psi, however there is some slight head room in the 3BAR sensors, so roughly 31psi is measurable.
If someone already explained this, and I missed it, then I apologize to that person. Either way, that's basically the math behind it. Nothing overly complicated or difficult. It only starts to get a little funky when you're at high elevations and the baro pressure gets whacky. Even then, the math is still simple. The compensations in the tune are what can get funky at times.
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Joined: 01-21-12
Posts: 6,896
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From: Calgary
This is the only thing I don't really agree with you on. I've actually had a forge valve on my 6758 since day one with no real issues to speak of. It's definitely not needed by any means of the word, but I had one kicking around and decided to run it when I installed the turbo. I personally have no real complaints to speak of. With that said, OP stick with the stock bpv and stick with the stock lower cp. There's no reason what so ever to change the lower pipe unless you plan of running a vta bov. In that case it's pretty well a MUST in order to get a solid and consistent tune. Beyond that, both mods are generally a waste really as others have mentioned.
As far as the map sensor nonsense that was being tossed around in this thread earlier.... holy christ. I came into this thread way too late to bother quoting the bunches of nonsense, or read through every word.. lol.. Some were close, some not so much.
Map sensors in a nut shell. Map sensor stands for Manifold ABSOLUTE Pressure. Absolute pressure in a pressure figure NOT compensating for barometric pressure. Which then needs to be compensated for (aka subtracted) from the overall ability of the sensor. Basically take your total map sensor range (3BAR in this case), figure out your specific barometric pressure for where you are (sea level is 100kpa or 1BAR so we'll assume that for the time being to keep figures easy), and subtract your baro pressure from your overall map sensor capability. 3BAR - 1BAR (baro) = 2BAR actual usable range. 2BAR = 200kpa = roughly 29psi, however there is some slight head room in the 3BAR sensors, so roughly 31psi is measurable.
If someone already explained this, and I missed it, then I apologize to that person. Either way, that's basically the math behind it. Nothing overly complicated or difficult. It only starts to get a little funky when you're at high elevations and the baro pressure gets whacky. Even then, the math is still simple. The compensations in the tune are what can get funky at times.
As far as the map sensor nonsense that was being tossed around in this thread earlier.... holy christ. I came into this thread way too late to bother quoting the bunches of nonsense, or read through every word.. lol.. Some were close, some not so much.
Map sensors in a nut shell. Map sensor stands for Manifold ABSOLUTE Pressure. Absolute pressure in a pressure figure NOT compensating for barometric pressure. Which then needs to be compensated for (aka subtracted) from the overall ability of the sensor. Basically take your total map sensor range (3BAR in this case), figure out your specific barometric pressure for where you are (sea level is 100kpa or 1BAR so we'll assume that for the time being to keep figures easy), and subtract your baro pressure from your overall map sensor capability. 3BAR - 1BAR (baro) = 2BAR actual usable range. 2BAR = 200kpa = roughly 29psi, however there is some slight head room in the 3BAR sensors, so roughly 31psi is measurable.
If someone already explained this, and I missed it, then I apologize to that person. Either way, that's basically the math behind it. Nothing overly complicated or difficult. It only starts to get a little funky when you're at high elevations and the baro pressure gets whacky. Even then, the math is still simple. The compensations in the tune are what can get funky at times.
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Joined: 12-26-14
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From: riverside
This is the only thing I don't really agree with you on. I've actually had a forge valve on my 6758 since day one with no real issues to speak of. It's definitely not needed by any means of the word, but I had one kicking around and decided to run it when I installed the turbo. I personally have no real complaints to speak of. With that said, OP stick with the stock bpv and stick with the stock lower cp. There's no reason what so ever to change the lower pipe unless you plan of running a vta bov. In that case it's pretty well a MUST in order to get a solid and consistent tune. Beyond that, both mods are generally a waste really as others have mentioned.
As far as the map sensor nonsense that was being tossed around in this thread earlier.... holy christ. I came into this thread way too late to bother quoting the bunches of nonsense, or read through every word.. lol.. Some were close, some not so much.
Map sensors in a nut shell. Map sensor stands for Manifold ABSOLUTE Pressure. Absolute pressure in a pressure figure NOT compensating for barometric pressure. Which then needs to be compensated for (aka subtracted) from the overall ability of the sensor. Basically take your total map sensor range (3BAR in this case), figure out your specific barometric pressure for where you are (sea level is 100kpa or 1BAR so we'll assume that for the time being to keep figures easy), and subtract your baro pressure from your overall map sensor capability. 3BAR - 1BAR (baro) = 2BAR actual usable range. 2BAR = 200kpa = roughly 29psi, however there is some slight head room in the 3BAR sensors, so roughly 31psi is measurable.
If someone already explained this, and I missed it, then I apologize to that person. Either way, that's basically the math behind it. Nothing overly complicated or difficult. It only starts to get a little funky when you're at high elevations and the baro pressure gets whacky. Even then, the math is still simple. The compensations in the tune are what can get funky at times.
As far as the map sensor nonsense that was being tossed around in this thread earlier.... holy christ. I came into this thread way too late to bother quoting the bunches of nonsense, or read through every word.. lol.. Some were close, some not so much.
Map sensors in a nut shell. Map sensor stands for Manifold ABSOLUTE Pressure. Absolute pressure in a pressure figure NOT compensating for barometric pressure. Which then needs to be compensated for (aka subtracted) from the overall ability of the sensor. Basically take your total map sensor range (3BAR in this case), figure out your specific barometric pressure for where you are (sea level is 100kpa or 1BAR so we'll assume that for the time being to keep figures easy), and subtract your baro pressure from your overall map sensor capability. 3BAR - 1BAR (baro) = 2BAR actual usable range. 2BAR = 200kpa = roughly 29psi, however there is some slight head room in the 3BAR sensors, so roughly 31psi is measurable.
If someone already explained this, and I missed it, then I apologize to that person. Either way, that's basically the math behind it. Nothing overly complicated or difficult. It only starts to get a little funky when you're at high elevations and the baro pressure gets whacky. Even then, the math is still simple. The compensations in the tune are what can get funky at times.
and yes i get theres no gains for the lower charge pipes, and all that but im running the lower charge pipes so i can run a vented BPV. thats the only reason i am swapping them out
okay so new question. i have the injen upercharge piping, can i buy an adapter for a blow off valve like the tial and weld it in myself? or do i have to purchase all new charge piping in order to put a "real" BOV on it
Last edited by cblt2469; Jan 1, 2015 at 07:39 PM.
I ran a HKS SSQV on Injen pipes for a couple years. You have to weld the flange onto the charge pipes.
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From: riverside
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From: Calgary
Thread Starter
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Joined: 12-26-14
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From: riverside
i know you are all going to yell at me but i think im going to run the stattama, it takes tial rebuild kits, and its only 70$ instead of 250. my dad welds, so ill just have him weld in the needed flange, and then put the block off plate on and call it a day.
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From: Calgary
That's fine with me I know Infraredline runs that BOV on his 600hp build
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 12-26-14
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From: riverside
Senior Member
Joined: 01-21-12
Posts: 6,896
Likes: 96
From: Calgary
Senior Member
Joined: 01-21-12
Posts: 6,896
Likes: 96
From: Calgary
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 12-26-14
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: riverside
ok so here is my 2 cents... ill give you some background about me so you know who i am......
I currently work at Performance Autowerks as the lead technician and fabricator. I have been messing with the lnf since 07 when it debuted and I have been messing with the cobalts, ions and kappas since 04 05 06. I personally owned a cobalt ss that made modified magazine and at the time held the highest hp for a completely stock motor with no additional fueling or anything like that. 442whp 450 ft lbs with the original lnf beta that had no fueling tables and no boost control tables. So the car literally just had our turbo kit bolted to it with a completely stock motor. Since then people have surpassed it. So no big deal. We have built evos that put down a lot of power as well as many lsx and neon srt-4s. Passed that my history goes as a collision repair and paint tech. I have owned both road race and drag cars as well i work on a nostalgia nitro funny car team handling the bottom end and starting of the car.
I dont care how cocky this will sound but its the truth. To be totally honest i will not spend hours looking on the internet to find technical articles for you to prove my knowledge. Enough people here back me on a lot of things and People on here know im true and back up what i say and do. So i will tell you what i have had years of experience with and what i know works on these cars and what doesnt for the sake of yourself. I have fixed many broken cars that people go against what the knowledge say or dont listen to the knowledgeable because they need to have wiki proof. So take my advice or dont, i wont be butt hurt about it or anything of the sort. Most people know i dont even post as much as i use to anymore because people dont listen......but when their cares blow a rod from detonating the cylinders and so on and so forth they want my help at all hours of the night. I dedicate a lot of my time helping people off this forum.... even driving 2 hours round trip to a customers house at 1am in a snowstorm last year to help him get his car to shut off when the key got stuck in the lock cylinder.
So heres my 2 cents
Bov - do you need it? no..... if you go with certain big turbo kits yes. Tial, percision, synapse and procharger make the best ones. hands down. This is proven on the race scale time and time again. I really dont have to elaborate on it much because if you look at any quality built kit its usually coming with those companies components. My opinion with it compared to the forge is that they work awesome, hold pressure better, sound better and give you a lot more room to grow(even though it doesnt sound like you will be going big turbo). the tial comes with a aluminum flange so you could have a local shop weld it on for you.
the bpv - They work and work fine..... they are their from an oem manufactuer. Sure they rip but guess what ? its a wear and tear item. Just like your engine, turbo, tires etc etc. They are cheap to replace and hold pressure just fine.... I mean when i had my efr setup i boosted the thing to 32psi and never blew it apart. to give you an idea borg warners puts the same bpv on the efr for racing. Indy car runs the same bpv setup.
Forge - nicely made piece... the issues i had with my vta one was a manufacturing defect where the piston under heavy load even with the heavier spring was binding. yes i know how to disassemble and lube the piston. Also i hated the fact i could hear the thing suck itself close. Another reason why i like the bov and standard bpv. I run a regular forge and it does the job i need just fine and a lot of our customers option them on our efr setups with no issues. The flutter everyone keeps hearing is some what normal... put an intake on a solstice or sky and you hear it with the stock bpv.... it just seems to be a sound they make.
the gauges - the car monitors EVERYTHING YOU NEED. trust me when i say this. especially if you intend to go road racing. the zzp pillar pod is annoying when your looking into a left hand turn. thats why i went to a dash pod. 2 interceptors will do you just fine. They literally read afr, oil temp, cam phase angle, maf frequency, rail pressure, coolant temp(which your dic reads too) and a whole bunch of other things. Use your cel lights for oil pressure and stuff like that because as i have said before buy the time your realize your pressure is dropping off it will be too late.
have you been on track yet? if not i strongly recommend taking the car out there stock to see what your starting with and how the car handles.... You would be amazed at how much of a difference things will make. My new cobalt that i took out with rs3 tires only and no bolt ons no tune no nothing kept up with cars that should of walked circles around me. This car is a great handling car.
im sure i missed some stuff so feel free to shoot the questions.
I currently work at Performance Autowerks as the lead technician and fabricator. I have been messing with the lnf since 07 when it debuted and I have been messing with the cobalts, ions and kappas since 04 05 06. I personally owned a cobalt ss that made modified magazine and at the time held the highest hp for a completely stock motor with no additional fueling or anything like that. 442whp 450 ft lbs with the original lnf beta that had no fueling tables and no boost control tables. So the car literally just had our turbo kit bolted to it with a completely stock motor. Since then people have surpassed it. So no big deal. We have built evos that put down a lot of power as well as many lsx and neon srt-4s. Passed that my history goes as a collision repair and paint tech. I have owned both road race and drag cars as well i work on a nostalgia nitro funny car team handling the bottom end and starting of the car.
I dont care how cocky this will sound but its the truth. To be totally honest i will not spend hours looking on the internet to find technical articles for you to prove my knowledge. Enough people here back me on a lot of things and People on here know im true and back up what i say and do. So i will tell you what i have had years of experience with and what i know works on these cars and what doesnt for the sake of yourself. I have fixed many broken cars that people go against what the knowledge say or dont listen to the knowledgeable because they need to have wiki proof. So take my advice or dont, i wont be butt hurt about it or anything of the sort. Most people know i dont even post as much as i use to anymore because people dont listen......but when their cares blow a rod from detonating the cylinders and so on and so forth they want my help at all hours of the night. I dedicate a lot of my time helping people off this forum.... even driving 2 hours round trip to a customers house at 1am in a snowstorm last year to help him get his car to shut off when the key got stuck in the lock cylinder.
So heres my 2 cents
Bov - do you need it? no..... if you go with certain big turbo kits yes. Tial, percision, synapse and procharger make the best ones. hands down. This is proven on the race scale time and time again. I really dont have to elaborate on it much because if you look at any quality built kit its usually coming with those companies components. My opinion with it compared to the forge is that they work awesome, hold pressure better, sound better and give you a lot more room to grow(even though it doesnt sound like you will be going big turbo). the tial comes with a aluminum flange so you could have a local shop weld it on for you.
the bpv - They work and work fine..... they are their from an oem manufactuer. Sure they rip but guess what ? its a wear and tear item. Just like your engine, turbo, tires etc etc. They are cheap to replace and hold pressure just fine.... I mean when i had my efr setup i boosted the thing to 32psi and never blew it apart. to give you an idea borg warners puts the same bpv on the efr for racing. Indy car runs the same bpv setup.
Forge - nicely made piece... the issues i had with my vta one was a manufacturing defect where the piston under heavy load even with the heavier spring was binding. yes i know how to disassemble and lube the piston. Also i hated the fact i could hear the thing suck itself close. Another reason why i like the bov and standard bpv. I run a regular forge and it does the job i need just fine and a lot of our customers option them on our efr setups with no issues. The flutter everyone keeps hearing is some what normal... put an intake on a solstice or sky and you hear it with the stock bpv.... it just seems to be a sound they make.
the gauges - the car monitors EVERYTHING YOU NEED. trust me when i say this. especially if you intend to go road racing. the zzp pillar pod is annoying when your looking into a left hand turn. thats why i went to a dash pod. 2 interceptors will do you just fine. They literally read afr, oil temp, cam phase angle, maf frequency, rail pressure, coolant temp(which your dic reads too) and a whole bunch of other things. Use your cel lights for oil pressure and stuff like that because as i have said before buy the time your realize your pressure is dropping off it will be too late.
have you been on track yet? if not i strongly recommend taking the car out there stock to see what your starting with and how the car handles.... You would be amazed at how much of a difference things will make. My new cobalt that i took out with rs3 tires only and no bolt ons no tune no nothing kept up with cars that should of walked circles around me. This car is a great handling car.
im sure i missed some stuff so feel free to shoot the questions.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 12-26-14
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: riverside
ok so here is my 2 cents... ill give you some background about me so you know who i am......
I currently work at Performance Autowerks as the lead technician and fabricator. I have been messing with the lnf since 07 when it debuted and I have been messing with the cobalts, ions and kappas since 04 05 06. I personally owned a cobalt ss that made modified magazine and at the time held the highest hp for a completely stock motor with no additional fueling or anything like that. 442whp 450 ft lbs with the original lnf beta that had no fueling tables and no boost control tables. So the car literally just had our turbo kit bolted to it with a completely stock motor. Since then people have surpassed it. So no big deal. We have built evos that put down a lot of power as well as many lsx and neon srt-4s. Passed that my history goes as a collision repair and paint tech. I have owned both road race and drag cars as well i work on a nostalgia nitro funny car team handling the bottom end and starting of the car.
I dont care how cocky this will sound but its the truth. To be totally honest i will not spend hours looking on the internet to find technical articles for you to prove my knowledge. Enough people here back me on a lot of things and People on here know im true and back up what i say and do. So i will tell you what i have had years of experience with and what i know works on these cars and what doesnt for the sake of yourself. I have fixed many broken cars that people go against what the knowledge say or dont listen to the knowledgeable because they need to have wiki proof. So take my advice or dont, i wont be butt hurt about it or anything of the sort. Most people know i dont even post as much as i use to anymore because people dont listen......but when their cares blow a rod from detonating the cylinders and so on and so forth they want my help at all hours of the night. I dedicate a lot of my time helping people off this forum.... even driving 2 hours round trip to a customers house at 1am in a snowstorm last year to help him get his car to shut off when the key got stuck in the lock cylinder.
So heres my 2 cents
Bov - do you need it? no..... if you go with certain big turbo kits yes. Tial, percision, synapse and procharger make the best ones. hands down. This is proven on the race scale time and time again. I really dont have to elaborate on it much because if you look at any quality built kit its usually coming with those companies components. My opinion with it compared to the forge is that they work awesome, hold pressure better, sound better and give you a lot more room to grow(even though it doesnt sound like you will be going big turbo). the tial comes with a aluminum flange so you could have a local shop weld it on for you.
the bpv - They work and work fine..... they are their from an oem manufactuer. Sure they rip but guess what ? its a wear and tear item. Just like your engine, turbo, tires etc etc. They are cheap to replace and hold pressure just fine.... I mean when i had my efr setup i boosted the thing to 32psi and never blew it apart. to give you an idea borg warners puts the same bpv on the efr for racing. Indy car runs the same bpv setup.
Forge - nicely made piece... the issues i had with my vta one was a manufacturing defect where the piston under heavy load even with the heavier spring was binding. yes i know how to disassemble and lube the piston. Also i hated the fact i could hear the thing suck itself close. Another reason why i like the bov and standard bpv. I run a regular forge and it does the job i need just fine and a lot of our customers option them on our efr setups with no issues. The flutter everyone keeps hearing is some what normal... put an intake on a solstice or sky and you hear it with the stock bpv.... it just seems to be a sound they make.
the gauges - the car monitors EVERYTHING YOU NEED. trust me when i say this. especially if you intend to go road racing. the zzp pillar pod is annoying when your looking into a left hand turn. thats why i went to a dash pod. 2 interceptors will do you just fine. They literally read afr, oil temp, cam phase angle, maf frequency, rail pressure, coolant temp(which your dic reads too) and a whole bunch of other things. Use your cel lights for oil pressure and stuff like that because as i have said before buy the time your realize your pressure is dropping off it will be too late.
have you been on track yet? if not i strongly recommend taking the car out there stock to see what your starting with and how the car handles.... You would be amazed at how much of a difference things will make. My new cobalt that i took out with rs3 tires only and no bolt ons no tune no nothing kept up with cars that should of walked circles around me. This car is a great handling car.
im sure i missed some stuff so feel free to shoot the questions.
I currently work at Performance Autowerks as the lead technician and fabricator. I have been messing with the lnf since 07 when it debuted and I have been messing with the cobalts, ions and kappas since 04 05 06. I personally owned a cobalt ss that made modified magazine and at the time held the highest hp for a completely stock motor with no additional fueling or anything like that. 442whp 450 ft lbs with the original lnf beta that had no fueling tables and no boost control tables. So the car literally just had our turbo kit bolted to it with a completely stock motor. Since then people have surpassed it. So no big deal. We have built evos that put down a lot of power as well as many lsx and neon srt-4s. Passed that my history goes as a collision repair and paint tech. I have owned both road race and drag cars as well i work on a nostalgia nitro funny car team handling the bottom end and starting of the car.
I dont care how cocky this will sound but its the truth. To be totally honest i will not spend hours looking on the internet to find technical articles for you to prove my knowledge. Enough people here back me on a lot of things and People on here know im true and back up what i say and do. So i will tell you what i have had years of experience with and what i know works on these cars and what doesnt for the sake of yourself. I have fixed many broken cars that people go against what the knowledge say or dont listen to the knowledgeable because they need to have wiki proof. So take my advice or dont, i wont be butt hurt about it or anything of the sort. Most people know i dont even post as much as i use to anymore because people dont listen......but when their cares blow a rod from detonating the cylinders and so on and so forth they want my help at all hours of the night. I dedicate a lot of my time helping people off this forum.... even driving 2 hours round trip to a customers house at 1am in a snowstorm last year to help him get his car to shut off when the key got stuck in the lock cylinder.
So heres my 2 cents
Bov - do you need it? no..... if you go with certain big turbo kits yes. Tial, percision, synapse and procharger make the best ones. hands down. This is proven on the race scale time and time again. I really dont have to elaborate on it much because if you look at any quality built kit its usually coming with those companies components. My opinion with it compared to the forge is that they work awesome, hold pressure better, sound better and give you a lot more room to grow(even though it doesnt sound like you will be going big turbo). the tial comes with a aluminum flange so you could have a local shop weld it on for you.
the bpv - They work and work fine..... they are their from an oem manufactuer. Sure they rip but guess what ? its a wear and tear item. Just like your engine, turbo, tires etc etc. They are cheap to replace and hold pressure just fine.... I mean when i had my efr setup i boosted the thing to 32psi and never blew it apart. to give you an idea borg warners puts the same bpv on the efr for racing. Indy car runs the same bpv setup.
Forge - nicely made piece... the issues i had with my vta one was a manufacturing defect where the piston under heavy load even with the heavier spring was binding. yes i know how to disassemble and lube the piston. Also i hated the fact i could hear the thing suck itself close. Another reason why i like the bov and standard bpv. I run a regular forge and it does the job i need just fine and a lot of our customers option them on our efr setups with no issues. The flutter everyone keeps hearing is some what normal... put an intake on a solstice or sky and you hear it with the stock bpv.... it just seems to be a sound they make.
the gauges - the car monitors EVERYTHING YOU NEED. trust me when i say this. especially if you intend to go road racing. the zzp pillar pod is annoying when your looking into a left hand turn. thats why i went to a dash pod. 2 interceptors will do you just fine. They literally read afr, oil temp, cam phase angle, maf frequency, rail pressure, coolant temp(which your dic reads too) and a whole bunch of other things. Use your cel lights for oil pressure and stuff like that because as i have said before buy the time your realize your pressure is dropping off it will be too late.
have you been on track yet? if not i strongly recommend taking the car out there stock to see what your starting with and how the car handles.... You would be amazed at how much of a difference things will make. My new cobalt that i took out with rs3 tires only and no bolt ons no tune no nothing kept up with cars that should of walked circles around me. This car is a great handling car.
im sure i missed some stuff so feel free to shoot the questions.
now i do have a question. if i bought the 2 gauges, i dont have to buy the AFR sensor with it? it reads it off of the obd2 port? thats my main question that im confused on. i didnt think the obd2 read wideband afr's. and yes i have been to the track, with a cobalt ss/tc no. with a ss/sc yes, and with an srt-4. as well. i know these cars are crazy great turning cars, thats why i dont want much more than 300. because theres no need. with a good set of tires, maybe a little traction mods, and 300 would be stupid fun on the track, not only in turns and braking, but then down the straights to keep up with high end cars. thanks again for you taking the time to write that info up that seriously was great info.
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Joined: 04-12-09
Posts: 4,869
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
In the end, IMO, it's really just a nonsense way to spend far too much money for a silly noise maker that will ultimately just cause you more headaches than it's worth. Take it from a few of us here on here that have done it enough times on enough vehicles to know. A bov on a stock turbo LNF is just not worth it.
Platinum Member
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Joined: 04-12-09
Posts: 4,869
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
thanks for all the info! thats a lot of great and very valued info, i wasnt going to run an aftermarket bov becuase i didnt think about welding in the flange. with that being said ill be opting for an actual BOV. are they needed.. no and i realize that, but i want it.
now i do have a question. if i bought the 2 gauges, i dont have to buy the AFR sensor with it? it reads it off of the obd2 port? thats my main question that im confused on. i didnt think the obd2 read wideband afr's. and yes i have been to the track, with a cobalt ss/tc no. with a ss/sc yes, and with an srt-4. as well. i know these cars are crazy great turning cars, thats why i dont want much more than 300. because theres no need. with a good set of tires, maybe a little traction mods, and 300 would be stupid fun on the track, not only in turns and braking, but then down the straights to keep up with high end cars. thanks again for you taking the time to write that info up that seriously was great info.
now i do have a question. if i bought the 2 gauges, i dont have to buy the AFR sensor with it? it reads it off of the obd2 port? thats my main question that im confused on. i didnt think the obd2 read wideband afr's. and yes i have been to the track, with a cobalt ss/tc no. with a ss/sc yes, and with an srt-4. as well. i know these cars are crazy great turning cars, thats why i dont want much more than 300. because theres no need. with a good set of tires, maybe a little traction mods, and 300 would be stupid fun on the track, not only in turns and braking, but then down the straights to keep up with high end cars. thanks again for you taking the time to write that info up that seriously was great info.
Senior Member
Joined: 01-21-12
Posts: 6,896
Likes: 96
From: Calgary
NO! You will 100% go into limp mode and throw a P0101 dtc without question if done that way with the maf in the stock location. The tial bov (along with any correctly setup bov) will remain slightly open at idle and as a result, create a mechanical open loop in your boost circuit. With a draw through maf system this is a BIG no no. In order to run a consistent setup with a vta bov that isn't overly (and now thusly incorrectly) adjusted, you must relocate the maf further down in the charge stream.
In the end, IMO, it's really just a nonsense way to spend far too much money for a silly noise maker that will ultimately just cause you more headaches than it's worth. Take it from a few of us here on here that have done it enough times on enough vehicles to know. A bov on a stock turbo LNF is just not worth it.
In the end, IMO, it's really just a nonsense way to spend far too much money for a silly noise maker that will ultimately just cause you more headaches than it's worth. Take it from a few of us here on here that have done it enough times on enough vehicles to know. A bov on a stock turbo LNF is just not worth it.