my LNF build thread
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From: riverside
You do not need the aft kit with the aeroforce and an lnf. The car has a wideband parameter built into the ecu and if you look at the sensor it looks like every Bosch wideband with a different plug end. Buy the gauge plug it in and that's all you need. As I said before I run 3 interceptors because it reads everything important. You do not need additional gauges.
Trifectas esp tune is wrong. Anytime you vent to atmosphere you need a. Maf relocation . No if ands our buts. Your issue is that the car will spike rich when already metered air leaves the system. With the maf staying its original place it meters air and when you blow off its like where the he'll did the air go? It spikes rich to compensate. All these tuners that think it can be done are wrong. You might not feel it when you drive but watch a data log and its there. The knowlesgable people on this site know that
I'll be honest it doesn't seem like what I'm relaying is getting through to you what so ever. I spend more time on a race track probably then anyone in here along with John Powell wangspeed colordude and a few others. I developed all the parts along side my boss that are race track proven to work and last before we release anything to the public. So trust me when the things I say are for your own good and not because I feel like wasting my time writing out long posts
Trifectas esp tune is wrong. Anytime you vent to atmosphere you need a. Maf relocation . No if ands our buts. Your issue is that the car will spike rich when already metered air leaves the system. With the maf staying its original place it meters air and when you blow off its like where the he'll did the air go? It spikes rich to compensate. All these tuners that think it can be done are wrong. You might not feel it when you drive but watch a data log and its there. The knowlesgable people on this site know that
I'll be honest it doesn't seem like what I'm relaying is getting through to you what so ever. I spend more time on a race track probably then anyone in here along with John Powell wangspeed colordude and a few others. I developed all the parts along side my boss that are race track proven to work and last before we release anything to the public. So trust me when the things I say are for your own good and not because I feel like wasting my time writing out long posts
Not sure if you didn't read all the posts or not. No big deal. I get now that the lnf has a wideband built in. I was unaware of this. Now I'm aware of it. Thank you. As for tuning for a bov with stock maf location I'm 100% on board I knew this before I started this post. That's why I was purchasing the maf relocate lower charge pipes.
as for what your saying not getting through to me. I'm a little confused. Your actually the only one so far that I've listened to. Because of your posts. I've decided to do the aeroforce gauges. I've decided to run a real BOV not the vta forge bpv. So im confused on that part. I appreciate your inpute. Maybe you could answer a question though. Up a few posts. A member said that when he was BOV he had jerkiness in first gear. Is that normal or is that tune related? Or could he not drive? (lol jk) haha. He also said it takes longer to build boost. I get that. The recirculating bpv sends the air back in front of the turbo and at such an angle that it helps with spool time. I'm okay with losing a tiny bit of performance. But those other two things I'm curious about. Thanks.
I've installed multiple lower charge pipes and intercoolers and I have yet to move an intercooler more than an inch at the most. You can't even tell its moved. Plus once you have the all the pipes and everything connected loosen the brackets on both sides of the intercooler and slide it either way.
I've installed multiple lower charge pipes and intercoolers and I have yet to move an intercooler more than an inch at the most. You can't even tell its moved. Plus once you have the all the pipes and everything connected loosen the brackets on both sides of the intercooler and slide it either way.
So now I never have to remove the bumper to move the IC and I can get the LC in/out without removing anything except 3 clamps.
If you look at the spot the end tanks meet the core you can totally tell if it is crooked; at least on my Hahn.
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A vta bov won't cause any "jerkiness" with a correct setup and tune, although the LNF is inherently slightly jerky in 1st gear at very low speeds in general to begin with. I've tuned many vta bov setups with no issues as long as the setup is correct, and the vacuum side of the bov is 100% free of leaks. On my personal setup I run BOTH a standard forge recirc bpv and a synapse diverter valve with my EFR (I'm personally a fan of synapse DV/BOV's). Only reason I personally went with both was to get a faster pressure release response in between shifts when in wot high boost conditions. Neither the stock bpv or the forge valve alone was fast enough responding for my liking with the EFR.
Long and short of it, there should be no real issues with a vta bov as long as everything works together correctly with your setup.
Long and short of it, there should be no real issues with a vta bov as long as everything works together correctly with your setup.
i didnt notice any jerkiness in first gear. did you have your maf relocated? i thought the ecp tune was for no relocated mafs? trying to run a BOV without relocating and they found a way to tune it out almost completely? to where it would have a rich spike in between shifts only. and wasnt that bad.
I dont suppose anyone has a boost gauge video of a before and after? BOV vs BPV? haha.. if not ill make one and do a overlap so they are side by side same video and you can see the difference in boost build for future reference.
I got sick of the crappy ECP tune and got rid of my BOV setup. I'd assume cars with proper tuning with MAF relocation would drive better but I don't have any experience with that.
Vince can't tune ****. That is the problem.
A HP Tuners repository tune was better than the Trifecta tune that was on my LSJ. When a canned tune is better than a logged and adjusted tune, you know the tuner is not worth it.
A HP Tuners repository tune was better than the Trifecta tune that was on my LSJ. When a canned tune is better than a logged and adjusted tune, you know the tuner is not worth it.
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From: riverside
A vta bov won't cause any "jerkiness" with a correct setup and tune, although the LNF is inherently slightly jerky in 1st gear at very low speeds in general to begin with. I've tuned many vta bov setups with no issues as long as the setup is correct, and the vacuum side of the bov is 100% free of leaks. On my personal setup I run BOTH a standard forge recirc bpv and a synapse diverter valve with my EFR (I'm personally a fan of synapse DV/BOV's). Only reason I personally went with both was to get a faster pressure release response in between shifts when in wot high boost conditions. Neither the stock bpv or the forge valve alone was fast enough responding for my liking with the EFR.
Long and short of it, there should be no real issues with a vta bov as long as everything works together correctly with your setup.
Long and short of it, there should be no real issues with a vta bov as long as everything works together correctly with your setup.
so after 4 pages of talking and deciding. this is the new plan,
1. injen CAI - installed
2. injen upper charge pipes - installed
3. stattama 50mm BOV -
4. dual aeroforce gauges -
5. 200 cell down pipe -
6. zzp intercooler (smaller version) -
7. lower charge pipes for maf relocate -
8. HP tuners base package.
9. custom tune by zzp.
10. block off plate for bpv.
goals are 300+ as long as i hit 300 ill be happy anymore is just a bonus
besides all the dont do a sound maker people any complaints on what im doing now?
Do you have visual inspection for emissions to where you need a cat? Do a short ram intake too. Don't bother with a cold air unless you have it already. have
I'll explain my theory on the bovs to you. Open vs closed loops and why recirculating is better
I'll explain my theory on the bovs to you. Open vs closed loops and why recirculating is better
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From: riverside
lol but im all ears on all the benifits of a recirc, vs bov
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From: riverside
okay so i have a new question, the zzp catted downpipe im assuming come with all the bungs for the original o2 sensors so that the AFR will stilll read? or do i need to buy it with the additional o2 bung welded in for a AFR?
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From: riverside
the reason recirculating blow off valves work well on these cars is because you are never loosing air pressure throughout the system. the tial qr is what i normally use for that purpose. it will plumb everything right back into the intake. when your vent to atmosphere your loosing all that air pressure into the atmosphere.
Buy a good blow off valve man. the percision stuff works well and its a little bit cheaper....
Buy a good blow off valve man. the percision stuff works well and its a little bit cheaper....
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From: riverside
the reason recirculating blow off valves work well on these cars is because you are never loosing air pressure throughout the system. the tial qr is what i normally use for that purpose. it will plumb everything right back into the intake. when your vent to atmosphere your loosing all that air pressure into the atmosphere.
Buy a good blow off valve man. the percision stuff works well and its a little bit cheaper....
Buy a good blow off valve man. the percision stuff works well and its a little bit cheaper....
See what I don't get is is your going to get into a costly motorsport even just for fun it's costly. Idc how much power someonemakes because they can have 1 out of the thousand that actually works well and so on and so forth. My goal is to help you prep your car not ruin a weekend you spent money to race on. I get your point in wanting to save a buck but my point is to prep a car that can run all weekend. My car drives daily and drives to and from the track and. Has yet to ever slip up.
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From: riverside
See what I don't get is is your going to get into a costly motorsport even just for fun it's costly. Idc how much power someonemakes because they can have 1 out of the thousand that actually works well and so on and so forth. My goal is to help you prep your car not ruin a weekend you spent money to race on. I get your point in wanting to save a buck but my point is to prep a car that can run all weekend. My car drives daily and drives to and from the track and. Has yet to ever slip up.
Never even heard of them and I've been around cars my entire life. Like I said look at any car that's fast and reliable and most of them run precision or tial or the big procharher valves. like I said my goal is to help you prep your car not possibly put a blow off valve that might or might now work under the conditions. Road racing isn't drag racing and you use the throttle a lot more and it will be working a lot harder. Especially on a short track where your constantly using throttle for control. Everything wears and tears and I'm sure some trials have broken but they are on top for a reason. So my point is is that I'm telling to use something I know works vs using something that might or might not work. I never had to rebuild my tial stuff. both wastegates and and bovs
Buy a BOV that can do both atmosphere and recirc. I have the Synapse BOV that can convert to recirc with a $25 adapter and 24" of 1.5" hose. I want to VTA, but if I get annoyed it's $25 and a weld on my intake to make it quieter.
Plus, I am ready for a 2871, 256, etc as well.
Plus, I am ready for a 2871, 256, etc as well.