You need to reroute your vac/boost lines. DO NOT use the port on the bpv solenoid previously going to the bpv. You must must must get a direct unrestricted manifold source. There are a few reasons for this, including the part throttle/low boost flutter issue you're seeing. A block off plate doesn't need to be installed to do this properly.

I also second the welds looking a little dicey. Not to knock your welder, but, any good welder would correctly prep a surface prior to any welding. This would absolutely include proper solvents. It also looks like he mig welded the flange. A tig weld would look substantially better and leave quite a bit less chance for any leakage. Just my opinion.

 

I appreciate your opinion on the welds. I agree the look dicey. I watched him tig weld it. And as for not prepping that was my fault. He's in the process of moving. And doesn't have his shop set up. All he has is his welder at the moment. So i cut the holes for the bungs and prepped all the piping he just welded. And did what he could with the amount of splash back he was getting. They are air tight. But i will continue to check them. And when he moves in to his new place I will have him redo them.

As for the vacuum lines why can't I use the same line being used? The guy above me uses that same port. I don't understand what the difference is? Can you explain that? I don't mind rerouting. Just curious as to why that affects it?

 

^^^ he hit the nail on the head.

1. the surface should of been prepped out atleast another 1.5" in diamater to insure that no powdercoating or paint will melt off into the weld pool or flake off and fly into it. I had a june bug fly right into my weld pool once while i had the arc lit. you can imagine the explosion that made and destroyed my weld.

2. a mig or spool gun can be used but its clear the settings were not proper for the job but as stated a tig welder would of been optimal. both in appereance and it would of been easier to get a smaller, more penetrated, cleaner bead.

3. oil in the pipes is not an excuse... the fact that you guys knew there was oil and still continued to weld is kinda ehhhhhhh. this like a huge no no. doesnt matter what process you are using. prep is 50% of making a weld good. then the rest is machine and user. even if you used brake clean and aired out the pipe really well before welding it would of been a good idea. you always need to clean the surface. inside and out. those are welding basics.

sorry if i sound harsh man but i have to fix stuff like that on a daily basis and its a major headache especially with aluminum as its soft and likes to clog everything you can possibly use.

 

don't get an air fuel gauge, just get an interceptor gauge, it can do a/f and a lot of other things. in fact get the dual interceptor setup. then u have 4 gauge displays for the price of 2.

 

I've never welded. So i did what I thought prep work was. I cleaned paint off by the welded surface. I made the holes. And wiped off the part with a rag. I didn't realize that oil or anything would matter. I've seen his welds. They are really clean. He welded this in an empty garage with nothing but a tig welder there. So we did what we could to make them look as neat as possible. I get what your saying. But as I said I will watch them. If they leak I'll get them fixed. But I'm not worried about them leaking. When I got home I cleaned them up a little with a wire wheel. They look a lot better. And still air tight. I feel 100% confident in the welds holding as long as I own the car. But i understand what you mean. And i am by no means saying you are wrong because your not. But it is what it is right now. And all I can do is just wait to see if they pass. So far no issues.

 

Thanks. Already ordered them. On the way. Be here tomorrow went with 2 interceptors.

 

That's a tig weld? It sure looks like a mig weld if I've ever seen one, but who am I to judge.

Anyways.... As far as the vac line routing goes.

The reason you NEVER want to use the bpv solenoid line is mainly this. There are tables within the ecm that control the amount of vac/boost going to the bpv for certain given conditions. An aftermarket bov will simply not respond correctly to these sort of "corrected" conditions made via the bpv solenoid. For mainly that reason alone, you should not use that vac line to a bov. Please trust me on this. I guarantee your flutter will magically disappear once you do so.

For now, just route the line off of the solenoid back to the bpv nipple, "T" off of the primary vac port on the manifold and put one side back to feed the bpv solenoid, and the other to your DV.

 

yeah tig welding is where you are feeding rod manually and using a foot controller for heat and a torch in the other hand. mig is where you just have the torch with a trigger and it feeds the wire as the arc is struck automatically incase you dont know.

 

Oh no I believed you i already fixed it. I was just curious as to why. But you were right no more flutter at all :P. I did go into limp mode on the way to autozone to pick up a hose clamp for the air intake side. And that hose popped off on the way there. Computer then wouldn't build boost. Put the hose back on. And restarted the car it was fine.

 

Got some parts in today. Gauges. Downpipe and hp tuners. Should be able to go home not this weekend but next weekend. And be able to tune and install the downpipe and gauges. Maybe the intercooler as well. We will see how much time I have.

 

Sweet! the tune will make the biggest difference!!

 

Yup I can't wait. Gonna try and get off base not this weekend but next and install the downpipe. Gauges. And tune atleast. The intercooler may have to wait. Since I'll only have 1 day to install it all. But ill have to look that up and see how long the installs take when at home. But i can't wait.

Raced my dad's 2011 camaro ss last Sunday. From.about 35 to about 85ish. Stayed right next to him. He pulled me just a little but it was like half a car. At most. So once I'm tuned. I'll try it again lol. He's got intake exhaust. He will tune it as well when I get my hpt. Since I get extra credits.

 

Alright guys I finally got a weekend off and installed most of the goodies. I will be finishing up a lot of it today. I installed the gauges last night, along with the gm 3 bar map sensors. And i installed the zzp tune. AFR is running at about 12.7 wot is that agood afr? I'll be finishing up installing the downpipe today. Along with the block off plate and a few other little things. The intercooler probably won't be installed today. But we will see what time it is after the downpipe and block off plate are done


If you go to my photobucket (cptn2469) you can see more pics and there's a video with the gauges. Will poat more pics later with better lighting.

 

Does your zzp tune have a maf relocate?

 

too rich for me

 

I thought it was a little rich as well. I sent them a log of the car and he's gonna go over it again. What is a good afr to be at?

 

Just some pics of the installs today. When I installed the hue block off plate one of the holes was stripped. Idk if I did it or if it was already stripped. But one hole is no longer able to keep a bolt down. There's no leaking. It holds boost just fine. (I'm obviously going to get it fixed asap) but will this cause no problems in the me an time? Thanks.

 

12.7 really is not all that rich. Is it slightly richer than it maybe could be in a LNF? Sure. Is it THAT rich. Not at all.

.87 - .89 lambda (12.8-13.1afr) is optimal depending on rpm, load, boost and timing. 12.7afr (.86 lambda) really isn't going to hurt anything in the least though.

 

Agreed.

 

Would missing that one bolt to the block off plate cause knock? The scan gauges are reading knock. Drive out to my grandmas and back I have 176 counts. Thanks for the info. It's either the tune. Or that bolt that's missing. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

Set then to view it and see how many degrees.

 

Well it was reading around 4* a member on here helped me out and got rid of the knock. Then I fixed a boost leak I had. And the knock came back. He then fixed it again. Huge help. I'll be emailing my tuner the final log today and hope he gets back to me on Monday and we can start working on the tune itself. But knocks gone. Block off plate fixed. 09cobaltss does your synapse valve swivel? I feel like no mater how tight I tighten it it always moves just a little. Like I can twist it around on its post. Is this normal? Thanks for the help

 

Mine stays pretty well firmly in place actually. Are you using the o-rings that came with the flange?

 

yeah im not saying its too rich for other cars.... with the lnf its too rich for me. thats just my personal preference. i am by all means not telling anyone to go out and run their car as lean as i run mine.

yeah it wont hurt anything being a little rich or a little lean. if your way off the spectrum to one end or the other its an issue.

that knock has to go..

 

I always found going leaner than 0.89-0.90PE lambda even on e-47 and E-85 resulted in losses either on the dyno or the 60-100 times. OP who is tuning you?