No-lift shift
thats not true, iv never been in comp mode and it worked all the time, just make sure ur at wot and ur rpms dont have to be at readline, but they should be pretty high. make sure u shift fast. Trust me once u do it right, u'll know, its fricken awesome. u'll get pushed into ur seat nicely. 

It really does only take a fraction of a second to be holding at red line and shift. If it took 1 second and you shifted three times in the quarter mile you'd lose 3 seconds. Most good drivers do shift that quick. I don't think the 300 milliseconds is a "hard" limit where the engine cuts out or anything, but if you are holding the gas pedal to the floor and shift like molasses and go over that amount your boost will probably start to fall off.
Also if you do the shift just right and quick enough you don't always get the popping sound. A single pop is normal and fine but if you're getting multiple pops you may want to evaluate how soon and how quick you're shifting. And I can't stress this enough and said it before in this thread, just because you shift a little quicker than normal you don't need to physically hammer on the shifter. Just do it normal but quick and you'll be fine.
Also if you do the shift just right and quick enough you don't always get the popping sound. A single pop is normal and fine but if you're getting multiple pops you may want to evaluate how soon and how quick you're shifting. And I can't stress this enough and said it before in this thread, just because you shift a little quicker than normal you don't need to physically hammer on the shifter. Just do it normal but quick and you'll be fine.
I am very curious as to whether or not the electronics use a torque limiter during the NLS. I'm just concerned about the long-term life of my vehicle, after the wonderful 100K mi. warranty.
As exciting as the NLS is, I don't see myself using the NLS everytime I get onto freeways or even on a road course track day, if its putting ridiculous amounts of stress on components.
Forgetting about whether or not torque is limited, where specifically is the shock being delivered to during the NLS? I know its somewhere in the clutch components (which is a wear item, so that wouldn't bother me so much). I'm thinking it's the diaphragm springs, and the release bearings, which are also wear items. Those don't bother me so much, although the engine / transmission mounts definitely take up some of the force. I know those aren't wear items, and I hate pressing out bushings for engine mounts. Hydraulic presses scare me.
Can anyone else think of any other components that are taking a beating during a NLS?
As exciting as the NLS is, I don't see myself using the NLS everytime I get onto freeways or even on a road course track day, if its putting ridiculous amounts of stress on components.
Forgetting about whether or not torque is limited, where specifically is the shock being delivered to during the NLS? I know its somewhere in the clutch components (which is a wear item, so that wouldn't bother me so much). I'm thinking it's the diaphragm springs, and the release bearings, which are also wear items. Those don't bother me so much, although the engine / transmission mounts definitely take up some of the force. I know those aren't wear items, and I hate pressing out bushings for engine mounts. Hydraulic presses scare me.
Can anyone else think of any other components that are taking a beating during a NLS?
Last edited by Motorway Justice; Jan 28, 2009 at 10:23 AM. Reason: proofread
If you're shifting normal but quickly the clutch disc is going to slip as the rpm's are held and the clutch is released after the upshift. GM supposedly tested and put a high capacity clutch in so that type of quick slip probably isn't that bad, especially since it does look to be torque managed/limited during the shift. It appears that the no-lift is primarily to provide better transient boost response. Just because you keep boost from falling as fast doesn't mean the engine is still making tons of torque. It doesn't take much energy to keep an engine not under load and already spinning at redline speed there for a fraction of a second longer during the no-lift upshift. I need to do some high-speed data logging to check, but going off GM info and how engine management works, during a no-lift shift they're keeping the throttle open so boost doesn't stack up in the intake tract and slow down the compressor and keep the diverter (e.g. BOV) shut so none vents off. They then retard timing and inject fuel a few times to keep the engine spinning and pumping air and providing a touch off exhaust gas velocity. Again not making tons of torque but allowing to get back into boost and power faster when the shift is complete. The biggest issue I see is those who just dump the clutch and hammer the gear shift lever trying to physically force a faster shift. That will cause way more driveline shock and long-term wear/damage. I still wouldn't be doing it every single shift but at the track and occasionally on the street shouldn't be too bad.
Last edited by blackbird; Jan 28, 2009 at 02:29 PM.
if you bring your car back in before the break in period as far as i know if they can tell you ragged on it or beat on it ( with no break in) they can scan the computer and see how hard it was ran. they can potentialy void the waranty ( just what i heard from my chevy dealer friend)
^wait a minute. i want to get an aftermarket tune. Can i take out mys tock ECM, buy another, tune it, and when i bring it in for service pop my stock ECM in. Or can they tell if I even remove my stock ECM.
no they can't do that as the mechanism that detects mileage isn't even in the ECM, but good luck getting a new ECM, getting one isn't the problem, but getting the clutch relearn on a blank ECM is, it has to be done by a GM service dept, good luck explaining that one to your dealer, lol
no they can't do that as the mechanism that detects mileage isn't even in the ECM, but good luck getting a new ECM, getting one isn't the problem, but getting the clutch relearn on a blank ECM is, it has to be done by a GM service dept, good luck explaining that one to your dealer, lol
This has been stated before, but fck it, I'll say it again. The tune doesnt void it, unless its what causes the problem, and secondly, why is everyone trying to pull one over on GM by wanting to switch ECU's. Thats part of the reason car companies, fck it companies in general are so shady regarding warranties. BECAUSE some people are shady with the product the bought that is covered by warranty. Seriously guys, if you want an aftermarket tune, then suffer the consequence of POSIBLE warranty loss. Now I will get off my soapbox.
This has been stated before, but fck it, I'll say it again. The tune doesnt void it, unless its what causes the problem, and secondly, why is everyone trying to pull one over on GM by wanting to switch ECU's. Thats part of the reason car companies, fck it companies in general are so shady regarding warranties. BECAUSE some people are shady with the product the bought that is covered by warranty. Seriously guys, if you want an aftermarket tune, then suffer the consequence of POSIBLE warranty loss. Now I will get off my soapbox.
Last edited by 08inBama; Jan 29, 2009 at 05:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
tried NLS today 2x from 2nd to 3rd and admittingly missed both times. My turbo sneezed and my RPM's bounced to the red line. It wasnt voilent or anything but just didnt serve its purpose. 3rd to 4th is much easier but id be speeding like a ************ to test that out
^hahahahaha. omg the visual i just got. my gf was hammered one night and almost threw up in my car. I felt guilty becasue i was definitly being a dick about throwin up in my car
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