2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

The pill and vacuum tank delete

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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 07:11 PM
  #76  
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BTF shows it going out to 35psi if you REALLY wanted to, what is overboosting?? lol
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 07:23 PM
  #77  
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u know what overboost is, and if u boost that thing that high enough ull find out what happens when u get overboost. lol Like i did with my talon.

BOOM !
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 07:47 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by tomj77
u know what overboost is, and if u boost that thing that high enough ull find out what happens when u get overboost. lol Like i did with my talon.

BOOM !
You look at a dsm the wrong way and it goes boom
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 07:58 PM
  #79  
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Not to mention the 4g63 is no LNF.. ZZP is making over 500whp on a stock block LNF, I doubt anything the K04 can throw at it would hurt it if it was tuned right. The turbo is a different story.
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 09:24 PM
  #80  
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I didnt read all this, but if we tuned it, can you use this to help the stock turbo hold boost till redline? cause it falls of real bad after like 5800rpms.
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 11:17 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by peachpuff
You look at a dsm the wrong way and it goes boom
the motor was jdm, out of an evo 3.
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 11:20 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by BYT*SS*TURBO
Not to mention the 4g63 is no LNF.. ZZP is making over 500whp on a stock block LNF, I doubt anything the K04 can throw at it would hurt it if it was tuned right. The turbo is a different story.
yes i know, there is makeing 500whp, then there is putting 35psi into the motor. U dont need 35 psi to make 500whp with the right parts. There is only so much air pressure the motor will take before u break it, and boosting the crap out of it like that without doing it right will get u nothing but a blown motor.
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 03:17 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by tomj77
i just find that unpredictable. at least with a boost controller u wont worry about suddenly overboosting.

U could make one for probably as cheap as ur welding tip.
I actually made a MBC, it was unpredicatble as well. But, the way you get around that is adjusting the tables in HPT. Like we said, if you don't understand this car inside and out, leave well enough alone. It can go devastatingly wrong.
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 04:36 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by tomj77
the motor was jdm, out of an evo 3.
Aren't those 7bolt motor's? I had an awd 1g for a long time, this is probably the best car to get you cheaply hooked on turbo's, it'll make you a certified mechanic in no time.
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 08:10 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by peachpuff
Aren't those 7bolt motor's? I had an awd 1g for a long time, this is probably the best car to get you cheaply hooked on turbo's, it'll make you a certified mechanic in no time.
no it was still a 6 bolt. And yes, i did learn alot from working on it. lol
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 12:00 PM
  #86  
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Canister Mod

Originally Posted by hiltu
UPDATED IN BOLD
Yesterday i finished up the pill mod going for the 0.035" welding tip. My car from a pull of about 3500RPM or greater would spike to about 25PSI and hold 21PSI all the way to 7000RPM. If i tried a pull from a lower RPM it would peg the boost gauge at 30PSI (HPT limit is 255KPA = ~22PSI and my logs showed it maxed out through out the pull). This landed me in limp mode. Turning the igniton on and off 3 times got me out of it. Still not wanting to risk blowing something up boosting who knows how much past 30PSI, i just installed the 0.045" welding tip. I have not driven the car yet but im definitely hoping for less spike but still maintaining 21PSI to 7000RPM. Prior to this mod i was boosting 22PSI and tapering to 21PSI by 7000RPM. The cost of the 2 welding tips including tax came out to an even $3. I will post my experience with the 0.045" tip when i get some good runs in. Other than more boost i have noticed essientially all the lag i had dissappear between the pill and vacuum tank delete. Next is the dyno...

I've noticed now in my 2nd gear pulls that boost is tapering off. I believe its the learndown/torque management acting up. I experienced similar results with the installation of my catless downpipe. On my very first 3rd gear pull, i hit 26PSI and held 24PSI to 7K. Tomorrow will confirm my suspicions if i taper off to 21PSI by 7K in 3rd gear.

UPDATE: 3rd gear pulls still netting 25PSI and around 24PSI to redline, 2nd gear pulls still taper off to 22-21PSI at redline.
Does anyone remember the thread about deleating the vacuum canister on the 2008 09 SS Tc ? I cant seem to find it. Thanks J.R.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 08:55 AM
  #87  
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I think Ill try a .060 restrictor first as soon has this foot of snow goes away. Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 11:19 AM
  #88  
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I don't think you'll see any gain with an .060, .045 just barely adds some boost but I'm tuned when I try it.

Don't mess with it stock or you'll throw some overboost CEL's.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 10:36 PM
  #89  
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060

Originally Posted by Iam Broke
I don't think you'll see any gain with an .060, .045 just barely adds some boost but I'm tuned when I try it.

Don't mess with it stock or you'll throw some overboost CEL's.
Im running the Trifecta Infinaboost Dual tune. I have a OBD2 scanner which I can data log with also as well as the Trifecta cable and software. I have been useing the winter to practice on the laptop so I can start tuning some other cars in the spring. I had the car out tonight and it was boosting around 15psi at 3/4 throttle and felt very strong on the tune. I think the tank and selenoid delete may have helped. I need to get it out when the roads are a little safer.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 07:38 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by hiltu
go to the first post. There is a picture of the line that you put the welding tip in. Jack up the front of your car and than get under it to basically just forward of where the passenger feet would go. You'll see where your intake goes into the turbo. You'll see a black "box" with an electrical connection and 3 vacuum tubes going into it. Just take off the vacuum tube from the bottom of the compressor side of the turbo (thats where the intake ends at). Either get a new vacuum line or cut the vacuum line you removed about 1-1.25" and place the smooth end of the welding tip in as far as you can. With the roughly 1" piece "thread" it onto the threaded side of the tip. The 2 separate pieces of tube should act as one now. Use a clamp and place it so it is directly in the middle of where you cut the tube. Clamp it down and than replace. Use caution if you try the 0.035" tip, you may overboost and peg the boost gauge at 30PSI. If so you will most likely go into limp mode. If so just cycle the engine on and off 3 times (i also open and shut the door everytime) and it will clear.
So do you have to put the welding tip in the center of the hose going from the boost silinoid to the turbo? Im thinking of going with a .045 after i get tuned.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 10:32 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by DoMiStIc_RuSh_06
So do you have to put the welding tip in the center of the hose going from the boost silinoid to the turbo? Im thinking of going with a .045 after i get tuned.

not center but i would say not to butt it at the end, you'll need to cut the vacuum tube as you won't be able to simply stuff it in there.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 11:41 AM
  #92  
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Pill

Originally Posted by hiltu
not center but i would say not to butt it at the end, you'll need to cut the vacuum tube as you won't be able to simply stuff it in there.
I was thinking of using a longer line so I could access it from the top of the engine for quicker changes.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 01:13 PM
  #93  
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From: Dark side of the Moon
Originally Posted by mongorat427
I was thinking of using a longer line so I could access it from the top of the engine for quicker changes.
I routed the line up top and zipped tied it to a bracket for easy access. Life is simpler with a few feet of 3/16" line. Next I can put a needle valve in it to make it adjustable.

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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 01:21 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Iam Broke
I routed the line up top and zipped tied it to a bracket for easy access. Life is simpler with a few feet of 3/16" line. Next I can put a needle valve in it to make it adjustable.

I seriously envy the color of your car Tom. I wanted imperial blue but all I could find was silver. I like the silver though. I have tuned 6 silvers LNF Cobalts now I think. Lots of silver and lots of black.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 06:14 PM
  #95  
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Thanks, it was pretty dirty when I snapped that pic. I had 4 to choose from at the dealer I bought it from. Watched them roll off the truck.

Black, Vic Red, Yellow & Imp Blue. Had a black & red car in the garage already, blue's always been my fav. The yellow one prob doesn't have any KR though.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 10:21 AM
  #96  
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will this give any advantages to a stock tuned tc? spool quicker or anything like that?

n/m just read the previous page...
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 10:35 AM
  #97  
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DO NOT do this if you are on the stock tune .... :facepalm:
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 11:23 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by wantedSS/TC
DO NOT do this if you are on the stock tune .... :facepalm:
X2. Vac tank delete is fine to do on the stock tune. Pill mod is not safe on the stock tune at all.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 11:36 AM
  #99  
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you will knock harder than my gf's camry - sounds like someone dumped marbles into her engine and they just get rattled all around like pissed off bees when she hits the accelerator
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 11:46 AM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by wantedSS/TC
you will knock harder than my gf's camry - sounds like someone dumped marbles into her engine and they just get rattled all around like pissed off bees when she hits the accelerator
I love how everyone says honda and toyota are so great. let me tell you none of their cars would take the beating an LNF will take one without failing.
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