Plug in Pigtails for LNF upgrade
Plug in Pigtails for LNF upgrade
Whats the deal with the kit LNF kit not coming with plug-in pigtails when the 2010 test car physically shows them in the pictures in the following link?
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lnf-performance-tech-153/2010-cobalt-ss-ride-gm-stage-1-kit-pictures-185859/
Someone needs to get some part #'s for the pieces from the 2010 so installing the upgrade will not require cutting into the factory harness.
Obviously my request among other was put into play with the 2010 Cobalt SS. Would be nice for them to revise the LNF kit to include these...Hint Hint!!
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lnf-performance-tech-153/2010-cobalt-ss-ride-gm-stage-1-kit-pictures-185859/
Someone needs to get some part #'s for the pieces from the 2010 so installing the upgrade will not require cutting into the factory harness.
Obviously my request among other was put into play with the 2010 Cobalt SS. Would be nice for them to revise the LNF kit to include these...Hint Hint!!
Whats the deal with the kit LNF kit not coming with plug-in pigtails when the 2010 test car physically shows them in the pictures in the following link?
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=185859
Someone needs to get some part #'s for the pieces from the 2010 so installing the upgrade will not require cutting into the factory harness.
Obviously my request among other was put into play with the 2010 Cobalt SS. Would be nice for them to revise the LNF kit to include these...Hint Hint!!

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=185859
Someone needs to get some part #'s for the pieces from the 2010 so installing the upgrade will not require cutting into the factory harness.
Obviously my request among other was put into play with the 2010 Cobalt SS. Would be nice for them to revise the LNF kit to include these...Hint Hint!!

They were going to do a connector to connector connection but decided the pigtail that already existed in GM parts catalog would be faster/cheaper than pulling a new part number & sourcing a new part.
If you got the part numbers for the connectors (they are probably delphi) you can try looking them and the terminals up at mouser or similar parts site. You can build a connector for quite cheap (~$5 compared to $80-90 from GM), but the crimping on the end terminals won't be OEM good since you need an expensive machine for that.
If you got the part numbers for the connectors (they are probably delphi) you can try looking them and the terminals up at mouser or similar parts site. You can build a connector for quite cheap (~$5 compared to $80-90 from GM), but the crimping on the end terminals won't be OEM good since you need an expensive machine for that.
They were going to do a connector to connector connection but decided the pigtail that already existed in GM parts catalog would be faster/cheaper than pulling a new part number & sourcing a new part.
If you got the part numbers for the connectors (they are probably delphi) you can try looking them and the terminals up at mouser or similar parts site. You can build a connector for quite cheap (~$5 compared to $80-90 from GM), but the crimping on the end terminals won't be OEM good since you need an expensive machine for that.
If you got the part numbers for the connectors (they are probably delphi) you can try looking them and the terminals up at mouser or similar parts site. You can build a connector for quite cheap (~$5 compared to $80-90 from GM), but the crimping on the end terminals won't be OEM good since you need an expensive machine for that.
With the stock harness you have a male connector on the stock harness and a female connector as a part of the SENSOR that connect male to female as stock. To make a jumper you need a MALE connector the same one as on the stock harness to connect it to the sensor. And on the other end you need a FEMALE connector exactly the same as the one ON the sensor to connect to the stock harness on the car. There is no connector available exactly like the one ON the sensor to use on the jumper to attach to the stock harness. Only the connector that attaches TO the sensor is available and goes on one end of the jumper. Think about it this way. The two connectors on the jumper would have to be exact MATES, have the ability to connect to each other. Unfortunately the one end (the one ON the sensor is the wrong side of the mating connectors. They do this for the same reason the auto makers use MANY connectors that are KEYEDo you CAN'T hook the up wrong. The may both have 4 pins but unless the circuits are exactly the same, ELECTRICALLY, they won't go together.
I have rewritten this twenty times to try to make it make sense to others. Hope it works. It's clear to me because I can see it in my minds eye.
Last edited by buellfooll; Sep 1, 2009 at 01:10 PM.
I would LOVE to have the adapter...but if you think about it. Once the stage 1 kit tune is flashed. It cant be used on any other car. So you pretty much have to stay stage 1 or get it tuned. And you'll want the sensors no matter what. It of course would of been nice if they were pnp though.
I would LOVE to have the adapter...but if you think about it. Once the stage 1 kit tune is flashed. It cant be used on any other car. So you pretty much have to stay stage 1 or get it tuned. And you'll want the sensors no matter what. It of course would of been nice if they were pnp though.
Hell you could do it in the parking lot of the dealership then have them flash it.
Try the Solstice, HHR and Sky forums. One of the guys that already has the upgrade installed might want to sell his old ones. Maybe! But if you do and cut them in the wrong spot you just burned whatever you paid. You'll till have to solder the wires on the connector and make it LOOK presentable..Cut and splice the wires and tape over it. OR! you can search around for shrink splices. Youi'll have a soldered splice that is hermetically sealed. And all you need is a heat gun. Mama's hair drier will do.
http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...0SOLDER%20AND/
This is just one size. Poke around and you'll find more.
This link is the actual page in the catalog which lists many alternatives.
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog222/#/22
http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...0SOLDER%20AND/
This is just one size. Poke around and you'll find more.
This link is the actual page in the catalog which lists many alternatives.
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog222/#/22
Last edited by buellfooll; Sep 1, 2009 at 04:49 PM.
How bad do you all want a source to get the proper connector, terminals and seals so you can cut crimp and make your install a professional looking factory install? If you all really want that I will provide a source. Your going to get the white wire pigtails in the kit anyway. I have a source for a terminal crimp and connector set if you really want it. Their about 20 bucks a piece.
I will also provide a how to.
Man my car runs strong this week as the humidity and temps in Mich have fallen. Two thumbs up to Bill and the PT folks at Milford, you guys did it right! I grin every morning on the way to work.
I will also provide a how to.
Man my car runs strong this week as the humidity and temps in Mich have fallen. Two thumbs up to Bill and the PT folks at Milford, you guys did it right! I grin every morning on the way to work.
Last edited by Gettinausernamesucks; Sep 2, 2009 at 09:01 AM.
Also, be aware that this created connector is not a 100,000 to 200,000 miles solution with weather, vibration and heat it may start breaking down in the 50,000 range.
I know there owners out there that are going to say we should of spent the money to have the connectors tooled. What they don't realize is the that the cost of tooling connectors would have doubled or tripled the $650 price just to payback the connector tooling cost and at that price no one would have bought the kit. So we put the kit out in the most cost effective way we know how to do to get it to the market at the lowest possible price.
Also another possible solution for the person that wants the option to go back in forth is to add/splice-in the kit connector to the production harness, so you end up with two MAP connectors and two TMAP connector in the harness. You would also need a spare ECM or the ability to flash back and forth to be able to change back and forth.
Last edited by More_Torque_More_HP; Sep 2, 2009 at 08:09 AM.
I think my solution would be to find something like a 4 wire maf extension cable or something of a 4 pin nature and use it to make a pigtail so we could also make the stock sensor plug back in just in case. Since we have a GM engineer here, lets beg him to devise a kit with plugs and pins or part numbers for good weather tight connectors and give him some "chedda" for is efforts.
They are installed with the "solderless" crimp connector that is required by all dealers to use on any wiring harness repair. You crimp them in place and then use an heat gun to melt the inside and heat shrink the outside at the same time. They are made to last the life if the car. A plain solder joint without the support of an outer shink wrap tube will crack, corrode and fail over time.
Please see the latest article on GM Tuner Source:
http://www.gmtunersource.com/index.p...ay-lnf-stage-1
I think my solution would be to find something like a 4 wire maf extension cable or something of a 4 pin nature and use it to make a pigtail so we could also make the stock sensor plug back in just in case. Since we have a GM engineer here, lets beg him to devise a kit with plugs and pins or part numbers for good weather tight connectors and give him some "chedda" for is efforts.
http://www.gmtunersource.com/index.p...ay-lnf-stage-1
Last edited by More_Torque_More_HP; Sep 3, 2009 at 09:48 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
patooyee
Wanted - What to buy - All categories
0
Oct 1, 2015 01:07 PM



