Well ive never tried it maybe thats the problem lol but once i do it im sure ill be pretty simple i do know you have to line up with the marks and all

 

Just for reference how many links should be between the 2 cams.

 

I posted in your wtb ldk thread and I am coming from experience on this. You have 2 options here.
1) Drop in a full LDK from ZZP hook up your stock turbo be good as new with 10 more hp, and there will be hidden costs even if doing the labor yourself. However I hope you don't have plans of over 360-380whp (450ish crank hp) because a stock LDK will bend a rod over that and ZZP will suggest you dont push it passed that in a tune anyway.
2) build a block and build it right, obviously more costly but you will be able to pass the 360-380whp mark if you plan to do that.

Things to consider cost wise:
While the engine is out you might as well put a new and stronger clutch in unless you have a pretty decent clutch and new one now. flywheel resurfacing
The engine has to drop out the bottom so the cradle comes out sooo while the engine is out you may want to do rotated trans mounts, control arm bushings (Do this anyway they will need it), sway bar end links, steering rack spacers if you plan to lower it soon.
Also while the engine is out consider exhaust if you haven't done it. This is prime time to hook up a new downpipe since you don't have to work under the car.
Consider intercooler and piping if not done yet since you will have the whole front end off its quite easy and pretty cheap to replace.
All of these are small prices individually but add up quick and are a breeze to do while the car is apart and you will thank yourself later. add about $1000 to the bill maybe more if you do it all and do the work yourself.

If your bottom end is alright and you go the head work route so you might as well put stronger springs, new valves, larger cam. which would require intercooler/piping and exhaust.

Other costs include any broken or stripped bolts, Oil for an oil change after breaking in the engine, Coolant, AC refill from a dealership, Transmission fluid if you pull driver side axle from the trans when pulling it off the cradle. Break/clutch fluid. clutch suction bleed tool and if the clutch isn't bled correctly your looking at a new throw out bearing cause they pop easily.

I went route 1 before a lot of the weak rod info came out and the LDKs were still listed at 500hp on zzps website. Don't get me wrong it was great to pick up the engine and drop it in and start it up, The engine is awesome and zzp sells great **** but I am stuck at 343whp with a S256et because the rods are weak and the injectors wouldn't play friendly. This is 100% my fault because I didnt take the advice and build a block. ZZP helped me out as much as they could and Matt got me the best tune I could ask for on the setup. If I could do it again I would have spent the money and time to build a block. however I was like you and needed my car back on the road as fast as possible. All in all it took me about 2 weeks of working on my car after work in the evening to replace everything and get it running.

Edit: Also consider shipping charges they add up quick.

 

Sounds like LDK is not worth it...I would do LAF block with Wiseco pistons, stronger rods, and LNF crank then I'll have 2.1 engine.

 

The complete LDK is worth it if you want to get back on the road as quick as possible with a full engine drop in comparable to stock no gimmicks or grey area.

If you want to build anything you are going to run into the same problems the LDK has in any other model of this engine. Rods, Pistons, more fuel, more air... The LNF, LSJ, LHU, LAF are all the same way, it comes down to which engine you want to start with to build your franken block out of.

Since I have an LDK that runs and works fine in my car I am currently pricing out a LHU used engine out of a regal or saab, stripping it down selling off the stuff I don't need then replacing the innards with built LNF parts. since the LHU and LDK have the same block a stripped LHU shortblock is a stripped LDK shortblock

 

That's true, I seen LHU engine listed in Ebay right now average price range $1,600-$2,200.

 

Yep which is very close to the same price as a zzp LDK shortblock, yank off everything you don't need, List it on whatever car forum the engine came out of and if you make anywhere more than $500 back on sold parts you already spent less on the LHU than a shortblock. Plus you get to keep parts you need, like oil pan, timing cover and electronics/wiring, nuts/bolts all which you would have to buy if you were building a short block from scratch.

 

Hey Folks! I found that I have 8 teeth timing chain jump! WTF!?

 

Damn

 

Has no one done any swaps on the cobalt? Wonder if you could probably put a honda engine in this thing. Still nobody has dropped lS1 or 2 and made a RWD?

 

A bit off topic, but both of those are way more trouble than they're worth. Don't see a single reason to swap in the Honda. There would be so many mismatched parts it would take a ridiculous amount of fab work and for what gain? Someone has done the LS swap to RWD. Forgot his name, but he's on here.

Holy smokes! You may have done some valve and piston damage. Might want to get that scoped to see if you really do need that LDK...

 

Yup i agree with emecham there might be some damage

And gobalt is the name of the car was made rwd

 

Hd on folks! It jumped 2 teeth, I rotate engine again. I was muthafuckin freaking out that it jumped 8 teeth at 1st...

 

OK, 2 teeth might not be so bad. It depends on how close the valve opening event is to TDC of the piston travel. It's still possible that there's damage. Maybe a builder or someone more familiar with the overlaps can chime in.

If you keep breaking rockers then that's a pretty bad sign in itself.

 

I pulled out timing chain tensioner and I was surprised how weak the springs inside of the tensioner.

 

Yeah, I'm gonna have to check my pistions to see if valves did hit the pistons. I hope some builders can chime in here.