Term2 vs?
ah was going to say,
i mean if you had a good experience with term great, if not owell, he tried to blame the knock on a computer virus so obviously something was going on there, i paid for it in the end he still has my money nothing i can do but share my experience.
i mean if you had a good experience with term great, if not owell, he tried to blame the knock on a computer virus so obviously something was going on there, i paid for it in the end he still has my money nothing i can do but share my experience.
Or he doesnt want to argue with someone who doesnt know about tuning and only posts up screen shots. Refer to Area's posts for the most likely reasons he hasn't commented in this thread
anyways im done posting in this thread, take from it what you will.
For one to fully understand the dynamics of an engine and how it reacts to certain things in a trial and error situation, is to learn that zero KR is not always a good thing and can result in poor mpg, or masking of other issues. It's a damned if you do, damned if you don't situation with the LNF no matter which way you slice it.


Term2 vs?
There is no way a tuner would add 6-8 degrees so quickly, it's been know for awhile these engines like 12-16* on pump and 24-26* on e85, that KR is not actual knock related, KR is the ECU's first response to when something isn't correct. As I said earlier just posting the max KR doesn't actually tell us anything.
I sure as **** don't just look at the KR max, I tune myself and have some understanding of the LNF KR, it's not cut and dry to post a screen shot of max KR, as Area pointed out but you're not listening to him because it doesn't fit your bias. You blew the damn turbo you don't think that might of had something to do with the tuning issues? Did the ECU actually pull the amount of timing? What was the air load when the knock happened, what was the actual ignition advance, there is so much more going on that just looking at KR max, but you seem to not understand it.
There is no way a tuner would add 6-8 degrees so quickly, it's been know for awhile these engines like 12-16* on pump and 24-26* on e85, that KR is not actual knock related, KR is the ECU's first response to when something isn't correct. As I said earlier just posting the max KR doesn't actually tell us anything.
There is no way a tuner would add 6-8 degrees so quickly, it's been know for awhile these engines like 12-16* on pump and 24-26* on e85, that KR is not actual knock related, KR is the ECU's first response to when something isn't correct. As I said earlier just posting the max KR doesn't actually tell us anything.
You can't blame a tuner for starting with a base timing map that works no problem for every other LNF, also are you sure it was his timing that was giving it knock like a **** and not the stock file? Ever looked at a stock LNF it registers KR all over the place on pump. And I actually know he doesnt add a lot of timing if any in the mid range to get things started just the high load areas
the LNF loves a little KR here and there. Outside conditions are everything on my car. Humidity and temp will cause false knock now and again. Some runs you won't see a single degree. I really need to try and clock my knock sensors correctly.
Wot is one thing, part throttle is another. Zero knock at wot if preferred, but it could be a result of too low of timing. i know it's fucked up and sounds wrong. It is trial and error.
Without seeing what is commanded versus actual against the knock retard, it's hard to say what is going on as I personally can't see the bigger picture. So no, i can not say, just off that one image if it's ok, or good as all fo the information is not there.
Also, the problem that most people do not even remotely realize is, the car needs to relearn the knock count, and sensitivity. The sensors are on over drive after the first flash. They relearn themselves and clam down after 3 key cycles.
Wot is one thing, part throttle is another. Zero knock at wot if preferred, but it could be a result of too low of timing. i know it's fucked up and sounds wrong. It is trial and error.
Without seeing what is commanded versus actual against the knock retard, it's hard to say what is going on as I personally can't see the bigger picture. So no, i can not say, just off that one image if it's ok, or good as all fo the information is not there.
Also, the problem that most people do not even remotely realize is, the car needs to relearn the knock count, and sensitivity. The sensors are on over drive after the first flash. They relearn themselves and clam down after 3 key cycles.
Without seeing what is commanded versus actual against the knock retard, it's hard to say what is going on as I personally can't see the bigger picture. So no, i can not say, just off that one image if it's ok, or good as all fo the information is not there.
Also, the problem that most people do not even remotely realize is, the car needs to relearn the knock count, and sensitivity. The sensors are on over drive after the first flash. They relearn themselves and clam down after 3 key cycles.
I feel like you see a little bit before the car is fully warm and the STFT/LTFT has settled a bit.
I never get too worried when my fuel trims are close and I'm hitting my commanded lamda at WOT and 0 knock.
I wish I still had a base cobalt to tune with to learn a non turbo car.
well I'm sorry you have **** gas in canada, but 10* is what the stock file has so expecting 2-4* more is not that crazy. Also how do you know it's real knock? Just wondering what you use to qualify it as actual knock, not the ECU KR.
You can't blame a tuner for starting with a base timing map that works no problem for every other LNF, also are you sure it was his timing that was giving it knock like a **** and not the stock file? Ever looked at a stock LNF it registers KR all over the place on pump. And I actually know he doesnt add a lot of timing if any in the mid range to get things started just the high load areas
You can't blame a tuner for starting with a base timing map that works no problem for every other LNF, also are you sure it was his timing that was giving it knock like a **** and not the stock file? Ever looked at a stock LNF it registers KR all over the place on pump. And I actually know he doesnt add a lot of timing if any in the mid range to get things started just the high load areas
Being completely unbiased here, I'm going to bank on there being more to this story than what meets the eye here.
A relatively "new" tuner to the scene on here can't stand out unless there's some way to show that he's better than the rest of us at what we do. What better way to do it than throw one of us under the bus? Right? Bash me if you will, but that's my take on it.
A relatively "new" tuner to the scene on here can't stand out unless there's some way to show that he's better than the rest of us at what we do. What better way to do it than throw one of us under the bus? Right? Bash me if you will, but that's my take on it.
Being completely unbiased here, I'm going to bank on there being more to this story than what meets the eye here.
A relatively "new" tuner to the scene on here can't stand out unless there's some way to show that he's better than the rest of us at what we do. What better way to do it than throw one of us under the bus? Right? Bash me if you will, but that's my take on it.
A relatively "new" tuner to the scene on here can't stand out unless there's some way to show that he's better than the rest of us at what we do. What better way to do it than throw one of us under the bus? Right? Bash me if you will, but that's my take on it.
True, but what else could the intention of even posting something like that be though? Granted that Chris kid didn't make the original post but then another tuner who's been making a name for himself as of recently comes in a sort of piles on. I just sort of think it's in poor taste. Again, just my take on things.
3 cycles? That's pretty good info and have noticed the same in my limited experience. It's frustrating as hell when first learning because your changes feel right then you see red on the screen and it's dumb founding.
I feel like you see a little bit before the car is fully warm and the STFT/LTFT has settled a bit.
I never get too worried when my fuel trims are close and I'm hitting my commanded lamda at WOT and 0 knock.
I wish I still had a base cobalt to tune with to learn a non turbo car.
I feel like you see a little bit before the car is fully warm and the STFT/LTFT has settled a bit.
I never get too worried when my fuel trims are close and I'm hitting my commanded lamda at WOT and 0 knock.
I wish I still had a base cobalt to tune with to learn a non turbo car.
True, but what else could the intention of even posting something like that be though? Granted that Chris kid didn't make the original post but then another tuner who's been making a name for himself as of recently comes in a sort of piles on. I just sort of think it's in poor taste. Again, just my take on things.
No one seems to want to rise up on their own and forge their own path anymore.
1- I am far from a 'kid'. I have been tuning est 2002, with 13 years of experience hardly constitutes as 'new'.
2- I don't tune americans, nor do I require any more 'business', so get over yourselves. I have other tuners I recommend stateside, as well as in other parts of Canada. I definitely prefer to be in the car, or have it on a dyno, to dial a tune in therefore I personally don't like remote tuning, but I do have remotes throughout Canada to assist the GM community in our country if need be. Just like kzak is trying to convey his experience with a certain tuner, I have expressed mine. I am not trying to scrounge business. Simply put, I don't want or need any of your business, so in the politest way possible - get fucked.
Any further questions? Or can this thread be put to rest?
2- I don't tune americans, nor do I require any more 'business', so get over yourselves. I have other tuners I recommend stateside, as well as in other parts of Canada. I definitely prefer to be in the car, or have it on a dyno, to dial a tune in therefore I personally don't like remote tuning, but I do have remotes throughout Canada to assist the GM community in our country if need be. Just like kzak is trying to convey his experience with a certain tuner, I have expressed mine. I am not trying to scrounge business. Simply put, I don't want or need any of your business, so in the politest way possible - get fucked.
Any further questions? Or can this thread be put to rest?
1- I am far from a 'kid'. I have been tuning est 2002, with 13 years of experience hardly constitutes as 'new'.
2- I don't tune americans, nor do I require any more 'business', so get over yourselves. I have other tuners I recommend stateside, as well as in other parts of Canada. I definitely prefer to be in the car, or have it on a dyno, to dial a tune in therefore I personally don't like remote tuning, but I do have remotes throughout Canada to assist the GM community in our country if need be. Just like kzak is trying to convey his experience with a certain tuner, I have expressed mine. I am not trying to scrounge business. Simply put, I don't want or need any of your business, so in the politest way possible - get fucked.
Any further questions? Or can this thread be put to rest?
2- I don't tune americans, nor do I require any more 'business', so get over yourselves. I have other tuners I recommend stateside, as well as in other parts of Canada. I definitely prefer to be in the car, or have it on a dyno, to dial a tune in therefore I personally don't like remote tuning, but I do have remotes throughout Canada to assist the GM community in our country if need be. Just like kzak is trying to convey his experience with a certain tuner, I have expressed mine. I am not trying to scrounge business. Simply put, I don't want or need any of your business, so in the politest way possible - get fucked.
Any further questions? Or can this thread be put to rest?
On a serious note, calm down.
And I am very calm, had a great time this evening road tuning another built 2.1 lnf 6758 (underkill turbo for the build, recommended they upgrade to 7163 if they are sticking to bolt on turba)I just dont appreciate it when I get called 'kid' by someone who was still in coloring books when I rebuilt my first turbo on my boosted j-body.



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