Would anyone be interested in a dual timing chain or tempered hardened timing chain setup?

I've changed in the last 9 months - over 22 timing chains for different customers.. ATS / GS / Veranos / CXL / Cobalts / HHR / RL / SKY / etc..

post up your ideas or options..



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Got an email this earlier today and asked to post up what i've found -

So what causes the timing chain to jump - you ask?

what causes it - the load on the chain is constantly under tension from the tensioner, over a period of time the chain will 'stretch' a 'half link' or 'one full link' [compared with a new and with old chains with 30-70k miles on them].

Once it's stretched the metal will continue to fatigue and keep stretching - one of two possible problems occurs at this point:

First - the chain will 'dig' into the main chain guide or into all three of them, once there is a 'chain groove or impression' on the chain guides, the chain gets loose and eventually jump the cam/crankshaft gear or snap altogether - which is rare - i've personally seen this happen twice - because the tensile strength on the chain is over 2000= lbft

Second - the cam gear tooth on the VCG will 'round out', to the point it where it will not 'lock' the chain into place , which causes the chain to either jump or fall off altogether. which also causes the chain to stretch as well.


Up now - I've found that - on most 2.0/ 2.2/ 2.4 & 2.5 ECOtec engines no matter what, the timing chain needs to get replaced after 50k miles.
Also once the valve head is removed on GEN 1/ GEN2 and even GEN3 blocks- the timing chain has to get replaced - period.


Heres a guide if and when the timing chain needs to get replaced if one of the following is getting replaced /upgraded:
- cams
- valves
- valve springs
- crankshaft
- head gasket
- balance shafts
- water pump
- oil pump

 

a hardened one would be nice. or a thicker one (if possible) for us running more power than the car is necessarily meant to

 

do 2.4s need this done also or have it as a common problem? if so...maybe...lol

 

I would buy a hardened one and when mine needs to be replaced next year just for the routine maintenance I'd have my mechanic put that on instead of a factory replacement.

 

would a dual fit under the timing cover? (never had mine open) would it need a different slack tensioner? would oiling/lube be a consideration?

 

Interesting

 

dual would be good but excess drag on accessory side.

i think a hardened one would be better. make sure it has colored links....

 

Id buy a hardened one with colored links.
Find some one relatviely local to me that has experience to help me toss it on.
Ive never done a timing chain, always just swapped motors in my old car.

 

Purplee

 

I dont care what color they are lol, they are just for timing purposes.

 

I'm at 51k with no issues at all. I wouldnt say the chain needs to be replaced after 50k "no matter what".

There are more factors to take into consideration than just mileage.

Inspected my timing chain when I did my cams and springs (didnt purchase redic stiff springs either). Everything was mint. Added the upgraded tensioner is all.

For all out builds, I can see this being of help though. Preventative maintenance.

 

Subd

 

Intetested in the hardened one it seems that would be the easier thing to do.

 

My s256et car ate through 5 chains in the last two years alone and everytime everything was fixed by a gm mechanic. It went through all the tensioners, the guides, and a couple of times the bolts even broke off and were rattling inside the engine. It is bad.

We need this for our cars. If I have gone through alot of chains I am not the only one. I know at least one other high hp cobalt in my area with a 6262 who has gone through at least the same amount of chains as I have gone through here.

Anyone with 82lb valvesprings and big turbo is gonna go through chains. It gets ******* annoying having to fix it all the time.

I want to rev to 8k with the new turbo so this is a must!!!!!

Thanks Rudy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

My chain was stretched for sure at 118k...compared it to a new chain and there was a definite difference.

 

I'm not even on a big turbo yet just 82's and I'm about to change out my third set.

 

I will buy one or two if you make them. Keep us posted.

 

i would be pay for a good solution in a heart beat

 

This is true. That's why I went with Supertechs 75# dual spring kit.

Boggles my mind when I see members installing redic high valve springs.

 

What are the stock LSJ springs?

 

Not sure. A lot lower than 75#'s that's for sure.

I think 58# rings a bell. Stock ecotec springs are the same for all models fyi.

 

78#-82# should be more than enough for most builds on this site.

I've seen some peeps with the supertech 94# springs. Nuts.

Thanks for comfirming the stock spring rates. I knew 58#'s sounded familiar.

 

i run 82#

 

Me too

 

I'm on ZZP 82# springs. No problems yet. I replaced the timing chain on this build just out of preventative maintenance.