Turbo Build upgrade!
#27
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Location: Tonawanda, New York
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if i were u i would go with forged pistons (diamond, Weisco, JE Piston) etc. and from reading the GM build book iam pretty sure the Stock LNF Rods are "weaker" than LSJ.
ARP or Golden Eagle Head studs
Cometic Headgasket
Stock sleeves will b fine for 400 hp, if u want to go higher go with Darton Sleeves
Pauter Rods (badass) rated 1000hp l
axels atleast stage 2 (Drive Shaft Shop)
I would recommend OTTP reverse motor mounts
if ur going to to head work, Supertech 78lbs springs, ferrera valves
(if porting head, i would port exhuast side for higher end power and if intake side might lose low end power)
u can rev it to 8k ( make sure u take out balance shafts and either put in neutral balance shafts or Level zero balance shaft delete kit)
just plan alittle for the future, doing internal work "overkill" so if wanting to up thee power u can, with out having to take apart the motor and due the work twice, and when ya take it apart bolts and gaskets have to be replaced
get a good boostcontroller i prefer turbosmart, like a dual stage. so u can set a lower "daily driving" boost so ur not ripping on the car all the time.
an then set a higher boost for racing
ARP or Golden Eagle Head studs
Cometic Headgasket
Stock sleeves will b fine for 400 hp, if u want to go higher go with Darton Sleeves
Pauter Rods (badass) rated 1000hp l
axels atleast stage 2 (Drive Shaft Shop)
I would recommend OTTP reverse motor mounts
if ur going to to head work, Supertech 78lbs springs, ferrera valves
(if porting head, i would port exhuast side for higher end power and if intake side might lose low end power)
u can rev it to 8k ( make sure u take out balance shafts and either put in neutral balance shafts or Level zero balance shaft delete kit)
just plan alittle for the future, doing internal work "overkill" so if wanting to up thee power u can, with out having to take apart the motor and due the work twice, and when ya take it apart bolts and gaskets have to be replaced
get a good boostcontroller i prefer turbosmart, like a dual stage. so u can set a lower "daily driving" boost so ur not ripping on the car all the time.
an then set a higher boost for racing
#29
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as for turbo was size are u running? i have a Precision BB turbo 5557 (55trim)
an equal length manifold i would also recommend, i have "log style" manifold which is fine for my power goals
u can get just about everything u need from OTTP and Turbo Tech Racing, which are both great vendors and great prices and very helpful. i got everything from them
an equal length manifold i would also recommend, i have "log style" manifold which is fine for my power goals
u can get just about everything u need from OTTP and Turbo Tech Racing, which are both great vendors and great prices and very helpful. i got everything from them
#30
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wiseco pistons are, ottp just started carrying the pauter rods and they should be the same as the lsj ones. contact fast98 for clarification on that. don't reccomend spinning the lnf that fast as the DI will be to slow to fuel it in the higher rpms. other than that if you keep your build in the 400-425hp range the motor should hold for quite a while provided you keep the boost around 22-25 and its tuned properly.
#31
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as far as im sure the springs in the head are the same (dont quote me on that) the compression is 9:2 in he lnf and mine(LSJ) is 9:5, but some vendor(forgot who) will make whatever compression piston u would like.
i stayed stock compression, low compression can handle more boost safer
well from iv seen our blocks dont like psi above 25
i stayed stock compression, low compression can handle more boost safer
well from iv seen our blocks dont like psi above 25
Last edited by SloBaLt RiDeR; 01-04-2010 at 05:21 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#32
treadstone is a pretty good company imo, i just wish they could build us ecotecs a decent intake manifold sheet metal style for less than the going $550-1200, more like honda prices lol
have you seen some of there cast manifolds?
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...+347+Stainless
very nice pieces and you don't have to worry about cracking.
have you seen some of there cast manifolds?
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...+347+Stainless
very nice pieces and you don't have to worry about cracking.
#33
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iTrader: (2)
as far as im sure the springs in the head are the same (dont quote me on that) the compression is 9:2 in he lnf and mine(LSJ) is 9:5, but some vendor(forgot who) will make whatever compression piston u would like.
i stayed stock compression, low compression can handle more boost safer
well from iv seen our blocks dont like psi above 25
i stayed stock compression, low compression can handle more boost safer
well from iv seen our blocks dont like psi above 25
yah these ones are sweet though stainless for good heat retention and won't crack plus good flow, I WANT!
Last edited by jimbos'ss; 01-04-2010 at 05:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#35
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would this be good for my project???
Carrillo H-Beam Connecting Rods- $1000
Head gasket- $89.99
Wiseco Forged Pistons- $721.56
Supertech Ecotec Stainless Valves- $400.00
Supertech 78Lb Valve Spring Kit- $359.99
OTTP Rolated Trans Mounts- $205
SPEC Stage 4 Clutch- $572
Total = $3348.54
Carrillo H-Beam Connecting Rods- $1000
Head gasket- $89.99
Wiseco Forged Pistons- $721.56
Supertech Ecotec Stainless Valves- $400.00
Supertech 78Lb Valve Spring Kit- $359.99
OTTP Rolated Trans Mounts- $205
SPEC Stage 4 Clutch- $572
Total = $3348.54
#38
Senior Member
zzp made I think a 2nd fuel rail of sorts to get more fuel in as the stock pump wasnt doing what they wanted. Also they used nitrous if Im not mistaken. They wont release any more info about it until further testing etc.. they said some time Q1 2010 I think.
You will seriously be disappointed, theres a glass 400whp wall with the way current tuning and parts are. Its the same in the MS3 world..well they recently had a break though and have 450-500+whp now...
You will seriously be disappointed, theres a glass 400whp wall with the way current tuning and parts are. Its the same in the MS3 world..well they recently had a break though and have 450-500+whp now...
#40
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Good luck with your quest for 500whp. I am pulling for you.
#43
good information? how about this. i dynoed 293whp/323wtq and have no traction in 1st or 2nd gear and when i retune for all the mods i am doing right now I will probably lose part of 3rd gear. Granted these tires arent the best but do you honestly plan on getting traction on 500whp in a FWD car? It's just overkill man. Not trying to hate but i think you need to invest in a RWD or AWD car if you wanna go this extreme. You're going to spend a lot of money and go nowhere fast.
#46
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The BOV is the III gen....
my car has right now 323whp and 404wtq and i have traction on 2nd gear.....they are called GOOD TIRES.....
when i run this set up i will be on slicks and when im DD the car i would be on low boost....
my car has right now 323whp and 404wtq and i have traction on 2nd gear.....they are called GOOD TIRES.....
when i run this set up i will be on slicks and when im DD the car i would be on low boost....
#47
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No offense man, but I find this REALLY hard to believe....unless if by traction you mean, if you get on it really really easy in 2nd gear you dont spin....if you have 404tq to the wheels and get on it hard in 2nd I dont care what tires youre running, theyre going to be pulverized onto the pavement
#48
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Ok found zzp's thread, sorry they used insanely high octance gas not nitrous.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lnf-performance-tech-153/zzp-lnf-turbo-upgrade-first-dyno-session-192648/
#50
good information? how about this. i dynoed 293whp/323wtq and have no traction in 1st or 2nd gear and when i retune for all the mods i am doing right now I will probably lose part of 3rd gear. Granted these tires arent the best but do you honestly plan on getting traction on 500whp in a FWD car? It's just overkill man. Not trying to hate but i think you need to invest in a RWD or AWD car if you wanna go this extreme. You're going to spend a lot of money and go nowhere fast.