Stryker it is unlikely your problem is surge.
Surge occurs at high engine load, low rpm. in other works, high boost pressure, low RPM. if your problem is at 5-6k rpm, you are away from the surge line on the compressor map.
Look at a compressor map, surge line is the thicker line on the left side of the compressor efficiency islands.

 

strykerCC if you want help with your issue send me a PM or open up a new thread.
Include details like, mods, tune, fuel used, mileage, and a data log if you have any.

 

Hey everyone, long time no type...

So, yeah, 6 months later, I finally got my timing chain changed. Seems like the car is running at least as strong as it used to. Need to burn up the old gas... but anyway...

So I am getting the WAHWAHWAHWAHWAH almost every time I shift now. It hasn't "barked" once that I have noticed. Just WAHWAHWAHWAH.

So, after having sat for so long, it's the spring I need to change, right?

And, this won't damage my engine/turbo? Should I not get on it until I get this fixed?

Thanks in advance for your response!

 

is this stock turbo? yes a lighter spring on forge will help. it will not damage turbo when ur bpv does this. if u really want it gone, get a vacuum tank, I think that's what it was put in for, it stores vacuum and opens it quickly. if its making that noise all the time no matter what boost, ur bpv solenoid may be shot. if its just a high pitched wahwahwah that's really fast if u have the zfr, learn to like it, it wont go away lol

 

Try to stay out of high boost on the old gas. Was it still able to build at least 10psi on the gauge? Just making sure your connections and orings on the map sensors are still ok.

 

Well... Yesterday it seemed to be running really well. I wasn't too hard on it, but... let's just say that I boosted pretty hard on the highway many times on the way home with no problems, but no hard takeoffs or anything like that, and didn't rev it up really high.

But... This morning on the way in to work, a good 15 miles from home so it was plenty warmed up, there's a hill I usually floor it in 4th all the way down... and it did ok... but when I let off to slow back down at the top of the other side, the problems began.

It sounds like it is running on 3 cyl.

Codes:

C0292 - Combination Sensor Circuit Bias
P2097 - Catalyst Fuel System Bank 1 Rich
P0300 - Misfire (of course)
P0017 - Crank Position Sensor (maybe this is why I can't see the phase angle)
P2261 - Turbo Charger Bypass Valve

Now, I did notice a vacuum hose had come loose at a T connector on top of the motor and put it back together, and the turbo quit making the WAHWAHWAH and sounds more like it did before I had the work done to it. I looked around, poked around, made sure whatever I could see was connected, nothing lose, no broken wires, etc, that I could see. But, the hose only fixed the turbo sound, it still is running pretty crappy. Seems worse at lower RPM, and turbo will boost to about 10psi but I was taking it easy since it isn't running right.

Going to have the mechanic look at it tomorrow.

Just glad I didn't take off in it for the 1000mi trip I had planned, or to Michigan to have it dyno tuned, which I would have done today if I hadn't had to work instead.

As always, thanks for the input, it is appreciated very, very much...!

PS Oh, and I was getting full boost, it seemed, before this latest issue started.

 

who tuned you?

 

also I see ur "only" running 12 degrees timing. on what octane gas is this? I am using 91 and I could barly get 10 degrees without knock.

 

Hopefully 93, 12 degrees on 91 isn't real good for longevity.

 

You might hear a tiny amount of turbo flutter when doing the vaccum tank delete and putting the vaccum line directly to the intake manifold but it's fine.

 

How can you tell what degrees timing I am running? I assumed it was all done to factory stock spec, I am going to talk to the mechanic again today about it.

I think the car was tuned when I bought it but the dealership reset it to stock, so it has the CAI on it, but otherwise is stock except for charge pipes.

I run 91 or 93, depending on where I get the gas.

Do I need to talk to the mechanic about the timing ? It ran fine for a day then suddenly started acting up, I thought it might be a plug, injector, or something like that.

As far as I know the tank delete has not been done, everything should be stock now except for the CAI and CP...

 

u need something to log it or a gauge to see if its knocking. if ur getting knock at wot, more than likely ur timing is higher than ur gas can support.

I couldn't run anything more than 10 degrees on 91. so I said screw it and now I spray a buttload of meth and am at 18 degrees up top of timing with 0 knock. I monitor knock constantly though. 91 is only thing I can really get, unless itake a half hour run for some 94

 

what exactly is acting up again?

 

The problem was I had a spark plug broke in two. New plugs, runs great. So it looks like my whole issue was resolved with changing the timing chain and replacing the plugs. The misfires are gone, the hesitation sometimes, etc.

I just noticed this thread didn't have the whole story. My exhaust sound suddenly got lower, and the car overheated. Also, at that time, it was hesitating periodically, and misfiring. I thought the water pump went out and the timing got knocked off. Apparently the water pump is ok. Been driving it for a couple days with no problems.

Also, there's a hose coupler that keeps popping off, which causes the wahwah turbo. If I get on it pretty hard for a bit it will pop loose. So, I need to fix that. Also I am not getting CAM or CRANKSHAFT sensor data, so I need to troubleshoot that before I get tuned and get rid of this CAI and I guess get a shorty K&N.

Thanks everyone for your help. All input is appreciated and valuable!