If hooked up to the manifold you need a 20-21hg spring to keep it closed at idle on a LNF or so ive heard.

 

you need a 22 spring, in fact my 22 still let it open a tad so i expanded the springa little lol.. it works fine and doesnt open up!! Not weak or anything so im happy!!!!

 

Do you have the orange spring in yours right now? I'm going to give this a try before I scrap the BOV.

 

Can you post some pictures of how you have your vac lines set up? I notice you ran them like mine in your post on the previous page. Did you relocate your maf sensor?

 

I had them run the same way you did Ryan, but the BOV wasn't working at all that way. I'm going to work for the day now. I won't be off till 8 tonight.

 

Ok, well if you ran them like mine, I can assure you that it should work. Is your MAF relocated? If it is then it is most likely a tuning issue with the WG duty cycle or MAF being in the pressurized pipe now. If the MAF is still in the intake (stock location), when you shift your car will read a richened state and also a loss of metered air. This will throw P0100 (I think, could be P0101 also I cant remember) which is a MAF code and throw your car into a limp mode. Even if the code is turned off it still effects your car. Before I relocated the maf on mine, it would run like a raped ape for like 15 minutes then it would suck nuts. I PM'd you my number, call me when you get home from work, I'll help you the best I can.

 

Do you experience any shudder at all? If I go through the trouble of ordering the MAF relocation pipe and installing it, I want everything to run perfectly....

 

Call Jason and have him switch it out for you with the original he sent you. I told him about the problem before you bought yours. He should send you a new one. You might have to pay for shipping back to them but other than that they should get you another one out. I can guarantee you with nearly a 100% certainty that the MAF is freaking out.

 

I just sent him an e-mail about the problem, I'll wait and see what he says.

How does your BOV work? Any shudder at all when shifting at low RPM??

Oh, and I did throw the P0100 code, so I know the MAF is one of the issues with drivability. My main concern now is how well the BOV works....

 

This is why a bov is pointless on stock turbo.

 

Yea at low boost like 5psi or less it flutters a little. The stock BPV probably is guilty of this too but you just can't hear it. I have never heard a bov that doesn't flutter a little at low psi hold more than 12psi +/- a few... and visa versa, I don't know of any meant to hole 24-26lbs out of the box that don't flutter a little at low boost and engine speeds. Its a trade off. Also look into Hp tuners, Vince is not a fan of the BOV. Term set up my car amazingly, there are a good amount of HP tuners on here that can set you up very well.

BooSSted and I are both going to be turbo swapping in the near future, not so near for me now, but it will happen. I'm not sure why you are trolling on this particular thread but at least stick it out til the solution is found so you can make an educated decision before you jump to your conclusion.

 

I had a vent to atmosphere bov that I "T" in along with the stock bpv. So that makes me qualified to give an opinion on atmospheric bov's. Ran like **** and stuttered when getting on it when shifting gears fast. If you plan on going bigger turbo then gather all the parts and once you have everything put it all on at once. I had a mutilated bpv diaphragm so I wanted to try to use a bov to prevent that problem, now I have the forge bpv and everything runs great.

 

Talked to Jason, He's setting me up with the MAF Relocate pipe.

I will update in a couple days when it arrives.

Thanks again guys!

 

So, just to clarify... you had a shredded stock bpv diaphragm to begin with and you installed a BOV ($$$) to take care of the problem. Then you left the stock BPV and shredded diaphragm there (I can't speculate as to why). It doesn't sound like you tuned for it or relocated the MAF or anything to alleviate the richened state that your car will experience while shifting/closing the throttle, or the MAF/MAP/ECU registering metered air loss due to the BOV venting to open atmosphere... So you initially "fixed" the problem with a worse solution (BOV), then found the correct solution which is much better than stock (forged BPV) and somehow that is the BOV's fault... Your logic escapes me sir. I never said you weren't qualified, however now that you admitted to doing something wrong I can say that your advice is questionable. I simply stated that there are reasons I am running a BOV and why BooSSted is wanting one. I am trying to help him on the EXACT same setup I am running. And after your story, I can say that you didn't have all the parts you needed, one way or the other, so you should follow your own advice. I hope the forge BPV works well for you. From all the accounts I have read about their products, if it is installed correctly, it will last longer than your turbo.

Keep my number if you have any problems let me know.