2.0L LNF Performance Tech 260hp and 260 lb-ft of torque Turbocharged tuner version.

Very Low Compression on LNF

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Old 01-26-2019, 09:40 PM
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Very Low Compression on LNF

Okay so I bought an LNF about 3 months ago with 205,000km. It burns oil pretty badly. This became VERY obvious when I put in a catless downpipe. Theres also some oil build up in the intake and intercooler piping. Since buying it I’ve put in a cold air intake, intercooler piping, resonator and muffler delete, and catless downpipe. I want to get a ZZP tune for the car but I wanted to figure out why I was burning oil first. So, I did a compression test...

Numbers were:
120-150-120-120

The car has had a turbo rebuild recently too. No oil around any of the sparkplugs either. I burn about 1L of oil every 3000km. I’ve been driving a lot for work usually babying the car. On my off days I drive her pretty hard, NLS and all that fun stuff.

Long story short I don’t think it will survive a ZZP tune. Has anyone else had bad compression with their LNF? Any ideas why its burning so much oil? Will a tune kill my car?

RIP cobalt or?
Old 01-26-2019, 09:57 PM
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Scrap yard. I'm not kidding.
Low compression + burning a LOT of oil (for these cars). If you want to keep it the car, you could do a LDK rebuild, or turn it into pop cans.

That engine is done.
Old 01-26-2019, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ProfDNS
Scrap yard. I'm not kidding.
Low compression + burning a LOT of oil (for these cars). If you want to keep it the car, you could do a LDK rebuild, or turn it into pop cans.

That engine is done.
Dang, that bad eh? How long do you think it’ll last the way it is?
Old 01-26-2019, 11:52 PM
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I recommend taking it easy if you want the car to stay intact for now. How many miles are on it?
Old 01-27-2019, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ex177
Okay so I bought an LNF about 3 months ago with 205,000km. It burns oil pretty badly. This became VERY obvious when I put in a catless downpipe. Theres also some oil build up in the intake and intercooler piping. Since buying it I’ve put in a cold air intake, intercooler piping, resonator and muffler delete, and catless downpipe. I want to get a ZZP tune for the car but I wanted to figure out why I was burning oil first. So, I did a compression test...

Numbers were:
120-150-120-120

The car has had a turbo rebuild recently too. No oil around any of the sparkplugs either. I burn about 1L of oil every 3000km. I’ve been driving a lot for work usually babying the car. On my off days I drive her pretty hard, NLS and all that fun stuff.

Long story short I don’t think it will survive a ZZP tune. Has anyone else had bad compression with their LNF? Any ideas why its burning so much oil? Will a tune kill my car?

RIP cobalt or?
also check the turbo to make sure that its not blown. mine is on its way out and burns some oil underboost. check for any shaftplay. may even find the oil at the turbo if its bad enough.
Old 01-27-2019, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 06cobaltss/ss
also check the turbo to make sure that its not blown. mine is on its way out and burns some oil underboost. check for any shaftplay. may even find the oil at the turbo if its bad enough.
there is oil in the intake side of it. Its a fresh rebuild so it shouldn’t be blown... :/
Old 01-27-2019, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Slowbalt2000
I recommend taking it easy if you want the car to stay intact for now. How many miles are on it?
mile conversion is like 125k miles?
Old 01-27-2019, 10:57 AM
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I'd do another compression test and double check the gauge you're using (best get a second opinion) before calling it a goner. 150ish is typical for lnf so you're not horrendous. Excessive oil in the intake is a sign of blowby but the PCV system in these cars sucks oil when they're mint so it can be hard to tell.

Last edited by exninja; 01-27-2019 at 11:33 AM.
Old 01-27-2019, 11:07 AM
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Sounds like your rings are carboned up. They make g.m. top engine cleaner that your can run through the intake and put maybe a small cap full down into the spark plug holes and let it soak overnight and then crank it without the plugs it so you don't hydra lock it. The oil on the intake side of the turbo sounds like the pcv valve is clogged and might be stuck open and sucking up oil, I would pop a new pcv in as well. I work for acura and some of our cars have oil consumption issues that we usually resolve by adding half a quart of atf to engine oil when we change the oil, that surprisingly works and the car will slow down on oil drinking cause the rings will free up but I don't recommend doing that in a turbo car. Your right at the limit of cylinder variation with your compression readings, I think it's no more than 15 percent variation from the highest and lowest cyl reading. They consider that within spec. Your not going to have high compression readings on a turbo car so I would do the g.m. cleaner, dump some in the cylinders and let it sit overnight. Then go drive it to burn out the residual and change the oil and PVC. I have 116k on my 08 ss tc that's been boosting 23 psi for almost 100k and it's not consuming oil. Mainly probably because once a year I do a fuel induction service and I change the oil every 3k on the dot
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Old 01-27-2019, 11:30 AM
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Turbo burning oil or bad pcv are both good suggestions.
Old 01-27-2019, 12:25 PM
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I'd take a borescope down into the heads themselves as well. If it is oil sludge, I would advise like above - top down cleaner, and change the oil again shortly after that.
I've also seen many people try ATF to do the same for really bad sludge but I would do research first.
Old 01-27-2019, 01:04 PM
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Especially if you listen to the maintenance life gauge. They want you driving on average 7k on oil with a turbo, gasoline direct injection car. Old school all they way. Oil is cheaper than an engine or turbo
Old 01-27-2019, 08:53 PM
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I have a lnf and the last time I checked compression (2,000 miles ago) I was from 155-158 on all cylinders.
Old 01-27-2019, 09:33 PM
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Never did a compression test on mine. Not using oil and has no noticeable power loss. The cheaper route is the engine cleaner and pcv valve and hope it gets better.
Old 01-28-2019, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by C0balts5
Sounds like your rings are carboned up. They make g.m. top engine cleaner that your can run through the intake and put maybe a small cap full down into the spark plug holes and let it soak overnight and then crank it without the plugs it so you don't hydra lock it. The oil on the intake side of the turbo sounds like the pcv valve is clogged and might be stuck open and sucking up oil, I would pop a new pcv in as well. I work for acura and some of our cars have oil consumption issues that we usually resolve by adding half a quart of atf to engine oil when we change the oil, that surprisingly works and the car will slow down on oil drinking cause the rings will free up but I don't recommend doing that in a turbo car. Your right at the limit of cylinder variation with your compression readings, I think it's no more than 15 percent variation from the highest and lowest cyl reading. They consider that within spec. Your not going to have high compression readings on a turbo car so I would do the g.m. cleaner, dump some in the cylinders and let it sit overnight. Then go drive it to burn out the residual and change the oil and PVC. I have 116k on my 08 ss tc that's been boosting 23 psi for almost 100k and it's not consuming oil. Mainly probably because once a year I do a fuel induction service and I change the oil every 3k on the dot
thank you for this, lots of helpful stuff. Gonna do everything there! Its hard to get things done in the winter right now but as soon as I experiment with it I’ll post some updates
Old 01-28-2019, 06:12 PM
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No problem. I hope it works well for you. I've seen that cleaner breath some life and compression back into engines. The combination of the gasoline direct injection and the possible pcv valve issue slipping oil probably has those rings junked up so they are not springing back out like they should. From what I understand these engines are pretty stout and hold up pretty good. I see one roaming around where I live every now and then that had 170,000 miles on it last time I talked to the guy and that was 4 years ago and I still see it, his was bone stock though.
Old 01-29-2019, 08:11 AM
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this is unrelated to low compression but GM top engine cleaner is ****
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Old 01-30-2019, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by exninja
I'd do another compression test and double check the gauge you're using (best get a second opinion) before calling it a goner. 150ish is typical for lnf so you're not horrendous. Excessive oil in the intake is a sign of blowby but the PCV system in these cars sucks oil when they're mint so it can be hard to tell.

Definitely try another gauge. I had a fit when my new engine wasn't showing good compression even after 10k mines, thinking rings weren't breaking in. Here the brand new compression gauge I was using was about 40PSI off. 120/cyl is not a death sentence, although not exactly healthy compared to the rest of them. I drove a car on low compression on 2 cylinders for a year before I popped my new one in because I simply didnt have time. If you take it easy you might be fine for a good while. Mine ended up being fractured ring lands being held perfectly in place by the rings. 75psi lol. Also maybe unrelated here, but keep in mind camshafts can reduce compression a good bit too if anyone ever messed with the motor, although it would be in all the cylinders, not just one.
Old 01-30-2019, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ThePanduuh
this is unrelated to low compression but GM top engine cleaner is ****
That is a thing of beauty! Did you use brushes ( if so what kind ) or shells? I blasted mine last time, but I may try brushing next time. Be interesting to see if the 60lb 5th injector helped any.
Old 01-30-2019, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ThePanduuh
this is unrelated to low compression but GM top engine cleaner is ****
Your post is implying GM top engine cleaner did that to the intake, I call BS. Please provide a source for this.
Old 01-30-2019, 11:21 AM
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The g.m. cleaner will help the valves as well. If you think about it sometimes valves can cause low compression and or misfires because of the carbon build up on the valves due to the direct injection and the valves not sealing 100 percent, I have not seen them come out that good but it's a better start than going in straight for the kill with a new engine.
Old 02-17-2019, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by C0balts5
Sounds like your rings are carboned up. They make g.m. top engine cleaner that your can run through the intake and put maybe a small cap full down into the spark plug holes and let it soak overnight and then crank it without the plugs it so you don't hydra lock it. The oil on the intake side of the turbo sounds like the pcv valve is clogged and might be stuck open and sucking up oil, I would pop a new pcv in as well. I work for acura and some of our cars have oil consumption issues that we usually resolve by adding half a quart of atf to engine oil when we change the oil, that surprisingly works and the car will slow down on oil drinking cause the rings will free up but I don't recommend doing that in a turbo car. Your right at the limit of cylinder variation with your compression readings, I think it's no more than 15 percent variation from the highest and lowest cyl reading. They consider that within spec. Your not going to have high compression readings on a turbo car so I would do the g.m. cleaner, dump some in the cylinders and let it sit overnight. Then go drive it to burn out the residual and change the oil and PVC. I have 116k on my 08 ss tc that's been boosting 23 psi for almost 100k and it's not consuming oil. Mainly probably because once a year I do a fuel induction service and I change the oil every 3k on the dot
^^^This

It sounds like the rings are severely carboned up and stuck in the ringlands. Run a can of Seafoam through it and add ATF to the oil and see what happens. You have nothing to lose at this point, might as well try to see if you can restore compression.
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