Is it the aftermarket valve springs and or reviving past 7k rpm constantly? If one of these or both are the culprit, it will just be just a dream to have a high rev 8k rpm lnf reliably assuming we get around the pcm issue? I am sure these has cross the minds of those whose are working on a solution.
As long as these issue are present, we are limited to how big of a turbo we can put on our cars even on a fully built motor/head?
Lets have some discussions.

 

I'm in for this. Maybe a stronger chain if it has to come down to it. I don't think it was made to be revved that fast might be it.

 

I am just generalizing but other components ie. tensioners, guides etc... cause the chain to fail. In the end the chains will fail and it may just be with aftermarket springs, turbo, high rev tune, combo?

So if you get rid of the factory balance shaft on a fully built motor and go with 4.45 gears with aluminum flywheel which will make your car revved faster. I think the 6 spd will not revved as quick as the 5 spd 4.45?

 

The chain is the same chain used from the early 2000s ecotecs just the quality of the chain is why he'll they I'm replacing them under warrant with 15 20k on em in equinox's

 

True, but that does seem the main problem along with lash adjuters and rocker arms as well.

 

the question that I have is this: who will make stronger tensioner, guides, timing chains etc???

I also wonder how/what they will use to make them stronger.

 

I remember some other companies do offered better lash adjusters and rocker arms at a premium $. That's fine but we still have the next weak link/links - chains, tensioners, guides? And issue with HPFP especially running with larger fuel lobe ( not 100% sure ) We need to get a GB and stock few extra HPFP...

 

I was surprise to see how small they were. It almost like my road bicycle chain in size that it..
This may not be cheap if someone does make a better aftermarket set using better material/components?

 

Valve springs and bad tensioners cause the chains to stretch.

 

Also Performance Autowerks makes an upgraded tensioner.

 

What about the revised tensioner that came out about a year ago ?

 

I checked some part numbers and the Buick turbo has a different tensioner part number than the 2010 LNF
12608580 LNF

12649233 Buick 2011 2012 turbo

 

so is the part number for 08-09 lnf differ than 10?

 

high seat pressure valve springs - are the number one cause to stretch - they will make the chain stretch, but over revving the motor pass it's design limit makes the chain stretch even more.

second is tensioner's, once they fill up with dirty oil/carbon deposits inside- there done, even if you clean them thoroughly, they still aren't going to operate properly.. the 3k mile oil change is key to this.

third is chain guides, it doesn't happen alot - but once in a while, I've seen them get eaten to the point the material on the center of the chain guide is worn down.. again the 3k mile oil change is key to this.

to check - try to pull the main chain away [with screw driver] from the center of the main chain guide [largest one], the chain shouldn't be more than 1/4 inch away from the center of the main chain guide with tensioner in place and active, if it is, then it's time to get a new chain..

FYI: i'll say it again - once the head is removed for repair or upgrade or replacement, the both chains needs to be replaced, there are many techs - who'll state the chains doesn't needs to be replaced, but I've changed plenty of "ping pong" heads & pistons - already from techs not simply changing the chains/ tensioner or guides - by changing them prevents costly repairs down the road..

Tom @ Crate Engine Depot has the chains & guides and he'll be glad to help you out.

 

i did valve springs in my 09 lnf at 51k chains were barely streached some techs would have left them in but i put new chains in balance shaft chain and tensioner and main chain and tensioner, when you order a new tensioner from gm the part number may b different on the lnf but the number superceeds to the new tensioner from the regals and malibus

 

good to know..

 

Good info.. Thanks. A little off topic but if we are going to drain our oil at 3K miles, we don't need to put in the premium synthetic for most of us? That would just be a waste of $..

 

In the same sense that you don't "need" to fill up with premium. Bad things happen when you toss normal oil into an engine designed to run synthetic.

 

Don't freaking use conventional oil. Good lord

 

I would still use full synthetic for the turbos sake. That's usually what it's better for.

 

No, I meant ie. Quaker State/other brand synthetics and not the expensive Mobile 1 etc... At lease around here.
Even thought this may not be good for preventing coking, but at 3K, the oil still be in good condition?

 

Based on driving style: [one of the forum members on Bob the oil guy- list something close to this - this is based off memory]

Using synthetic oil..

Aggressive "beater"- min 2.5-3k miles - not changing oil before 3k will shorten engine life

Daily driver "city/hwy"- min 3k - changing oil up to 3k will prolong and add more life to the engine past 100k miles

Weekend "my other car"- min 3-3.5k - changing oil before 3k will extend engine life past 150k miles

Weekend track beast- check/ add or change oil before every track event [b/c of heat cycling] - engine may need to be pulled every 6 months or season and replace "wear" parts [bearings/ clean gunk/ etc..].

Weekly track beast- engine needs to be pulled every month/week and replace "wear" parts [bearings/ clean gunk/ etc..].

to me changing the synthetic oil up to 4-5k or even at 10k miles [like Toyota states]- to me is a little crazy, yes manufactures say its ok,
but are they going to purchase me a new engine when it fails, because the oil breaks down slower after - lets say after 100k miles on the speedo?